Next Crosscurrent S upgrade

[Ant]

Just wondering what people think could be improved with the next upgrade! I would like to see some sort of odometer which held the total distance the bike has ever done, and can't be reset. The trip meter is great, but I loose the total distance. I still want to see what the battery has done from charge to charge, so need to reset the trip meter to do this. Also, would like a way to disable the electric system via a key or code, so that no one can play around with the bike when left (locked obviously). Any other ideas?

 

[Chris Hammond]

A bike disable feature would be great.

Probably the biggest easy improvement I'd like to see is to integrate the taillight with the motor inhibitors to make a functioning brake light. Seems like it would be a pretty easy thing to do. I may try to do it myself once I get mine. I am honestly fine with the light not using the main battery, I prefer it actually, but it'd be nice to have it light up brighter when braking.
While we are on safety, adding some side lens to both the front and rear light so that the bike is more visible from the side would be great. I am actually ordering the aluminum frame, just for the increased side visibility in low light.

 

[Bruce Arnold]

Chris, the tail light does show up to the side, to about 90 degrees. That being said, some extra lighting never hurts. I wear a blinker on the back of my helmet that is also visible to the sides. Helmet light and front light at all times, tail light in darker conditions (dark clouds, dusk, night.) The front light, BTW, is awesome, with very little current drain.

 

[Andy_in_CA]

I would like the Juiced Logo to be reflective for night time. I have a bunch of LEDs on my bike but its pretty stealth in all black... so that would help night time safety.

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

I would like to see ( at $1999 price point)

1. 650B wheels and with 2.4" Schwalbe Supermoto Tires ----(makes it very versatile and comfortable while providing puncture resistance)
2. Deore or SLX derailleur --------- (better shifting and chain retention)
3. Rear light run by the battery ------ (safety is important at high speeds)
4. 100mm air forks uprfront ------ ( you can take your bike on gravel, no problem)
5. Velofix delivery for remote areas ---( better reach into the market)
6. Tektro Dorado HDe710 brakes ---------- (powerful braking when you're traveling at 28mph
7. Option to add BodyFloat at a reduced cost ------- (happy hips,legs = better coitus)

 

[Rob02150]

I would like to see ( at $1999 price point)

1. 650B wheels and with 2.4" Schwalbe Supermoto Tires ----(makes it very versatile and comfortable while providing puncture resistance)
2. Deore or SLX derailleur --------- (better shifting and chain retention)
3. Rear light run by the battery ------ (safety is important at high speeds)
4. 100mm air forks uprfront ------ ( you can take your bike on gravel, no problem)
5. Velofix delivery for remote areas ---( better reach into the market)
6. Tektro Dorado HDe710 brakes ---------- (powerful braking when you're traveling at 28mph
7. Option to add BodyFloat at a reduced cost ------- (happy hips,legs = better coitus)

Now you got me contemplating if I should take my Dorado brakes off my original CC and putting them on my CCS.

 

[FMG III]

I would like to see ( at $1999 price point)

1. 650B wheels and with 2.4" Schwalbe Supermoto Tires ----(makes it very versatile and comfortable while providing puncture resistance)
2. Deore or SLX derailleur --------- (better shifting and chain retention)
3. Rear light run by the battery ------ (safety is important at high speeds)
4. 100mm air forks uprfront ------ ( you can take your bike on gravel, no problem)
5. Velofix delivery for remote areas ---( better reach into the market)
6. Tektro Dorado HDe710 brakes ---------- (powerful braking when you're traveling at 28mph
7. Option to add BodyFloat at a reduced cost ------- (happy hips,legs = better coitus)

I have to agree with the 650B wheels. I would even like to see a 27.5 (650B) plus option. I think this (ebike) market is underserved at the moment in this wheel/tire size offering - and I love my 27.5+ Scott Spark for all around riding...

 

[Pete N]

Just wondering what people think could be improved with the next upgrade! I would like to see some sort of odometer which held the total distance the bike has ever done, and can't be reset. The trip meter is great, but I loose the total distance. I still want to see what the battery has done from charge to charge, so need to reset the trip meter to do this. Also, would like a way to disable the electric system via a key or code, so that no one can play around with the bike when left (locked obviously). Any other ideas?

Not sure what I have set to do this but my display is a working odometer - not a trip meter - have only had the bike out couple of times but I remove the battery each time (too cold in the garage to leave battery out) and when I turn back on the total mileage is displayed - it does not reset so I am guessing there is a setting to stop it from clearing

 

[Rob02150]

Not sure what I have set to do this but my display is a working odometer - not a trip meter - have only had the bike out couple of times but I remove the battery each time (too cold in the garage to leave battery out) and when I turn back on the total mileage is displayed - it does not reset so I am guessing there is a setting to stop it from clearing

It's only reset manually by pressing and holding the power button and - button at the same time for a few seconds. People reset it to see the range they get per charge and when you do that, you clear everything. Unplugging the battery doesn't reset the display.

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

Now you got me contemplating if I should take my Dorado brakes off my original CC and putting them on my CCS.

I would totally do that!
Bright lights and powerful brakes are so important for high speed commuting. I have been in several close calls and I am very grateful to Magura engineers! (MT5e brakes).

 

[Rob02150]

I would totally do that!
Bright lights and powerful brakes are so important for high speed commuting. I have been in several close calls and I am very grateful to Magura engineers! (MT5e brakes).

I've been looking at them side by side and the brake difference is catching my eye since the moment I got it. Is it easy as swapping? I've never installed brakes cables before, especially disc brakes. But it looks to be easy to remove. One thing I noticed with my original CC is that the front brake cutoff doesn't seem to be responsive, so I'm a little hesitant to swap it and not have it be as responsive as the cut off is in the CCS.

 

[Chris Hammond]

I would like to see ( at $1999 price point)

1. 650B wheels and with 2.4" Schwalbe Supermoto Tires ----(makes it very versatile and comfortable while providing puncture resistance)
2. Deore or SLX derailleur --------- (better shifting and chain retention)
3. Rear light run by the battery ------ (safety is important at high speeds)
4. 100mm air forks uprfront ------ ( you can take your bike on gravel, no problem)
5. Velofix delivery for remote areas ---( better reach into the market)
6. Tektro Dorado HDe710 brakes ---------- (powerful braking when you're traveling at 28mph
7. Option to add BodyFloat at a reduced cost ------- (happy hips,legs = better coitus)

I am not sure I see the advantage of a 650B option. The 700 C tires larger diameter provides better, more efficient rolling and the stock 45c wide tires seem plenty wide for commuting purposes. If you really need a wider more comfortable tire, the RipCurrent S is an option. As far as puncture resistance goes, tire liners are a cheap and easy add on, but you can always swap out to the tire of your choice.
You mention a derailer upgrade, this was actually an option when the CCS first launched along with a 10 spd cassette. Must not have been very popular because I see no mention of it now.
The chain retention problem, however, should be addressed. I would like to see an inner guide on the front chainring, or a chain guide stock. I know Reid has taken a few links out of his chain which eliminate chain drops. I am guessing the bike ships with a full length chain capable of accomodating the 56T front chainring option. Appropriate chain length definitely improves shifting performance as well.
As for the fork option, it seems to me a longer travel fork is counterproductive in a commuter bike. If you are really planning on lots of gravel or bumpy riding, again the RipCurrent is a better option.
The upgraded brakes would be nice as an option, as well as the seatpost.

 

[Reid]

.... I know Reid has taken a few links out of his chain which eliminate chain drops.

It turns out not to be the perfect cure.

I have had a couple of chain drops again this week.

So, what the heck, today I removed the chain wheel shield ring or whatever it's called. It does not prevent chain drops there because it is spaced too far from the chain wheel. It is effective only to keep loose clothing from getting snagged. Bashing it inward would help make it act as a chain guard, however....

However, I like the looks of the bike without that guard.

And because there is no room for such a guard on the inner side of the chain wheel where most chain drops seem to occur, I am wondering what to do for a chain guide atop the chain wheel. What will fit?

Back to the thread topic: I would like to see a larger rotor on the front wheel. Tektro has a 203mm rotor and an adaptor available. And while Ravi is right, the Tektro Dorado HDe710 brakes would be a great improvement to the future bikes, I think I can easily upgrade for not too much money and get the larger rotor and adapter to make the existing caliper fit. Bigger the rotor the greater the mechanical advantage of the clamp that is the brake pad pair in the caliper. I'll stop considerably faster with a larger rotor.

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[Ravi Kempaiah]

I am not sure I see the advantage of a 650B option. The 700 C tires larger diameter provides better, more efficient rolling and the stock 45c wide tires seem plenty wide for commuting purposes. If you really need a wider more comfortable tire, the RipCurrent S is an option. As far as puncture resistance goes, tire liners are a cheap and easy add on, but you can always swap out to the tire of your choice.
You mention a derailer upgrade, this was actually an option when the CCS first launched along with a 10 spd cassette. Must not have been very popular because I see no mention of it now.
The chain retention problem, however, should be addressed. I would like to see an inner guide on the front chainring, or a chain guide stock. I know Reid has taken a few links out of his chain which eliminate chain drops. I am guessing the bike ships with a full length chain capable of accomodating the 56T front chainring option. Appropriate chain length definitely improves shifting performance as well.
As for the fork option, it seems to me a longer travel fork is counterproductive in a commuter bike. If you are really planning on lots of gravel or bumpy riding, again the RipCurrent is a better option.
The upgraded brakes would be nice as an option, as well as the seatpost.

I agree, Chris!
This has been a matter of debate between me and Tora for the last 2 years. I see the practicality of 700C wheels. Availability, cost, etc are in 700C favor. Yes, one could always put a 2" tire and turn into cyclocross kind of bike.

I think improvement in the drivetrain is a must. They used to offer XT derailleur and Schwalbe Marathon plus but it's a lot of work to open up a box, change those items and repack it again.

The biggest + that @Tora Harris could bring to the next version of CCS is quality control and reliability of electric components. With that CCS will be an unbeatable value in the commuter market!

And yes, there is room for improvement in the marketing area as well.

 

[Andy_in_CA]

i'd like to see a firmware update that would add an odometer (as stated above) and a blinking front headlight option vs always on.

 

[Captain Slow]

Of all the suggestions the only one I would really like is the ability to lock out the electric motor for theft deterrence. Other than that, perhaps a strip of LEDs on the downtube like the SmartMotion Pacer.

I have to say that I think the stock derailleur is fine for shifting. I normally ride a Cervelo RS with a Rival drivetrain and when I ride the CCS I honestly don't feel like the shifting performance needs improving.

I would like a more aero position to reduce drag when riding at higher speeds.

 

[Rob02150]

Of all the suggestions the only one I would really like is the ability to lock out the electric motor for theft deterrence. Other than that, perhaps a strip of LEDs on the downtube like the SmartMotion Pacer.

I have to say that I think the stock derailleur is fine for shifting. I normally ride a Cervelo RS with a Rival drivetrain and when I ride the CCS I honestly don't feel like the shifting performance needs improving.

I would like a more aero position to reduce drag when riding at higher speeds.

I've been contemplating about switching it over to a deore system. Or even an SLX. But now I'm wondering if it's pointless if there's no real big difference.

 

[Captain Slow]

I find with a motor, I simply don't change gears nearly as often. That's why I don't think I want a better derailleur, but others may feel differently.

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

A better derailleur like the XT and a proper chain length should minimize the chain drops. I have never had a chain drop on any of the bikes I owned. So, if multiple people are experiencing chain drops, it's something to address.

 

[Chris Hammond]

A better derailleur like the XT and a proper chain length should minimize the chain drops. I have never had a chain drop on any of the bikes I owned. So, if multiple people are experiencing chain drops, it's something to address.

I had kinda assumed the chain drops are largely a result of having a powered rear wheel reducing chain tension from the crank during light pedaling which likely creates some slack in the top of the chain and allowing it to come free of the chain-ring. This is only a theory on my part. I agree that I haven't had issues with chain drops on either road or mtb, but there is also a front derailer on those bikes keeping the chain over the chainring.
I don't know if a high-end rear derailer will cure this or not. If anyone has upgraded and eliminated drops, please chime in. It really seems the best fix would be a chain guide to keep the top of the chain centered over the chainring regardless of chain tension or rear cassette chain position.