I’m not understanding this 100%. The bike uses a torque sensor to determine when to provide assistance, but I think it’s fairly straightforward. PAS levels 1-5 give gradually more assistance, irrespective of your gearing. That’s how I remember it at least. It is a pretty balanced and elegant power delivery system.I *thought* that no matter what gear I was in, the faster I pedal the more the motor will assist me. But I'm finding that in actuality it seems that the higher the GEAR I'm in(no matter the assist level), the more the motor kicks in to help. Does this jibe with your experiences too?
Do not think a lot of torque sensing for a hub-drive. Unlike a mid-drive, where the assistance is variable and actually depending on the product of the cadence and the torque exerted by the feet (the product is called the pedaling power), hub-drives just deliver a constant assistance per the assist level. Additionally, mid-drives offer variable motor speed while hub-drives only give constant rpm per assistance level. That's why pedalling at the optimum speed is so important for hub-drives. (Think of the Assist Level as of the cruising speed selector there).I’m not understanding this 100%. The bike uses a torque sensor to determine when to provide assistance
Last question's easy: No matter what kind of assist you have, if you're neither pedaling nor on the throttle,Guys - I need some of your help in understanding the way my Haul's motor is set up to help me:
I *thought* that no matter what gear I was in, the faster I pedal the more the motor will assist me. But I'm finding that in actuality it seems that the higher the GEAR I'm in(no matter the assist level), the more the motor kicks in to help. Does this jibe with your experiences too?
Does anyone have a link to an article(s) explaining cadence motors and how I should be utilizing the assist for maximum BATTERY savings(while still getting as much "help" as possible/needed)?
One more question:
If I'm in an assist mode (say 1st) and I'm just coasting downhill for a mile or so - am I actively using battery power when I don't need to? Should I be changing the assist level to 0 ( a minor pain) when going downhill or is the fact that I'm NOT pedaling just the same as if I had turned down the assist to 0?
Thanks,
Lip
Generalizations like this just aren't helpful. That might be true of some poorly implemented torque-sensing hub-drives, but certainly not of mine.Unlike a mid-drive, where the assistance is variable and actually depending on the product of the cadence and the torque exerted by the feet (the product is called the pedaling power), hub-drives just deliver a constant assistance per the assist level.
It does not work on hub-drives. The torque sensing on a hub-drive e-bike only activates the motor. Same, as the cadence sensor that only activates the motor as soon as the crank is spinning. The torque sensor on a hub-drive motor will activate the motor earlier than the cadence sensor could engage.A. If you have pure torque-sensing assist, power delivery is based solely on the force you apply to the pedals: More force from you = more assist from the motor. Higher assist level = more assist for a given pedal force.
Globe is not a Specialized Turbo, and the rules for Specialized Turbo do not apply here.C. Higher-end Specialized ebikes measure true cadence, pedal force, and other parameters and dole out assist accordingly using sophisticated proprietary algorithms. True cadence would affect assist on these bikes.
Some hard data please. I can prove everything with hard data for my Specialized Turbo e-bikes.Complete BS. Come ride my torque-sensing hub-drive.
Here's some hard data for you: I've ridden 2 different torque-sensing hub-drives — one for 2400 mi and the other for 50 mi, both in varied terrain. Off the throttle, where I do 99% of my riding, both dole out assist in proportion to pedal force — exactly as I described in the pure torque-sensing case. In no way is the power delivery all or nothing.It does not work on hub-drives. The torque sensing on a hub-drive e-bike only activates the motor. Same, as the cadence sensor that only activates the motor as soon as the crank is spinning. The torque sensor on a hub-drive motor will activate the motor earlier than the cadence sensor could engage.
Globe is not a Specialized Turbo, and the rules for Specialized Turbo do not apply here.
The Specialized Turbo cargo e-bike is called Porto, is only available in Europe, and has a mid-drive motor.
Some hard data please. I can prove everything with hard data for my Specialized Turbo e-bikes.
If you can ride in the fully open throttle in Assist Level 1 and show me the figures for motor power for pedalling with different torque then I could believe you.
I do not deny your observations. I admit torque sensing on a hub-drive might work by adjusting the amount of the motor power by the pedalling torque. That way, the cranks might work as yet another throttle, that is, the torque on the cranks could deliver more or less power to the motor up to the maximum allowed by a given assistance level. That is, if Level 1 allows 100 W max then hard mashing on the cranks could deliver 100 W of assistance at that level while light pedalling would give 50 W.Here's some hard data for you: I've ridden 2 different torque-sensing hub-drives — one for 2400 mi and the other for 50 mi, both in varied terrain. Off the throttle, where I do 99% of my riding, both dole out assist in proportion to pedal force — exactly as I described in the pure torque-sensing case. In no way is the power delivery all or nothing.
This isn't some hallucination or theory on my part. It's an in-the-saddle observation any experienced ebike rider would be qualified to make. And it falsifies your wild generalizations about torque-sensing hub-drives.