My New Globe Haul ST (2 weeks Old now)

Is that a reference to how they are installed on the bottom of the bike? Never heard of an issue with batteries falling out. Top load would be a little easier if you remove the battery to charge (very rare use case).

Bottom install probably leads to a little less radiation heat from the sun.
 
Is that a reference to how they are installed on the bottom of the bike? Never heard of an issue with batteries falling out. Top load would be a little easier if you remove the battery to charge (very rare use case).
Read post 1 about the error code when OP hits a bump, and the weeks delay to receive a new battery mount.
My Dorman .250" flag terminals (insulated) never ever drop power to the controller.
Also check your specialized dealer about the cost of a second battery, versus the cost of an extra dolphin battery for yuba blix or momentum.
 
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I didn't know that the battery on the Haul falls out! Is this a "thing"?
I don't know anything about the Haul, but my brother in law had the battery of his Levo fall out on the trail once. Duct tape and zip-ties got us back to the trailhead.
 
I don't know anything about the Haul, but my brother in law had the battery of his Levo fall out on the trail once. Duct tape and zip-ties got us back to the trailhead.
I wonder how could it ever happen taken in the account the Levo battery is bolted to the frame :) Didn't your brother forget to tighten the bolt?

 
I’m starting to wonder if the Haul is going to be comfortable enough for me on 6 hour rides with no suspension.

Anyone have any suspension seat recommends? I heard Cane Creek is a good source..
 
I’m starting to wonder if the Haul is going to be comfortable enough for me on 6 hour rides with no suspension.

Anyone have any suspension seat recommends? I heard Cane Creek is a good source..
Redshift. I think you need a real spring, not just an elastomer. I used this on the Haul and it was great.
 
Well I DID it!
Bought a black Haul (with swapped in gumwall tires) today. Added a Cane Creek seat post for 90mm of cushiony travel for my ample ass.

Gonna hold off on extra accessories until I figure out what I really need. That said, I *am* gonna need 2 bottle cages for the head post. One for my Flip 4 Bluetooth speaker, the other for beer/hard kombucha/tequila. Any really good recommendations?

Thanks to you all for your continuing guidance
👍
 
Gonna hold off on extra accessories until I figure out what I really need. That said, I *am* gonna need 2 bottle cages for the head post. One for my Flip 4 Bluetooth speaker, the other for beer/hard kombucha/tequila. Any really good recommendations?


Congrats!


Sturdy, secure, takes any shape container, including a beer/kombucha can, a 28 oz. Gatorade, and a rigid stainless thermos. Regular cages can't take any of these. Mine's still going strong 1.5 years later.
 
Congrats!


Sturdy, secure, takes any shape container, including a beer/kombucha can, a 28 oz. Gatorade, and a rigid stainless thermos. Regular cages can't take any of these. Mine's still going strong 1.5 years later.
Thank you!
So is taking the bottle out/in while riding a 2-step process where you have to tighten the circular knob each time?
 
Thank you!
So is taking the bottle out/in while riding a 2-step process where you have to tighten the circular knob each time?
I cinch down more on really bumpy surfaces. Dial in a looser fit to drink on the fly. You control the grip.

Note that standard cages require a flexible bottle wall with the usual notched profile. Rigid containers with no notch (like my stainless thermoses) are no-go.
 
I cinch down more on bumpy surfaces. Dial in a looser fit to drink on the fly. You control the grip.

Note that standard cages require a flexible bottle wall with the usual notched profile. Rigid containers with no notch (like my stainless thermoses) are no-go.
Good point on the flexibility
 
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Rigid, straight-walled 16 oz. stainless thermos with sippy cap at bottom right. Rock solid.

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Off-the-shelf 20 oz. Gatorade. The 28 oz. also works just fine.

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Tempting, but the bottom tab that keeps containers from falling through may not be big or thick enough for something this heavy with a rectangular cross-section.
 
Haha! You are COMMITTED!!
Does that cage have the ability to screw onto the frame if there are openings or is it wrap around only?

Thanks for the pix.
#OneOfUs
 
Haha! You are COMMITTED!!
Does that cage have the ability to screw onto the frame if there are openings or is it wrap around only?

Thanks for the pix.
#OneOfUs
Bolts onto standard bosses like a regular bottle cage. Mounting it on my front basket was tricky only because the bosses there are less than the standard distance apart. Dremel to the rescue.
 
Picked up my Haul today (swapped - in the gumwalls) then took 'er out for a 3+ hour spin around the North Bay area
tempImagelVswV7.jpg
of San Francisco on a glorious day. (that's SF in the background distance).

Wow! I am SO pleased with this bike. It's just SO ME.Thank you guys for your patience in answering my newbie questions and for giving me good advice on the bike and its components.
(P.S. look at the shadow and you can see that I am riding the Cane Creek Thudbuster elastomer suspension seat - works like a dream. This is the default "medium" elastomer. I bought a spongier elastomer insert as well. I don't think I need it, though..)
 
Guys - I need some of your help in understanding the way my Haul's motor is set up to help me:

I *thought* that no matter what gear I was in, the faster I pedal the more the motor will assist me. But I'm finding that in actuality it seems that the higher the GEAR I'm in(no matter the assist level), the more the motor kicks in to help. Does this jibe with your experiences too?

Does anyone have a link to an article(s) explaining cadence motors and how I should be utilizing the assist for maximum BATTERY savings(while still getting as much "help" as possible/needed)?

One more question:
If I'm in an assist mode (say 1st) and I'm just coasting downhill for a mile or so - am I actively using battery power when I don't need to? Should I be changing the assist level to 0 ( a minor pain) when going downhill or is the fact that I'm NOT pedaling just the same as if I had turned down the assist to 0?

Thanks,
Lip
 
I *thought* that no matter what gear I was in, the faster I pedal the more the motor will assist me. But I'm finding that in actuality it seems that the higher the GEAR I'm in(no matter the assist level), the more the motor kicks in to help. Does this jibe with your experiences too?
Geared hub-motors and PAS do not work the way you think: it is not a mid-drive. Rotating the cranks just gives the motor the signal "you are good to go". Given the selected assist level, the motor contributes with a constant assistance power, and the motor "feels itself good" as some specific rpm. As you are pedalling, you get into a kind of equilibrium with the motor. That requires selecting the derailleur gear such that you are pedalling at the cadence that is generating the optimum speed for the motor. Depending where you are (the flat, a descent or a climb) the selected gear could be very different. You would, however, notice that you always pedal at the same cadence to make the motor happy. That is why you should manipulate the gears: to always pedal at the optimum cadence. It could be 70-80 rpm.

I should be utilizing the assist for maximum BATTERY savings
Use the lowest Assist Level that makes you feel comfortable. (Maximum battery savings occur with the motor OFF, of course).

If I'm in an assist mode (say 1st) and I'm just coasting downhill for a mile or so - am I actively using battery power when I don't need to?
As long as you do not pedal, the motor is off and does not use the battery.
 
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