New Rad Rover 6

The biggest problem with proprietary key components is that you are stuck with Rad and these parts being out of stock for weeks or months. So even if you have bike with warranty left you might be waiting for your part forever. Then as few years pass those parts may not be available at all.
Yes, this is the problem with several companies, they can't keep stock and you don't have a choice to go else where when you need to. If their part is garbage you may be stuck with it.
 
Has anyone figured out how to up the speed of the Rad Rover 6? I can't believe I can't adjust the speed. My wife has the Rad Rover 5 and goes faster than I. Completely Unacceptable.
 
Has anyone figured out how to up the speed of the Rad Rover 6? I can't believe I can't adjust the speed. My wife has the Rad Rover 5 and goes faster than I. Completely Unacceptable.
It seems that something happened somewhere or their attorneys told them to eliminate the speed bump up. I think it started in 2020 on all Rad bikes.
 
It seems that something happened somewhere or their attorneys told them to eliminate the speed bump up. I think it started in 2020 on all Rad bikes.
Thanks. We bought the green addition of the Rad Rover 5 and are able to bump up the speed. There has to be a way on the Rad Rover 6 or they wouldn't have been able to set the wheel size and set for 20mph.
 
Timpo, This is really good information. I will dig in further. Thank you.
At this price though, I could probably just sell my rad 6 and buy a different ebike. This is really unfortunate as I really do like my Rad.
 
At some point Bolton or someone else will figure out an upgrade for the 6 . Since the controller is unknown/ hidden now and the display is different it’s difficult to see what would fit without looking like “kluge”.

The speed restrictions started showing up last year , some 5 s have it too.

My buddy and I upgraded our Rads so I sold two of those old Rad controllers (no limit) and displays on EBay for way too much $$$. There is a demand.
 
Updating the new Rover shouldn't be THAT difficult. The controller looks to be where it's been for a long time. The question lies in what connectors are being used for everything. The pictures I've seen LOOK like a KT controller will work (Bolton "kits" use KT controllers), but they are not likely going too have a brake light built in, and until I see better pics, there's no assurance regarding the motor or battery connectors being correct either.

Even so, I wouldn't sell the bike over something like this. You'll more than likely be jumping out of the frying pan into the fire. There's some seriously junk controllers being used by the OEMS out there.....
 
Updating the new Rover shouldn't be THAT difficult. The controller looks to be where it's been for a long time. The question lies in what connectors are being used for everything. The pictures I've seen LOOK like a KT controller will work (Bolton "kits" use KT controllers), but they are not likely going too have a brake light built in, and until I see better pics, there's no assurance regarding the motor or battery connectors being correct either.

Even so, I wouldn't sell the bike over something like this. You'll more than likely be jumping out of the frying pan into the fire. There's some seriously junk controllers being used by the OEMS out there.....
Rad Rover 6.JPG

I don't think that rather small box is the controller, cables are too small . More line a junction or test box maybe .

The second pic is a single frame of Court's review.

I suspect the controller in the down-tube. Remove the cover plate on the underside.

A 35A controller may be too large for the opening. Heat also an issue.

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There are ebikes with controllers in the motor so might even be in the battery. One geared motor has the battery and controller inside the motor.
 
If Rad has made anything hard to work on or extra expensive parts to replace it will really cost them on warranty repairs. Also more unhappy customers. They need to gravitate towards easier to replace controllers with locking mechanisms.
 
RAD is trying to get more money for their service now; "making it easy" is no longer their goal. Unfortunately to support their mobile service and on-going business they are now more interested in proprietary or at least non-standard components.
 
View attachment 104107
I don't think that rather small box is the controller, cables are too small . More line a junction or test box maybe .

The second pic is a single frame of Court's review.

I suspect the controller in the down-tube. Remove the cover plate on the underside.

A 35A controller may be too large for the opening. Heat also an issue.

View attachment 104111
Re: small box, you could be right, but the KT "waterproof" series are pretty small. MUCH smaller than the earlier series. In any case, there's plenty of room to install one in place of whatever that is on the seat post tube. I've messed with the KT-17a through the KT-25a controllers now, and they'll all fit in that area no sweat. Too date, all of them I've done have had to be packed into the down tubes, which really limits you regarding any more controller than what you need.....
 
Just wanted to share my RR8 experience. I had a 1st gen RR I recently sold in order to get the "more powerful" RR6. I did buy a used bike with 160 miles on it, but the thing is in great condition. There's a small hill right off my driveway. With my RR gen1 I could twist the throttle out of the driveway and it would slowly accelerate up that hill with no pedaling. I just did the same thing with the RR6 and I couldn't get it to accelerate (keep getting faster) unless I help pedal. In other words, my old RR had much more torque and it was stock.

I DO like the way I sit on the RR6 much better than the gen 1.

If you want to adjust the speed on the RR6 go into program mode (hold left/right bottom buttons) then once it goes into program mode, hold the 2 left buttons along with the bottom right for a few seconds. That lets you adjust the top speed.
 
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