Need to choose hub compatible with Civante speed sensor

[Oski1997]

I used my lathe. The groove width and location are exactly the same as the Yamaha, but I didn’t groove is as deep because the tabs that fit into the groove do not require it to be that deep. I used an “emergency collet” to hold the flange without damaging it. It is a quick and easy job, but it does require a lathe, groove tool and collet. Pretty much any machine shop could dI it easily, (or any friend with a decent lathe).

This is my lathe with the bored “emergence collet”.

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Wow, now that’s one nice piece of equipment you got there!!

 

[Oski1997]

Hey guys here is the mod that is required for a Yamaha axle speed sensor magnet with a center lock rotor to work with a six bolt rotor hub set up.
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I have tested this mod for a few months now without a single problem. Without getting wordy hopefully the pictures will speak for themselves.
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The magnet housing is composed of a two piece system that captures the magnet within. One side of the housing is held solidly by a notch in the frame and the other side slides into the centre lock hub nut via the plastic male splines. So the hub side spins while the frame side just sits there.
In a nut shell you are simply modifying the rotor hub nut to slip into your new six bolt hub rotor .
View attachment 113069The above stock nut is modified using a die grinder to allow the nut to sit flush against the rotor surface.
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Depending on your disc/rotor you may have to grind some of the threads off so the overall diameter of the nut is small enough to slip inside the disc.
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Once you have the diameter right ( not critical size as long as it slips in) now check to see if the length of the nut bottoms out or not. You can either observe this by touch or use a set of calipers to measure the thickness of your disc then the length of the bolt. I upgraded to a six bolt 203 Magura disc with DT Swiss 350 Hybrid 6-bolt disc hubs, 32h, black. Boost spacing, HG freehub. With this set up I had to slightly grind the threads and the overall length very slightly.

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As you can see the nut is prevented from seating properly because of the six bolt heads. Shown here with the speed magnet c/w housing attached

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Here is the modified nut in place with the magnet housing seated properly and working excellent !! No more junky hubs n wheels !
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I have to say, this community is incredibly helpful. Thank you Jaspy, DJangoDog and Tantalus for all of the pics and time you've spent helping us get new rims for our bikes. I'm in the middle of this process and couldn't even begin this process without your help!!

 

[Japan8]

I used my lathe. The groove width and location are exactly the same as the Yamaha, but I didn’t groove is as deep because the tabs that fit into the groove do not require it to be that deep. I used an “emergency collet” to hold the flange without damaging it. It is a quick and easy job, but it does require a lathe, groove tool and collet. Pretty much any machine shop could dI it easily, (or any friend with a decent lathe).

This is my lathe with the bored “emergence collet”.

View attachment 130545

Thanks for all the information!

I’m checking out local machine shops and so far looking at $120, the 1 hour minimum they charge for all small jobs. With their current work load this could take between 1 and 2 weeks to fit into the schedule and complete.

If more than one can be done for the $120/hour charge, would anyone else be interested? Options could be purchasing additional end caps to be modified and selling them for cost + machining. It just seems a waste to have him just do 1 for $120. Thoughts?

 

[Rickster2]

I posted this on my supply line topic as well.

I ended up buying a set of DT Swiss CR 1600 Spline Wheels. The end cap on the brake side had to be modified because there is a groove that is used to locate the outer portion of the speed sensor. The groove is 6.00 mm wide and ends 10.00 mm from the end face. The groove diameter is 19.9 mm.

The CR 1600 has a 130 Kg rating and is also a gravel wheel. A Shimano hub won’t work and there are many wheels that don’t have an end cap that is not already grooved or has wrench flats that would interfere with the groove. The groove didn’t need to be as deep and the one on the Yamaha end cap, (Yamaha’s end cap groove diameter is 17.47 mm).

Everything works as it should. They are nice looking wheels and I have always had good luck with DT Swiss.

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Hey guys I have also done this mod in the past and find that a notch milled out of the axle spacer isn't necessary as another poster mentioned. The sensor slides on without issues. The groove in the OEM spacer is not needed at all , at least on DT Swiss hubs. If you can slide the magnet assembly on the spacer you're good to go !

 

[napilopez]

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but having just bought a Crosscore RC, which also has the hub speed sensor. Not an expert at repairing my own bike mechanics but willing to learn. If I wanted to upgrade or change the wheels down the road, what exactly do I need to look for to make sure I can fit the speed sensor on the new wheels? Especially given @Rickster2's comment above about not needing to mill out a notch.

Thank you!

 

[Greydog]

Why do you want to change wheels? They work fine and are a little heavy but it is an ebike. There are other things that you can do to lighten the bike if thats what you are after. I put a carbon fork on mine along with carbon handlebars and carbon seat post. I put a lighter and better 11-26 cassette and chain. I put on a light seat with titanium rails. I also put some nice road tires on (Pirelli Velo Cinturato 32c TLR's, that I use with a tube) that have good puncture resistance. That saved at least 100 grams per tire and made the bike more nimble and accelerate faster. I bought all my carbon parts from Ali Express for dirt cheap. I dropped about 4-5 pounds from the bike.

 

[napilopez]

Why do you want to change wheels? They work fine and are a little heavy but it is an ebike. There are other things that you can do to lighten the bike if thats what you are after. I put a carbon fork on mine along with carbon handlebars and carbon seat post. I put a lighter and better 11-26 cassette and chain. I put on a light seat with titanium rails. I also put some nice road tires on (Pirelli Velo Cinturato 32c TLR's, that I use with a tube) that have good puncture resistance. That saved at least 100 grams per tire and made the bike more nimble and accelerate faster. I bought all my carbon parts from Ali Express for dirt cheap. I dropped about 4-5 pounds from the bike.

Honestly, it's mostly about longevity. If one of the wheels gets damages at some point, I'd like to be ready to pop in an extra set of wheels without too much of a hassle or needing to bring it to a dealer.

Still, I wouldn't mind making it lighter down the road. I'm a heavy person so I'm wary about using too much carbon fiber, but imo the front suspension is overkill so I'll probably move to a lighter rigid fork at some point.