My UC Pro has arrived

[Deacon Blues]

I finally got a chance to take the bike out for a long ride to test out if the chain skips in the smaller cogs, now that I have the Fat spider and a smaller cassette installed.
The good news is the chain no longer skips in the 13t and 15t cog.
The bad news is the chain still skips in the 11t cog.

I was able to cruise along at 24/25mph, in level 3 power, and in the 11t cog, for a little while, just to check out my cadence that that speed.

Future plans are:
1. Change the 42t front chain ring to a 48t. This may allow me to maintain my higher cruising speeds and keep the chain on the 13t or 15t, where it doesn't skip.
2. Possibly go with the Garbaruk derailleur cage for better chain wrap.

This bike is a joy to ride.

Side note: There is noticeable drag with the 3.0 wide tires. Going down a long (not that steep) hill the bike actually lost speed.

 

[opimax]

What tire pressure are you running? And any drag when tires spun manually? Brake drag?

 

[Deacon Blues]

I'm running 35psi. The front wheel spins freely, but there is considerable drag in the rear. With the back wheel elevated and spun it will only do a revolution or two before stopping.
There's definitely brake pad drag.
I'll have to take a closer look to see if one pad closer to the rotor than the other pad, or if they're both rubbing at the same time.

 

[opimax]

I run 40 lbs, prob negligible difference but the rear spins better than yours apparently, I think it is worth looking at. I would check without the pads to make sure they are the only drag on the wheel…no squeezing the brakes without pads!

 

[Merle Nelson]

I run 40mg s, prob negligible difference but the rear spins better than yours apparently, I think it is worth looking at. I would check without the pads to make sure they are the only drag on the wheel.

I wouldn't have thought of that - great idea.

 

[Deacon Blues]

I run 40 lbs, prob negligible difference but the rear spins better than yours apparently, I think it is worth looking at. I would check without the pads to make sure they are the only drag on the wheel…no squeezing the brakes without pads!

I'll have to look very closely to see if the rotor is centered between the two brake pads. If it isn't I may have to make some adjustments to the caliper.
I also just had the back wheel off so I could install the new, smaller cassette. It's possible I didn't put the wheel/axle completely up in the slot in the frame. Too bad it's not a through-axle setup.

 

[Deacon Blues]

By the way, when I spun the back wheel the chain was off the bike, so the back wheel was free-wheeling.

 

[Deacon Blues]

I looked at the brake pads on both the front and back wheels and both pad sets are very close to the rotor surface. The front wheels spins freely, but the back wheel doesn't.
Maybe it's time to go with opimax's suggestion and pull the rear pads to see if that makes a difference.

 

[Johnny]

I looked at the brake pads on both the front and back wheels and both pad sets are very close to the rotor surface. The front wheels spins freely, but the back wheel doesn't.

There are quite a lot of resources for brake adjustment.
First make sure that the wheel is centered, the axle is tight but not too tight.
Adjust the brake caliper, loosen the bolts, while holding the brake tighten them back. You can then slightly loosen one bolt to make finer adjustments.
If the rub is too much make sure that you don't have a sticky piston (did you pull the brakes while the wheel is off?).

 

[Deacon Blues]

On both front and back wheels the pads are 'resting' against the rotors, and no, I didn't pull the brake lever when the wheel was off.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

If it ever stops raining I'll be able to take my Pro for a ride, so I can take it through the gears. My only concern is with the deep-dish spiders the 'Q' factor is going to be increased substantially.
I'll have to see how it affects the ride. I don't want to get off the bike and walk like John Wayne.

I finally got a chance to take the bike out for a long ride to test out if the chain skips in the smaller cogs, now that I have the Fat spider and a smaller cassette installed.
The good news is the chain no longer skips in the 13t and 15t cog.
The bad news is the chain still skips in the 11t cog.

I was able to cruise along at 24/25mph, in level 3 power, and in the 11t cog, for a little while, just to check out my cadence that that speed.

Future plans are:
1. Change the 42t front chain ring to a 48t. This may allow me to maintain my higher cruising speeds and keep the chain on the 13t or 15t, where it doesn't skip.
2. Possibly go with the Garbaruk derailleur cage for better chain wrap.

This bike is a joy to ride.

Side note: There is noticeable drag with the 3.0 wide tires. Going down a long (not that steep) hill the bike actually lost speed.

Something I picked up. A cassette with 11t has 5 teeth on the cog when shifting. Both a 12t and a 13t would have 6 teeth on the cog when shifting. If you 13t now works?
How is your chain-line?
I've become confused. I have the 11sp coming. Yours is a 12sp?
Also, the I thought the CT's were through axle? Not that I care, just curious.
Have you seen the new CT? Just up on WW's site. Very nice, but getting heavier. My question is where do the panniers go?
Glad your up riding and posting impressions.

Regards

 

[Deacon Blues]

The rear axle is has a long skewer, so I guess it's a through axle, but I don't line the axle up with the holes in the frame and slide the through axle through the hole in the frame and then through the axle. Instead, there's 'U' slots in the frame and the axle fits up into the 'U' slots.
I have an 11 speed cassette. (11, 13, 15, 17.......42)

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Good. Same same set-up for me that's coming.
I'll be sure and keep you abreast of my research with various cassettes and chains.
For that set-up, I plan to start with a 48t ring. I will also check a cassette that starts with 12t.
I thought it through and you think you're on to something. There are few Ti owners.
The middle to youngsters set all want a 'batbike'. That's the cash flow.
WW tried to provide Ti - nu uh, wouldn't have it. The comments reflect the 'failure' to conceal the battery, etc. So no cash flow in Ti orders = no further development money > not the company model = Fizzzzle ...
... or, switch to Batbikes, get the cash flow going > thus the Hydra Superbike > Hydra Black > cashflow = YAY ! We survived !
Even now. They currently have (advertised) 2 UC's available - that means 2 Ti Frames unsold.
I'm hoping WW publishes a legacy registry.
In 20 years (250watt bike regulations - contracted and tracked by Musk's satellites), riders who exceed regulations will be confronted with: "Hi, You've got Fines!!!" when they open a screen on any device.
There'll be 'provenance' issues when these Ti beast's are rare production examples of a 100% street legal, 'between the regulations', excess gone mad, superbikes.
Unlike carbon, which has less than no recyclable value, Titanium - Nuclear sub/ turbofan material that does not wear out - other than for expense, is arguably the best material for this application regardless of cost, and an appreciating asset even as scrap.
I've had carbon stuff fail as a rule. Nothing in my Ti collection has broken
I like Titanium. My custom fishing rods have Ti guides.
I have cutlery with Ti handles and parts.
Even my key chain is Ti, lol.
Naturally I came to WW looking for a Ti Ultra bike.
-
Hope your getting some ride time in.
Still wonder about your present chain-line center - in 6th gear.
If that's perfect - sigh - matters get murky.
Thanks for the information

 

[Deacon Blues]

I've got a 48t Wolf Tooth chain ring coming. I'm hoping that with the 48 I can get the cadence/cruising speed I want and still keep the chain on the 2nd or 3rd (13t, 15t) cassette cog.
I was a bit worried that the huge 'Q' factor would feel strange and maybe bother my arthritic knees, but after a couple of kms I forgot about how wide apart the pedals were, and the 40km ride didn't bother my knees at all.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I've got a 48t Wolf Tooth chain ring coming. I'm hoping that with the 48 I can get the cadence/cruising speed I want and still keep the chain on the 2nd or 3rd (13t, 15t) cassette cog.
I was a bit worried that the huge 'Q' factor would feel strange and maybe bother my arthritic knees, but after a couple of kms I forgot about how wide apart the pedals were, and the 40km ride didn't bother my knees at all.

I had looked at Wolf Tooth, but found Dekas at 1/4 the price.
I like the Made in USA thing but another problem was they do not make a 48t 110BCD Bash Guard.
Finding all the 48t BG's I could locate were not-so-hot variations of the same cheap item, I located a custom American company and at that they only had templates to produce a 46t in billet for me. I think they since went out of business.
This is pretty awesome (but not in 110BCD - sigh) https://bikerumor.com/2-piece-titanium-bash-guard-41-grams-of-custom-fabrication-from-texas/
Worthy of your machine when you 'upgrade'.
Good news re: knees. I have such an issue. It's improper seat height that sets me off.
Cheers !!!
Tight chain-lines !!! - to coin a phrase,
Fn'F

 

[Deacon Blues]

I'm not concerned about the lack of a bash guard, because my UC Pro will never see anything more adventurous than a gravel pathway.
You're right about the price of the Wolf Tooth ring......it's expensive!

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I'm not concerned about the lack of a bash guard, because my UC Pro will never see anything more adventurous than a gravel pathway.
You're right about the price of the Wolf Tooth ring......it's expensive!

It keeps my pants off the chain - and was even more $$$ than the WolfTooth ring was or is.
It 'Guards' me from bashing that toothed grinder. lol. I'm a klutz.
Three pairs of my Carhartts with chain marks, now no more $50 pants being ruined.
That's laser cut billet stock. I can't find the company. They went bye, bye. It's an heirloom product and will undoubtedly end up on my new machine.
My simpleminded thoughts ... what happens when alloy interfaces hardened steel? Alloy will take most significant wear and die the fastest - a great canary in the coalmine.
A Ring's more leveraged interface (more teeth gripping the chain) in this case won't help.
When the power comes on, the (harder) chain is still trying to tear the teeth off the ring (it want's to go slower = to the mass difference of the wheels drag) and the (softer) alloy ring is trying to rip the links off the chain to get the giddyap on (wanting to go faster = shaft N.M. output equilibrium factor. Ie: 'Somethin's gotta spin' effect). Continuous application of power is different. Intermittent is 'bang, bang, bang' force.
On the other hand, a hard steel Ring (with all those teeth employed at any given time) would eat the cassette/ chain first.
I concluded > buy cheaper ring gears.
Although I purchased from an MTB Cottage Shop, I doubt my guard qualifies as a real "Bash" Guard. Those are much heavier duty, aimed at preventing high-centered impact from raised obstacles. I agree, no plans here for off-road.
No photo of your present chain-line huh?
You have the Nextie rims too? Did you order it that way, or take a bike they had ready?
That should make your bike about as light as it can reliably be, short of weightweenieing w/ Ti fasteners and carbon cranks.
I'm not assessing the Fork's weight - the Mattoc being 200 grams lighter than the Mezzer or Auron's 2000grams.
Your alloy bars are lighter than the titanium I have planned.
An interesting build.

Seeing it in person is different. It's a work of art.

Happy holidays; Positive spirit; Forgiving heart,

Fn'F

 

[Deacon Blues]

Even though I've solved most of my chain skipping problem I would still not recommend anyone ordering my bike (with the older frame, which has the much wider rear axle) with a derailleur setup.
With the fat spider, which gives the bike a huge 'Q' factor, there is still some skipping, and I suspect I'll be frequently going through chains and cassettes.
If I had it to do over again I would have gone with the Kindernay, or Rohloff hub. I know they have their own set of negatives, but (in my humble opinion) they're a much better option that the derailleur setup.
Hopefully, Pushkar has solved this huge cross chain problem with the new UC Pro frames that are coming.

I'll be interested in how the derailleur setup works on your upcoming bike.

 

[Deacon Blues]

It finally stopped raining, so I took advantage of the decent weather to go for a 70km ride (40miles).
Because the chain still skips in the smallest 11t cassette cog I didn't go lower than the 13t cog, which topped out my maximum cruising speed at around 20-21 mph at my preferred cadence (around 80).
I'm hoping that the 48t front chain ring I ordered will allow me to cruise at a bit higher speeds, maybe in the 22 to 25 mph range. I don't often ride at those speeds, but there are times when I want to haul ass.
The bike performed well and felt really comfortable.
Because I knew I was going 40 miles I took along my extra battery.....just in case. I don't know what that battery weighs, but I can tell you that damn thing is HEAVY!

I ended up not needing it. I started out with 92% and ended up with 30%. Half the ride was in level 1, but I found the bike to be too heavy for this level, when trying to maintain a decent cruising speed.
For the last half of the ride I bumped the power up to level 2, which felt a lot better.

At one point it felt like the power had fallen off and I had to pedal harder to maintain the same speed. Shortly after that the full power came back on. I'm not quite sure what was going on here and I'll have to see if that happens again on future rides.

 

[vincent]

glad the mileage seemed good and really hoping the 48t solves your problems