Yes--the FAT, not the Boost. However, for the record I need to revise that statement slightly. While test fitting some really fat tires and spending some more time eyeballing lately, I'd say it's not perfectly in the center--more like 1.5-2mm inboard of center of a 12 speed cassette. This matches what you'd expect based upon the Bafang drawings posted earlier. In any case, especially when compared with the chainlines posted in this thread and others, even if not optimum it's certainly pretty darn close and has been close enough to work very well as I've never had a chain skip in the smaller cogs with 1500 peak watts. Of course I don't make a habit of hitting full power in the small cogs at low speeds (shouldn't do that anyway). And interestingly, in that BikeRumor! article loamoaf posted they said 70-72mm works the best and so the Bafang standard of 70mm should give one confidence you're starting in the right ballpark. But it does make me feel a bit better as I won't need to feel guilty spacing the chainring out a bit for more tire clearance.
I'm interested to see what you'll need to clear those 2XL's. Temporarily mounting the Johnny 5's on 80mm rims (with tubes) I get no chain rubbing without any spacers. However, it is close and I suspect with wider wheels and after some tire stretch, I'll need some spacers.
The Prime 9 certainly does solve a bunch of these issues, as the biggest cog is spaced outboard 6mm relative to a 12 speed. This makes it possible for a much better chainline at both ends of the cassette. I just wish the reviews of their derailleurs gave me more of a warm fuzzy. I get the impression they'd be a downgrade from the Sram stuff I'm used to and didn't feel like experimenting at this time. Maybe I will at some point in the future....
It appears they work w/ SRAM derailleurs. Below info is from the Prime 9™ Drivetrain Compatibility Manual
Box Three Prime 9 11-46T / 11-50T Cassette
"This is the most common style of derailleur hanger used in the industry.
Prime 9 Derailleurs are
NOT compatible with
Shimano Direct Mount Derailleur Hangers.
To Identify your derailleur hanger type: (see image below)
- If you currently have a Sram Derailleur; you are compatible.
- Sram does not make direct mount derailleurs at this time.
- If you currently have a Shimano Derailleur with a B-Link; (SEE IMAGE)
- You have a Traditional hanger and are compatible.
- You will need to remove the b-link prior to installing the derailleur directly to the hanger
- If you currently have a Shimano Derailleur without a B-link;
- You have a direct mount derailleur hanger and are not compatible."
Link:
Prime 9 Manual
....................................................................................................................................................................................
I'm still asea. We certainly require a users manual and full disclosure of what parts are on this machine, stock - they call it "scantlings" in Nautical creations. This cagey stuff, and mixing parts that won't work correctly and are obviously not tested won't get it.
I'm not a crash dummy. I'm not taking everything apart to find out what kind of freewheeler is at the bottom of the mess, so I can install parts that should have come installed by the maker.
@Deacon Blues if your display looks like this it's the 750C
here's a thread including link to manual for it
View attachment 107434
The K-VII is 428% range, I don't recall where I saw the specific ratios but its top end is higher than the XIV's -
I am speed
I have no idea how the Onesie shifter would
add $600 to the cost of the hub when the Kindernay store shows the €1000 price of the hub with either shifter option.
The 160Nm warning & warranty coverage is a big part of what influenced me to just want 1000W out of the X1
The SA3 is 177%, SA4 210%, SA5 243% and as far as I can tell none of them come in a thru-axle standard unfortunately. I do know of someone who slapped an RX-RK5 on their bike with a BBSHD and it wasn't giving them much grief but I have no idea what wattage they run. The X-RK4 gives the highest top gear ratio
TDA's right about the 35E's - they are a good high capacity cell but they don't really like being run at the top end of their ratings for maxing the cycle life. The 500 minimum standard cycle life is given using 1020mA charging & 3400mA discharge (850~900W on a 52V) - but weirdly the cycle life rating they give is to 60% instead of 80%... anywho watching the max charge and discharge voltage is going to help to lengthen that cycle life way more
I'm trying to catch a sunrise on a mountain so off to sleep I go
There are people running 5000w on SA3's. They were offered by WW on various builds. The '3' is the one. The rest are not superior to any other IGH. The strength lies in the middle gears massive pawls and structure. They too will skip I read, but I'd think the Gates would start tearing chunks off first - as has been reported by actual users.
K'nay's store says :"You'll find this tech in", then shows the ($2000,00) K7
and K14, but when you look at the K7, even put it in your cart, nowhere does it say a twosie is included in the price.
I can't call it, but I have seen just the shifter for 680.00 euros with the K14 next to it, for sale for another 1990.00 euros - in the cart. That could have been in pounds sterling, not euros too. It was a Brit site and I'd already stopped paying attention.
I have all the specs in a file - which the cheesy company won't tell you.
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Didn't know they dumped the fatties. I can tell you one reason why though. The Huge mass of wheel has to be moved.
Best analogy I can put forth is like installing a toyota celica tranny in a dump-truck. Now spot the weak link in that mental picture.
If your bike was sold capable of generating more that 160Nm, the K'nay warranty is void - as I remember - after 30days.
If they say 'you broke it, you own it', you'll never ever be able to get compensation. The venue is in Norway - LOL
They can tell from apparent damage if it exceeded 160Nm. But of course! It can't take any more without breaking, so it's obvious you screwed up. They've seen a hundred stripped.
Three years since I started riding, I'm a tyro with bikes, but I built rally cars. 2liter Cars that (stock) 110hp @ 6000, became 290hp @ 7600rpm.
The biggest weakness was the CVC's and Differentials vs the torque moving my fat Michlen XWX tires.
I went less grippy, lightweight Yokohamas, no problems.
I won't detail the entire scenario and exactly why, mechanically. Suffice, the CVC was slipping in turns (as it should) and when I accelerated out in 2nd gear it stripped out the differential. Same when I downshifted into a turn a went WOT - crunch.
Understand, I'm driving on the edge of control and sideways. 290hp not much nowadays, but the weight total is 1900lbs, 6.5 lbs per hp, roughly = a Hellcat w/ 707hp, but this is a vehicle built to drive like a madman through any weather, suffer going airborne on unimproved surfaces. They corner & stop with such ungodly G's - while not losing control - it makes you see spots and snot come out of your nose. My co-pilot and I have had to overturn the machine out of a snowbank I rolled over in and ended up upside down. Great full diving a machine to 4th place (in a field of 37) when the whole car's unibody frame is off kilter. Race officials inspected and I ended up with a ticket. lol. Unsafe vehicle use.
An amazing testimony to the German bearings and components, while not meshing correctly surviving 300miles of brutal abuse. I had one headlight and lost half the passenger side (Hey, guess why I'm Fast and Furious? You'll still be wrong)
Anyhow, not to overly digress, the solution was dump the 4cyl diffs/ axles/ cvc's and use a 6cyl's. I couldn't compromise the tires. They were the plan.
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My point is, when you are using what might be normal power (160Nm max) to drive that heavier mass of fatties, the issues K'nay was having with 160Nm bikes is magnified.
M x V4 = TI (Terminal Impact Torque), so TI (equating torque with impact) = The Torque, times the 'Mass squared'. So using larger 'mass' wheels = exponentially larger torque effects.
K'nay, okay w/ 160Nm for 3" tires, is no help when you squared the mass and find 200Nm w/ 4" Mulfuts.
So yeah. In a country covered in snow, 9 months of the year where fat bikes make total sense, they said no more Fat bikes?
Fits right in with my experience.
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Downgrading the total plan really makes sense if you don't think about it.
Thinking: Okay, I'll compromise the TI Ultra plan. The 'plan' is now the K'nay and I'll play by their rules.
I'll sacrifice the overpowered Ti/ Ultra Motor combo, fat tire options, shifters, reasonable service and not having to drive like a girl because it's all that'll work without ending up staring at a crunched mess, looking back and saying "I wonder if it was me?""
That's a $2600.00 question, the sword of Damocles hanging over thy head - that I'll think of every last time ride.
Ewwww. Don't forget to pray to the kindernay god and obey the 'kindersaic laws'. Really?
I hate being conditioned to change my behavior, intent, my plan and I don't want K'nay in my head, or dominating my agenda with a limiting factor, unsuitable for my entire plan.
An IGH won't work for the 2300watt 'plan'. On occasion, I most certainly intend to use that power and this begs another question I've raised:
Why bother with this machine? It's Stallion, not a lame Gelding.
I'm not downgrading my machine for Norway. We should sell them Hellcats over there with Toyota 5sp's - 'whatever you do, this car is rated for 99horsepower. DO NOT PRESS the accelerator. See. You just did and in 30 days your warranty's dust - but DO NOT DRIVE further before sending to Moscow for evaluation (fine print says 48monthe waiting list).
Gates belt is same story. Developed for bicycles, upgraded for use (with ZERO changes) to pedalec e-bike - for EU = 250watts.
That's 'Human Power Torque'. Not an upgrade for
REAL E-bikes, you readily find gates on underpowered e-bikes (Ride one Up has one on an $1100 bike).
I really wanted to be impressed. The whole concept is sooooo hip.
The comparison to Gates Belts running blowers, producing 4000hp overpowered the
fact that these cheesy belts can't take much - what they call - 'punishment' - that I call regular use on an Ultra. Budadudadudadud as the skip along, jumping teeth at 160Nm.
Looked good and tasted great tho.
No disrespect implied fellahs, but apparently Ultra owners, us awaiting delivery and fans need a separate topic: "How to downgraded my WW to work with (name inferior a limiting product of choice)". That way, I'd all know the latest in
what doesn't work.
For me, when the price is an insult and the advertising is fulla-bull, I'ma grab my wallet to hide it, not spend my bread.
You can still buy the same frame WW uses and a stock Ultra for around $1800.00 and install what you like.
And as a word to those who actually figure
the value of 'things' where I live vs the value in Norway, I suggest they read this
https://www.lifeinnorway.net/scandinavian-socialism/ before the start financing. Then they might get the gist of why they're paying triple value for a Norwegian made IGH.
Fn'Fn' again
