My First DIY - Gravel Bike w/TSDZ2

Can you tell what's the specific model for the rear rack? Cause I've seen multiple ones on Axiom, also did you find the front rack already. I'm about to start building a similar one in few days, any inputs would be appreciated.
Axiom Streamliner Disk DLX

Might be hard to find one for under $50 anymore, at least not including shipping...
 
For once I'll let the pictures do the talkin'... View attachment 74985😄:cool:
Links to bike and kit below 👍
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Beautiful.
How do you like that suspension stem? I am torn on that one and the Redshift.
 
Beautiful.
How do you like that suspension stem? I am torn on that one and the Redshift.
Thanks, it's fun to ride.
I can't say either stem is significantly better than the other, though I prefer Kinekt's spring system for absorbing faster vibrations (like gravel creates). I also ended up swapping the seat post for Kinekt's BodyFloat for the same reason.
 
Thanks, it's fun to ride.
I can't say either stem is significantly better than the other, though I prefer Kinekt's spring system for absorbing faster vibrations (like gravel creates). I also ended up swapping the seat post for Kinekt's BodyFloat for the same reason.
I am in the planning stages now and thinking hard about mimicking you set up on a 2021 Kona Dew. I am toying with the idea of the 48v water bottle battery though for a lighter weight build with no throttle or brake cutoffs.
so you have been happy with this kit overall?
 
I've never done a DIY install on a regular bike before, but reading this thread has me thinking about completing one.
I went to the Eco Cycles website and picked out he kit, voltage, chain ring, and gear, but I don't see where I choose the wattage of motor.
What am I missing here?
 
I've never done a DIY install on a regular bike before, but reading this thread has me thinking about completing one.
I went to the Eco Cycles website and picked out he kit, voltage, chain ring, and gear, but I don't see where I choose the wattage of motor.
What am I missing here?
Which voltage are you considering and which motor package? I just looked at the 36V with the VLCD-6 mini display. I see what you mean.. Looks like that is 250W but they do not explicitly say. I can deduce that by matching. I did not see a 350W which is Goldilocks, just right. Try it without the speed sensor attached and put the wheel circumference at 100cm. You do this by holding both arrow buttons for about six-seconds. Remember that a lower nominal Watt bleed-out rate will give longer range. A three-fifty can go more than twice as far as a 750W. And 80 or 85Nm is more powerful than the high-end bikes from stores. You will out run and out last them. Speeds higher than 24Mph also drain batteries quickly because of much higher rates of wind resistance. For example, it takes 300W to go 22Mph, 400W to go 24, and 500W to go 25.5 Mph. That is your pedal power plus the motor on a road bike. At 20Mph it only burns up 85-90W. Check the attached charts.
 
Another display option is the C3 which is pretty nice, has 5 levels of assist and more programmable than the xh18 twist control display and not oversized like the VLCD5.
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Trip odometer and residual voltage reading is from a single charge on a cheap 48v 15ah battery including ~7500 ft climbing that occurred over ~20 miles of this total (4 rides over a span of 5 days, not a single ride - I wish). Range depends on a lot of factors but since I ride ebikes I'm obviously not a super fit rider so the 48v 750w version must be very efficient.
 
I was thinking of this model:



What would be the difference between a 36v 350W setup and a 48v 500W setup?
Depending on the bike I end up putting it on I'll probably go with the 48v bottle battery:

 
I was thinking of this model:



What would be the difference between a 36v 350W setup and a 48v 500W setup?
Depending on the bike I end up putting it on I'll probably go with the 48v bottle battery:

The battery looks nice. Find out what cells are inside. Cheap cells will sag and do not hold up. Also find out about shipping charges. That is a great deal!!! - too good to be true?
48x500 sounds nice. Keep the power level as low as you can and cadence up.
This has nothing to do with the topic, but I saw this $999.99 bike today. Check out the groupset. Now that is a clean build. All internal.
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I was thinking of this model:



What would be the difference between a 36v 350W setup and a 48v 500W setup?
Depending on the bike I end up putting it on I'll probably go with the 48v bottle battery:

I have purchased two TSDZ2 from them. Both were $415 but there were shipping charges added for the second one, something like in the $20-$30 range. Ask them directly but, based on 15a max draw for the 36v and 18a draw for the 48v, I suspect the 36v is 500w while the 48v is 750w. That's what mine are anyway. For the first one I chose the 34t chainring - they supplied the motor with the stock 42t dished spoke and a 34t flat chainring in the box at no additional charge. I was lucky that they included the dished chainring which was needed for all of the bikes I tried these motors on. I did buy one of their 34t 5mm dished n/w chainrings as well as a 42t 10mm dished n/w chainring. The biggest issue with these add on mid drives is getting a good chainline.
I don't see them list the C3 display but that is what they supplied for my 48v version and I'm glad they did.
That battery looks like a decent deal if you want a bottle type battery.
 
I am in the planning stages now and thinking hard about mimicking you set up on a 2021 Kona Dew. I am toying with the idea of the 48v water bottle battery though for a lighter weight build with no throttle or brake cutoffs.
so you have been happy with this kit overall?
I went with 48V 500W with the SW102 mini display, no throttle or brake sensor. When I bought it, EcoCycles had ample battery supply - I went with their 14Ah offering. Yeah, it's heavy, but at some point I'll probably take this for a nice long bikepack trek...

I'm super pleased overall after several hundred miles (half trail, half road). IMO, the TSDZ2 has similarities to both Bosch's Performance Line (Gen2) and Yamaha's PW in its performance. It accelerates kinda like the Gen 2, but prefers a lower cadence like the PW. I have thousands of miles of experience on those two "mainstream" motors, mostly from 2015-2018 but I still have a 2017 Haibike with PW.

One suggestion I have is not to try the 52T chainring on the Tongsheng unless you've got all of the supplied braces in place - the so-called fixing block wouldn't fit the Redwood's frame and this probably contributed to the following problem.
 
I went with 48V 500W with the SW102 mini display, no throttle or brake sensor. When I bought it, EcoCycles had ample battery supply - I went with their 14Ah offering. Yeah, it's heavy, but at some point I'll probably take this for a nice long bikepack trek...

I'm super pleased overall after several hundred miles (half trail, half road). IMO, the TSDZ2 has similarities to both Bosch's Performance Line (Gen2) and Yamaha's PW in its performance. It accelerates kinda like the Gen 2, but prefers a lower cadence like the PW. I have thousands of miles of experience on those two "mainstream" motors, mostly from 2015-2018 but I still have a 2017 Haibike with PW.

One suggestion I have is not to try the 52T chainring on the Tongsheng unless you've got all of the supplied braces in place - the so-called fixing block wouldn't fit the Redwood's frame and this probably contributed to the following problem.
I am planning on the 42t since the Dew has a 36t now. Will be commuting mostly with some joy rides on the weekends and I plan on doing a second build on a similar bike so that I can still ride if one needs some maintenance. Metal of stock plastic gear? That is my next decision.
 
I am planning on the 42t since the Dew has a 36t now. Will be commuting mostly with some joy rides on the weekends and I plan on doing a second build on a similar bike so that I can still ride if one needs some maintenance. Metal of stock plastic gear? That is my next decision.
The metal gear sounds like a suffering coffee grinder. The blue gear is much better. This is one of the ones I am working on now. It is a 1983 triple butted, lugged, Japan, chromoly frame, X-L. It will do mostly roads, paths and trails in The Sea Ranch. The area is on the San Andreas Fault on the coast here in Sonoma, so the terrain is dramatic with big climbs.
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I have the nylon/plastic gears in both of mine. Overall they are pretty quiet, sometimes hard to hear at all, more of a high pitched whine spinning at higher cadences. Initially the 48v 750w version was louder but that improved a lot after 100 or so miles of riding. I bought a spare blue nylon gear when they were going for $8 on walmart.com. Replacement doesn't look difficult if/when needed.
 
Will I have enough clearance for the TSZD2 with the cabling here?
 

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What's the fender on the bike? It's really hard to find one to fit the 2.35" wide tires..
Assuming you're referring to my OP bike, the front fender's a typical face-saver mudguard. The rear is Zefal's Deflector FM-30.

Will I have enough clearance for the TSZD2 with the cabling here?
I doubt it - and it's not just the cabling. It appears that the downtube attaches to the bottom bracket shell with a protruding lip that allows room for the cables (pic below).
The TSDZ2 has an attachment bracket (2d pic) that wraps tightly around the BB shell, which makes it difficult-to-impossible to fit properly with any such shell protrusions.
The Poseidon Redwood also has such a lip, but the cable and weld placements allowed me to round it out just barely enough to fit (wish I took pics of it before installation).
I couldn't get the motor as far forward on the BB as I'd have liked - it's directly below the BB (3d pic) - but it works.

Send your BB pic to EcoCycles and see what they think?

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Assuming you're referring to my OP bike, the front fender's a typical face-saver mudguard. The rear is Zefal's Deflector FM-30.


I doubt it - and it's not just the cabling. It appears that the downtube attaches to the bottom bracket shell with a protruding lip that allows room for the cables (pic below).
The TSDZ2 has an attachment bracket (2d pic) that wraps tightly around the BB shell, which makes it difficult-to-impossible to fit properly with any such shell protrusions.
The Poseidon Redwood also has such a lip, but the cable and weld placements allowed me to round it out just barely enough to fit (wish I took pics of it before installation).
I couldn't get the motor as far forward on the BB as I'd have liked - it's directly below the BB (3d pic) - but it works.

Send your BB pic to EcoCycles and see what they think?

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I will email Eco. It would suck since I really wanted to put the Tsdz2 on this particular bike.
 
I'm not saying that a TSDZ2 will fit on your frame but that flange on the motor cover didn't deter me from installing on on my wife's Dahon Briza. Besides doing work on the frame I just removed the left cover of the motor, slid the motor in the bottom bracket then replaced the motor cover that has the flange on it. There is a sticker/seal on the motor where the cover comes off stating the warranty is void if seal is broken but eco-ebike indicated to me that they wouldn't void the warranty if the seal was broken in this instance just to be able to fit the motor.
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