My Espin Sport

I get that, my 700 is supposed to be here next week basically my only concern is that it doesn't have the chain guide on the inside but I'll see how it goes. I see what you're saying but my way of looking at that is with a possible 9 levels of assist, If I want that many, if those slightly wider tires make it a little more difficult to pedal with no assist I can put it in 1 and then adjust the amount of assist I get in level 1 to whatever I want. So basically if I rode an Espin sport with no assist and then hopped right on a 700 with no assist and I didn't like how it was harder to pedal I could have just level 1 to basically match the exact same effort you get on the sport with no assist.
 
I get that, my 700 is supposed to be here next week basically my only concern is that it doesn't have the chain guide on the inside but I'll see how it goes. I see what you're saying but my way of looking at that is with a possible 9 levels of assist, If I want that many, if those slightly wider tires make it a little more difficult to pedal with no assist I can put it in 1 and then adjust the amount of assist I get in level 1 to whatever I want. So basically if I rode an Espin sport with no assist and then hopped right on a 700 with no assist and I didn't like how it was harder to pedal I could have just level 1 to basically match the exact same effort you get on the sport with no assist.

Sure... but the bonus is I use less battery. :)
 
Sure... but the bonus is I use less battery. :)
How did I know you would say that. I'm not too worried about that as if I'm peddling a lot I should get 50 mi of range. That'll do me fine most of the time. If I happen to run out then I'll just pedal. No big deal. The way I look at it I'll do most of the more strenuous pedaling early in the ride, maybe take a nice long ride and then when I'm beat use the battery more on the way home.
 
Yeah. This is all theoretical until I actually start riding the bike.

With my current regular bike, it's a 24-speed (3x8) MTB that I modified to be more like an upright city bike. I spend most of my time in the 3rd gear between 2 and 7... only dropping to 2nd or 1st on the front if having to go up hills (which I can do, but is tiring). What I hope is that the standard 8 speeds on the Sport I can use for most of my riding (2-7 like on my MTB) and then only having to use the PAS (or throttle) on hills (and be less tiring).

I'm basically replacing my lower gears with electric power. :)
 
Yeah. This is all theoretical until I actually start riding the bike.

With my current regular bike, it's a 24-speed (3x8) MTB that I modified to be more like an upright city bike. I spend most of my time in the 3rd gear between 2 and 7... only dropping to 2nd or 1st on the front if having to go up hills (which I can do, but is tiring). What I hope is that the standard 8 speeds on the Sport I can use for most of my riding (2-7 like on my MTB) and then only having to use the PAS (or throttle) on hills (and be less tiring).

I'm basically replacing my lower gears with electric power. :)
I'm planning on using mine a little more mixed. I do plan on using it to get more exercise, which I think I will get because it'll be more fun, but I do also plan on using it with more electric power for other purposes. Like if I take it to work at the end of the day I might be beat and want to just let the bike do to work on the way home. I figured that's the advantage of electric, I'll be able to take further trips on the bike. Maybe eventually I'll get to the point where I'll do it I'll take the same trips with no assistance but even then you'll have even more range because of the battery.
 
That's why you have PAS, if a wider tire makes it a lot little more difficult to pedal put it on PAS1 , if level 1 is too much boost adjust it....
As long as less range and more difficult pedaling if the battery runs out of juice are okay with you.
 
As long as less range and more difficult pedaling if the battery runs out of juice are okay with you.
Seriously? How much more difficult will the pedaling be, if any, with that slightly wider tire? Other things factor in like the tread design of the tire, rolling resistance etc... Ya I'm totally ok with the slightly less possible range.
 
Seriously? How much more difficult will the pedaling be, if any, with that slightly wider tire? Other things factor in like the tread design of the tire, rolling resistance etc... Ya I'm totally ok with the slightly less possible range.
There is a reason road bikes have tires as narrow as 23mm. It is not for style.
 
There is a reason road bikes have tires as narrow as 23mm. It is not for style.
Thank you Dr science. I didn't say it has no effect I said I doubt it has a major effect. It's not even the width of the tire that really matters it's the size of the contact patch if you want to get technical. everyone has their own needs, for me I don't plan on hopping on this bike and pedaling 500 mi at a clip. And somebody can take both bikes and do a proper range test between the two then it's worth talking about.
I'm more interested in regards to the tire which one is a better tire overall, does one have puncture resistance and the other doesn't. Stuff like that. There are also other differences, I looked at the sport but I like the frame design of the 700 better, I like the battery on the bottom better, I think the display looks better, it looks like the cables and wires are more neatly routed..... I like the adjustability of the power assist levels better. If that means the slightly wider tire hurts my range a bit I'm okay with that.
 
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The Kenda Komforts on the Espin do not have puncture protection which is a downer... I do think the R1U bikes are using puncture protection tires.

That's something Espin should consider to add value to their brand... how much more expensive are tires with puncture protection?
 
Thank you Dr science. I didn't say it has no effect I said I doubt it has a major effect. It's not even the width of the tire that really matters it's the size of the contact patch if you want to get technical. everyone has their own needs, for me I don't plan on hopping on this bike and pedaling 500 mi at a clip. And somebody can take both bikes and do a proper range test between the two then it's worth talking about.
I'm more interested in regards to the tire which one is a better tire overall, does one have puncture resistance and the other doesn't. Stuff like that. There are also other differences, I looked at the sport but I like the frame design of the 700 better, I like the battery on the bottom better, I think the display looks better, it looks like the cables and wires are more neatly routed..... I like the adjustability of the power assist levels better. If that means the slightly wider tire hurts my range a bit I'm okay with that.
If you want to get technical, tire size has several effects. Increased contact patch means increased friction. Increased tire width means increased air resistance. Increased tire weight means greater inertia, meaning more power needed to accelerate and more friction needed to stop. On the flip side, wider tires are more comfortable on rough surfaces and float better on soft surfaces.
 
If you want to get technical, tire size has several effects. Increased contact patch means increased friction. Increased tire width means increased air resistance. Increased tire weight means greater inertia, meaning more power needed to accelerate and more friction needed to stop. On the flip side, wider tires are more comfortable on rough surfaces and float better on soft surfaces.

Curious, Civ, did you do anything to your Sport tires upon delivery ie Slime, tube protection etc? And on that note, have you had a flat yet?
 
If you want to get technical, tire size has several effects. Increased contact patch means increased friction. Increased tire width means increased air resistance. Increased tire weight means greater inertia, meaning more power needed to accelerate and more friction needed to stop. On the flip side, wider tires are more comfortable on rough surfaces and float better on soft surfaces.
Exactly, but a wider tire has that measurement taken at its widest point doesn't it? In other words one tire could be a half inch wider than the other but only a quarter inch more contact patch depending on the profile of the tire. Increase contact patch also means better traction
 
The Kenda Komforts on the Espin do not have puncture protection which is a downer... I do think the R1U bikes are using puncture protection tires.

That's something Espin should consider to add value to their brand... how much more expensive are tires with puncture protection?
Ya the700 has Schwalbe Moto X's with puncture protection. I can't say if they help or not as I've never used them and even then it's kind of hard to know if you would have gotten more punctures with a different tire
 
Curious, Civ, did you do anything to your Sport tires upon delivery ie Slime, tube protection etc? And on that note, have you had a flat yet?
I've had no flats nor used slime so far. If I get a few flats, I'll likely get puncture-resistant tires. I do try to ride around broken glass and metal debris.
 
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Plus a thinner tire is a faster ride.
There are many other factors at play in determiing how fast you ride besides tire width, even with other tire characteristics themselves. And you can always use more muscle power or assist power - really easy on an e-bike. The Ride1Up bikes give you granular control over your power.
 
There are many other factors at play in determiing how fast you ride besides tire width, even with other tire characteristics themselves. And you can always use more muscle power or assist power - really easy on an e-bike. The Ride1Up bikes give you granular control over your power.

You can't claim that until you actually ride one. :)
 
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