Most Popular E-Bike company on this forum

[lilrich]

Yep and yep on the case and center mount display. The batteries are now an aluminum extrusion casing, much improved plug as well as higher capacity. The center mount display is backwards compatible and can be added to any side display bike as the thumb control pad replaces the side display. So any EM can be center display regardless of the original configuration.

 

[bob armani]

Yep and yep on the case and center mount display. The batteries are now an aluminum extrusion casing, much improved plug as well as higher capacity. The center mount display is backwards compatible and can be added to any side display bike as the thumb control pad replaces the side display. So any EM can be center display regardless of the original configuration.

Thanks lilrich! You indicated that it is okay to pick your brain, so here I go:
My Evo Jet 350 has been getting occasional code 5, 6, 13 and 14 (flashing) while riding. Some are comm errors, motor errors or pressing pedal down during startup errors, however, they usually happen after I power up and begin to ride. The codes will flash and then I lose power completely. I then stop, re-seat display and power back on. Sometimes the bike will then begin lunging forward on its own (like I am activating the throttle). I then stop power down and re-seat again and power up, and the problem is then rectified for the rest of the ride with no codes or lunging.

My thinking is that I need to exercise the contacts on the back of the display with some Air Duster to clean contacts. I also am going to use another side display I have from another EM bike I have to troubleshoot further. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[lilrich]

You are right in all respects 5,6 are motor related error but when grouped like that likely false positives. 13 comm error and 14 is footer (powering up with pedal pressure) the most common cause...display or display cradle. Wipe contacts with a clean cloth (or dirty shirt tail HA) no solvent usually needed. If corroded or really dirty (sometimes moisture gets in) a pencil erasure will work. Check the contacts on the back of your display by pressing in with your fingernail, they should spring back out freely. sometimes they stick. Check the connector plug to the display. Unscrew the silver knurled locking collar and unplug, replug making sure to secure the collar. Finally make sure the display cradle mounting screws are not overtightened, the cradle should be able to rotate with slight resistance on the handlebar. Overtightening the cradle will distort it and interrupt connection. Lastly if the problem persists there may be an internal intermittent connection in the cradle. If you have a cradle with silver colored contacts seemed to be more prone, newer runs of the cradle have gold colored contacts and seem less problematic. And really lastly the display could be at fault, rare but not unheard of. PM me if this does not solve your issue we have all the parts in stock if you need anything. If it turns out to be the display we only carry the latest version new, fully compatible and larger digits for our old eyes. If you are a stickler for original we do have a limited number of used old style in white, tested good but with miles on them.

 

[John from Connecticut]

@Ann M.

Only for personal curiosity and to help me decide on a bike for myself and my wife. I thought it would help others decide as well. I have spent hours reading the by brand reviews only to find I have more questions. I am driven to research everything I use or buy (sometimes to an obsession). I have found researching other things that the most popular items are that for a reason. Usually, they may not be the best but check enough boxes for most people to find their way to popularity.

I never thought of the post in the light you shed on it. I hope you do not feel it inappropriate as that was not my intention.

Thanks
Keith

Keith, You wrote... " Only for personal curiosity and to help me decide on a bike for myself and my wife." May I offer a suggestion
regarding e-bikes and the purchase of same.... First I get the whole analytical research thing. I come from a technical background. Researching can be 'fun', but not as much fun as actually riding an e-bike.

My e-bike selection process. On one of my visits to my LBS where I purchased my traditional road bike, my sales rep suggested I take one of
the e-bikes out for a ride because each time I visited the shop I'd ask about the bikes just 'cause. I was curious, no specific interest. One
day I decided to take an e-bike out for a ride, no prior research, no reading, nothing. I had never even sat on an e-bike.

Ten minutes into the ride I knew right then this 'e-bike thing was for me', case closed. I returned to my LBS, bought the e-bike and I've never regretted my decision. Would I do it again ? I did.. I wanted to ride hard packed gravel trails. The commuter bike wasn't stable enough for my liking on gravel, so I ordered a hard tail mountain bike for trails (and road) without even test riding. That's how much I was impressed which my first bike. The mountain bike is all that I imagined and so much more. Hope this was helpful

I believe cycling (e-bikes or non) is a personal choice and everyone needs to do what is most comfortable for them. Good luck.


John from CT

 

[keithd]

@John from Connecticut

Thank you, I actually did just that tried two bikes both were, however, Haibikes at my LBS (2 hours away) which were recommended and neither jumped out at me.

 

[bob armani]

You are right in all respects 5,6 are motor related error but when grouped like that likely false positives. 13 comm error and 14 is footer (powering up with pedal pressure) the most common cause...display or display cradle. Wipe contacts with a clean cloth (or dirty shirt tail HA) no solvent usually needed. If corroded or really dirty (sometimes moisture gets in) a pencil erasure will work. Check the contacts on the back of your display by pressing in with your fingernail, they should spring back out freely. sometimes they stick. Check the connector plug to the display. Unscrew the silver knurled locking collar and unplug, replug making sure to secure the collar. Finally make sure the display cradle mounting screws are not overtightened, the cradle should be able to rotate with slight resistance on the handlebar. Overtightening the cradle will distort it and interrupt connection. Lastly if the problem persists there may be an internal intermittent connection in the cradle. If you have a cradle with silver colored contacts seemed to be more prone, newer runs of the cradle have gold colored contacts and seem less problematic. And really lastly the display could be at fault, rare but not unheard of. PM me if this does not solve your issue we have all the parts in stock if you need anything. If it turns out to be the display we only carry the latest version new, fully compatible and larger digits for our old eyes. If you are a stickler for original we do have a limited number of used old style in white, tested good but with miles on them.

Thanks lilrich for your input! Yes, I have the silver locking collars and silver colored contacts on the plugs and cradle, however, I have checked most of your suggestions from time to time. The spring action on the contacts are all okay except for one that is 'lazy' and takes time to protrude out like the rest of them. I worked it with a hollow pencil end and air spray, however, it still takes time to become level with the others. The spring must be a weak one inside the display. I am hesitant to spray any type of lubricant inside the back spring.

 

[Badgerdogmomma]

Crosscurrent S with the 12.8ah battery.

 

[Alex M]

Wow, I listed the bikes that seem most popular and the first results I receive are from the other category. Thanks!

I wonder what was the source for the list of "most popular". There is probably no comprehensive and unbiased data on this.

Besides, "model" rather than "company" would make more sense to me, as a consumer. Dealers/manufacturers could have a different view, though.

 

[mams99]

Pedego - Stretch

 

[keithd]

I wonder what was the source for the list of "most popular". There is probably no comprehensive and unbiased data on this.

Besides, "model" rather than "company" would make more sense to me, as a consumer. Dealers/manufacturers could have a different view, though.

What I was looking at is marketing and the number of post on this forum. Radpower, Juiced, and Volt seem to be all over the internet as those side ads. The number of post on these sub-forums is high as well. I am still trying to decide of course we keep getting hit with snow so I have a little time still.

 

[Alex M]

Radpower, Juiced and Volt are all very-very budget models, doesn't surprise me.

Most commuters on ebikes on the streets of my town (and there are NOT too many, despite relatively mild climate), - are unknown Chinese imports that are cheaper yet. Local Craigs is full of it. Brands/models come and go like flood waters in spring. Volt looks like some Volvo, in comparison

 

[keithd]

@Alex M

So very true

 

[John from Connecticut]

@John from Connecticut

Thank you, I actually did just that tried two bikes both were, however, Haibikes at my LBS (2 hours away) which were recommended and neither jumped out at me.

What I was looking at is marketing and the number of post on this forum. Radpower, Juiced, and Volt seem to be all over the internet as those side ads. The number of post on these sub-forums is high as well. I am still trying to decide of course we keep getting hit with snow so I have a little time still.

Hello KeithD, As mentioned prior, I get the whole research thing ( I'm a techie ) , but buying an e-bike isn't a science project and I don't mean that unkindly... Reading these forums, polling folks for their opinion is fun, informative, but it shouldn't be the driving force in making a decision. I get the sense it is or at least is a major component in the decision making process. To me an e-bike is personal based on ones needs, desires, budget etc. and not anonymous 'data' A thought, there is no perfect e-bike, it hasn't been built yet.

Key points in making a decision. $$$, style and type of riding which should dictate the type bike, dealing with a LBS or purchase via Internet.
Based on your posts I think you'd be best served buying from a LBS....Good luck.


John from CT

 

[ROJA]

You can count the number of posts per sub forum. It will give you an idea of what’s popular. The numbers reflect the US market.

I came here to post the same thing! Maybe start with the handful that have over 1,000 posts?

At a glance, it looks like the top few are:

Easy Motion -- 4k
Juiced -- 3.8k
Rad Power -- 5.4k
Sondors -- 3.8k
Specialized -- 4.4k
Stromer -- 7k

 

[Leandro]

R&M Tinker Touring HS

 

[Asher]

I came here to post the same thing! Maybe start with the handful that have over 1,000 posts?

At a glance, it looks like the top few are:

Easy Motion -- 4k
Juiced -- 3.8k
Rad Power -- 5.4k
Sondors -- 3.8k
Specialized -- 4.4k
Stromer -- 7k

Juiced has a much bigger share if you look at recent posts, eg within the last year.

 

[keithd]

@Asher you are correct just the number of responses here are showing that at the moment Juiced is ahead. I am looking to build a bike as well as comparing OEM bikes and it is hard to beat what Tora is offering for the price. I am finding it hard to put a package together like the Crosscurrent S with similar components for the money.

 

[Asher]

@Asher you are correct just the number of responses here are showing that at the moment Juiced is ahead. I am looking to build a bike as well as comparing OEM bikes and it is hard to beat what Tora is offering for the price. I am finding it hard to put a package together like the Crosscurrent S with similar components for the money.

If you're after a fatbike, there are a few competitive options, but for the CCS, you're right, there's nothing remotely competitive... which is pretty bizarre. If you want a big battery there's... a $6k Stromer. That's about it.

Juiced offers great value, on a bike that was designed to be electric, unlike any hub kit conversion. You may want to swap out some parts on the CCS (commonly, tires, handlebars, fork, grips, derailleur, depending on the person) though.

 

[Chris Hammond]

@Asher you are correct just the number of responses here are showing that at the moment Juiced is ahead. I am looking to build a bike as well as comparing OEM bikes and it is hard to beat what Tora is offering for the price. I am finding it hard to put a package together like the Crosscurrent S with similar components for the money.

Keith I was in your same boat. I researched the hell out of building an ebike. Yes it is possible to build one for roughly $2000 that would actually have a bigger battery. You are building on a platform that wasn't designed to be a high speed ebike. I finally ordered a CCS. If I ever get it, I'm sure I'll be thrilled.

 

[Robert Bjoraker]

Stromer ST2 S
Optibike 800Li