Luna X2 - First Impressions

This should probably be a new thread, but I don't know how to start one.
Front brake problem with,

Luna Cycle X2 with DNM Suspension.



I only have about 400 miles on my new, Dec 20 2021 picked up on Dec 22 2021. My front brake was not stopping as well as it had earlier, so I ordered a set of replacement pads. When I removed the front caliper, I found that the pads were wearing in a very unusual way (see photo #1). Checking the front suspension and the brake mounting, I found that the adapter that Luna (or Chinese manufacture) had used is very incorrect! The stock mounting had the pads only half engaged on the rotor! It seems with this wear pattern ( my brakes were starting to fade because the top of the pads where making contact with each other, and not fully on the rotor! A quick look at Amazon and I had picked out a suitable new adapter (Amazon has several that look like would work). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D9KPL7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1, is the one I used. The rest of pictures show how I came to this conclusion.
 

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This should probably be a new thread, but I don't know how to start one.

Just go to whichever forum and click ‘post thread’ in the upper right. No problem though…

Front brake problem with,
Luna Cycle X2 with DNM Suspension.

I only have about 400 miles on my new, Dec 20 2021 picked up on Dec 22 2021. My front brake was not stopping as well as it had earlier, so I ordered a set of replacement pads. When I removed the front caliper, I found that the pads were wearing in a very unusual way (see photo #1). Checking the front suspension and the brake mounting, I found that the adapter that Luna (or Chinese manufacture) had used is very incorrect! The stock mounting had the pads only half engaged on the rotor! It seems with this wear pattern ( my brakes were starting to fade because the top of the pads where making contact with each other, and not fully on the rotor! A quick look at Amazon and I had picked out a suitable new adapter (Amazon has several that look like would work). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D9KPL7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1, is the one I used. The rest of pictures show how I came to this conclusion.

Yeah, looks like a # of the first DNM batch went out with the wrong mount - Luna replaced the wrong mounts for fee AFAIK if you contacted them.
Not a great thing and good you caught it, as the unworn parts of the pads coul eventually reach each other, reducing actual braking.

Heard but cant confirm definitively Luna’s doing additional QA and test rides before shipping, probably as a result of things like this.
 
Built a new wheelset - DT350 Hybrid rear, DT 240S Hybrid front, ARC35s, Alpine III spokes. Chose the ARC35s mainly as they're asymmetric so I wind up at 84R/88% NDS tension vs DS (compared to ~60-something on non-asym wheels). WTB makes an interesting beefy asym 'emtb' wheel, but it's heavy (the HTZ i35 - https://www.wtb.com/collections/e-bi...oducts/htz-i35).

The Arcs have an interesting history, guess they came from Eaton, then bought by RaceFace. Original rims used a different compound so were on the soft side by some claims, but newer ARCs are using 6069 like most others. I went ahead and used some Sapim MG washers on this build, just for a little bit of added protection - they definitely made the wheel build take longer, but good to go. Amusingly, I did weigh the ARC40 wheelset I pulled off, but managed to forget to weigh the new one, will have to wait until next time they're off the bike. Tubeless, of course. There's also an ARC 'HD' which is a bit beefier, but only comes in i30. I can already notice the difference in sidewall shape between the ARC40 and ARC35 with the same 2.8" tires, so don't want to drop down to an i30 with 2.8" tires.

I picked the ARC35 primarily due to the rating difference - ARC40 is rated as Trail and All-Mountain, while the 35 is Trail/AM/Enduro, so went for that 'happy medium' in still wanting to build a near bulletproof wheelset (hopefully - if not, will move to the HTZ i35). Chose the DT Hybrids mostly for grins - they have 2.8mm hub-side spoke holes meant for wider elbow-end spokes, larger bearings, etc. - there doesn't seem to be all that much load difference vs DT 350/240 Classics, but there is some, so why not? It was kind of a bitch finding components, thus the 240 Hybrid front, but got it close in price to a 350 Hybrid front... had to order from overseas, but it ironically came in quicker than my US-ordered DT350 Hybrid rear.

A little bit of 'fun' in the spoke order had a handful of too long spokes, but I had ordered some spares, thankfully.

32 hole front and rear - considered 36H for the rear, but the combination of 36H hubs and rims I'd consider just isn't really stable/there consistently yet, let alone trying to order them. Should be fine, but we'll see.

Nice wheels. I also went on a search for better wheels.

I just ordered a custom DT Swiss wheelset myself from Custom Wheel Builder.

DT SWISS XM 521 27.5IN 35mm ID 32h RIM
DT SWISS 350 FRONT CENTERLOCK HUB
2022 - DT SWISS 350 REAR CENTERLOCK HUB (36T) w/Shimano Micro Spline 12spd
Switching over to Shimano centerlock rotors.

Then I ordered full Shimano Deore XT 12 speed groupset. The cassette is the 10-45T 12 speed.

Then picked out a new set of tires. Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.8 front and Big Betty 2.8 rear.

Now I have to wait for everything to arrive...
 
Nice wheels. I also went on a search for better wheels.

I just ordered a custom DT Swiss wheelset myself from Custom Wheel Builder.

DT SWISS XM 521 27.5IN 35mm ID 32h RIM
DT SWISS 350 FRONT CENTERLOCK HUB
2022 - DT SWISS 350 REAR CENTERLOCK HUB (36T) w/Shimano Micro Spline 12spd
Switching over to Shimano centerlock rotors.

Then I ordered full Shimano Deore XT 12 speed groupset. The cassette is the 10-45T 12 speed.

Then picked out a new set of tires. Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.8 front and Big Betty 2.8 rear.

Now I have to wait for everything to arrive...
Thanks. Huge 'yes' on the wait - I had components for the build coming in from all over.
Why switching rotor mount + going to Shimano XT from SRAM?
I keep wanting to hear real-world experience with 'Ultraglide' Shimano e-bike drivetrain but unobtanium...
 
2 weeks for the wheels to be built. So with new wheels I have an opportunity to get new hubs and the Shimano centerlocks look like as good as any time to switch. The new 2022 350 rear hub from Swiss have been updated to include 36T and a few other changes. Switching to Shimano drivetrain seems as good as anytime. I really want to try the 10-45T 12 speed cassette as I never use the 50T gear on the SRAM. After waiting for the Linkglide to come to the US and it not happening I decided it was not worth the wait. I am coming from Bontrager Line Comp 30 wheels which I have been running with Maxxis DHF and DHR tires. 30mm ID wheel and 2.8 tires are not an ideal match. I too had to find the drivetrain parts from many different online sources. All total it's $1,400 for everything.
 
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2 weeks for the wheels to be built. So with new wheels I have an opportunity to get new hubs and the Shimano centerlocks look like as good as any time to switch. The new 2022 350 rear hub from Swiss have been updated to include 36T and a few other changes. Switching to Shimano drivetrain seems as good as anytime. I really want to try the 10-45T 12 speed cassette as I never use the 50T gear on the SRAM. After waiting for the Linkglide to come to the US and it not happening I decided it was not worth the wait. I am coming from Bontrager Line Comp 30 wheels which I have been running with Maxxis DHF and DHR tires. 30mm ID wheel and 2.8 tires are not an ideal match. I too had to find the drivetrain parts from many different online sources. All total it's $1,400 for everything.
Doh on Ultraglide - you got it though, meant Linkglide. ;)

Yeah, I'm not convinced on the 'needing' the 50T either, but have been considering moving to 10S, or 11S Linkglide if it ever shows up. Didn't realize you'd swapped wheels, but yeah, the 2.8 width I'm comparing between my last wheelset (ARC40, i40s) and the i35s I just built - definitely wouldn't want then on i30 rims, IMO.

Let me know how you like the XT drivetrain vs the SRAM. I keep having second/third thoughts RE: next drivetrain or just stick it out with the 12S SRAM etc.
 
Had an exciting day last weekend at my local trail. Met 3 guys and a girl at the trailhead riding Specialized Levo and Levo SL bikes. We went for a 2.5 hour ride (18 miles) and road a mix of xc and tech trails. Alot of sandy conditions and it had just rained the night before. I have never rode with a pack of Levos and was excited to see where the Luna X2 (non Ludi) matched up. I had remove the DNM suspension and run Fox 38 and Fox Float X. Well the Levos started out the ride in Turbo and I had to figure out which power level I needed to match their speed. I have configure the controller for 9 power levels. I found level 5 was my sweet spot to match the pace of the other 4 bikes. I found the X2 was not quite a poppy as the Levo SL. The Turbo Levo's were more of a closer match on our ride. Their Levo bikes were all stock with stock tires. I had a slight advantage since I ride the thoes trails a lot and knew which gears to select. It was amazing to finally see the level I was at when riding with the Levos.
 
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I was able to use a rainy day on Saturday to put all new parts on the X2. The Shimano XT M8100 SGS Rear Derailleur I had to back out the B screw all the way for proper shifts. The derailleur M8100 SGS is listed for the 10-50 cassette but I read it would also work. The proper part was RD-M8100-GS for the 10-45. Anyway it seems to shift good.

I didn't realize until after it was all together the Shimano HG+ chain CN-M8100 is "special" and not compatible with most chainrings! No one makes a 38T 104 bcd Shimano HG+ chainring! Wolf Tooth makes a 36t chainring for HG+. So for now I am running the stock SRAM 38t chainring which seems to work.
 
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Just completed installing the Wolf Tooth GeoShift Angle Headset (-1 deg) on the X2. I was able to install it myself and just came back from a ride. I was not sure I would notice any difference changing to -1 degree slacker. But I was surprised that the ability to maneuver tight technical sections was actually easier. On the downhill and drops it felt pretty good and was inspiring confidence. I would recommend anyone with a Luna X2 looking for a slacker setup to consider the offset headset. I measured the fork angle before and it was 66 degrees and now is 65 degrees.

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Last weekend I had a failure of the Bafang torque sensor (non Ludi). It failed by providing uncontrolled assistance then no assistance. Now it has stopped providing assistance while pedaling. Throttle still works and no error codes. I connected the BESST and was able to read the controller. I reflashed the controller firmware and did a calibrate without issue. I opened a ticket with Luna. It was 3 months ago Luna repaired the motor clutch after it was allowing the pedal to slip.

Update:
The M600 controller went bad. Purchasing the upgraded v2 Ludi controller and Luna is sending it all back ready to go. One important difference is the battery pack on the X2 non ludi v2 bikes have a lower rated (battery) BMS of 35 amps. Limiting the max amps in the VESC app to 34amps is still good for around 1,000 watts which is plenty for my riding style. I'll call it Ludi Lite?
 
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Last weekend I had a failure of the Bafang torque sensor (non Ludi). It failed by providing uncontrolled assistance then no assistance. Now it has stopped providing assistance while pedaling. Throttle still works and no error codes. I connected the BESST and was able to read the controller. I reflashed the controller firmware and did a calibrate without issue. I opened a ticket with Luna. It was 3 months ago Luna repaired the motor clutch after it was allowing the pedal to slip.
So - that sucks. Did you buy the part and install, send(ing?) the motor back to Luna, or ?
 
Just for some background, I grew up riding dirt bikes/motorcycles, have wrenched on cars and motorcycles most of my life, have ridden off-road (dirt bike and dual-sports) across a couple of foreign/non-US countries - not an expert, but I don't mind getting dirty or a bit of air time. My wife and I rented ebikes to do some sightseeing on an overseas trip, and as we both really liked it, got her a (used) Bosch powered Gazelle and a FS BBHSD for myself when we got back. We ride a mixture of single track, double track, and some road, with the primary goals being having together time and also getting into better shape. I'm also hoping to convince her to shift to an eMTB over time, and I'd like to get into harder single track.

Looking around, most of the suitable bikes out there were heavy pigs, which I had one already - check the weights and make sure it's with battery, and most FS bikes with Bafang motors (can't cope with 20mph limits, although some now do 28mph limits and Orbea Wild for example would be a nice bike if it increased the limit to 28mph..) are all at, approaching, or even over 80lbs or so, many of them being fat bikes. There's the WattWagon Hydra which as an Innotrace programmable controller and an Ultra motor, with a carbon fiber frame, which should be an awesome ride, but some unknown waiting time and it can get spendy quickly. There are a few Frey models (M600, EX) which look to be pretty solid bikes, but assume 6 month wait from order, metal frames, and rather heavy, as well as no guarantee of a UART programmable Ultra motor. The Sondors Rockstar is 80#. There are others - I looked at more than 20 different (although some had same frame, minor component differences) bikes.

I had waffled for a while between Ultra and M600, and also weight, while noting both - I LIKE power as well as programmability, but I'd moved to mostly using my BBHSD bike on level 2 of 9 for a majority of rides, so had been leaning towards the M600 option, as well as getting away from fat tire bikes (fun IMO, but already have suspension, and not beach riding in general).

I wound up with a spreadsheet of parts to build my own, and prices. FWIW, Ultra or M600 based, I was right around $5K USD plus or minus a bit depending on paint myself vs cerakote, Pike Ultimate vs other options, etc..but was hard-pressed in current pricing + frame/motor/shipping to get much lower. I was ready after many hours of convo with China suppliers, to go order my parts, but I recalled some mention somewhere on the Luna forum for 'there may be a Black Friday surprise' and I had it in my head it was a batch of X1s, so waited...

I woke up on Black Friday, checked the site, and saw the X2 and Z1, and the X2 was nearly exactly what I'd been looking for - but with a programmable controller option. Some not-entirely-quick searching to make sure this was a 'real' controller, and quickly found one of the controller developers, who has worked on motor controllers on the VESC platform, including his own hardware, since at least 2014 or so. VESC is a broad family of both hardware controllers and a well-developed mature software suite for programming, log analysis etc. In short - this is the real deal/not a hack, and an earlier variant was released early 2021 for the BBHSD with some fairly impressed users. It also allows for data-logging, something I found extremely useful in tuning car ECUs, and you can do some cool stuff with the data.

At 6'0" I waffled a bit on frame size, as the X2 is essentially an E10 Dengfu frame or a slightly modified one, aka 'the Cheeb' on YouTube and emtb forums, and I could find people of the same height (6'0") both saying they wish they had gone with the medium as well as the large frame is great. I have a plan percolating in my head to eventually convince my wife, who has a Bosch-powered Gazelle, to move to an eMTB at some point, while she flat out refuses to ride my fat BBSHD bike... so said screw it and ordered a medium. Apparently the mediums were out of stock within hours, and the rest not long after, although I think they now have some DNM suspension bikes ordered for ~Jan delivery.

The bike showed up around 10 days later. After seeing sooo much drama and people handing out cash now to 'hope' they get a bike in 6-9 months, well - I'll just say it, that was rather nice.. that was actually one of the reasons I'd considered just building one fully from parts - uncertain delivery dates with most vendors at the moment. It was well packed, zip-ties, foam and cardboard, but somehow I still managed to have a frame scuff...looks like not even breaking the surface, which is good, but it's there..

View attachment 109098
View attachment 109099

Putting it together was pretty simple. I spent some time checking fastener tightness (almost all were good), adjusting the controls, and pulling the seat post out to apply carbon assembly paste and set for my height. I put on my pedals and a front Hope floating rotor (mostly for the bling as will be going for a black/red scheme.. but SRAM rotors are also known for getting kind of loud..), which needed a bit of filing on the caliper to clear the rivets, but not bad.

The overall bike in Medium, for me, seemed to be a good fit, which was a relief - including the reach. I may eventually replace the dropper with a longer one, as I did have to raise the seat post a few inches (still well above min insertion). The controls out of the box were kind of wonky, so re-arranged them to suit, with the power, then brake and then throttle from the outside in on the left, and brake, shifter, dropper outside in on the right. Yes, the throttle lever is a bit on the high side, but I don't want the throw on it to tap the bike's power button. I may file the width down or just try a different throttle on it.

View attachment 109102
The brakes are SRAM G2 R - 200mm front and 180mm rear. They seem to be 2 finger levers although I may be wrong (used similar on dual-sports and dirt bikes), and nicely they have the tool-less adjustment for lever reach, although realistically this is something you play with for initial setup and then don't touch much until pads are well worn in most cases..

Overall quality seemed good - the frame feels pretty stout/beefy as does the rear suspension linkage. I'm a bit less sure on the paint - I think it's painted flat black, then Luna stickers applied, then clear-coated, but - not entirely sure..feels like it's somewhat easy to scratch but will see over time. The wheels were true if a bit on the heavy side, so aired them up for the time being to 26PSI F/R as they're tubed. A few loose spokes but nothing egregious. Checked derailleur but it was working well out of the box.

No manual, and some mystery stickers that are either for very lightweight frame protection (not thick or silicon/rubber, so definitely not for chainstay) or 'paint touchup'...or something. I used two of them to sit underneath my top tube/stem mount phone bag for now. They also include the component 'extras' e.g. a pair of bottomless tokens, etc. Charger looks to be the same as my Eunorau, and the battery is the same Reention style, just slightly longer than my pair of 14.5aH I have for the fat bike.

All together (minus still needing some seat adjustment)
View attachment 109100
There's an app for the LudiV2, and had some initial issues as it wouldn't install on the NOS cheap Android phone I got (Samsung A02), so reached out to the developer, grabbed some logs and we sorted for whatever reason the phone (64 bit CPU) had a 32-bit OS or libraries on it. He did a beta 32 bit build, and the app installed. I do still have an issue there, in I can connect over bluetooth to the controller, see the settings etc. but only when I have the phone right next to the controller. There are a few possibilities there and I have a different phone en route to rule out the phone before worrying about it further, as the bike is ride-able as is.

My initial rides were pretty short in my neighborhood so really couldn't tell much other than general feel of the bike. The motor with the new wider silent gear doesn't jump out as being much louder than my BBHSD. With a bunch of pedaling, I hit a bit over 30MPH, and may be able to get more, but this was really just a quick functional check, and as I am looking for assistance and a workout more than a moped/mini-motorcycle I don't use higher PAS levels or throttle but rarely.

It was somehow going to reach into the 70* range for the weekend, so we planned a 15-20 mile 'shakeout ride' which is a mixture of single and double track dirt and gravel, with some road and cycle paths threw in..nothing extreme but with some elevation changes, some of which are fairly long.

First time getting on the bike with power - the bike was applying power nearly as soon as I put my foot on the pedal, which was a bit of a surprise, but after that I think I'm already adjusted. My wife and I swapped bikes for a bit at the tail end of our ride - she actually liked it, which was great as she flat out refuses to even touch my fat BBHSD bike, and swapping back and forth, I think the torque sensor out of box may be a bit overly sensitive and the power 'ramp' is seemingly shorter, being a bit more progressive on the Bosch, but when moving, there isn't really much different - it's quite nice, IMO, and no 'run-on' that I've noticed...

The Power levels can be set by the B/W Bafang display to either 3, 5 or 9, and at least in 9 levels, they're split progressively into 11% increments, meaning going up a level will add 11% to max torque. Note with the LudiV2 controller, the Bafang display will show both speed limit and wheel size as 0 - those are handled via the app and controller but don't speak Bafang protocol so the display shows as 0 - with no ill effect.

Finally - a long ride
Yesterday came and was gloomy outside and kind of windy, but warm, so - time for a ride. :)
The ride was...spectacularly uneventful, which actually is what I was hoping for - the adjusted controls worked well, the bike felt quite a bit lighter than my fat bike, the brakes worked well, and nothing broke or stopped working. ;)
I'm going to need to play with the suspension a bit yet, as the fork is a bit 'chattery' on soaking up smaller imperfections like small rocks or gravel on hard-pack, probably low speed compression settings, but will tackle that a different day. I did notice a bit of flex on the Yari (35mm). All forks and wheels, even frames flex in reality under load..I expect I won't worry about it as it was pretty minor, just noting.

We did a 15 mile loop of mostly dirt and gravel, then another 5 miles around the park and just messing around. The feel of the bike is sooooo much nicer than my (reprogrammed but still Bafang controller) BBHSD. I was surprised when my wife agreed to try it, then I let her 'keep' it for a while, probably a few miles...

I was in PAS 2 the majority of the ride, I think up to 3 on and off on one section I internally think of as 'the long slog' which isn't really steep, but is a loong incline, and I set the bottom line of the display to show power.
I think I ended the ride at ~70-something percent battery, although I need to see if I can set this display to show voltage vs percentage, and I'm not sure if the V2 controller makes any improvements to percentage approximation or not. Need some more rides in to get a feel for 'real range.'

I'm not sure what I think of the (MTB Volt) seat. I'm not in pain today, but my immediate thought was it'd need to go. May give it a bit and see how it goes.

Overall, I'm quite happy with the bike. Some things I'll still do to 'make it mine,' and I need to sort the BT connectivity so I can play with the programming. I'll probably replace the WTB grips with Ergons or Ergon clones as it's what I'm used to. Assuming I can resolve the connectivity issue, all these changes are really personal preference vs 'must do items' in reality, and while the bike may not be for everyone, I'm pretty happy that I chose the X2 w/Ludi over the Z1 or other Ultra bike at this point in time.

For those considering between the two bikes, or even the M600 vs Ultra in general - a few have reported thermal cutoffs on the X2s. The M600 by comparison the the BBSHD or Ultra, is much smaller - less copper, smaller stator, basically it has less capability to absorb and disperse heat. If your style of riding is higher power levels or 'ride by throttle' then an Ultra is certainly a better fit, IMO. That isn't to say the M600 can't put out some power, as it can, but it can't do max/near max power indefinitely. As right now, I'm mainly playing in lower power levels and can't yet catalog (this includes temps), it's tough to get a better idea on how it performs thermally for me.

View attachment 109101
Are you confident you could ride this in rain or drive in rain if it was on a car rack. I have heard mixed things about how well the M600 resists water intrusion.
 
The 3 plugs that power, provide speed sensor and controller I have added dielectric grease to the plugs to help keep moisture and water out. The plugs are IPX5 rated. The motor is not IP rated but is sealed. Best to accept IPX5 as the water-resistant level you can expect due to plugs. I have put the bike on my cars bike rack and ridden through hours of rain with not issues. Take the battery out before traveling. The battery is IPX6 rated. Reinstall the battery cover to keep water and dirt out while traveling. I use velcro to wrap around the battery cover and frame to secure if I think it will rain while driving. Also the LCD controller is IPX5 rated. I will put a plastic bag over the display with rubber band or zip tie to keep water out when traveling in the rain. Hope this helps.

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Are you confident you could ride this in rain or drive in rain if it was on a car rack. I have heard mixed things about how well the M600 resists water intrusion.
Amusingly, almost identical to what IOU said. I’ve got silicon/di-electric grease on connections and have been meaning to also heat-shrink the upper display connection. I yank the battery, and have a velcro neoprene wrap I put over it if doing a longer trip. I also put a dab of silicone grease in the frame cable ingress bracket up top - isn’t really permanent but will at least reduce any capillary/drip-down flow running down the cables. I wouldn’t mind finding a decent set of covers for longer trips (+ keeps eyes off of it more…), but no huge concerns short of a mass torrential downpour, I suppose.
 
The 3 plugs that power, provide speed sensor and controller I have added dielectric grease to the plugs to help keep moisture and water out. The plugs are IPX5 rated. The motor is not IP rated but is sealed. Best to accept IPX5 as the water-resistant level you can expect due to plugs. I have put the bike on my cars bike rack and ridden through hours of rain with not issues. Take the battery out before traveling. The battery is IPX6 rated. Reinstall the battery cover to keep water and dirt out while traveling. I use velcro to wrap around the battery cover and frame to secure if I think it will rain while driving. Also the LCD controller is IPX5 rated. I will put a plastic bag over the display with rubber band or zip tie to keep water out when traveling in the rain. Hope this helps.

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Thanks for the information. What type of wrap are you putting around the batter cover?
 
What I said about the dielectric grease don't use very much. I put too much on and it caused the motor to act up.
 
Amusingly, almost identical to what IOU said. I’ve got silicon/di-electric grease on connections and have been meaning to also heat-shrink the upper display connection. I yank the battery, and have a velcro neoprene wrap I put over it if doing a longer trip. I also put a dab of silicone grease in the frame cable ingress bracket up top - isn’t really permanent but will at least reduce any capillary/drip-down flow running down the cables. I wouldn’t mind finding a decent set of covers for longer trips (+ keeps eyes off of it more…), but no huge concerns short of a mass torrential downpour, I suppose.
What type of Velcro neoprene wrap are you using? Something commercially available?
 
New install of a modified Nukeproof Mega Alloy 275 Chain Stay on the X2. I had to make a few cuts but it did fit well. The double sided tape included sticks well. I added a bead of RTV sealer around the edges to keep the water out. Not bad for $10 bucks.

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