Lubing the Chain
- Thread starter Cowlitz
- Start date
E-Wheels
Well-Known Member
Maybe they used this one https://www.wd40.com/products/wd-40-bike-all-conditions-lube/
Mass Deduction
Active Member
I would argue that spraying anything on a bicycle is a no-no. If something needs cleaning, wipe it down on the bike with a rag, or remove it from the bike for more thorough cleaning if necessary. Sprays can get all over the place, including potentially into bearings and cable housing for example.
Yes, you additionally don't want to use WD40's non-bike product as it's a solvent, not a lubricant.
There isn't much danger if I can't get access to the chain. The manual isn't much help for me. I'll have to set the bike up on something, and figure out how the chain guard comes off. I've only got 300 miles on the bike so far so it should still be OK.
It's such a nice bike to ride, but a PITA to work on. The nearest bike shop is a 40 mile drive over a mountain pass so I'd like to figure things out.
It's such a nice bike to ride, but a PITA to work on. The nearest bike shop is a 40 mile drive over a mountain pass so I'd like to figure things out.
Mickey Kelly
New Member
It would have. been nice if they had used a belt drive instead of chain drive.
TomD
Well-Known Member
I've read that WD40 behaves more like a solvent (not really a lubricant) so would help clean your chain, but is a poor recommendation for lube (which you'd want to apply after cleaning). I picked up one of these to clean my chain (many other brands selling similar products):
www.jensonusa.com
Foundation Bike Chain Cleaning Kit | Jenson USA
www.jensonusa.com
Browneye
Well-Known Member
WD is very good for cleaning with a cotton rag, a square foot of old terry towel is good, easy to come by. Then a reputable chain lube applied and excess wiped off to prevent from collecting dirt/dust. My go-to has been Tri-Flo for a couple of decades, but there are newer and more expensive options. Chain wear is measured by stretch. Clean and lube when it gets dirty.
Most motorcycle chains have sealed links and don't really need lube - just cleaning them gives nearly the same life as adding chain lube. Generally a wax type of lube is used - a spray where the carrier solvent evaporates. Some bicycle lubes are similar. But bike chain links are not sealed, so a very light oil is recommended.
An enclosed guard needs to be removed to gain access, so they are not as popular as one might think. But will help with dirt and dust collecting which is what makes them turn black.
Most motorcycle chains have sealed links and don't really need lube - just cleaning them gives nearly the same life as adding chain lube. Generally a wax type of lube is used - a spray where the carrier solvent evaporates. Some bicycle lubes are similar. But bike chain links are not sealed, so a very light oil is recommended.
An enclosed guard needs to be removed to gain access, so they are not as popular as one might think. But will help with dirt and dust collecting which is what makes them turn black.
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Thanks Browneye, your comments are helpful. I do not use WD40 for the reasons stated. Rather, I use simple green to clean the chain, wash the chain and then use Tri-Flo as you suggest. If you have the chain guard, how often must the chain be cleaned if your riding is on road? Mark
Browneye
Well-Known Member
Simple green is a good cleaner and degreaser. Definitely more user friendly to the skin - wd is primarily kerosene. We always liked WD for chains cuz it provides lubrication by itself. In fact, some of the guys that ran sealed chains ONLY cleaned with WD, never actually lubing their chain. They got the same chain and sprocket life as those that did use chain lube. Rather interesting. Oring chains retain the lube inside the rollers - bicycle chains do not, and the simple green cleaner provides zero lubrication - so if it strips lube out of the pins and oil does not get back in there, it runs dry. And why you should not soak a bike chain in gas or degreaser, unless you're going to soak it in oil afterward. What a mess. LOL
You should be able to go at least 500 miles, perhaps a thousand. As long as it doesn't dry out or get caked with dirt, inside a guard it should stay pretty clean. Primarily the lube is for the roller pins, but also the links where they meet the chain ring cogs. I would check it at 300 and 500 miles.
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steve_rolfeca
New Member
Fixed that for ya.... ;-)
