Looking at the Rize RX for a commute bike, have questions

Justin Fischer

Active Member
After discovering the Rize RX, and having a similar set of features compared to a Biktrix for thousands less, I'm pretty much sold on it. However, I do have some questions for current owners.

Is the default battery good enough for a strong 20 miles a day commuting? Some big hills on my route where I'd need all the power.
Is there anything you would do or replace with better components right off the bat? Planning to replace the tires with Marathon Plus or similar immediately.
Should I be prepared to grease the motor day 1?
Should I replace the wheelset? DT Smith has a variety of e-mtb options, but I'm not sure what would fit.
Does this kind of display show the bike's power output?
What's the typical output and speed you get in PAS 1?

Anything else I should know?
 
I'm not seeing the Rize RX (w/Bafang M620) on the website any more?

I have a late '01 model, love it (after dumping the fat tires for 2.8"), but I'm not using it to commute.
 
I'm not seeing the Rize RX (w/Bafang M620) on the website any more?

I have a late '01 model, love it (after dumping the fat tires for 2.8"), but I'm not using it to commute.
 
I have the current version of the RX (2022) and love it. Got it Jan. ‘22 and put about 2,500 miles on it this past year. Here in WI, In Utah, Oregon, NM and MO. Riding up Jeep trails in the Rockies makes you feel like you are on a funicular train- it just keeps pulling. It has plenty of battery for 20 miles between charges (your daily commute). I have always gotten 35-45 miles before getting too close to outta juice. And, since it has a 3 amp charge (many ebikes settle for 2 amps), it charges fully in about 5 hours. Even in PAS1 the thing has tons of power. Dunno what you mean when you ask about output and speed in PAS 1. Power use will rise or fall depending upon effort (how hard you pedal, how steep the grade) whatever PAS you are in. I use mostly PAS1 for all trail and road riding. I only use higher PAS or throttle when climbing steep or long grades. In fact, if I could change anything, it would be to have an adjustment for even less assist to extend range more. But that is a minor quibble. It’s features, components and performance make it a great value, even more so now that it is down to 2,699.00 US. As for greasing the motor, I though about doing that for a long time after getting mine, because it is a bit louder motor (the price you pay for gobs of power), but I decided it wasn’t worth The effort. The bike is not loud, just louder than other ebikes with Bosch or hub motors. The display shows speed and power output at same time. May I ask why you are considering a change to the wheels?
 
I have the current version of the RX (2022) and love it. Got it Jan. ‘22 and put about 2,500 miles on it this past year. Here in WI, In Utah, Oregon, NM and MO. Riding up Jeep trails in the Rockies makes you feel like you are on a funicular train- it just keeps pulling. It has plenty of battery for 20 miles between charges (your daily commute). I have always gotten 35-45 miles before getting too close to outta juice. And, since it has a 3 amp charge (many ebikes settle for 2 amps), it charges fully in about 5 hours. Even in PAS1 the thing has tons of power. Dunno what you mean when you ask about output and speed in PAS 1. Power use will rise or fall depending upon effort (how hard you pedal, how steep the grade) whatever PAS you are in. I use mostly PAS1 for all trail and road riding. I only use higher PAS or throttle when climbing steep or long grades. In fact, if I could change anything, it would be to have an adjustment for even less assist to extend range more. But that is a minor quibble. It’s features, components and performance make it a great value, even more so now that it is down to 2,699.00 US. As for greasing the motor, I though about doing that for a long time after getting mine, because it is a bit louder motor (the price you pay for gobs of power), but I decided it wasn’t worth The effort. The bike is not loud, just louder than other ebikes with Bosch or hub motors. The display shows speed and power output at same time. May I ask why you are considering a change to the wheels?

How fast do you find yourself going in PAS 1 on flat terrain? Have you tried to see how fast you can go in 5 on flat terrain? I've heard the wheelset is one of the cheaper components is all.
 
With a full battery on level ground, I have easily gotten to 30 mph on throttle only. Pedaling and throttle in PAS1 on level ground I have gotten to 36mph. I have actually never tried to see how fast I can pedal in highest PAS. Point of clarification- the bike comes with 5 PAS levels, but you can change to 9 levels by fiddling on the display. I did that, but all it accomplishes is splitting up the power assist levels. It does not broaden the range of assist at all. Wheels are nothing special, but they get the job done. Plenty sturdy for the bike. I have had no dings or out of true problems yet (knock on wood). If you want to go tubeless, you’d need to change, but other than that I cant see changing that part of the bike. The fork, although fine for medium rough trails, might be worth an upgrade. It is a Suntour with 120mm of travel. I have thought about upgrading that, but then I get glazed eyes when I start checking prices on actual alternatives. It really is fine as-is.
 
Just re-read your last post and mebbe I misunderstood about speed in PAS 1. When my wife and I ride we generally go 18-20 mph, on 30-40 mile jaunts. This Fall we did a 110 mile section of the KATY trail in MO over two days. Carried our stuff in panniers and spent a night in hotel along the trail. Was great. My bride has a Ride1Up Lmtd step-through. Also a very good bike, for a hub motor with a cadence sensor.
 
How smooth do you find the motor kick-on with the torque sensor? I've heard there's a setting in the display to make it smoother?
 
Very smooth. Much more than a torque sensor. Because of the power you do have to be mindful of proper shifting. You don’t want to take off from a standstill in top gear, don’t shift when pedaling hard or using throttle, etc. Good bike shifting habits are key to reducing chain and cog wear, as well as Lessing risk of blowing out chain. Both real possibilities with this motor. I don’t know about changing torque sensor setttings. As far as I am aware you cannot muck about with that stuff on this motor. AHicks, a very knowledgeable poster on this site may chime in on this, as he seems very in tune with what can and cannot be adjusted on the MD620 Bafang Ultra motor. The bike does have automatic power shut off when shifting or applying brakes too.
 
How do you find the noise on it? I'm honestly considering the MD because it's a BBS02, the deal right now has a free extra battery. I'm not sure the 750w vs 1000w would be that big of a difference
 
Hmmmm. Noise not bad at all on RX. MD with extra battery for 2399 is good. But. Smaller battery. No suspension seatpost. Lesser derailleur and only 7spd , not 9. Non-adjustable stem. Much less power. Also, BBS02 an older design. I went through the same mental process on these two models and those are the details that convinced me, for me, that the RX was the better option. Have not regretted my choice. Good luck figuring out what’s best for you.
 
Hmmmm. Noise not bad at all on RX. MD with extra battery for 2399 is good. But. Smaller battery. No suspension seatpost. Lesser derailleur and only 7spd , not 9. Non-adjustable stem. Much less power. Also, BBS02 an older design. I went through the same mental process on these two models and those are the details that convinced me, for me, that the RX was the better option. Have not regretted my choice. Good luck figuring out what’s best for you.

It's a close call, but I am agreeing that the extra power now and an battery upgrade in the future will be worth it.
 
How is the shifting on the RX? Does the cut-off seem to work well? Do you have to consciously stop putting out power before shifting?
 
The cut off works well, but…. You do need be mindful when shifting. This is a take care of the gear thing, If you want your chain and rear cassette (especially the highest/smallest cog) to last, it is good to try to avoid putting massive torque loads on them when shifting. I have gotten in the habit of just letting off on my effort just before shifting. The shifting itself, if your derailleur is properly adjusted, is quite smooth. At the end of the year my rear cassette was still in good shape, but I did need a new chain due to stretch from the high torque. Course, so did my wife’s Lmtd even with a 750 watt hub motor. High power ebikes, if equipped with chains, just put more stress on them. I’ll happily put a $30 chain on every year in exchange for the many benefits of a high power, smooth motor.
 
Took both bikes in for end of year tune ups at my LBS and the owner told me so. No slipping or missed shifts before that, he simply used a measuring tool and told me chain was stretched enough to warrant switching out. Prolly could have kept the original for another year, but I felt like putting the bike into tip top shape before onset of Northern WI Winter.
 
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