LMT’D controller replacement pictures

[grahamB]

' I received my replacement controller due to Error 21 for my 2nd Ed gen LMT’D this week... just installed it in less than 15-20minutes but thought I would share some photos.
One tip: there are 4short screws and 1longer. The longer one is the one which is by itself at the base of the battery bracket. Installing this one first allowed for easy alignment and allowed manipulating the lock cylinder into place before installing other screws.

Replacement controller. Everything is silicon filled except yellow batt connector. For those looking to install lights, the two 2pin connectors grey/black would be used. The connectors are not used in stock config but could easily be used.
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[grahamB]

I did some initial tests .. so far it looks to have resolved issues. I’ll take a longer ride this afternoon once it warms up outside

update:Took a nice long ride with no issues. Love this bike. Awesome.

 

[CTYankee]

I wondered if there is a rev/assembly number that would allow us to spot a "problem" controller vs. the replacement? It looks like the one you removed is dated 07/2020 and the new one is 08/2020 but i don't know if that is conclusive.

 

[grahamB]

the 07/2020 date series were also the new controllers.. based on comments, I presume there seem to have been a handful of this date series that did not have the updated software settings. The 08/2020 that I received has the updated software configuration . These are programmable controllers as long as you have the proper cable interface and software. Not sure if it is actually a HW issue, however given the issues people were having with the update software or update cables, sending out an already updated controller is likely the easiest means to resolution.

 

[Ride_r]

I got a replacement, the old is dated 07/2020 and the new was 08/2020. Otherwise all the numbers were the same, it looked exactly the same. I think software is the most likely change. I think it's likely they had a typo or bad setting that wasn't caught before the bikes shipped.
The new one has been through 2 12+ mile rides, no cutouts, error codes, or other problems, so it seems to be fixed.

 

[Mike N.]

GrahamB did Ride1up ask you to ship back the old controller?

 

[grahamB]

GrahamB did Ride1up ask you to ship back the old controller?

Ride1up,specifically Kevin, has been really good at addressing this issue that was on a handful of the Lmtds. Customer satisfaction is the main goal and controller was expedited out to me internationally. No, was not requested back, nor due to shipping costs would it make sense.

Again thank you Kevin for standing behind your brand. I am loving my bike ! Only wish I had it all summer.

 

[Ride_r]

' I received my replacement controller due to Error 21 for my 2nd Ed gen LMT’D this week... just installed it in less than 15-20minutes but thought I would share some photos.
One tip: there are 4short screws and 1longer. The longer one is the one which is by itself at the base of the battery bracket. Installing this one first allowed for easy alignment and allowed manipulating the lock cylinder into place before installing other screws.

Replacement controller. Everything is silicon filled except yellow batt connector. For those looking to install lights, the two 2pin connectors grey/black would be used. The connectors are not used in stock config but could easily be used.
.View attachment 67333View attachment 67334



View attachment 67335View attachment 67336View attachment 67337View attachment 67338View attachment 67343

Did some research- the 2 connectors for lights are not meant to actually power lights. (The black and gray wires, there's 2.) They are for relays that will turn on externally powered lights. If you connect a light with too large a power draw, something in the controller quits and the lights no longer get power. (Which is probably intentional for safety.)
To actually operate main battery-powered lights from this controller, you need an XT60 splitter cable, then you can wire the lights (and switch and a fuse) into that. It will be at 48v, so you need lights that can handle that. The splitter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725QDTXY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1EEONYNGVV4GN&psc=1) and various LED lights are available on Amazon. To make life easier you probably should get an additional XT60 connector to plug into the splitter connector. Hiding the wiring in the downtube may be difficult, but I think you could at least get the splitter and connector inside, and run the wire out the existing grommet in the frame with all the other wiring.
You'l also have to run the wiring to the front light, and then run something to a rear light if you have one.
Obviously I've thought about doing this, but for now I think I'll stick with rechargeable lights until I get more adventurous, maybe I'll try it in the spring.

 

[Mike N.]

Maybe Ride1up will offer a kit in the future for lights if enough people ask. I have lights on my other electric bike and have only used them less then maybe 10 times in 3 years. I have a Sigma Karma Pro I purchased in 2012 and just snap that onto the handlebar if needed.

 

[grahamB]

Did some research- the 2 connectors for lights are not meant to actually power lights. (The black and gray wires, there's 2.) They are for relays that will turn on externally powered lights. If you connect a light with too large a power draw, something in the controller quits and the lights no longer get power. (Which is probably intentional for safety.)
To actually operate main battery-powered lights from this controller, you need an XT60 splitter cable, then you can wire the lights (and switch and a fuse) into that. It will be at 48v, so you need lights that can handle that. The splitter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725QDTXY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1EEONYNGVV4GN&psc=1) and various LED lights are available on Amazon. To make life easier you probably should get an additional XT60 connector to plug into the splitter connector. Hiding the wiring in the downtube may be difficult, but I think you could at least get the splitter and connector inside, and run the wire out the existing grommet in the frame with all the other wiring.
You'l also have to run the wiring to the front light, and then run something to a rear light if you have one.
Obviously I've thought about doing this, but for now I think I'll stick with rechargeable lights until I get more adventurous, maybe I'll try it in the spring.

Ride_R, can you share the sources you found showing the specs on the Black/Grey output wire. Did you have current and voltage specs. Im pretty sure we can find some lights with an integrated 12V control relay and then take the 48V directly off the battery via the splitter you indicated. When I get some time I start looking . In the meantime, please share any of the research materials you found.

 

[Ride_r]

Sorry I don't have anything in the way of specs, it was in some stuff I found on the Nanjing Lishui controllers. Not the same controller, but here's a link to the website: Nanjing Lishui web site
I also saw someone on a forum talking about wiring in lights to the connectors, but the lights died after a few hours. This was because they drew too much current from the controller, and a wire or a circuit board trace gave out. I can't figure out where I saw that, but it was very applicable.
The controller used by Ride1up does not appear on the Lishui Products page. All I know is it's a 48v Sine wave output, I believe it maxes at 50+ amps output. (Maybe 56 max, since the display lets you set output to 28A.)
Also, there's a helpful discussion on lighting over at: ElectricBike.com Forums. There's a crude diagram for adding a headlight, to add a tail light you can just splice it into the circuit, as long as the voltage isn't too high. (Wiring lights in series adds the required voltage- i.e. adding 2 lights that use 24v each equals 48v total. You can't exceed the battery's output voltage, and you need to remember there's some voltage sag after riding a while.)
The deal is, when you use the 'light' connectors on the controller, they don't provide full battery power, probably only something like 6 or 12 volts, and low current level. That's enough to run a relay but not to power a bright headlight- and definitely not enough to power head and tail lights. That's why you have to tap into the battery power directly and wire the lights/switch/fuse yourself. Because then you're using full battery power/current, you also need the fuse to prevent a wiring problem (short) from causing burnout in either the battery or the wiring. You also need the switch or you won't be able to shut off the lights.

 

[Mike N.]

Well I have correlated my motor shutting down with using PAS 3 or the throttle for long periods of heavy amp draw. Even though no fault codes show on my display, which still stays on when the motor shuts down, I usually wait a few minutes for things to cool down and then I'm off with power again.

Alexander at Ride1up is going to send me a new controller to address the issue.

GrahamB thank you for posting the controller replacement. It will come in handy.

Even with the damaged box I received, the missing crank bolt cap, the loose rear disc bolts and the bike shutting down indiscriminately, I really like my LMT'D. It is the best bang for the buck out there. Yesterday I went for a 34 mile ride. Could easily have done 40 miles on the battery.

 

[Mike N.]

I received my new controller today and installed it this evening. It seemed rather daunting but I got it all back together and have power. I had two long screws and 3 short screws. Go figure. The lock assembly was a pain in the butt so I put those two screws in loosely to the connector plate first and then wiggled it into the keyhole. My only problem now is the battery seats but does not lock. Something is slightly off so the lock doesn't click. I'm tired so I'll mess with it in the morning.

Interesting that the display held all my info including last trip and wheel size even after replacing the controller.

I'm just going to put this out there. I was looking at two other 750 watt bikes. The Dost Kope and the Juiced Crosscurrent X. One is a rear hub and one is a Mid drive and they both have 25 amp peak controllers if you check their specs. The LMT'D is a 22 amp controller. Dost is $2800.00 and the Juiced is $2500.00. So I went with the $1795.00 model. Is that why it looses power at times due to too much current? I don't know. But if the new controller does not seem to solve the problem I am tempted to purchase a 25 amp controller if all the connectors are the same.

I went to the company site that makes our controller https://www.lsdzs.com but did not see our controller.

I have a couple of steep long hills here that I know if I go up in PAS 3 of 1-3 it will shut down eventually. So I'll give the new controller a try soon.

 

[Mike N.]

I got out on the LMT'D today to test out the new controller. I took the controller back out since I tucked it in opposite of the video and then aligned the plastic sleeve and the battery locks into place now. I did a 19 mile trip up to the highest point on my side of town in PAS 3 (1-3) 10th gear and did not have a shut off pulling max watts. That was just one time so time will tell. If this corrects the random shutdown of the engine I will be very impressed with a bike I am already enjoying very much. I even like the stock seat. It works great with my bum. I have a 500 watt cadence sensor E-bike I have been riding for almost three years but the LMT'D is the first bike I usually go to now. Even though it's faster I have to work harder then my cadence sensor bike on the LMT'D.

My last concern is I think my rear tire is a bit out of round. I don't know if I over tightened the spokes or it came like that but it is only noticeable at a higher speed so it isn't pressing but something I'll have to take in since that is beyond my truing expertise.

 

[tlippy]

I bit the bullet and had my rear spokes tightened by a LBS.. I was OK WITH the fronts but the rears were too loose. Best $40 I've spent

 

[Mike N.]

I bit the bullet and had my rear spokes tightened by a LBS.. I was OK WITH the fronts but the rears were too loose. Best $40 I've spent

It is not the usual side to side motion but actually like a pogo stick feeling at high speeds.

 

[tlippy]

It is not the usual side to side motion but actually like a pogo stick feeling at high speeds.

I hope it's fixable. Now that I have my spokes in spec., I'll be able to tune them up myself

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Well I have correlated my motor shutting down with using PAS 3 or the throttle for long periods of heavy amp draw. Even though no fault codes show on my display, which still stays on when the motor shuts down, I usually wait a few minutes for things to cool down and then I'm off with power again.

Alexander at Ride1up is going to send me a new controller to address the issue.

GrahamB thank you for posting the controller replacement. It will come in handy.

Even with the damaged box I received, the missing crank bolt cap, the loose rear disc bolts and the bike shutting down indiscriminately, I really like my LMT'D. It is the best bang for the buck out there. Yesterday I went for a 34 mile ride. Could easily have done 40 miles on the battery.

Have you spun the hub yet ? Mine did. Not sure if it wasn't torqued properly (likely) or it's just a weak point.
I'm taking measures to assure it's the last time and I will post the results here when I finish - another story.
I discovered they included that splined tool for a reason, but you also need a proper puller to remove the pressed on crank arms (came that way in the box) - and BTW, the spline tool is such a piece of junk, I had to file the teeth to get it to fit.
About mile 30, I notice that the ring behind the sprocket was loosening, causing slop and the sprocket to wobble.
You must remove crank arm to get to that ring, so I ordered the tool and carefully tightened best I could, but after I rode bike 6 - 7 miles, it worked loose again. I tightened (using chain vice grips) and tried again. This time after no more than 4 miles it became loose enough to eat the chain and lock up between the sprocket and the guard - both badly bent.
I already planned to, so it gave me a good opportunity to replace the cheap 42 tooth chainring with a quality 48 tooth Narrow Wide type.
The Park Tool CWP-7 Crank Puller and chainring arrived. I completely disassembled, inspected and reassembled - torqued properly.
Silver lining is the new, *48 tooth Narrow Wide chainring is a big improvement.
-
!!! BEWARE !!! When I disassembled I found everything tight except that ring. It would have been overlooked by any shop. I check the bike every time I go out and it was not 'noticeably' (detectably) loose when I first put it together either.

* My calipers say 52> tooth will rub the frame.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

' I received my replacement controller due to Error 21 for my 2nd Ed gen LMT’D this week... just installed it in less than 15-20minutes but thought I would share some photos.
One tip: there are 4short screws and 1longer. The longer one is the one which is by itself at the base of the battery bracket. Installing this one first allowed for easy alignment and allowed manipulating the lock cylinder into place before installing other screws.

Replacement controller. Everything is silicon filled except yellow batt connector. For those looking to install lights, the two 2pin connectors grey/black would be used. The connectors are not used in stock config but could easily be used.
.View attachment 67333View attachment 67334



View attachment 67335View attachment 67336View attachment 67337View attachment 67338View attachment 67343

YES !!! Thank you for the information. Can you post the measurements of the controller ?

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Sorry I don't have anything in the way of specs, it was in some stuff I found on the Nanjing Lishui controllers. Not the same controller, but here's a link to the website: Nanjing Lishui web site
I also saw someone on a forum talking about wiring in lights to the connectors, but the lights died after a few hours. This was because they drew too much current from the controller, and a wire or a circuit board trace gave out. I can't figure out where I saw that, but it was very applicable.
The controller used by Ride1up does not appear on the Lishui Products page. All I know is it's a 48v Sine wave output, I believe it maxes at 50+ amps output. (Maybe 56 max, since the display lets you set output to 28A.)
Also, there's a helpful discussion on lighting over at: ElectricBike.com Forums. There's a crude diagram for adding a headlight, to add a tail light you can just splice it into the circuit, as long as the voltage isn't too high. (Wiring lights in series adds the required voltage- i.e. adding 2 lights that use 24v each equals 48v total. You can't exceed the battery's output voltage, and you need to remember there's some voltage sag after riding a while.)
The deal is, when you use the 'light' connectors on the controller, they don't provide full battery power, probably only something like 6 or 12 volts, and low current level. That's enough to run a relay but not to power a bright headlight- and definitely not enough to power head and tail lights. That's why you have to tap into the battery power directly and wire the lights/switch/fuse yourself. Because then you're using full battery power/current, you also need the fuse to prevent a wiring problem (short) from causing burnout in either the battery or the wiring. You also need the switch or you won't be able to shut off the lights.

Incorrect. You can see in photo he posted. This controller is "11 (Chinese) amps continuous - and a 22 (Chinese) amp max (burst_.
The Chinese overrate all their stuff (usually by half). The MXUS XF19 motor is rated to run (continuous) at 20amps. Add 15 - 20% more = 23 - 24amps continuous. The Max figures assuming the motor is at 100%, try 46 - 48amps.
Unless you want a hot controller, giving all it can all the time and burning out much, much quicker, you add a safety margin of 40ish% or so and you have a 60amp Peak controller.
I really like this bike a lot. It was well worth the money.
Personally, when something breaks I replace it with a stronger part - not the same parts that are the apparent weak link.
A decent quality 25amp, 36 - 52V controller is about $60 on alibaba.
A high end Phaserunner 50 - 96A, 20 - 90V as much $325.
In between are some nice, reliable 30A continuous 50A peak controllers at $180.
For the Ltd, I'll be researching and field testing various controllers over the next few months. Once that is complete, I'm changing to an MAC T8 motor and to the community I will report how to do that as well.
Thank you for the insight on installing lights !!!
F n' F