Lights on Haibike Trekking S 8.0 (and a lot of other stuff)

Hi all, first post.

I got my brand new Haibike S 8.0 (Yamaha system) with integrated lights a couple of days ago. I very soon realized that the light switch on the controller is deactivated by design as part of German regulations. The manual even says "does not function". Both lights, front and rear are always on. I find this a bit annoying as I am not from Germany but from Norway where this rule does not apply. -In daytime that is.

Is there a way to re-enable the light switch from the controller?
 
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I do not know the answer, but it is strange the way certain things do or do not work. I am in the USA and here the walk mode on Yamaha Haibikes is disabled, and to my knowledge there is no fix.
 
The lights use very little current and are a nice safety feature. I'd assume you have to ask the dealer about changing the programming, or see if there is a Norwegian software upgrade.
 
Same bike here (S 6.0). Lights use up 2% of the battery per hour according to my estimates. On a 2.5 hour trip that’s 5% of a 500Wh battery. Not much you can do at the software level. It’s proprietary hardware, and it’s programmed in there and locked down. I’ve left the lights as is for the moment. .


I found that when plucking out this cable on the picture, one disables all the lights. It has a snap-on plug that is easy to take off and back on again. I will cut this cable and put a small waterproof switch on it. Not the prettiest solution, but then I do not have to travel like a x-mas tree in broad daylight.

I will certainly keep an eye on the MT4s. I thought they were a bit spongy the day I got the bike.


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You can use a parallel copper cable and take it to the handlebar where you put the switch waterproof + 2 faston.

People think that the walk mode is an accelerator but it is wrong. The walk mode does not provide enough strength or torque for a rider, it only moves the weight of the pedelec at very low speed, as indicated by mode walk to carry in your hands.

Example.
You stop at a traffic light red.
You go down on foot and you use the pedestrian crossing where you use the walk mode,
and you make a change of direction and climb back to the asphalt.


you are a cyclist, you become a pedestrian and you are cyclists again.


You do not need to get to the roundabout to make the U-turn
 
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lights
That only happens in the s-pedelc for being motorcycle in legislation.


You can make that same hook near the drive unit. Cut one of the parallel cables of the light and join the terminals with your parallel cable that you take to the handlebar. But it requires disassembling
 
It should rattle sooner or later. The stays aren’t screwed or riveted to the front fender. They just click in. Sooner or later the plastic loosens and it makes a terrible noise.

Mine is not rattling (fingers crossed). I assume they designed it that way...along with the breakaway pieces at the other end...as a safety measure.
 
Look out for it after a couple of hundred miles.

Thanks for the heads-up. I'd better do something about it now already then instead of waiting for it to happen:) As I see no reason to ever undo that u-snap, I will just apply some glue / Tek 7 to it.
 
I will.
Did any of you try some studded tires on your Trekking? I see there is quite some clearance for up to approx 42mm wide tires including any protruding studs. But then none of the clips that hold the e-wires must fall of. That will lead to potential chafing from the studs. There really should be a better way to fasten the wires inside the mudguards.
I also foresee snow build-up inside them unless the winter roads are nice and compacted.

I have two Schwalbe Marathon Winter coming in the mail. If they do not work well on the Trekking, I will just put them on my other, not so much electrical cyclocross hybrid.
 
I figured out how to stop the wobble in the fender. It's pure bliss.

Basically, you take out the retaining clip in the fender, and then make a dampener with rubber. The dampener sits between the clip and the fender. I made mine with an older inner tube that I cut out. I did a rather sloppy job (shown below), but at least people will understand what I mean. :D

Might interest @Ravi Kempaiah as he had the same issue, and was discussed in another thread.


View attachment 20468

I just noticed this and I tried it. Now the rattle is gone. So relieved. Thank you so much @JayVee
 
I just got a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Winter for my S 8.0. The size is 700x40 and they fit quite nicely under the fenders with ample clearance. I would not however ride in deep snow, that might pack the fenders full.
Also notice the strip I used to secure the brake cable to the fork. That reduced vibrations from the brake quite noticeably.

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