Known Issues & Problems with Specialized Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[TS25]

Friends, a new experience. I'm transporting my Vado in my station-wagon car (for some reasons I cannot use the bike rack). Fancy how fantastic is to carry the torque wrench inside your car. The front wheel removed (the axle-thru system), I'm arriving at the route start point, just fasten the wheel with the torque wrench and off I go!

There might have been a pad spacer (linked picture shows the model I received) with the buying documents

Shimano BR-M445 Pad Spacer

Shimano BR-M445 disc brake caliper Pad Spacer. The following are an 'A' match which indicates that the parts are the same in materials, appearance, finish & size etc. MTB - Shimano BR-M575 - Shimano Alivio BR-M4050 - Shimano BR-M447 - Shimano BR-M446 - Shimano Acera BR-M3050 - Shimano BR-M395...

www.sjscycles.co.uk

which you should put between the brake pads during transport with the front wheel taken off. At least for a longer drive.

You use this pad spacer after installing new brake pads, too.

It helps to preserve the correct distance for when you insert the brake disc back in place.

 

[Sierratim]

There might have been a pad spacer (linked picture shows the model I received with the buying documents)

Shimano BR-M445 Pad Spacer

Shimano BR-M445 disc brake caliper Pad Spacer. The following are an 'A' match which indicates that the parts are the same in materials, appearance, finish & size etc. MTB - Shimano BR-M575 - Shimano Alivio BR-M4050 - Shimano BR-M447 - Shimano BR-M446 - Shimano Acera BR-M3050 - Shimano BR-M395...

www.sjscycles.co.uk

which you should put between the brake pads during transport with the front wheel taken off. At least for a longer drive.

You use this pad spacer after installing new brake pads, too.

It helps to preserve the correct distance for when you insert the brake disc back in place.

My local LBS provided these spacers with our Vados. I clip it in when I remove either wheel to prevent the hydraulic pistons from being over extended if I were to inadvertently squeeze the brake lever. To install new pads I use a piston press like the Park Tool PP-1.2 . As the pads wear the pistons extended further into the caliper. They need to be pushed back into place to provide a wide enough gap for the rotor when installing new pads.

 

[usammartin]

Good day,
My wifes bike battery 2018 Vado, after charging and disconnected from charger, displays all green indicator lights when I turn on. Normal.
The bike display illuminates, then goes dark except for only the lowest battery cell illuminates and pulses on and off while all the green battery lights remain on steady.
I swapped battery to identical Vado of my bike and the issue followed the battery, to this bike.
Tried to ride to see if motor would respond to speed selection, up or down. No active motor assist.
Sent email Specialized RideCare, no response in a week.
Took to LBS (Specialized Dealer) had firmware updated, did not help. The LBS is talking to Specialized Vado engineer, he thought wiring harness until informed the issue followed battery between bikes. He is too research and contact LBS sometime.
Talked to two Specialized bike shops owners I know, they also are stumped.
Can not find Specialized instructions to properly / fully discharge the battery, or perform a reset.
Known solution or if you know a resource that can help I would appreciate a response.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Known solution or if you know a resource that can help I would appreciate a response.

I've begun a conversation on that matter in the other thread.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Friends, a new experience. I'm transporting my Vado in my station-wagon car (for some reasons I cannot use the bike rack). Fancy how fantastic is to carry the torque wrench inside your car. The front wheel removed (the axle-thru system), I'm arriving at the route start point, just fasten the wheel with the torque wrench and off I go!

You can get the DT swiss 6mm QR tool to either keep in your saddle bag or keep on the bike. It makes pulling the axle a breeze. You can get the DT Swiss rear axle that has the lever integrated (can be a theft concern in certain areas). Check it out (of note if you want the entire axle it's 148x12mm with 1.0 thread pitch, the front axle is particular to the Suntour fork or whatever your bike came with):


DT Swiss RWS Plug-In Replacement Handle - 6mm

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Thank you!

the front axle is particular to the Suntour fork or whatever your bike came with

Ye Ole Goode Specialized

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Thank you!


View attachment 55295
Ye Ole Goode Specialized

There you go! Ever think of upgrading to a front suspension fork? Pretty easy to do and really helps keep the big hits at bay when riding. I believe Suntour makes a pretty comparable fork to the one on my 5.0 for a few hundred (US). Headset should be fine, you just need a tapered steer.

Don't get me started on your wheels, you're due for an upgrade!! I'd go DT 240 hubs laced to Velocity Aileron rims, 28h front and back, 2x lacing pattern. If you want to go one further, consider Nox carbon rims, you can have them laced to DT 240 hubs, 15x100 in the front, 12x148 out back. Top speeds don't change but you should see an increase in range and ability to maintain speed much more easily as you're reducing unsprung weight.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Pretty easy to do

You must be joking. There is a Forum thread created by @DanInStPete in which Dan tried to explore any alternative to the stock Vado sus fork; not to avail. Secondly, "You don't let your friends buy Suntour" Thirdly, how would you see a beautiful grizzle bike with a black fork? We call it "the Galician look" (from the Galicia province in Poland, not in Spain). I would say the 2" Electrak tyres perform well; I use Baramind BAM Trek shock-absorbing handlebars. Moreover, a rigid fork is more stable at high speed, especially with emergency braking...

We won't discuss wheels. Period.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

You must be joking. There is a Forum thread created by @DanInStPete in which Dan tried to explore any alternative to the stock Vado sus fork; not to avail. Secondly, "You don't let your friends buy Suntour" Thirdly, how would you see a beautiful grizzle bike with a black fork? I hear it is called "ghetto" in the American English We call it "the Galician look" (from the Galicia province in Poland, not in Spain). I would say the 2" Electrak tyres perform well; I use Baramind BAM Trek shock-absorbing handlebars. Moreover, a rigid fork is more stable at high speed, especially with emergency braking...

We won't discuss wheels. Period.

I haven't gone through the motions of finding an actual fork since the US didn't get those rigid forks (I don't think anyways on the Vado). That said, looks to be a typical tapered steer MTB fork. Match the axle-crown race measurement and fork rake and one should be home free. I hear you regarding Suntour, definitely not the same company from the past, but their forks have come quite a long ways! I'm impressed with the stock offering of the 5.0. Typically I'd prefer a carbon fork to save weight but when the bike weighs close to 50lbs what's a few more or less? Unsprung weight is a totally different story though!

I've done plenty of "panic" stops as the 46kph top speed has me doing crit style riding in the cities (not always the best idea given the current pandemic), the progressive nature of the fork is great. I'd much prefer a firm handlebar/stem and suspension fork than some sort of dampening on the bars as an alternative. Simply rider preference I suppose. Coming from motorcycles usually you wan the suspension to compress rather than the rider controls (dampened handlebars) to move.

Not to take this in a political direction but I'd suggest different language than "ghetto" given the current activities in the US and abroad. Perhaps, "less than ideal" as an alternative? I know Polish is the native tongue, not trying to poke fun.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Edited.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Edited.

No problem, we're all in this together friend

Now to change your mind about suspension forks and get you on some good wheels!!

 

[Cyklefanatic]

There you go! Ever think of upgrading to a front suspension fork? Pretty easy to do and really helps keep the big hits at bay when riding. I believe Suntour makes a pretty comparable fork to the one on my 5.0 for a few hundred (US). Headset should be fine, you just need a tapered steer.

Don't get me started on your wheels, you're due for an upgrade!! I'd go DT 240 hubs laced to Velocity Aileron rims, 28h front and back, 2x lacing pattern. If you want to go one further, consider Nox carbon rims, you can have them laced to DT 240 hubs, 15x100 in the front, 12x148 out back. Top speeds don't change but you should see an increase in range and ability to maintain speed much more easily as you're reducing unsprung weight.

Dump the suspension fork. The real upgrade is a carbon rigid fork with a suspension stem. Lighter, more responsive, better aero, superior performance on small bumps.

 

[Brendon@OEB]

Suspension stems are so great, Softride went out of business!

Is that the lightest setup? Probably, but keeping the "suspension" on the chassis is the optimal solution.

Pretty ironic talking about "light weight" stuff on a 50lb e bike, hahaha. My battery died on the way to the shop today, forgot to charge it. Still cruised at 30kph without working too hard. Heavy, sure, but they ride well!

 

[JBridges]

I'm new to electricbikereview so please tell me if I'm not posting the right way. I just bought a Specialized Turbo Vado 3 and love it. I have a Specialized Robaix road bike which has been great but wanted a bike I could hop on with regular clothes and shoes and that had assist to bring me back up the hills around here. My only problem is that it seems to be a very rough ride on any uneven pavement. I'm not sure whether it is because I'm going faster, because of the weight of the bike, the tires or whether I have not set the suspension shocks properly. I went over a grate in a road by mistake and felt like my fillings were going to fall out. And would like to sort out a more comfortable saddle. I've been riding about 17 miles a day almost every day since I bought it. After an hour or so, it begins to be uncomfortable. The goal is to the much longer rides. BTW, going up and down hills for 17 miles has used about 1/3 of my power each time.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

1. Check whether the suspension fork is not set to "firm" position
2. Reduce the tyre pressure
3. Invest in the Kinekt 2.1 suspension seat-post, 30.9 mm diameter, "short" one
4. There is a huge Forum thread on saddles. Whichever you choose, fit it properly; or visit a bike-fitter. The best saddle will feel hard if not fitted.

My personal faves are the Ergon ST Core Prime and Selle Royal Respiro Moderate. Other believe in Selle Anatomica etc.

Saddle

I have a 2020 Vado 5.0 and thinking to change saddle. Does anyone have experience with Specialized S Works Power Arc ? Aside from the brand name what makes a saddle this expensive? Graphite? Is it much more comfortable to ride than less expensive good quality ones? here is a pic.

electricbikereview.com

P.S. I have gone through all of this. Today I make even 70-milers. Note: Long ride will certainly mean a pita even with the best and most properly fitted saddle if you wear no chamois shorts.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Ah, I have forgotten about the grips. I have found Ergon GP3 as the best for the Vado. You can change the hand positions on long rides. Holding the bars delicately from outside (as if you were holding a steering-wheel) additionally reduces the road vibrations.

 

[JBridges]

1. Check whether the suspension fork is not set to "firm" position
2. Reduce the tyre pressure
3. Invest in the Kinekt 2.1 suspension seat-post, 30.9 mm diameter, "short" one
4. There is a huge Forum thread on saddles. Whichever you choose, fit it properly; or visit a bike-fitter. The best saddle will feel hard if not fitted.

My personal faves are the Ergon ST Core Prime and Selle Royal Respiro Moderate. Other believe in Selle Anatomica etc.

Saddle

I have a 2020 Vado 5.0 and thinking to change saddle. Does anyone have experience with Specialized S Works Power Arc ? Aside from the brand name what makes a saddle this expensive? Graphite? Is it much more comfortable to ride than less expensive good quality ones? here is a pic.

electricbikereview.com

P.S. I have gone through all of this. Today I make even 70-milers. Note: Long ride will certainly mean a pita even with the best and most properly fitted saddle if you wear no chamois shorts.

Hi Stefan, Thanks for replying so quickly. As far as the suspension, there is a choice of Open or Locked on the right hand side and a Plus/Minus Preload range on the left hand side. Right now, I have the right set to Open and the left dialed a bit toward the minus. Is there a better way to do it for less bumpiness? As far as getting fitted, we are just on the downslope (we hope) from the virus here and so am trying to keep to minimal contact at this point and working things out on my own as best I can. I had looked at the saddles thread but found it overwhelming. So much information, so many opinions. I may go back to my chamois riding shorts for longer rides in the meantime. Thanks again.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

"Open" and "Minus" is the right direction!

 

[Sierratim]

Hi Stefan, Thanks for replying so quickly. As far as the suspension, there is a choice of Open or Locked on the right hand side and a Plus/Minus Preload range on the left hand side. Right now, I have the right set to Open and the left dialed a bit toward the minus. Is there a better way to do it for less bumpiness? As far as getting fitted, we are just on the downslope (we hope) from the virus here and so am trying to keep to minimal contact at this point and working things out on my own as best I can. I had looked at the saddles thread but found it overwhelming. So much information, so many opinions. I may go back to my chamois riding shorts for longer rides in the meantime. Thanks again.

I'd go with the chamois for all long rides even after your bike is 'dialed in'. Your 'you know what' will thank you. I also use a chamois cream when I'm riding longer distances multiple days in a row. Eliminates any chaffing for me.

 

[JBridges]

I'd go with the chamois for all long rides even after your bike is 'dialed in'. Your 'you know what' will thank you. I also use a chamois cream when I'm riding longer distances multiple days in a row. Eliminates any chaffing for me.

Thanks. That's the conclusion I came to, also. Rode with my chamois lined shorts today. Definitely helped. And discovered that while I had thought the shocks were set to open, they were actually set to locked. So fixed that and it helped. Am also going to take a good look at seat height and handlebar height. Thanks again.