Known Issues & Problems with Specialized Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Cyklefanatic]

I love my Vado 4 which I just bought last September. The bike is a joy to ride with nice handling and the best brakes I have ever owned on a bike.
I have one annoying problem and that is that it is impossible to remove the battery. It has been to the LBS twice. The second time they switched out the lock mechanism and installed a new style of shim. That worked for about two months. Now I cannot remove the battery, they turns all the way but the catch won’t release the battery. I live in a condo and have to remove the battery to charge it so this is a show stopper. I have tried everything I could think of. I debarred all the sharp edges, I tried some light oil. When installing the battery if you don’t jam it in really hard the battery pops out during the ride. I am going to take it to the LBS again and hope for some kind of new solution.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Well, I have learned to live with my Vado 2017 batteries and experience no problems with removing or replacing them.

 

[CoastChimes]

I love my Vado 4 which I just bought last September. The bike is a joy to ride with nice handling and the best brakes I have ever owned on a bike.
I have one annoying problem and that is that it is impossible to remove the battery. It has been to the LBS twice. The second time they switched out the lock mechanism and installed a new style of shim. That worked for about two months. Now I cannot remove the battery, they turns all the way but the catch won’t release the battery. I live in a condo and have to remove the battery to charge it so this is a show stopper. I have tried everything I could think of. I debarred all the sharp edges, I tried some light oil. When installing the battery if you don’t jam it in really hard the battery pops out during the ride. I am going to take it to the LBS again and hope for some kind of new solution.

I hear you. My Vado 3 2020's battery is a real pain to put back in securely. I had a 2019 2.0 that was tricky, but nothing near as bad as the 3.0. At least with the 2.0, prying up with fingernails would allow me to ascertain if the battery was locked in... with the 3.0, several times I have very strongly tried prying it up with my fingernails, sure it was it, only to see it about to fall out during a ride! I can not for the life of me understand how a bike with a dedicated team of engineers allowed this to pass. Not good enough. I do love everything else about the bike.

 

[Cyklefanatic]

I hear you. My Vado 3 2020's battery is a real pain to put back in securely. I had a 2019 2.0 that was tricky, but nothing near as bad as the 3.0. At least with the 2.0, prying up with fingernails would allow me to ascertain if the battery was locked in... with the 3.0, several times I have very strongly tried prying it up with my fingernails, sure it was it, only to see it about to fall out during a ride! I can not for the life of me understand how a bike with a dedicated team of engineers allowed this to pass. Not good enough. I do love everything else about the bike.

I have been playing around adjusting the suspension fork and I found out if the key turns but the battery won’t come out then ride over a large curb and lean forward on the fork as it lands. The shock of the landing releases the battery. Specialized staff if you read these forums take note. Your brand is being damaged by your inability to fix what should be a simple problem. I tell everybody who asks me about the Vado about this problem.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

My Vado 3 2020's battery is a real pain to put back in securely.

Guys. I will try to patiently explain how to properly insert the Vado battery. I own the 2017 model and don't tell me the battery chamber was any better:

Lean the bike against a wall, a tree or whatever else so the bike is standing upright. Align the bottom of the battery so it looks like in the photo. The battery should be almost perpendicular parallel to the frame. It ensures the battery contacts are inside the "harness" at the bottom of the battery chamber.

It is hard to see it in the picture but a micro gap remains. The battery is not secured yet. Give the battery a good slap near to the top leftmost corner.

I had a similar opinion as you when I bought the bike. Since, I've learned how it works, bought a spare battery and am replacing the batteries on my longer rides. (To remove the battery, turn the key clockwise energetically).

If you think integrated batteries pose some issues only in the Vado then you are very wrong.

 

[CoastChimes]

Guys. I will try to patiently explain how to properly insert the Vado battery. I own the 2017 model and don't tell me the battery chamber was any better:

View attachment 49501
Lean the bike against a wall, a tree or whatever else so the bike is standing upright. Align the bottom of the battery so it looks like in the photo. The battery should be almost perpendicular to the frame. It ensures the battery contacts are inside the "harness" at the bottom of the battery chamber.

View attachment 49502
It is hard to see it in the picture but a micro gap remains. The battery is not secured yet. Give the battery a good slap near to the top leftmost corner.

I had a similar opinion as you when I bought the bike. Since, I've learned how it works, bought a spare battery and am replacing the batteries on my longer rides. (To remove the battery, turn the key clockwise energetically).

If you think integrated batteries pose some issues only in the Vado then you are very wrong.

Thanks for your explanation-- and I might well have done the same based on my 2019 Vado 2.0. I can tell you that with my Vado 3.0 I can follow your instructions perfectly, the battery will seem to be locked in, and sometimes still jar loose on a bumpy ride. Frustrating, and potentially dangerous.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

P.S. I wrote "perpendicular" by mistake. It should be "parallel".

 

[Marcela]

On the battery on my 5.0 the metal piece that the latch catches has a number, think mine is .5 or similar. Makes me think there are different thicknesses used to fit and secure the battery. Mine fits pretty snug with a good hand slap.

 

[Nxkharra]

On the battery on my 5.0 the metal piece that the latch catches has a number, think mine is .5 or similar. Makes me think there are different thicknesses used to fit and secure the battery. Mine fits pretty snug with a good hand slap.

Mine works well also on my Vado 5. Out and in with a slap .

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I must say I had the issue with proper inserting the Vado battery in the beginning but when I examined how it worked, no problems since.

 

[Sierratim]

I must say I had the issue with proper inserting the Vado battery in the beginning but when I examined how it worked, no problems since.

The mechanical interface is over complicated. It does seem that once you get it, it's all fine.

 

[CoastChimes]

Slapping the battery in never worked on my 3.0, as it used to on my 2.0, so some of these comments got me to have a much closer inspection. I decided to completely lubricate all the components, and it now works much, much better (does not even require a slap). There is an audible click, which did not happen before. I consider my own issue resolved, but I still think the design could be improved.

 

[Nxkharra]

Slapping the battery in never worked on my 3.0, as it used to on my 2.0, so some of these comments got me to have a much closer inspection. I decided to completely lubricate all the components, and it now works much, much better (does not even require a slap). There is an audible click, which did not happen before. I consider my own issue resolved, but I still think the design could be improved.

@CoastChimes Which parts did you lubricate?

 

[CoastChimes]

@CoastChimes Which parts did you lubricate?

At the top-- into the key slot, the latch, and the small metal button (suspect this was the main culprit, as it was not easy to push in / did not pop out well after being pushed in). Wiped off excess oil, and works very well now.

 

[Cyklefanatic]

If only it were that simple. My Vado 4.0 has been back to the LBS twice and I am dreading going back again. The battery is inserted all the way in and given a painful slap to get it in place. But it is impossible to remove the battery. I turn the key as hard as I dare and it will not release. The LBS uses two guys and thin paint scrapers. This design sucks period. My old Pedagos never had any battery load/unload issues. Nice click going in and out every time with normal effort. I have oiled, deburred and adjusted the lock to no avail. Maybe I have a lemon but mine is not the only one. Even the LBS admits it’s a common problem.

 

[CoastChimes]

If only it were that simple. My Vado 4.0 has been back to the LBS twice and I am dreading going back again. The battery is inserted all the way in and given a painful slap to get it in place. But it is impossible to remove the battery. I turn the key as hard as I dare and it will not release. The LBS uses two guys and thin paint scrapers. This design sucks period. My old Pedagos never had any battery load/unload issues. Nice click going in and out every time with normal effort. I have oiled, deburred and adjusted the lock to no avail. Maybe I have a lemon but mine is not the only one. Even the LBS admits it’s a common problem.

I hear you. I was so frustrated... and my LBS basically said that's just the way it is, and maybe just never remove the battery (!). Anyway, just to be clear, lubricating might not universally work, but it sure fixed my situation. Went from impossible / and not being sure if it was really locked in or not, to only needing a gentle amount of pressure (not even a slap). Here is a picture of the metal button that I think particularly needed oil, and to be compressed several times by hand, then more oil. Hope it helps someone else...

 

[Kam1936]

If only it were that simple. My Vado 4.0 has been back to the LBS twice and I am dreading going back again. The battery is inserted all the way in and given a painful slap to get it in place. But it is impossible to remove the battery. I turn the key as hard as I dare and it will not release. The LBS uses two guys and thin paint scrapers. This design sucks period. My old Pedagos never had any battery load/unload issues. Nice click going in and out every time with normal effort. I have oiled, deburred and adjusted the lock to no avail. Maybe I have a lemon but mine is not the only one. Even the LBS admits it’s a common problem.

Sorry to hear about your issues with the battery. The first Vado I tried 3.0 had similar battery issues. After a couple days of the blues with the battery I upgraded to Vado 5.0 2019 model. Lbs told me all the Vados have the issue. Not true. I have no problem taking out and putting the battery back. I don't even have to slap it like some suggest. I am careful of aligning it right when I put it back. I just press firmly until it clicks. The batteries are under warranty. If it's defected Specialized is obligated to fix at no charge to consumer.

 

[Cyklefanatic]

Sorry to hear about your issues with the battery. The first Vado I tried 3.0 had similar battery issues. After a couple days of the blues with the battery I upgraded to Vado 5.0 2019 model. Lbs told me all the Vados have the issue. Not true. I have no problem taking out and putting the battery back. I don't even have to slap it like some suggest. I am careful of aligning it right when I put it back. I just press firmly until it clicks. The batteries are under warranty. If it's defected Specialized is obligated to fix at no charge to consumer.

Not all Vados have the issue only a large percentage so count yourself lucky that you won the battery lottery that Specialized is running. Dealer says it’s a bad combination of the battery and lock mechanism that causes the problem. The lock is made by one company, the battery is made by another company and the frame it fits into is made by yet another company!
So production variances between the three of them lead to the problems we see. Specialized should have allowed for this when designing the Vado battery compartment.
How eager do you think Specialized is to replace my bike because of this battery problem?
My LBS was trained by Specialized and I trust their work because I have dealt with them for years.

 

[Kam1936]

Not all Vados have the issue only a large percentage so count yourself lucky that you won the battery lottery that Specialized is running. Dealer says it’s a bad combination of the battery and lock mechanism that causes the problem. The lock is made by one company, the battery is made by another company and the frame it fits into is made by yet another company!
So production variances between the three of them lead to the problems we see. Specialized should have allowed for this when designing the Vado battery compartment.
How eager do you think Specialized is to replace my bike because of this battery problem?
My LBS was trained by Specialized and I trust their work because I have dealt with them for years.

I agree that at least some have battery attachment issues. I can't speak to the statistics. However, I did mention the first Vado I intended to get had battery attachment issues. Lbs has been pretty good about making things right when complaining loudly. Loudly for me meant jumping the local chain of command and catching the owner's ear. After my complaint reached his desk, my lbs bent over backwards to fix it. I spent more money to get what I wanted, 5.0 instead of 3.0. A few hiccups along the way were addressed. I even got my 2019 Vado BLOK display upgraded to TCD-w for free at no cost to me. My lbs didn't have the final word, the owner did. Owner said take care of me, fix what I complained about. I started getting emails from lbs promptly and the main head bike shop to make sure I was being taken care of. The lbs manager wasn't to happy but I was more concerned about my own happiness.
Stay on them. Raise your voice. Emails. Facebook. That works too. Customer service hates bad reviews. Especially, a Owner who owns a chain of reputable Specialized bike shops. I wish you well.

 

[Kam1936]

I'm getting brave now. I slimed one of the Specialized thorn resistant tubes. I had zero experience with Presta valves. Good news. For these Presta tubes you can remove the valve core with pliers. The nut and then the threaded attachment. It took a while to figure out I didn't need to push the air stem all the way in like instructed. Apparently there are different types of Presta Valves. Once that is done you can slime the tubes just like Schrader tubes. I did this with latest tube I purchased not attached to tire. It's doable with the tubes in the tires on the bike now. That's my next mission. I should of followed my first mind when I got my bike and slimed the tubes from the beginning. That way I would have had three layers of protection. Liners, thorn resistant tubes and slime. I can't bring myself to go with Marathon tires. I'd rather go this route and keep the smoother ride.