Known Issues & Problems with Specialized Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
The short: I cleaned the connectors in the frame of the bike w/alcohol and got power back, I sealed off the battery seams with electrical tape as I noticed dirt & dust within the frame, and I willl replace the BLOKS display as well to see if that helps any other finicky issues.
The long:
Before leaving work I took a q-tip with alcohol and swabbed the connectors within the frame of the bike. I did not swab the battery. I also noticed there was a decent coating of dirt and dust on the inside of the battery bay/area. I ride a dirt path/trail (wide walking trail) to get to and from work every day and I notice a nice coating of dust on the bike, but I did not realize it was getting inside.
After wiping the connector the bike performed fine on the way home and fine on the way in. Full power, no stuttering etc. I then (not pretty, but works) put electrical tape around all the battery seams and anywhere else effectively sealing the container area from any further dirt. I'll see if that prevents the issue.
Although I do think that I will try to replace the BLOKS display as well because this display has been finicky in the past, and then this morning I turned the bike off briefly then back on and the display worked, but no power to the motor which makes no sense.
To clean your connectors use electromotive spray. You can buy it at an auto parts store. It is for spraying into connectors to clean them. You can reassemble the connectors when still wet. I use it on my turbo levo connections after hauling the bike on dirt roads with the battery removed.
Quick ?, my Como seems to top out at 17 mph when peddling.This creates a problem in traffic circles where I can’t (get out of the way) accelerate beyond 17mph. Is there a fix for this? Or is it something I could do with gear shifting? The larger question: Is Specialized Turbo Como 3 limited to 17mph by a motor adjustment?
Unique
New Member
Hi. Try to google "Planet3" that will give you what you are after. I´m very satisfied with it. Limit is increased with factor 3.
Nxkharra
Well-Known Member
2020 Vado 5 stops assisting for fraction of second intermittently. The problem was solved by LBS replacing the display.
recently the firmware was updated and the same issue occurred. Not sure if will happen again as this is a new issue.
The issue persisted so back to LBS.
Update - the motor was faulty and they sent a new motor under warranty.
so far everything works OK.
recently the firmware was updated and the same issue occurred. Not sure if will happen again as this is a new issue.
The issue persisted so back to LBS.
Update - the motor was faulty and they sent a new motor under warranty.
so far everything works OK.
Last edited:
Kam1936
Well-Known Member
For the mechanically inclined. I have a Turbo Vado 2019 5.0. My front brake isn't working at all. I noticed that the silver hex screw was loosened and there was fluid coming from this area. I tightened the screw but no front brake functionality. Do I have to take into bike shop to get it working or can I fix it myself. When I apply front brake it goes all the way down brake are no longer contacts the disc/rotor.
Any help? I'm trying to avoid taking back to the shop. I took a picture of the Hex screw that was loose and leaking fluid. It's attached to the brake cable.
Any help? I'm trying to avoid taking back to the shop. I took a picture of the Hex screw that was loose and leaking fluid. It's attached to the brake cable.
Attachments
Quadracer
Member
You have lost some brake fluid and need to bleed the brakes and add more brake fluid. You will need a bleed cup etc to do this or just take it to your lbs.
Kam1936
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the quick reply. I'll have to take it in. Seems like something the professionals need to handle.
Estimated cost?
Quadracer
Member
Its easy to do yourself if you get a bleed kit. It should take 15-20 minutes by a bike shop plus fluid.
Kam1936
Well-Known Member
Thank you. Once the rain passes, I'll take it up there.
Sierratim
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Nevada City, CA & Paradise Valley, AZ
Do you know if any brake fluid got on the brake pads? If so, I'd recommend replacing them after bleeding the brakes. Once they get contaminated with the mineral oil based brake fluid they're never the same.
As a minimum I'd suggest cleaning the rotor and the pads. Some posts to other threads recommend using rubbing alcohol for this. Since mineral oil is hydrocarbon based and alcohol is not, I prefer to use acetone. Be sure to wear rubber gloves if you go this way. The acetone will take all the oils right out of your skin in just a few seconds.
As a minimum I'd suggest cleaning the rotor and the pads. Some posts to other threads recommend using rubbing alcohol for this. Since mineral oil is hydrocarbon based and alcohol is not, I prefer to use acetone. Be sure to wear rubber gloves if you go this way. The acetone will take all the oils right out of your skin in just a few seconds.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Neither acetone nor alcohol work with the mineral oil. The mineral spirit (white spirit, light naphtha) is the right solvent.
Trust me, I'm a chemist
Kam1936
Well-Known Member
I ended up spending 72 bucks. I bought a new rotor, brake pads and the cost of labor to fix it. At my lbs recommendation. He said the pads were shot and rotor because of brake fluid contamination. Either way, if I tried to fix myself with bleed kit, which by the way I have no clue how to do it myself. The good thing is brakes work great now. And I don't hear that noise like finger nails on a chalk board. Think you all.
Sierratim
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Nevada City, CA & Paradise Valley, AZ
I certainly agree with you re alcohol being ineffective in removing mineral oil. Far be it from me to start a debate with a chemist re a couple of chemicals so I want to clarify that this is not my intent but I am confused about your comment re acetone. Aren't mineral spirits, naphtha and acetone all oil based solvents on an increasing scale of aggressiveness? In the US paint shops sell mineral spirits as a thinner for oil based paints and stains. I've personally found acetone to be much more effective than mineral spirits in cleaning up brushes, etc, used with oil based products. Mineral spirits will get the job done but it is quite a bit slower. I find that acetone does an equally good job of cleaning invisible grime off my bikes' rotors and pads, including the occasional drop of mineral oil.Neither acetone nor alcohol work with the mineral oil. The mineral spirit (white spirit, light naphtha) is the right solvent.
Trust me, I'm a chemist
What am I missing?
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Acetone is a ketone (made by chemical synthesis) and has no affinity to hydrocarbons Mineral spirit is a hydrocarbon itself.
Mineral spirit is a hydrocarbon itself.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
More information: Acetone is the proper thinner for nitrocellulose lacquers.
Xylene and toluene are aromatic hydrocarbons also good for mineral oils.
Xylene and toluene are aromatic hydrocarbons also good for mineral oils.
Sierratim
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Nevada City, CA & Paradise Valley, AZ
Thanks for clarifying.
So, which would be the most aggressive in removing mineral oil, and be generally available to the public? Happy to change from acetone!
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Xylene or toluene - oil paint thinners.
Sierratim
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Nevada City, CA & Paradise Valley, AZ
Thank you. I'll stick one of these in my shop in place of acetone.
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