Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Hi all,

I am currently looking for a NCM Milano rim to replace badly dented rim on a 27.5 inch bike. 26 inch are easy to find but 27.5, I have not found except to buy the complete rim-motor assembly. I might have to go with the full asse mbly if I can't fim the rim only. Of course the cost is very different.

Known issue 27.5 inch wheels and rims appear very difficult to find
what's the wide of the rim? the tires dont look too big so. I bett the cliffhanger would work and its a much higher quality rim https://www.universalcycles.com/sho...imbiqs0wM_gL6tqpmp7MwXNaeR_z_agUaAtCTEALw_wcB
 
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My Moscow motor has been making this weird noise at about 20km/h and disappears at higher speeds. You can hear it from this video from 8 to 12 seconds. Any ideas?

So basically I'm trying to find a specialised centre than can try to -at least- diagnose what is wrong the motor and it's worth fixing and I'm having unexpected issues.
No center I asked said they can fix it since they don't either deal with hub motors or with NCM (even thought it's probably a rebranded Bafang?), NCM Germany has never answered my multiple emails, calls or DMs.
NCM US answered they're in a different country and can't do much.
At this point do they even sell the entire rear kit?

This situation is absurd.
 
So basically I'm trying to find a specialised centre than can try to -at least- diagnose what is wrong the motor and it's worth fixing and I'm having unexpected issues.
No center I asked said they can fix it since they don't either deal with hub motors or with NCM (even thought it's probably a rebranded Bafang?), NCM Germany has never answered my multiple emails, calls or DMs.
NCM US answered they're in a different country and can't do much.
At this point do they even sell the entire rear kit?

This situation is absurd.
I believe it is a rebranded MXUS motor.
 
I think they're starting to show what they really are: just a Chinese company reselling their stuff under a German brand.
 
I think they're starting to show what they really are: just a Chinese company reselling their stuff under a German brand.
You might possibly test your motor with this tester: https://www.amazon.ca/ebike-tester/s?k=ebike+tester I imagine it is available in your country.

I believe that you are right. Their bike are entirely made in China with chineese components. However, that may be a good thing since most of the parts can be obtained on Aliexpress at very low cost.

I believe that ncm with disappear from the market very soon (if not already). As for techincal infos for repair, you are on your own and on this site for suggestions.

By the way, I am a "happy" user of a 2 Milanos bought in december 2022 from Leoncycles. ca. I keep "fingers crossed" since one has 2500 kms and the other 1300 kms without any flaw.

Good luck from Québec!
 
What should that tester tell me? The motor works fine despite the weird nose.
At this point I should just let it go and live with it since neither the company or other service centers are willing to help...

To be precise I was saying the company is actually owned and controlled from China, those local stores are just covers.
I wonder if those stores in CA, AU etc are still shipping their bikes (those that are available).
 
Also they're on purpose avoiding answering my emails. I sent many in the past months with no response. Today I tried a different email pretending to be interested in the opening times of the store in Munich and they answered 15 minutes later, they also told me that nor the store or the factory is currently being used. They're probably about to close everything for good or something.
 
Hi all,

just updating on my fidings while searching for a 27.5 x 1.9mm 36 HOLES/SPOKES rim.

You can see on picks 1 an 2 the new rim is larger than the old one. In fact the old rim fits right into the old rim.
I tried returning the larger rim to Amego and have it replaced by the proper size but after a few e-mails I never got any more replies. They don't know.
The rim is about 50$ including shipping so I elected to take care of it later and ask for an RMA.

So I went along to order from Leon Cycle and they pointed me to the Milano Plus full wheel with motor mounted.
I just needed the rim so this sounded like an overkill. Replacing a 50$ rim with a more or less 450$ wheel, but I did go with it any way.
So I received the new wheel with the motor mounted and noticed again the rim was larger than my own original rims.

Something is wrong, probably my original bike was mounted with older model rims/wheels and the new standard is the wider wheels and they don't carry the older wheel size anymore. If so they just should say so on their website.

So anyway I decided to mount the new larger rim on my front wheel and install the new larger wheel whit the motor in the back as it should be. Easy, right? Not so said the blind man.

I have to dismount my disk rotor from and cassette and install them on the new wheel. The rotor is easy but come to dismount the cassette is different. Obviously my FR-5 tool does not work on this. Notice the lock ring is outside of the gear assembly (pics 3 and 4). I've been to the bike shop and they dont sell this tool so I will need to bring the wheel in to have the cassette removed, possibly replaced with a compatible 8 gear cassette.

I just want to ride the bike.:mad:
 

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Hi all,

just updating on my fidings while searching for a 27.5 x 1.9mm 36 HOLES/SPOKES rim.

You can see on picks 1 an 2 the new rim is larger than the old one. In fact the old rim fits right into the old rim.
I tried returning the larger rim to Amego and have it replaced by the proper size but after a few e-mails I never got any more replies. They don't know.
The rim is about 50$ including shipping so I elected to take care of it later and ask for an RMA.

So I went along to order from Leon Cycle and they pointed me to the Milano Plus full wheel with motor mounted.
I just needed the rim so this sounded like an overkill. Replacing a 50$ rim with a more or less 450$ wheel, but I did go with it any way.
So I received the new wheel with the motor mounted and noticed again the rim was larger than my own original rims.

Something is wrong, probably my original bike was mounted with older model rims/wheels and the new standard is the wider wheels and they don't carry the older wheel size anymore. If so they just should say so on their website.

So anyway I decided to mount the new larger rim on my front wheel and install the new larger wheel whit the motor in the back as it should be. Easy, right? Not so said the blind man.

I have to dismount my disk rotor from and cassette and install them on the new wheel. The rotor is easy but come to dismount the cassette is different. Obviously my FR-5 tool does not work on this. Notice the lock ring is outside of the gear assembly (pics 3 and 4). I've been to the bike shop and they dont sell this toll so I will need to bring the wheel in to have the cassette removed, possibly replaced with a compatible 8 gear cassette.

I just want to ride the bike.:mad:
You can get a freewheel removal tool from Amazon at:
If you want the Park Tool version and are willing to pay a bit more, MEC have them:

I have used the knockoff version with no problems. Worthwhile investment if you need to replace freewheel down the road.

PS - I agree that that is an expensive way to replace a rim! What is the width of the new wider rims?
 
What should that tester tell me? The motor works fine despite the weird nose.
At this point I should just let it go and live with it since neither the company or other service centers are willing to help...

To be precise I was saying the company is actually owned and controlled from China, those local stores are just covers.
I wonder if those stores in CA, AU etc are still shipping their bikes (those that are available).
The bike shop I recently bought my bike from in Perth, Western Australia is still selling NCM bikes.
 
You can get a freewheel removal tool from Amazon at:
If you want the Park Tool version and are willing to pay a bit more, MEC have them:

I have used the knockoff version with no problems. Worthwhile investment if you need to replace freewheel down the road.

PS - I agree that that is an expensive way to replace a rim! What is the width of the new wider rims?
Hi there,

thanks for the tip. I just consulted my trusted friend, Calvin Jones from park tools https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/determining-cassette-freewheel-type and I understand the required tool is an HCW-17 or someting like it.
 
You can get a freewheel removal tool from Amazon at:
If you want the Park Tool version and are willing to pay a bit more, MEC have them:

I have used the knockoff version with no problems. Worthwhile investment if you need to replace freewheel down the road.

PS - I agree that that is an expensive way to replace a rim! What is the width of the new wider rims?
Hi,

The actual inside width is 2.5mm compared to 1.9mm for the original.
 
Hi there,

thanks for the tip. I just consulted my trusted friend, Calvin Jones from park tools https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/determining-cassette-freewheel-type and I understand the required tool is an HCW-17 or someting like it.
I don't profess to be an expert on this, but as far as i know the Milano+ has an 8-speed threaded freewheel (mine does) and a freewheel removal tool like the one I pointed to is what is needed. However, if you're taking it to your LBS, no doubt they will get it done. You might take note of what tool they use.
 
,.. The rotor is easy but come to dismount the cassette is different. Obviously my FR-5 tool does not work on this. Notice the lock ring is outside of the gear assembly (pics 3 and 4). I've been to the bike shop and they dont sell this tool so I will need to bring the wheel in to have the cassette removed, possibly replaced with a compatible 8 gear cassette.

I just want to ride the bike.:mad:

I'm pretty sure that the FR-5 tool is what you need to remove the entire freewheel from the hub.

The FR-5 has been replaced with a similar tool with more reach.

Screenshot_20230422-233720_DuckDuckGo.jpgScreenshot_20230422-233746_DuckDuckGo.jpg

You might need one with a longer reach?, but it has wider splines that are more shallow.


Screenshot_20230423-000042_DuckDuckGo.jpgScreenshot_20230422-235356_DuckDuckGo.jpgScreenshot_20230422-235445_DuckDuckGo.jpg

You would feed the motor cable through the tool to get inside the freewheel.

You've got the hex nut inside the freewheel, so you probably have the older design that doesn't require a chain whip.

Screenshot_20230422-234027_DuckDuckGo.jpgScreenshot_20230423-000714_DuckDuckGo.jpgScreenshot_20230423-000544_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Notice the splines inside the freewheel,..


Screenshot_20230423-000628_DuckDuckGo.jpg



Hi there,

thanks for the tip. I just consulted my trusted friend, Calvin Jones from park tools https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/determining-cassette-freewheel-type and I understand the required tool is an HCW-17 or someting like it.

The HCW-17 is for taking the cluster itself apart to replace a single sprocket.
A lot of people need to replace their small 11 tooth gear.

Screenshot_20230422-232948_DuckDuckGo.jpg


I don't profess to be an expert on this, but as far as i know the Milano+ has an 8-speed threaded freewheel (mine does) and a freewheel removal tool like the one I pointed to is what is needed. However, if you're taking it to your LBS, no doubt they will get it done. You might take note of what tool they use.


I'm no expert either but after watching the Park Tools video and looking at what you're working with, I'm pretty sure the tool that you need is the FR-5.2 or the longer FR-1.3


I've got the knockoff version like Fred has and I'm worried that it will snap if I ever go to use it.
It's not hardened steel, it's just a piece of crap painted black. Lol 😂

It's a really thin walled tool with not much meat to it and the freewheel can be seized up really tight on the hub.
The wrench they use to turn it has a two foot handle for tons of torque.

I'd suggest getting the proper Park Tool version that's hardened alloy steel.

Try to count the splines and get an idea of their dimensions if you can see past the axle inside your hub.
 
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I'm pretty sure that the FR-5 tool is what you need to remove the entire freewheel from the hub.

The FR-5 has been replaced with a similar tool with more reach.

View attachment 152195View attachment 152196

You might need one with a longer reach?, but it has wider splines that are more shallow.


View attachment 152209View attachment 152207View attachment 152208

You would feed the motor cable through the tool to get inside the freewheel.

You've got the hex nut inside the freewheel, so you probably have the older design that doesn't require a chain whip.

View attachment 152210View attachment 152211View attachment 152212


Notice the splines inside the freewheel,..


View attachment 152213





The HCW-17 is for taking the cluster itself apart to replace a single sprocket.
A lot of people need to replace their small 11 tooth gear.

View attachment 152214





I'm no expert either but after watching the Park Tools video and looking at what you're working with, I'm pretty sure the tool that you need is the FR-5.2 or the longer FR-1.3


I've got the knockoff version like Fred has and I'm worried that it will snap if I ever go to use it.
It's not hardened steel, it's just a piece of crap painted black. Lol 😂

It's a really thin walled tool with not much meat to it and the freewheel can be seized up really tight on the hub.
The wrench they use to turn it has a two foot handle for tons of torque.

I'd suggest getting the proper Park Tool version that's hardened alloy steel.

Try to count the splines and get an idea of their dimensions if you can see past the axle inside your hub.
 
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