Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Moscow29]

The PAS sensor is the black ring behind the left pedal where it fastens to the crank - it does sound like that could be the problem from what you have said .
Maybe check it is firmly in place , the pressure wash might have moved it . Or take it off and dry it in the sun . It has a connector at the end of its cable , check that is ok too. Failing that it’s cheap replacement if you can find one on the Leon cycles website .

 

[-sandro-]

Hello,
I washed the NCM Moscow with the pressure washer and since then (or I think it was since then) 90% of times I go over a bump/hole or I switch the front gear the motor power is switched off immediately (imagine that when you're on trail uphill) for 2 seconds even if I don't stop pedalling. The display and battery do not turn off, just the assist.
I'm pretty sure it has to do with the PAS sensor. Do you know where it is and if it's possible I moved it or damaged it with the pressure washer?

Hello,
I took the bike to a repair shop, they cleaned all the contact and cables, they removed and put back again the sensor and still the problem hasn't been solved.
What really puzzles is why the sensor would cut off power for less than second (it's not 2 seconds like I wrote before) when I switch gear. The only explanation I can find is that it's actually broken inside and a particular mechanical shock triggers the off signal. But then again if that simple "shock" can trigger it why don't all the movements while riding? Sometimes I deep holes that even hurt me and the motor never stops... very weird.

 

[Moscow29]

Just a thought that came to me - try disconnecting the cable from the brake lever to the display unit that cuts off the power to the motor

 

[-sandro-]

Good tip, I'll try that!

 

[Aspen user]

I've only had my Moscow for two weeks and this part broke. Seems like others have had this issue? Sent an email to Leon but haven't received response yet. If I keep the battery in it's fine but I can't put it on my bike rack with the battery in.

I have an Aspen and it my problem as well. Also I see a lot of other delivery guys with Moscows and Aspens with this problem.
I used hot glue and stuck it down. Also I wrap up the battery with a flat bungee to keep it from rattling and falling out.
I now have a broken hub axel and I cannot find a replacement, except to buy a whole new motor. I noticed on newer motors the axel is much thicker, so I'm wondering if it is a known problem.
A 40$ part breaks but now I must spend 300$ to fix it.
I do so enjoy the bike so much.

 

[-sandro-]

Just a thought that came to me - try disconnecting the cable from the brake lever to the display unit that cuts off the power to the motor

Didn't fix the issue...

 

[Aspen user]

Anyone have a problem with a loose headset on the Moscow? I could never get mine to not rock back and forth at the top.

I’m in the process of upgrading the fork so I took the headset out and found that this bike uses a crown race reducer to fit the straight steerer tube fork with the tapered head tube and tapered headset. My crown race reducer had gotten all chewed up from the bottom bearing rocking over it. So I decided to buy a new headset because of this damage. Luckily I removed the top and bottom cups of the headset because I learned the bottom cup is a hard to find size, it’s a 55mm vs the more used 56mm cup. I got tonight and as I compared the fit of the new vs the old head set on the fork I noticed the original Neco headset is extremely loose at the top bearing (not at the bottom bearing where the damage was). The top compression ring of this headset isn’t holding the bearing snug and this allows the top of the fork it to wiggle around just under the stem.

Can someone that has an NCM Moscow with the original fork and original Neco headset check to see if your headset is loose? I want to know if it’s just my bike that had a flaw.

The way I tested it was to stand next to or in front of the bike, squeeze the front brake with one hand and put your other hand around the headset just below the stem and rock the bike back and forth while the front brake is locked up. If it’s loose you will feel movement between the Neco headset and the part of the frame it sits on (head tube).

Sorry for such a long first post and thanks in advance for anyone that can check their bike for a loose headset.

pic of the damaged crown race reducer:View attachment 89861

Yes, my Aspen had the same loose fitting.
I wish I could order a better fitting one.

 

[lucF]

I was very satisfied with my Milano (750 kms) until a recent intermittent loss of power feed to the motor. It sounds like the controller does not see PAS sensor, or only from time to time: the power is fed for a few seconds, then stops (as seen on the screen). Is there a connector that can be loose on the PAS sensor ? As this is an integrated sensor, is there anything I can do to fix it, if this is the problem, or should I just replace it ?
By the way, but it seems unrelated to the previous problem, as it happened quite long before: there is like the sound of a ball rolling down, each drive turn...
I am a bit worried, as the french NCM seller seems to have vanished: I could not even get a bill for my purchase...
Thanks for your help

 

[e-easyrider]

Yes, my Aspen had the same loose fitting.
I wish I could order a better fitting one.

I am pretty sure I have the same issue (Moscow)...I have not had a chance to dismantle yet. I was hoping it was a simple bearing set that failed...I don't know what the inside is comprised of yet. Does anyone have a diagram of the area, part numbers or sizes would be nice

 

[-sandro-]

I was very satisfied with my Milano (750 kms) until a recent intermittent loss of power feed to the motor. It sounds like the controller does not see PAS sensor, or only from time to time: the power is fed for a few seconds, then stops (as seen on the screen). Is there a connector that can be loose on the PAS sensor ? As this is an integrated sensor, is there anything I can do to fix it, if this is the problem, or should I just replace it ?
By the way, but it seems unrelated to the previous problem, as it happened quite long before: there is like the sound of a ball rolling down, each drive turn...
I am a bit worried, as the french NCM seller seems to have vanished: I could not even get a bill for my purchase...
Thanks for your help

That's exaclty my issue, have you checked if the PAS sensor hasn't moved? Mine did move but then the issue came back so I'm not sure what it is at this point but I can assure you even a small movement to the outer part of the pedal can cause that.

 

[lucF]

That's exaclty my issue, have you checked if the PAS sensor hasn't moved? Mine did move but then the issue came back so I'm not sure what it is at this point but I can assure you even a small movement to the outer part of the pedal can cause that.

I have moved back the PAS, which was a bit excentric, pushed the connexion from the controller to it, and now it is fine again. Let's keep informed if this comes again. Thanks

 

[-sandro-]

I have moved back the PAS, which was a bit excentric, pushed the connexion from the controller to it, and now it is fine again. Let's keep informed if this comes again. Thanks

My issue hasn't disappeared, is your issue still fixed as of today? I'm gonna have to try myself after I buy the right tools.

 

[lucF]

The first fix with the PAS did not work very long. I noticed it moved again, away from the fixed part. So I pushed it back again, and put some glue (the kind used to block screws) between the two parts of the PAS. It has now worked for several weeks.

 

[-sandro-]

The first fix with the PAS did not work very long. I noticed it moved again, away from the fixed part. So I pushed it back again, and put some glue (the kind used to block screws) between the two parts of the PAS. It has now worked for several weeks.

Hi, what kind of tools do you need to remove the crankset and access the sensor?

 

[-sandro-]

My Moscow motor has been making this weird noise at about 20km/h and disappears at higher speeds. You can hear it from this video from 8 to 12 seconds. Any ideas?

Dji 0274 001-1.m4v

drive.google.com

 

[-sandro-]

My Moscow motor has been making this weird noise at about 20km/h and disappears at higher speeds. You can hear it from this video from 8 to 12 seconds. Any ideas?

Dji 0274 001-1.m4v

drive.google.com

Does anyone know who I have to contact to reach leon cycle? The European store is not answering, alto the same seller on Amazon.it where I bought the bike is not responding.

 

[Georges]

Does anyone know who I have to contact to reach leon cycle? The European store is not answering, alto the same seller on Amazon.it where I bought the bike is not responding.

I am in Canada. Leon cycle is no longer there, it seems...No more website. You could try at this site:https://ncmbikes.ca/. They possiblely have site in other contry. I believe you will need a lot of luck to get any help from them...

 

[lucF]

WARNING: dangerous saddle fastening !
The central bolt that fastens the saddle of my Milano bike suddendly broke, while on a quiet road (and I am only 75 kg...). I strongly recommend that you replace this bolt (M7, please confirm this on this thread) by a non-stainless, high resistance steel (stainless is generally less resistant than ordinary 10.9 steel).

 

[Jeff Kent]

WARNING: dangerous saddle fastening !
The central bolt that fastens the saddle of my Milano bike suddendly broke, while on a quiet road (and I am only 75 kg...). I strongly recommend that you replace this bolt (M7, please confirm this on this thread) by a non-stainless, high resistance steel (stainless is generally less resistant than ordinary 10.9 steel).

Yes, I too have had this problem, twice. The first time I had to throttle home standing up on the pedals. I now carry a spare M8 high tensile bolt with me.

 

[JakeV]

Hi all,

I am currently looking for a NCM Milano rim to replace badly dented rim on a 27.5 inch bike. 26 inch are easy to find but 27.5, I have not found except to buy the complete rim-motor assembly. I might have to go with the full asse mbly if I can't fim the rim only. Of course the cost is very different.

Known issue 27.5 inch wheels and rims appear very difficult to find