Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[blueskyca]

I´ve been fishing for the headlight connector on my moscow, which is either nonexistent or deeply
buried in the frame. the controller has remained waterproof thru much. & I don´t want to tamper with it
to hunt for the connector. Yet, I presume that´s what I have to do to get at it??? Is there no such connection
on a regular moscow? How much was the wiring harness,($)?

If it's like the Moscow+, it's easy to pull the battery and unscrew the frame mounted battery connector to get access to the headlight Julet connector and cable. The headlight cable is hardwired to the battery cable and runs at full battery voltage. I bought a 2 pin male Julet connector off Amazon for about $8 to wire my headlight.,

 

[john peck]

If it's like the Moscow+, it's easy to pull the battery and unscrew the frame mounted battery connector to get access to the headlight Julet connector and cable. The headlight cable is hardwired to the battery cable and runs at full battery voltage. I bought a 2 pin male Julet connector off Amazon for about $8 to wire my headlight.,

THX!

 

[wattrider]

I´ve been fishing for the headlight connector on my moscow, which is either nonexistent or deeply
buried in the frame. the controller has remained waterproof thru much. & I don´t want to tamper with it
to hunt for the connector. Yet, I presume that´s what I have to do to get at it??? Is there no such connection
on a regular moscow? How much was the wiring harness,($)?

Like Blueskyca said, the headlight cable was tucked up behind the grommet in the frame. If it's tucked back to far, you could take the battery out and then the mating battery socket assembly out (3 screws) and find it. The whole replacement light connector, battery male pins and controller connector harness was only $21 (AUD), I thought it would be good to have spares of the other connectors. Likewise, I saw the 2 pin headlight connector on Amazon for a reasonable price.

 

[john peck]

Like Blueskyca said, the headlight cable was tucked up behind the grommet in the frame. If it's tucked back to far, you could take the battery out and then the mating battery socket assembly out (3 screws) and find it. The whole replacement light connector, battery male pins and controller connector harness was only $21 (AUD), I thought it would be good to have spares of the other connectors. Likewise, I saw the 2 pin headlight connector on Amazon for a reasonable price.

I figured, wrongly, that they would be glued in like my ´other´ bike.

 

[john peck]

I figured, wrongly, that they would be glued in like my ´other´ bike.

FYI:: the tiny screws that retain the lock/dorado connector can work loose. If there are scratches on
the connector housing, your´s may be loose. If not corrected this can lead to catastrophic failure
when the prongs short out, this is not just on NCM, but for any bike with a dorado battery. This is
probably why that housing had been glued on my other bike. You will need a short phelps to
get at the connector screw.

 

[john peck]

If it's like the Moscow+, it's easy to pull the battery and unscrew the frame mounted battery connector to get access to the headlight Julet connector and cable. The headlight cable is hardwired to the battery cable and runs at full battery voltage. I bought a 2 pin male Julet connector off Amazon for about $8 to wire my headlight.,

Okay, I got the connector & have managed to mount a light. Connection fits but I left it off cuz I find nothing in
my moscow manual about how to turn it on & off?? I have an L-7 display. The light came off the ´other´ bike;
but since the connection fits I assume it´s compatible, there is a bilt-in resistor in the cable. No switch on
the light. Now what?

 

[Fred]

If it's like mine, there is no on/off switch thru the display. It is a direct 48V draw off the battery. The light that came with mine had a switch on top of the light itself for on/off. If your light doesn't have a switch, you will have to install one.

 

[wattrider]

If it's like mine, there is no on/off switch thru the display. It is a direct 48V draw off the battery. The light that came with mine had a switch on top of the light itself for on/off. If your light doesn't have a switch, you will have to install one.

Yes, same here, the switch is on the light. I have this light- https://www.leoncycle.com.au/bike-light-spanninga-kendo-hl2800
Glenn.

 

[john peck]

Yes, same here, the switch is on the light. I have this light- https://www.leoncycle.com.au/bike-light-spanninga-kendo-hl2800
Glenn.

Yes, same here, the switch is on the light. I have this light- https://www.leoncycle.com.au/bike-light-spanninga-kendo-hl2800
Glenn.

THx guys, this light is off a different bike. It´s good quality for a 48v bike. Went back to the manual
were it sez how to turn the back light on & off, meaning backlight on the display. On the other bike
the display lit when the light goes on. I´m going to test it tomorrow. other option? is there switch for
this 2 prong connector? I´ll check electricscooterparts.com, they may have one.
Update:: ESP has a couple switches that might work, but nothing specific for these 2 prong cylindrical
connectors. ( to be cont. )

 

[Fred]

THx guys, this light is off a different bike. It´s good quality for a 48v bike. Went back to the manual
were it sez how to turn the back light on & off, meaning backlight on the display. On the other bike
the display lit when the light goes on. I´m going to test it tomorrow. other option? is there switch for
this 2 prong connector? I´ll check electricscooterparts.com, they may have one.

Something like this handlebar mounted switch might work. I have one of these on my scooter.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[john peck]

Yeah, esp has that one, $4.95. Anyway, it looks like the only solution is strip wires
& do some jury-rigged soldering. I may as well buy a switch from the hrdwe. store. Actually,
I can just take one off one of my gas bikes for that matter. Was just hoping for something more specific.
It´s the best working part off the dam parts bike. I could just plug it in when I ride at night I guess.
Gonna try the backlight thing without plugging in 1st.

 

[Fred]

I cut that 48V tap used for the light and put a splitter in there with one side going to the light and the other with an Anderson connector to plug in any other 48V items. Right now, on that side I have a small digital voltmeter plugged in. Other items I may use down the road include my 48v air pump or my 48V to 12V step-down transformer in case I need 12V for some reason.

 

[john peck]

I cut that 48V tap used for the light and put a splitter in there with one side going to the light and the other with an Anderson connector to plug in any other 48V items. Right now, on that side I have a small digital voltmeter plugged in. Other items I may use down the road include my 48v air pump or my 48V to 12V step-down transformer in case I need 12V for some reason.

Okay, anderson connector , check. I´m poor with electronics, I can´t set the clock on a microwave, but that´s a
a start. THX.

 

[Bitmugger]

Hey John

I have my Moscow rigged now with a 5v and 12v system and a light with a switch all running from the 48v power lead hidden in the downtube. Everything is working great although I haven't used the 12v part of the system in the end. If you need any help with wiring let me know and if you just want to plug and play the connector hidden in your bike is a 2 pin red Julet connector and easily sourced on amazon. Saves cutting any wires.

I really really wish NCM had provided a way to turn on/off that 48v power source though. That's a pain in the butt for most DIY projects as 90% of front mount fork lights don't come with a switch.

 

[Fred]

Hey John

I have my Moscow rigged now with a 5v and 12v system and a light with a switch all running from the 48v power lead hidden in the downtube. Everything is working great although I haven't used the 12v part of the system in the end. If you need any help with wiring let me know and if you just want to plug and play the connector hidden in your bike is a 2 pin red Julet connector and easily sourced on amazon. Saves cutting any wires.

I really really wish NCM had provided a way to tuYou

Hey John

I have my Moscow rigged now with a 5v and 12v system and a light with a switch all running from the 48v power lead hidden in the downtube. Everything is working great although I haven't used the 12v part of the system in the end. If you need any help with wiring let me know and if you just want to plug and play the connector hidden in your bike is a 2 pin red Julet connector and easily sourced on amazon. Saves cutting any wires.

I really really wish NCM had provided a way to turn on/off that 48v power source though. That's a pain in the butt for most DIY projects as 90% of front mount fork lights don't come with a switch.

Hey Mr. Bitmugger
You mean there is another connector (in addition to the one used for the light) hidden in the downtube that comes directly off the 48V power?

 

[Bitmugger]

Hey Mr. Bitmugger
You mean there is another connector (in addition to the one used for the light) hidden in the downtube that comes directly off the 48V power?

Hey Fred

No just the one connector, the one you are referring to. I just branched multiple circuits from that one connector and used power adapters to get 5V and 12V from the 48V source.

 

[Fra]

Yeah, esp has that one, $4.95. Anyway, it looks like the only solution is strip wires
& do some jury-rigged soldering. I may as well buy a switch from the hrdwe. store. Actually,
I can just take one off one of my gas bikes for that matter. Was just hoping for something more specific.
It´s the best working part off the dam parts bike. I could just plug it in when I ride at night I guess.
Gonna try the backlight thing without plugging in 1st.

Hi,
Reading some of your comments on the chain and pads for the Moscow plus, which chain and pads do I need to get? I've nearly 3K on my Plus 29er.

 

[JakeV]

I have a NCM Milano Plus. I really like the bike.

But I recently experienced some power issues as many have mentioned in this forum. I followed instructions other members had provided and they were very helpful in troubleshooting the the issue.

I was riding the bike a couple of days ago and the power completely shut off. I was not able to power up the bike and I had absolutely no display. I had to ride the bike back home on manual power. Fortunately I was not to far from home.

After disconnecting the front light and both brake cutoff switches, I still had no reading on the display. I continued with disconnecting reconnecting all cables making sure no pins were bent or out of line.

The battery LED showed the battery was fully charged. Eventually I noticed the top mounting socket for the battery was just a bit loose. There are 3 screws securing the socket to the frame. One to the top of the frame, one to the side and one to the bottom of the frame. The ones at the top and side were very tight but the one on the bottom was a bit loose. I had to buy a 1-inch screwdriver to get to this one as the space is small.

Once I unscrewed the mounting I connected the battery and the power came on and the display was fully functional. Twisting the wires and the power went back off which led me to beleive it was a faulty connection. After Inspecting I found the weld on the positive terminal of the socket was broken.

The picture below shows the inside of the battery locking mount piece. You can see the weld is clearly broken on the battery's plus/positive terminal of the socket. Further you can see on the right hand side that the part is cracked 2/3 of the way from top to bottom.

Just ordered the part and I should be back up and riding shortly.

 

[e-easyrider]

I have a NCM Milano Plus. I really like the bike.

But I recently experienced some power issues as many have mentioned in this forum. I followed instructions other members had provided and they were very helpful in troubleshooting the the issue.

I was riding the bike a couple of days ago and the power completely shut off. I was not able to power up the bike and I had absolutely no display. I had to ride the bike back home on manual power. Fortunately I was not to far from home.

After disconnecting the front light and both brake cutoff switches, I still had no reading on the display. I continued with disconnecting reconnecting all cables making sure no pins were bent or out of line.

The battery LED showed the battery was fully charged. Eventually I noticed the top mounting socket for the battery was just a bit loose. There are 3 screws securing the socket to the frame. One to the top of the frame, one to the side and one to the bottom of the frame. The ones at the top and side were very tight but the one on the bottom was a bit loose. I had to buy a 1-inch screwdriver to get to this one as the space is small.

Once I unscrewed the mounting I connected the battery and the power came on and the display was fully functional. Twisting the wires and the power went back off which led me to beleive it was a faulty connection. After Inspecting I found the weld on the positive terminal of the socket was broken.

The picture below shows the inside of the battery locking mount piece. You can see the weld is clearly broken on the battery's plus/positive terminal of the socket. Further you can see on the right hand side that the part is cracked 2/3 of the way from top to bottom.

Just ordered the part and I should be back up and riding shortly.

nice find

 

[-sandro-]

Hello,
I washed the NCM Moscow with the pressure washer and since then (or I think it was since then) 90% of times I go over a bump/hole or I switch the front gear the motor power is switched off immediately (imagine that when you're on trail uphill) for 2 seconds even if I don't stop pedalling. The display and battery do not turn off, just the assist.
I'm pretty sure it has to do with the PAS sensor. Do you know where it is and if it's possible I moved it or damaged it with the pressure washer?