john peck
Well-Known Member
No problemMy Moscow will get up here:
Only 200m long but 20% according to the signs
No problemMy Moscow will get up here:
Only 200m long but 20% according to the signs
Hi mate why new wheel ? I have had an issue with x3 screws that have come loose and damaged the housing threads I have emailed NCM with a vid and teh screws . they carnt be re tapped I believe new wheel is in orderReceived the new wheel with motor. No tire attached. I can’t install this myself and will need to bring it in to a service shop.
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why did you have to have a new rear wheelas I have an issue at the momentReceived the new wheel with motor. No tire attached. I can’t install this myself and will need to bring it in to a service shop.
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Sadly, a new controller had no affect on the noise and loss of power after the very repeatable 8% grade, 5.5 mile climb at PAS 6. I think I agree that this may just be a limitation of this bike. This bike will climb crazy steep hills as long as you're wailing on the pedals in low gear, but long power eating climbs are not its strength. I believe the internal motor and electronics temperatures get too high and there isn't a graceful limiting mechanism, which results in motor drive noises, loss of power, and eventual thermal shutdown. Now I pull over and let it cool a few minutes when it starts to grumble, then continue on my way. Hats off to Leon Cycles for a quick response and trying all reasonable cures, but every eBike has its limits.Thanks for the response. The hill I was on is a pretty steady 10-14 MPH hill, but there are a few slow sections where I may have dipped to 8 or so. I also noticed that when it occurs if I quickly stop and lift the rear wheel and hit the throttle the noise and vibration are still there with the wheel freewheeling under no load. After a few seconds idle it snaps back to normal operation. The Leon Cycle folks think it may be a controller. Their Moscow Plus ad states "...there's no mountain you cannot climb." Hopefully that also applies to this 8% grade paved road.
Update, the regular moscow is now $1059. That´s probably as much bike as you´ll find at that price.....I´ve put 2700 miles on my moscow & i love it.
I haven't even got my bike yet, it's in limbo between processing and delivery. Amazon shows it as shipped but so far no tracking no. I've contacted Ryan Ritchie (Seattle) on several occasions an get a response within 12-48 hrs.I'd suggest calling them. They are slow replying to emails.
What? The world isn't flat? Don't tell QAnon!That would be 48/16 or a 3 to 1 ratio. I´guessing you are a lighter rider than I am at 225 pds. If that´s comfortable, go with it.
The modes on a moscow are more about the speed you want to travel than power. lower gears give you more leverage
against the pedal & reduce effort. It´s basically about finding the sweet spot that works best for you . On the flat, (theoretically),
mode 1 in a low gear at low speed,( 10 to 12 mph.) will provide max range...., but the world is not flat, people have different
levels of fitness & weight, & want to travel at different spds. As it sez in the manual,( I concur), try using all gears & modes to
familiarize yourself with the bike´s capabilities. Remember to ease of the pedals for a second as you shift. That saves wear & tear
& makes for smoother shifts. Find that sweet spot. Be safe & situationally aware!
Just realized you are in Italy, so I guess your dealing with the EU 25 Kph limits., That´s simple enough to change to mph, but don´t get
caught (Itś in the manual). Hope you don´t ride like Italians drive. (just kiddin´)
No worry, I can concoct far more intriguing conspiracy theories to beguile the gullible & weak mindedWhat? The world isn't flat? Don't tell QAnon!
If that's all it was, do you still have the original parts that were replaced? If so- bonus!, I'd rather be trouble free, but if you now have spares, good on ya!I have found my problem, inadequate wiring from battery mount. I have asked Leon to send me a new one but I don’t think this particular part is up to the job So I may try to upgrade the wires somehow.
with regards to your issue , I can only assume either a loose spoke or 2, or some problem with the motor . Both would be apparent under load so good luck. I have just replaced my controller, display, sensor etc which took me about 2 hours and then I found my wiring problem so I didn’t need to do any of it
December 25, 2014? I'm assuming you just haven't set the date on your camera, or is your bike really 6 yrs old?Eureka, Have retrieved lost images! this is so handy; I can rock either wheel off the ground to check & adjust brakes,
remove & repair tires, & more easily mount a trailer, & I have the rear mounted kick for unlevel surfaces.
The modified rack has a 2nd platform below the top to carry a second battery allowing for more range than I´d
care to ride in one day anyway. Mounted high, it puts the panniers behind my thighs to reduce drag & heel strike,
( I have size 14 feet.)View attachment 64720
I'm seeing alot of the experienced serious eMTB riders swearing by tubeless, seems to me it would be more prone to blowouts (although no more pinch flats). I don't quite see the advantage other than saving a little wheel weight... I suppose if you have sponsors, they do all the grunt work, and cost is not an issue with their $10,000 bikes.One issue I´ve had is the tire slipping on the rim. In two instances the tube folded back on itself & burst at the valve; in a 3rd it
actually ripped the valve off the tube. Only once was it actually punctured by a broken wire in the tire bead. As heavy as I am,
this bike produces instant torque on take off & the rim moves before the tire does. Likewise with full throttle uphill or hard
braking down hill. The wheel has a slippery plastic rim strip that should be replaced with a rubber one, even if the manual threatens
to void warranty. It is extremely important to keep just the right tire pressure. Too much will pop the tube,(especially in hot
weather). Too little & the tire wants to slip on the rim or bottom out in holes or bumps. I think ´lightly´ sanding the inside of the
rim where it clinches the tire bead.help prevent slippage. Flats are a major bummer, but on the up side, I´ve become quite proficient
at fixing rear hub motor flats. You really should learn to do these things yourself unless you are made of money. 15 euros is outrageous!
You can set the date on a camera? Hell, I can´t even set the clock on a microwaveDecember 25, 2014? I'm assuming you just haven't set the date on your camera, or is your bike really 6 yrs old?
Microwaves have a clock? mine just blinks 12:00 lolYou can set the date on a camera? Hell, I can´t even set the clock on a microwave
Rear rim is bent on my moscow plus. No idea how. Only have 80km ridden. It's definitely not from using throttle from a stop....I have never done that....I had it trued as straight as possible, but the rim needs replacing.
Leon has not gotten back to me after multiple attempts the past week. Just purchased the bike 4 months ago.
Any ideas of wear I can get the parts to build a stronger rear rim??
After 3300 mi. I had a rim issue a few days ago; hit a pothole that ripped the spoke nipple right out ofRear rim is bent on my moscow plus. No idea how. Only have 80km ridden. It's definitely not from using throttle from a stop....I have never done that....I had it trued as straight as possible, but the rim needs replacing.
Leon has not gotten back to me after multiple attempts the past week. Just purchased the bike 4 months ago.
Any ideas of wear I can get the parts to build a stronger rear rim??