Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[-sandro-]

How much did it cost to fix your flat at the shop?

€15, I live in one of the most expensive place in Italy anyway...
All based on tourism. Elsewhere is below 10.

 

[john peck]

I got a second rear flat in 1 month. This time could have been avoided. Tarmac with a wide line without it and downhill. I went full speed and it didn't see it even if it was signaled, twice. I think the tube just exploded.
I seriously need to buy that tube with the ends detached.
Do you think in this case Slime spray could have worked? I didn't try since the repair shop was close by.

One issue I´ve had is the tire slipping on the rim. In two instances the tube folded back on itself & burst at the valve; in a 3rd it
actually ripped the valve off the tube. Only once was it actually punctured by a broken wire in the tire bead. As heavy as I am,
this bike produces instant torque on take off & the rim moves before the tire does. Likewise with full throttle uphill or hard
braking down hill. The wheel has a slippery plastic rim strip that should be replaced with a rubber one, even if the manual threatens
to void warranty. It is extremely important to keep just the right tire pressure. Too much will pop the tube,(especially in hot
weather). Too little & the tire wants to slip on the rim or bottom out in holes or bumps. I think ´lightly´ sanding the inside of the
rim where it clinches the tire bead.help prevent slippage. Flats are a major bummer, but on the up side, I´ve become quite proficient
at fixing rear hub motor flats. You really should learn to do these things yourself unless you are made of money. 15 euros is outrageous!

 

[-sandro-]

Yeah I should but honestly I was already late for work and I didn't have time to play around with the rear wheel.
Is it that outrageous? The tube probably costed €7 and the rest the was labour, the poor guy should be paid for the service no?

Anyway what are my options to use on the road?
- Repair the puncture with patches without removing the wheel?
- Try slime spray and inflate the tube?
- remove the tire completely and replace the tube, this implies taking the tools required with me whenever?
- cut the tube and replace the with the quick change tube?

What do you think it's the easiest way?

Also the guy at the store told me the pressure was too low and he inflated the rear to 2 bar which is more than enough he said, I thought 3.5 bar was best?

 

[Presplan]

I know it’s the wheel and hub, but I’m not sure if it includes the tire. They said it also covers repair service at my local shop and it shouldn’t cost more than $20.

Received the new wheel with motor. No tire attached. I can’t install this myself and will need to bring it in to a service shop.

 

[TheEqualiser]

Received the new wheel with motor. No tire attached. I can’t install this myself and will need to bring it in to a service shop.
View attachment 64943

It honestly isn't that difficult and not only is it a skill well worth learning but you will also feel accomplished afterwards. I guess that Leon will pay for the LBS to do the job for you though but you should at least ask the guy in the shop to talk you through it so that you can do it yourself "next time".

Did they not send you the lovely electirc blue NCMBike decals to stick on too?

 

[Fred]

Many thanks...I may try it next time,,,but I hope there is no next time!!

For John Peck
When I got home, I discovered 3 broken spokes on the rear (a new record!). I am thinking of trying your technique without removing the rear whee. Any last minute advice?

 

[romavo]

Received the new wheel with motor. No tire attached. I can’t install this myself and will need to bring it in to a service shop.
View attachment 64943

I agree with John Peck on the flats. I had one so far and took the wheel out just to your replacement state, that's why I replied to your thread. I found wheel removal easy, much like a regular bike.
I have a milk basket zip tied to the top rear rack. Standing the bike upside down with that and the handlebars makes the wheel removal really easy. It is a bit better than Handlebars nd saddle but that will work just fine.
I replaced my NCM tube with a slime tube and kevlar liners. I also recommend to keep an extra tube on-board for a flat, better than the work for a patch that doesn't hold.

 

[john peck]

For John Peck
When I got home, I discovered 3 broken spokes on the rear (a new record!). I am thinking of trying your technique without removing the rear whee. Any last minute advice?

Fred, with three at once you might want to check for the spoke bores on the motor for damage. If the holes on the motor start to wear & widen out.
you´ve got a problem. Once they go bad you´ll be popping spokes on every ride, The Moscow will climb about anything, but it´s not really
the kind of mtn. bike for shredding trails. The main thing with replacing spokes wheel on is to be very inserting the nipple down onto the spoke
threads, itś real easy to lose one inside the dbl. wall rim. IF you are big like me, tire pressure is critical. I pretty much have to ride at the max
recommended pressure or a hair less, Too much & the bead will blow out, too little & the rim will bottom out on bumps & potholes popplng spokes.

 

[-sandro-]

Sandro, Do you still have your ownerś manual? Page 10, the adjustment bolts are the 2 which face directly to the rear.
Loosen, Do Not Remove! If for any reason you gripped the brake lever with the wheel off, they self adjust & will need to be
reset. From the look of your pads the appear to have been misaligned for some time. Having dbl leg kickstand that lifts
the wheel off the ground makes adjustment a much simpler matter. Right off your need new pads? (ebay) After replacing
pads with wheel off. loose adjustment bolts enuff so that the brake body will wiggle slightly left & right. Replace wheel.
Loosen the barrel adjust at the brake lever to slack cable a bit. While holding the loosened body spin the wheel moving
the body until the wheel spins freely with the rotor slightly closer to the outer pad. Snug up the bolts & re-adjust cable tension.
Your manual has helpful illustrations. I´ve done this a couple times; itś pretty easy once you figure it out. The other issue
with manual discs is that the cable will need regular tuning due to temperature changes & cable stretch. I have 2K mi.
on my 29er & have not yet needed pads, but have had to adjust each time I´ve had the rear wheel off.

About the step created in the rear pads I can confirm this is a design mistake.
I asked two other people with the Moscow and Milano and they both have the same behavior.
This a dangerous mistake if the steps touch themselves eventually the disk won't be able to touch the discs.
Also the fact that you can't adjust the inner pad screw because the motor is in the way is another design mistake they just won't admit.

 

[Rattler]

I’ve done over a 1200km on a Moscow Plus 27.5 inch.
I’ve had the following issues:

1. After owning for 3 weeks power cut off mid ride due to loose contact on one of the cables that connects to display. I had to take it back to bike store & after diagnosis they had to resolder.
2. Water leaked into PCB board located on battery on/off button due to riding in rain. Had to get replacement PCB board installed. Mechanic covered top of battery with electrical tape to prevent happening in the future. He said this is a common issue.
3. Rear derailleur cable broke & had to be replaced.
4. Rear wheel spokes have broken 3 times. I’ve now organised for a new rear wheel which will hopefully fix issue. Mechanic at shop said that broken spokes is a common issue with rear wheel hub drive bikes due to weight.

Not had an issue with water but will take onboard what you have said and look at something to rectify wonder if there are covers you can buy ? Spokes have bee the bain of my life I am 15st and had x3 spokes break on me just got my bike back so fingers crossed Leon Cycles have paid for the repair as it is still under warranty

 

[Rattler]

I’ve done over a 1200km on a Moscow Plus 27.5 inch.
I’ve had the following issues:

1. After owning for 3 weeks power cut off mid ride due to loose contact on one of the cables that connects to display. I had to take it back to bike store & after diagnosis they had to resolder.
2. Water leaked into PCB board located on battery on/off button due to riding in rain. Had to get replacement PCB board installed. Mechanic covered top of battery with electrical tape to prevent happening in the future. He said this is a common issue.
3. Rear derailleur cable broke & had to be replaced.
4. Rear wheel spokes have broken 3 times. I’ve now organised for a new rear wheel which will hopefully fix issue. Mechanic at shop said that broken spokes is a common issue with rear wheel hub drive bikes due to weight.

I’ve done over a 1200km on a Moscow Plus 27.5 inch.
I’ve had the following issues:

1. After owning for 3 weeks power cut off mid ride due to loose contact on one of the cables that connects to display. I had to take it back to bike store & after diagnosis they had to resolder.
2. Water leaked into PCB board located on battery on/off button due to riding in rain. Had to get replacement PCB board installed. Mechanic covered top of battery with electrical tape to prevent happening in the future. He said this is a common issue.
3. Rear derailleur cable broke & had to be replaced.
4. Rear wheel spokes have broken 3 times. I’ve now organised for a new rear wheel which will hopefully fix issue. Mechanic at shop said that broken spokes is a common issue with rear wheel hub drive bikes due to weight.

My spokes broke x3 times Leon are paying for the cost of replacement as under warranty upto £65 the rim had to be realined also went out yesterday all good I am 15st wouldnt say a racing snake but not too heavy wonder if there covers available for the battery ?

 

[Rattler]

Any thoughts on a bottle of slime for use in the field? I've never used it but was thinking of getting some to keep on me for any flats in the field.

Slime inner tubes in mine fingers crossed no punctures I also carry a spare tube in case also a small ajustable spanner for the rear wheel

 

[Rattler]

Leon UK are next to useless with regards customer support. You do get a reply from Germany eventually. Maybe a phone call would be best.

I must be lucky with customer support they have been very good with me Germany I contact as I bough my bike from there

 

[john peck]

Just a heads-up, if you have a moscow, you might want to replace the chain at 2000 mi. I cleaned and lubed mine fairly
often. when it failed at 2500 mi. it took the derailleur & a spoke with it. Rawther annoying. I¨d purchased another at
2K but was too lazy to get it mounted, big mistake, stripped the threads on the derailleur mount.

 

[john peck]

Slime inner tubes in mine fingers crossed no punctures I also carry a spare tube in case also a small ajustable spanner for the rear wheel

The problem I had with slime was it clogged up the valve, I´ve since replaced the tube with an expensive Schwalbe AV-19 tube,
costly but they held up well on my first ebike. The regular smart sam on the has sidewalls too thin for the amount torque the
moscow has, I went to a smart sam plus, thicker side walls, better clinching bead, & puncture protection. I really like the sam
tread pattern, but the plus is a much better tire for the rear wheel. I have 2500 mi. on the regular sam in front with scarcely
any visible wear.

 

[blueskyca]

Hi,
I have done 700 km with my Moskow. In general I am very happy with it. But last a few days, a metallic sound started to come from the motor, like metals are rubbing or wobbling. This happens very rarely, especially under some load, when climbing or fast starting up. BTW, I am 85 kg. Is there anyone who experiences the similar situation? Should I take an action? Thanks

I had the same issue with my Moscow+ after about a 5 mile climb - pretty repeatable. It comes on suddenly with vibration and I lose most of the drive power. If I tap the brakes the noise and vibration is instantly gone. I took a video for Leon Cycles and I let the noise persist for about 20 seconds and power completely cutoff at that point. After 20-30 seconds power was back. The hub is hot, but not so hot you can't keep your finger on it for 2-3 seconds. If you let it cool for a while it seems to be perfectly fine - until the next big hill.
Leon Cycles was very responsive and sent me a new wheel/motor. I spent a couple hours swapping out the wheel (not too difficult, and you'll need a readily available freewheel puller), but I'm having the exact same problem. Could this be a controller issue? I could envision where the controller might send incorrect phase signals to the motor, but his seems unlikely.

 

[john peck]

I had the same issue with my Moscow+ after about a 5 mile climb - pretty repeatable. It comes on suddenly with vibration and I lose most of the drive power. If I tap the brakes the noise and vibration is instantly gone. I took a video for Leon Cycles and I let the noise persist for about 20 seconds and power completely cutoff at that point. After 20-30 seconds power was back. The hub is hot, but not so hot you can't keep your finger on it for 2-3 seconds. If you let it cool for a while it seems to be perfectly fine - until the next big hill.
Leon Cycles was very responsive and sent me a new wheel/motor. I spent a couple hours swapping out the wheel (not too difficult, and you'll need a readily available freewheel puller), but I'm having the exact same problem. Could this be a controller issue? I could envision where the controller might send incorrect phase signals to the motor, but his seems unlikely.

Once your speed drops under 8 mph. the moscow & many other ebikes become pedal bikes. When that happens your just grinding gears.
Time to get off & walk. Doing otherwise may damage your motor. You probably missed the opportunity to shift to a lower gear in time to
safe your speed.

 

[blueskyca]

Once your speed drops under 8 mph. the moscow & many other ebikes become pedal bikes. When that happens your just grinding gears.
Time to get off & walk. Doing otherwise may damage your motor. You probably missed the opportunity to shift to a lower gear in time to
safe your speed.

Thanks for the response. The hill I was on is a pretty steady 10-14 MPH hill, but there are a few slow sections where I may have dipped to 8 or so. I also noticed that when it occurs if I quickly stop and lift the rear wheel and hit the throttle the noise and vibration are still there with the wheel freewheeling under no load. After a few seconds idle it snaps back to normal operation. The Leon Cycle folks think it may be a controller. Their Moscow Plus ad states "...there's no mountain you cannot climb." Hopefully that also applies to this 8% grade paved road.

 

[john peck]

Thanks for the response. The hill I was on is a pretty steady 10-14 MPH hill, but there are a few slow sections where I may have dipped to 8 or so. I also noticed that when it occurs if I quickly stop and lift the rear wheel and hit the throttle the noise and vibration are still there with the wheel freewheeling under no load. After a few seconds idle it snaps back to normal operation. The Leon Cycle folks think it may be a controller. Their Moscow Plus ad states "...there's no mountain you cannot climb." Hopefully that also applies to this 8% grade paved road.

There´s a trail that I frequent has a very steep section 1/3 mile long. the moscowś the only bike I´ve seen climb it. Ya need a bit of
a runnin´ start & pedal for all your worth, but it does climb it.

 

[TheEqualiser]

My Moscow will get up here:

Only 200m long but 20% according to the signs