Known Issues & Problems with Haibike Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Nova Haibike]

My new wheels arrived; they sent a pair even though I only have a problem with the rear wheel. I have not had a chance to check them for tension and true, but regardless, kudos to the online seller, Random Bike Parts, and Haibike USA for taking care of my warranty issue in a timely manner.

 

[tallpaul]

Glad to hear that. That's how it should be considering the price level, but sadly that isn't always so. Especially smart when you are in a relatively new business, at least here in the US,of bikes with new models coming out almost daily that this will add to your credibility of a quality product!

 

[net200777]

I've purchased a Mavic Crossride-FTS-X 29 as a replacement for the rear wheel (Trekking Sduro with 28" wheels). Although it's also a 622x21c I would not recommend this as a replacement for Haibike Trekking users who are urban riders and intend to use tires with anti-puncture technology (such as Green Guard). The issue with the Mavic is that the rim wall depth is 24mm versus 16mm for the original rim. This makes it extraordinarily difficult to get 700c tires on the rim, even though I'm clearly in the range of compatible widths. So ETRTO isn't the only value one should be paying attention to. I've found that it isn't that easy to locate wheels that fall within the proper specs, despite the plethora of 29" wheels. A lot of wheels are either optimised for race bikes or MTBs.

The exact specs probably vary depending on which Haibike Trekking model you have (and might be different), but I'll give the ones needed for my bike just in case someone is struggling with this:

- 10mm x 135mm, quick release
- 6 bolt disc
- 622x21c ETRTO
- 10 speed Shimano compatible
- Rim depth ~16mm
- Possible tire sizes: 700x35 to 700x47

Note: you may need an adaptor for the cassette depending on the configuration of your wheel hub and how many speeds your cassette has. It's a small O-ring to be placed underneath the cassette. Check your wheel documentation.

Bottom line: I think I might end up ordering the original wheel. It's on Amazon and is very cheap. If I ever get a puncture with the Mavic, there's simply no way I'm getting the tire back on the rim by the roadside. This is more than a tight fit... It took 4 hands and a screw driver to get the tire on. Despite the fact that I'm within the manufacturer allowed widths, it seems that the wheel was intended for more supple 29" 'CROSS' type tires.

Anyone have issues with shifting? Is it normal for the banging between gears? Or is it customary to stop pedaling between shifts?

 

[net200777]

It depends what kind of drive you have.

Yamaha: You need to let up a bit when shifting, otherwise you'll mash the gears
.
Bosch: It has shift detection, so you will not have to stop pedalling. The drive will stop providing power when it detects a gear shift. It works perfectly as long as your gear shifting is not hesitant or overly slow.

I see. I have the PWx and its quiet noticable

 

[Slipstream19]

Just let up on the power when shifting. You should always be in the right gear before a climb anyway.

 

[Haibike Rider]

About two weeks after I contacted @San Diego Fly Rides regarding the lost cable clip I got a call from their service guy. He told me he uses a zip tie when a clip comes off. I asked him to order a couple of clips for me in any case. Ten days after that, having heard nothing, I emailed @San Diego Fly Rides asking for an update. There was no response.

I then contacted the US Haibike distributor directly. Here's their response:

"Hello Sir
I am sorry to inform you that that clip is not a stocking part for Haibike, they are created at time of build and no spares are produced. We just instruct everyone in the US to use a zip tie when this occurs.
Thank You
Jed Paraso
Head of Operations / Event Manager Haibike USA"

This is disappointing. A zip tie is simply not elegant, and good design is part of the value of a $4,000 bike. It begs the question, what other parts of the bike are "not a stocking part for Haibike," and for which Haibike owners will have to fend for themselves?

Hi Bicyclista, If you search "bike cable clips" on Ebay, there are loads. Bought a pack for my Haibike and all is good again

 

[michaelwoodcock]

one issue I seem to have is assist cut out/ reduction over bumps. it seems that the shift sensor believes I have shifted and the assist disappears after a bump then slowly comes back. If I leave it in a lower gear the assist doesn't drop unless the bump is very large.

The only other issue has only happened once or twice. The cobi app will sometimes glitch when trying to unlock my bike. The app screen once said "mysterious bug" litterally. Resetting everything got it to unlock my bike.

other than assist reduction after bumps there are no issues at all that I feel like complaining about

 

[Haibike Rider]

I have suffered this twice now. First time the battery was loose (only slightly) in its holder and as I went over large bumps it would break contact, causing a power loss for a few moments. The other time was my Nyon connection was getting loose and that was causing the bike to cut out altogether. Bad terminal connections at the battery can also do this and again I greased the battery connections with automotive battery terminal grease and no problems since.
May not be the same issue? but might be worth checking all connections.

 

[michaelwoodcock]

I went all in looking for loose connections but it seems some of them must be made in the motor housing on the urban plus?
I couldn't really find any! I tightened up the battery terminals for stronger contact, and put some contact cleaner/corrosion inhibitor

what I did notice when I was in there, about a half hour after my ride, was that the motor controller and electronics were HOT! Perhaps after my bike bakes out in the sun at school it doesn't take much to overheat the electronics on the way home, and they lower assist to prevent very bad overheating?

the battery has a little port on there, apparently the battery has it's own firmware. Also even in the best conditions the bike does not really offer any assist past 25mph. This was once a rental bike so I am assuming perhaps they had the assist levels turned down after a certain speed to help the range. Unfortunately there are no tranzx dealers anywhere near me to check out this theory

 

[Douglas North]

I have a somewhat similar problem. Increasingly the system apparently thinks I am going very fast and a high speed flashes on the display, momentarily cutting off power and producing a lag. It has increased now to the point that the bike is basically unusable. Anyone have experience with this?

 

[michaelwoodcock]

I have a somewhat similar problem. Increasingly the system apparently thinks I am going very fast and a high speed flashes on the display, momentarily cutting off power and producing a lag. It has increased now to the point that the bike is basically unusable. Anyone have experience with this?

which is the make model and year of your HaiBike? is the speed shown accurate? or is it falsely showing a higher speed? you could have some road debris messing with the speed sensor, that sounds like a very weird problem. More details would be neccessary for any additional ideas.

 

[Douglas North]

It's a 2017 6.5 AllMtn. It is falsely and repeatedly showing a high speed. Let's say I am going 7mph. It will momentarily show a speed of 45mph, causing a momentary loss of power because of the 20 mph max. Then a few seconds later it will momentarily show a speed of some other high speed, say 38 mph, causing the same momentary loss of power. This happens continually. I don't know where the speed sensor is, and I figured (feared) that is was a software malfunction in the display.

 

[michaelwoodcock]

It's a 2017 6.5 AllMtn. It is falsely and repeatedly showing a high speed. Let's say I am going 7mph. It will momentarily show a speed of 45mph, causing a momentary loss of power because of the 20 mph max. Then a few seconds later it will momentarily show a speed of some other high speed, say 38 mph, causing the same momentary loss of power. This happens continually. I don't know where the speed sensor is, and I figured (feared) that is was a software malfunction in the display.

I am not entirely familiar with the workings of this system. It sounds like some wires may be getting electrical interference form the motor drive electronics, or maybe you have a bad connection (unlikely) or perhaps it is a bad component somewhere.

You could try adding a ferrite core/ring somewhere along the bike. I would think you should check the speed sensor too just for giggles. it could be off of the rear wheel. If your haibike is anything like mine, there is a magnet on the rear wheel and the speed sensor will be somewhere on the rear part of the frame or swingarm to pick that up.

 

[michaelwoodcock]

ok here's things I've found with the Haibike Urban Plus 2017, common problems and fixes

Problem: bike feels like it has very low assist vs assist level setting
My fix: remove and reinstall battery. now it will feel like you have full assist

Problem: bike looses assist after bumps
Problem cause 1: gear shifter adjustment is slightly off causing a bump to make the bike think you are shifting gears,
My fix: adjust it as good as you can
problemcause 2: loose battery connection
my fix: remove battery and tighten terminals, put some contact improver & protectant on there too
problem cause 3: you accidentally tap the shifter with your thumb (just barely)
my fix: keep thumb away from shifter while riding

Problem: bike feels like assist has dropped during the ride with no bumps
my fix: put assist level down to 3 then back up to level 4/turbo

 

[Haibike Rider]

Could this be an issue with an over sensitive torque sensor? It has to see 4.5Kg of pressure before activating the drive. If your torque sensor is registering too soon, it may make it drop out the drive too early? It looks like you have tried almost everything else!
If you're in the UK and can get the bike to me in Hampshire, I have a torque sensor here we could try?

 

[michaelwoodcock]

Could this be an issue with an over sensitive torque sensor? It has to see 4.5Kg of pressure before activating the drive. If your torque sensor is registering too soon, it may make it drop out the drive too early? It looks like you have tried almost everything else!
If you're in the UK and can get the bike to me in Hampshire, I have a torque sensor here we could try?

thanks for the offer! Unfortunately I'm in usa. I suppose it could be the torque sensor, but I will continue to do my fixes to the problem because there are no dealers or anybody who can service this for many hours drive.

 

[bob armani]

My new wheels arrived; they sent a pair even though I only have a problem with the rear wheel. I have not had a chance to check them for tension and true, but regardless, kudos to the online seller, Random Bike Parts, and Haibike USA for taking care of my warranty issue in a timely manner.

Nova Haibike-Great news tht you had your issue resolved in a timely manner and received a full set. Awesome! I have also done biz with Random, and they seemed pretty reliable. How are the replacement wheels workin out for you. Were they all trued when they arrived?

 

[wildlife365]

thanks for the offer! Unfortunately I'm in usa. I suppose it could be the torque sensor, but I will continue to do my fixes to the problem because there are no dealers or anybody who can service this for many hours drive.

hey michael,
same issues with my urban plus 2017. btw, i don't even use the COBI system. cool for a week then whatever.
now, i have a prob with the chain skipping when in top gear. it could be the derailer is worn, but it seems that it
is an electrical or motor issue. have you experienced anything like this?? it skips, or bangs, every 20 seconds or so...

 

[Sweetwater]

hey michael,
same issues with my urban plus 2017. btw, i don't even use the COBI system. cool for a week then whatever.
now, i have a prob with the chain skipping when in top gear. it could be the derailer is worn, but it seems that it
is an electrical or motor issue. have you experienced anything like this?? it skips, or bangs, every 20 seconds or so...

I had a similar issue that I attributed to the drive system.
A good professional tune-up with a new chain solved it easily.

 

[33red]

Edit/note: After further investigation, it turns out that the difference between ECO and Standard described below is due to regional profiling, which is a common practice in the EU. Even if this explanation satisfies me, I still feel the drive could use a Tour mode.

I have a Trekking Sduro 6.0. The PW-45 drive that equips it is identical to the PW series drive sold in the US (except for the higher 28mph cutoff speed).

There is no Tour mode provided on the PW series, but yet the difference between ECO and Standard modes is pretty sizable. This makes it difficult to get the most out of the battery since ECO is not usable in many situations (traffic, wind, moderate hills, etc.). To extend your range you have to observe the power meter very carefully and constantly switch into ECO at every opportunity. But this has an impact on rider safety. Whilst touring, I've found that my attention is often more focused on battery saving techniques than on the surrounding traffic. All that would be required to fix this is for Haibike/Yamaha to add a Tour mode that offers an intermediate level of assistance in between ECO and Standard modes.

I have a PW 2017 and to avoid looking too much at the panel i did it in safe areas and kind of do the right things without looking at it now. For long range we can downshift when possible, avoid a low cadence and avoid pushing too much on the pedals. The bigger effort we put in the bigger effort it gives back. Try thinking you are on a tandem and your partner is not strong. To work as a team you do not want to push hard fighting the wind nor gravity. You accept to let the speed go down for a portion of your ride. If due to traffic around you you chose to accelerate well you have that option without first having to modify your assist level. The other day i was on flat at 22 km/h and a light uphill change that to 20 on same effort so i went 1 higher assit level and was back at 22 so doing some testing in safe areas we know without looking the results from different modes. Mine has 4 and i can pretty much anticipate my Ebike reaction to my actions. Just use pressure on pedals and cadence and get the results you are looking for and occasionnaly switch modes. There is no need to focus that much on modes in my opinion.