Known Issues & Problems with Giant Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Gbart]

my bike is in a warm and dry office daily! the condensation on the screen so gone many months ago. but the power turn off. i guess i will really need to find a dealer.

I wonder if you just have some oxidation going on in some of the electrical connectors and contacts causing bad contact. If you could get to the wiring pull the connectors apart and try a good electrical contact cleaner on all of them. I’ve seen it where something with low current draw (such as the display) will work fine through a bad connector but as soon as you have high current draw (motor on) the circuit breaks down and it all stops working.

Something like “Servisol Super 10” works very well on connectors because it cleans and provides a protective film. I don’t think it’s available in Canada though and I don’t know of an equivalent right now.

 

[Nomad]

I wonder if you just have some oxidation going on in some of the electrical connectors and contacts causing bad contact. If you could get to the wiring pull the connectors apart and try a good electrical contact cleaner on all of them. I’ve seen it where something with low current draw (such as the display) will work fine through a bad connector but as soon as you have high current draw (motor on) the circuit breaks down and it all stops working.

Something like “Servisol Super 10” works very well on connectors because it cleans and provides a protective film. I don’t think it’s available in Canada though and I don’t know of an equivalent right now.

electric parts spray cleaner is something one should have if you have a Ebike although some connections are bit trick and should be left to the dealer unless some one has shown you how to properly disconnect them. In some cases you need a tool of some sorts.

 

[jonnyo]

electric parts spray cleaner is something one should have if you have a Ebike although some connections are bit trick and should be left to the dealer unless some one has shown you how to properly disconnect them. In some cases you need a tool of some sorts.

the mechanical aspect of the bike dosnt worrie me. it s actually very simple to take the motor off and disconnect the connector. a simple flat head screw driver allow you to safely disconnect each other them without breaking the plastic tab so i have no seen any special tool needed on my bike yet.

my main frustration is we dont have access to the giant diagnostic tool. The bike shop replaced my head unit and i now have a ''Charge'' head unit. But this as not adress in anyway my battery and syncdrive issue so i m still having those. But once again, i know i have those issue but without the diagnostic tool, no clue what sensor or what fault my batterypak is recording.

i like to do all the wrenching on my bikes...but those ebikes dont allow you that and the bike manufacture dont want to give us access to the diagnostic tools.

 

[Nomad]

the mechanical aspect of the bike dosnt worrie me. it s actually very simple to take the motor off and disconnect the connector. a simple flat head screw driver allow you to safely disconnect each other them without breaking the plastic tab so i have no seen any special tool needed on my bike yet.

my main frustration is we dont have access to the giant diagnostic tool. The bike shop replaced my head unit and i now have a ''Charge'' head unit. But this as not adress in anyway my battery and syncdrive issue so i m still having those. But once again, i know i have those issue but without the diagnostic tool, no clue what sensor or what fault my batterypak is recording.

i like to do all the wrenching on my bikes...but those ebikes dont allow you that and the bike manufacture dont want to give us access to the diagnostic tools.

I find that my Giant is a bit touchy sometimes. I swear it's the whole wi-fi thing

 

[jonnyo]

I find that my Giant is a bit touchy sometimes. I swear it's the whole wi-fi thing

well, you might be into something. For the past 3 months..... i get all my ''battterypak effort'' at the SAME EXACT spot in a trail. it s the only place where i get the error and motor turns off. I can ride 2-3-4h and every single time...it happen at the same spot and nowhere else. I so puzzle with this because other then this bug...my big is amazing and reliable!

 

[Nomad]

If you want to see something strange about your bike if you have the basic ridecontrol setup. Take the battery out then hit the on button it will light up for a second

 

[RandallS]

If you want to see something strange about your bike if you have the basic ridecontrol setup. Take the battery out then hit the on button it will light up for a second

Not really strange at all - it's just a Capacitor.
A normal component in this type of electrical assembly.

 

[RandallS]

What are thoughts on this product?
To spray on battery connections on bike and on battery.

Qd Electronic Cleaner. Excellent Precision Cleaning Solvent. Instantly Removes Oil, Grease, Dirt Or Flux From Tape Decks, Radios, Office Equipment, Computer Components, and Other Sensitive Electrical Equipment.

• Instantly penetrates hard-toreach areas to safely dissolve dirt and debris from sensitive electronic components
• Leaves no residue
• Cleans contacts, connectors and sensitive electronic equipment
• Helps prevent contact failure
• Quick drying, plastic safe formula leaves no residue
• Cleans contacts, connectors and sensitive electronic equipment. Helps prevent contact failure
• Quick drying, plastic safe formula

 

[Gbart]

What are thoughts on this product?
To spray on battery connections on bike and on battery.


View attachment 81230

Qd Electronic Cleaner. Excellent Precision Cleaning Solvent. Instantly Removes Oil, Grease, Dirt Or Flux From Tape Decks, Radios, Office Equipment, Computer Components, and Other Sensitive Electrical Equipment.

• Instantly penetrates hard-toreach areas to safely dissolve dirt and debris from sensitive electronic components
• Leaves no residue
• Cleans contacts, connectors and sensitive electronic equipment
• Helps prevent contact failure
• Quick drying, plastic safe formula leaves no residue
• Cleans contacts, connectors and sensitive electronic equipment. Helps prevent contact failure
• Quick drying, plastic safe formula

That should work. I like that it is “plastic safe” although I would still be wary of getting it on the exterior paint finish. Just in case.

 

[Nomad]

What are thoughts on this product?
To spray on battery connections on bike and on battery.


View attachment 81230

Qd Electronic Cleaner. Excellent Precision Cleaning Solvent. Instantly Removes Oil, Grease, Dirt Or Flux From Tape Decks, Radios, Office Equipment, Computer Components, and Other Sensitive Electrical Equipment.

• Instantly penetrates hard-toreach areas to safely dissolve dirt and debris from sensitive electronic components
• Leaves no residue
• Cleans contacts, connectors and sensitive electronic equipment
• Helps prevent contact failure
• Quick drying, plastic safe formula leaves no residue
• Cleans contacts, connectors and sensitive electronic equipment. Helps prevent contact failure
• Quick drying, plastic safe formula

That's what I use works well

 

[RandallS]

That's what I use works well

I pick it up tomorrow, but today no battery errors. Hope that continues and I'll use the stuff anyway. A clean contact is a happy contact!
I've chased too many intermittent errors in electronics to think it won't be back without some kind of intervention, and the impact reset isn't always the best choice.

 

[Nomad]

Not really strange at all - it's just a Capacitor.
A normal component in this type of electrical assembly.

enough with the spock logic of course there is a reason it does it

 

[conix67]

My brand new ROAM E+ appears to have a bearing issue on the rear. I've always though the bike was heavy to pedal without assist due to the weight but it looks like the bearing is playing a role here. If I lift the rear and gently spin the wheel, it rotates about 1 1/2 turn and stops. Front will rotate for more than 10 turns easily. First noticed this while changing tire recently. Rotating the axle by hand was very difficult and feels gritty (not smooth). However, if I hold the axle and let the wheel rotate, it's easier than rotating the axle with the wheel being stationary.

I'm wondering if the bearing is damaged or require adjustment. I couldn't figure out of this wheel has cone/cup bearings or sealed bearings. This model is similar to Explorer E+, web site lists Giant eTracker, [F] 100x9mm QR [R] 135mm QR. Explorer Pro spec lists "sealed bearing" along with the same description.

I will definitely contact my local dealer on Monday about this and find out what they can do to fix this. However, I just don't have much fate in their ability in correcting issues at this point. I definitely would like to see my bike's essential components function as expected. Unnecessary drag caused by bad bearing will definitely impact power assist range and make it more difficult to ride without power.

 

[Nomad]

My brand new ROAM E+ appears to have a bearing issue on the rear. I've always though the bike was heavy to pedal without assist due to the weight but it looks like the bearing is playing a role here. If I lift the rear and gently spin the wheel, it rotates about 1 1/2 turn and stops. Front will rotate for more than 10 turns easily. First noticed this while changing tire recently. Rotating the axle by hand was very difficult and feels gritty (not smooth). However, if I hold the axle and let the wheel rotate, it's easier than rotating the axle with the wheel being stationary.

I'm wondering if the bearing is damaged or require adjustment. I couldn't figure out of this wheel has cone/cup bearings or sealed bearings. This model is similar to Explorer E+, web site lists Giant eTracker, [F] 100x9mm QR [R] 135mm QR. Explorer Pro spec lists "sealed bearing" along with the same description.

I will definitely contact my local dealer on Monday about this and find out what they can do to fix this. However, I just don't have much fate in their ability in correcting issues at this point. I definitely would like to see my bike's essential components function as expected. Unnecessary drag caused by bad bearing will definitely impact power assist range and make it more difficult to ride without power.

take the rear wheel off Look to see if it's got a thin nuts that locks up against the other most likely you have cones.

 

[conix67]

take the rear wheel off Look to see if it's got a thin nuts that locks up against the other most likely you have cones.

I did notice there's a thin nut on one side (disc brake side, not the cassette side). I was able to unscrew it by hand and I was thinking that should not be possible if it was fastened to hold the other screw in place for the bearings.

The more I dig into this bicycle, I feel like it was put together by someone who has no knowledge about bicycles. I certainly don't know about bicycles much but things I find so far doesn't seem like something I expect from a big brand like Giant.

 

[Nomad]

I did notice there's a thin nut on one side (disc brake side, not the cassette side). I was able to unscrew it by hand and I was thinking that should not be possible if it was fastened to hold the other screw in place for the bearings.

The more I dig into this bicycle, I feel like it was put together by someone who has no knowledge about bicycles. I certainly don't know about bicycles much but things I find so far doesn't seem like something I expect from a big brand like Giant.

Take it to the dealer Giant takes care of customers they may be slow at times but they should take care of you

 

[conix67]

Take it to the dealer Giant takes care of customers they may be slow at times but they should take care of you

That's what I will try to do. Past experiences with my local dealer hasn't been all that positive which is what concerns me. Other locations are just too far from my place.

 

[conix67]

Second day of trying to reach my local dealer for service. Their phone line is either busy or no one is receiving the call so it goes to the voice mail which starts with "Do not leave a message". Due to covid-19 restrictions, can't visit the store in person. Can't leave a message. Phone call's not answered. Email requests don't get replied to.

Actually, I finally did get through to speak to someone (sales guy) yesterday afternoon, and I was asked to call back today since the service manager was not in.

Sorry for the rant, but this is the reality I'm facing. I'm sure if I'm buying a new bike now, they will be all over it.

 

[jabberwocky]

Thats frustrating for sure. Hard to tell whats going on; first thought is just that your local shop sucks service-wise, but its possible that they are just overwhelmed (a lot of shops have been hit hard over the pandemic with difficulty getting parts, long service hours and not enough employees).

For the wheel, it sounds like a tight cup-and-cone hub, which is a simple fix if you know what you're doing. The hub body is the inner race for loose ball bearings, and the outer race is threaded on the axle. If preload is too tight the wheel doesn't turn freely. One thing to check is to remove the wheel from the bike and see if it spins easier. If it does, its almost certainly an over-tight cup and cone hub (clamping the skewer tightens things up; proper tightness off the bike is slightly loose so once the skewer is clamped the bearing is at proper preload).

Fixing it just needs a cone wrench, or some sort of adjustable crescent wrench can sometimes do it. Hold the inner part still and loosen the outer race 1/8 a turn or so and then put the wheel back in and clamp it down and see how it spins.

 

[conix67]

Thats frustrating for sure. Hard to tell whats going on; first thought is just that your local shop sucks service-wise, but its possible that they are just overwhelmed (a lot of shops have been hit hard over the pandemic with difficulty getting parts, long service hours and not enough employees).

For the wheel, it sounds like a tight cup-and-cone hub, which is a simple fix if you know what you're doing. The hub body is the inner race for loose ball bearings, and the outer race is threaded on the axle. If preload is too tight the wheel doesn't turn freely. One thing to check is to remove the wheel from the bike and see if it spins easier. If it does, its almost certainly an over-tight cup and cone hub (clamping the skewer tightens things up; proper tightness off the bike is slightly loose so once the skewer is clamped the bearing is at proper preload).

Fixing it just needs a cone wrench, or some sort of adjustable crescent wrench can sometimes do it. Hold the inner part still and loosen the outer race 1/8 a turn or so and then put the wheel back in and clamp it down and see how it spins.

Yes, first of all I wanted to know if my bike has cup and cone or sealed bearing. The sales guy I was able to speak to didn't want to tell me for some reason, I suspect he does not know. If it's cup and cone, it's adjustable but I'm not able to get to it to inspect, since I need a real 15mm cone wrench for this. I looked it up on Amazon, none available with prime shipping in Canada, and it's a specialized tool so local hardware stores don't carry it. I might try 3D printing an object that looks like the wrench, and it might even work.

Anyway, getting back to your comment, I noticed the condition of bearing only after the wheel was removed. It is super tight, nearly impossible to rotate the axle held with two fingers and you can feel it's "gritty" as it rotates. What makes me angry is that I believe it's been this way all along. I don't know who puts together these bicycles but I believe they are factory assembled. The front wheel is much better but I can still feel the "grit", meaning it might still be too tight as well.

I also have a suspicion this might be the reason I was getting flat tires so easily.

If the 3D printed wrench fails, I will be forced to wait for my local shop to help out. I certainly do not want to ride the bike as is knowing the condition of the bearing.