Known Issues & Problems with Eahora Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Thanks!! I'll give this a go later today.
I checked the CUR setting in advanced mode and it was set to 20. So I bumped it up to 22.5 (25 is the max). There was some slight noticeable difference in what I'd call "thrust" when moving from PAS-1 to PAS-2, and PAS-2 to PAS-3. But I still don't have a complete understanding of the CUR value and it's intended effect. I was hesitant to change CUR to the max setting, to avoid any possible damage to the motor from any sustained current at that level.

Some other tweaks (non-controller) are in the works:

-Installed a riser for the handlebar because my right hand was getting numb after 10 miles or so. To be tested today after installing last evening. Reports and reviews for this mod say it will eliminate the numbness and provide a more upright riding position

-Handlebar end rearview mirror (obviously a must for riding in bike paths or roads)

-Seat post shock absorber (my XC100 has no rear suspension--this will help smooth the ride over bumps)

-Replacement seat (for my big ass) - chose a Selle Royal Elastomer Gel Saddle from the UK. Awaiting delivery from England

-Replace tires with Maxxis Hookworm 26x2.5 (already purchased, not yet installed)

I will report on these mods after some long rides. My rides have been limited to about 25 miles so far due to discomfort of the seat and hand numbness. Hoping these mods will increase rides to 35+ miles.
 
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I checked the CUR setting in advanced mode and it was set to 20. So I bumped it up to 22.5 (25 is the max). There was some slight noticeable difference in what I'd call "thrust" when moving from PAS-1 to PAS-2, and PAS-2 to PAS-3. But I still don't have a complete understanding of the CUR value and it's intended effect. I was hesitant to change CUR to the max setting, to avoid any possible damage to the motor from any sustained current at that level.

Some other tweaks (non-controller) are in the works:

-Installed a riser for the handlebar because my right hand was getting numb after 10 miles or so. To be tested today after installing last evening. Reports and reviews for this mod say it will eliminate the numbness and provide a more upright riding position

-Handlebar end rearview mirror (obviously a must for riding in bike paths or roads)

-Seat post shock absorber (my XC100 has no rear suspension--this will help smooth the ride over bumps)

-Replacement seat (for my big ass) - chose a Selle Royal Elastomer Gel Saddle from the UK. Awaiting delivery from England

-Replace tires with Maxxis Hookworm 26x2.5 (already purchased, not yet installed)

I will report on these mods after some long rides. My rides have been limited to about 25 miles so far due to discomfort of the seat and hand numbness. Hoping these mods will increase rides to 35+ miles.

On my bike CUR only affects the power available when using the throttle. It did not help with any of the PAS modes.

I changed the handlebar stem, too, to give me a more upright ride.

I use a helmet mounted rear view mirror. Feel half blind with it.

The AM100 has full suspension, so no need for seat mod, though I did change out the saddle to a Serfas similar to my road bike...no sense making my butt get used to two different saddle shapes!

I was thinking the same thing about the tires. Since I use the bike more on streets and dirt roads, I don't need the wider tires. I am thinking of going to 2 inch tires which will have greatly reduced rolling resistance.

Today's update: rode up a very steep hill today and almost had to get off the bike and walk. I alternated between throttle and PAS. It is really sad that I can almost ride as fast in throttle mode as PAS. You would think that motor + pedaling would be much faster, but not so. The assist level in PAS modes is limited to 6 Ah while throttle assist will increase to 18 Ah.
 
On my bike CUR only affects the power available when using the throttle. It did not help with any of the PAS modes.

I changed the handlebar stem, too, to give me a more upright ride.

I use a helmet mounted rear view mirror. Feel half blind with it.

The AM100 has full suspension, so no need for seat mod, though I did change out the saddle to a Serfas similar to my road bike...no sense making my butt get used to two different saddle shapes!

I was thinking the same thing about the tires. Since I use the bike more on streets and dirt roads, I don't need the wider tires. I am thinking of going to 2 inch tires which will have greatly reduced rolling resistance.

Today's update: rode up a very steep hill today and almost had to get off the bike and walk. I alternated between throttle and PAS. It is really sad that I can almost ride as fast in throttle mode as PAS. You would think that motor + pedaling would be much faster, but not so. The assist level in PAS modes is limited to 6 Ah while throttle assist will increase to 18 Ah.
Hi Slo,

Yeah, the CUR is kinda confusing to me. So be it...still learning about this bike and the display/controller. BTW, the "power meter" on my YL80C display never seems to go much higher than the 9 o'clock position. Is that meter a measure of the Ah (amp hours)? I'll set my display to show Ah on my next ride to see if it corresponds to the power meter reading.

My seat replacement will be here Friday. I already tried another seat but it's not wide enough for my sit bones. I alternate wearing padded biking shorts and without, sometimes the padded shorts help and at other times it doesn't seem to make much difference. The Selle touring seat may answer once/for all.

The handlebar riser helped my right-hand numbness considerably after a 23-mile ride yesterday. Not completely eliminated, but much improved.

I swapped the eAhora pedals with my wife's Schwinn Meridian trike since hers were a tad wider.

The suspension seat post was too small--returning it for a Satori 4-bar link suspension post (good reviews here on EBR). Unfortunately it is out of stock until late August. But a bargain at $59.

Will probably replace the tires after reaching 500 miles (@ 220 now, after 2 weeks of owning my XC100). The tire width will go from 2.125 to 2.5, but the tread pattern is smooth vs. small "knobbies" on the bike as delivered. I expect a quieter ride and the rolling resistance to be lessened, despite the slight increase in tread contact.

Thanks for checking in--your updates help us all in fine-tuning our ebikes.

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Hi Slo,

Yeah, the CUR is kinda confusing to me. So be it...still learning about this bike and the display/controller. BTW, the "power meter" on my YL80C display never seems to go much higher than the 9 o'clock position. Is that meter a measure of the Ah (amp hours)? I'll set my display to show Ah on my next ride to see if it corresponds to the power meter reading.

My seat replacement will be here Friday. I already tried another seat but it's not wide enough for my sit bones. I alternate wearing padded biking shorts and without, sometimes the padded shorts help and at other times it doesn't seem to make much difference. The Selle touring seat may answer once/for all.

The handlebar riser helped my right-hand numbness considerably after a 23-mile ride yesterday. Not completely eliminated, but much improved.

I swapped the eAhora pedals with my wife's Schwinn Meridian trike since hers were a tad wider.

The suspension seat post was too small--returning it for a Satori 4-bar link suspension post (good reviews here on EBR). Unfortunately it is out of stock until late August. But a bargain at $59.

Will probably replace the tires after reaching 500 miles (@ 220 now, after 2 weeks of owning my XC100). The tire width will go from 2.125 to 2.5, but the tread pattern is smooth vs. small "nobbies" on the bike as delivered. I expect a quieter ride and the rolling resistance to be lessened, despite the slight increase in tread contact.

Thanks for checking in--your updates help us all in fine-tuning our ebikes.

View attachment 62103

Hey zzRider,

What seat is that? I bought the wikktop bicycle saddle for city bikes off amazon, and it wasn't that comfortable. So, I'm trying to find a comfortable seat as well.

Was the mirror easy to install, did you have to drill a hole? I just ordered a similar mirror.

Thanks for the update!
 
Hey zzRider,

What seat is that? I bought the wikktop bicycle saddle for city bikes off amazon, and it wasn't that comfortable. So, I'm trying to find a comfortable seat as well.

Was the mirror easy to install, did you have to drill a hole? I just ordered a similar mirror.

Thanks for the update!
Here are the links to the seat and mirror on Amazon. I am replacing the seat with a Selle (the 3rd link).
There is a video on the mirror link that shows how it installs--5 minute job, no drilling required, just remove the end cap from the handlebar. You will need an allen/hex tool to tighten, although a small screwdriver might also work.



 
Hi Slo,

Yeah, the CUR is kinda confusing to me. So be it...still learning about this bike and the display/controller. BTW, the "power meter" on my YL80C display never seems to go much higher than the 9 o'clock position. Is that meter a measure of the Ah (amp hours)? I'll set my display to show Ah on my next ride to see if it corresponds to the power meter reading.

My seat replacement will be here Friday. I already tried another seat but it's not wide enough for my sit bones. I alternate wearing padded biking shorts and without, sometimes the padded shorts help and at other times it doesn't seem to make much difference. The Selle touring seat may answer once/for all.

The handlebar riser helped my right-hand numbness considerably after a 23-mile ride yesterday. Not completely eliminated, but much improved.

I swapped the eAhora pedals with my wife's Schwinn Meridian trike since hers were a tad wider.

The suspension seat post was too small--returning it for a Satori 4-bar link suspension post (good reviews here on EBR). Unfortunately it is out of stock until late August. But a bargain at $59.

Will probably replace the tires after reaching 500 miles (@ 220 now, after 2 weeks of owning my XC100). The tire width will go from 2.125 to 2.5, but the tread pattern is smooth vs. small "knobbies" on the bike as delivered. I expect a quieter ride and the rolling resistance to be lessened, despite the slight increase in tread contact.

Thanks for checking in--your updates help us all in fine-tuning our ebikes.

View attachment 62103

ZZ,

Here's my latest configuration with all its mods and accessories:
  • Serfas seat
  • Pivoting handlebar stem
  • Phone holder and USB cord
  • Taillight
  • Topeak MTX bag and rack
  • Clipless hybrid pedals (one side flat, the other spd)
  • IMG_20200815_182258.jpgIMG_20200815_182324.jpgIMG_20200815_182404.jpg
 
ZZ,

Here's my latest configuration with all its mods and accessories:
Nice! Interesting that your throttle is on the left side whereas mine is on the right. Your shifter looks different from mine as well. Are you using the USB port on the battery for your phone? Just wonder how many watts that draws.

My Selle seat is much improved over the 2nd seat I tried, but no seat is perfect, I suppose.

I'm pretty much done with accessories for now, but am waiting for the suspension seat post. This is the taillight I got and it's working well--it has a blue/red flashing option in addition to the white but I'm hesitant to use mode that since it could be seen as impersonating a police bike!


Also I still have the Maxxis Hookworm tires to put on.

I tried this bike cam but it is kinda flakey--can't tell when it's on and recording, and Amazon stopped selling it. Would be perfect since it has an internal battery and it's very small, but still 1080p.


Haven't changed any of the PAS settings because I'm satisfied so far with the settings as delivered, but I do need to go into the advanced mode out of curiosity to see what they are.
 
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I'm pretty much done with accessories for now, but am waiting for the suspension seat post.

Haven't changed any of the PAS settings because I'm satisfied so far with the settings as delivered, but I do need to go into the advanced mode out of curiosity to see what they are.
So I finally got into the PAS settings and found they were set to: PAS1-56%, PAS2-78%, PAS3-99%. The Yolin YL80C manual lists the defaults as 50%, 74%, and 92%, so the factory obviously is bumping them up, probably to have the ebike delivered with maximum power at PAS3. I changed these settings to 55%, 75%, and left PAS3 at 99%.

I noticed a slight difference while on PAS2, which was is the "sweet spot" for most of my riding, and now have a bit more resistance pedaling at that PAS level, giving me a little more workout.

On a disappointing note, the Satori Animaris suspension seat post arrived and it is too big to fit in the seat post tube on the XC100, by about 0.5 mm. Satori only makes this post in 27.2 / 30.9 / 31.6 sizes. I bought the 30.9 one but it seems my seat post tube is more like 30.4. I don't want to force it into the tube because the aluminum frame could split. I am considering taking this Satori to a machine shop and having it lathed down.

I've ready returned one suspension seat post (different brand) to Amazon and really want this Satori to fit because it has good reviews and is the only one I could find @ $60 that is comparable to others that cost 3-4 times as much.
 
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So I finally got into the PAS settings and found they were set to: PAS1-56%, PAS2-78%, PAS3-99%. The Yolin YL80C manual lists the defaults as 50%, 74%, and 92%, so the factory obviously is bumping them up, probably to have the ebike delivered with maximum power at PAS3. I changed these settings to 55%, 75%, and left PAS3 at 99%.

I noticed a slight difference while on PAS2, which was is the "sweet spot" for most of my riding, and now have a bit more resistance pedaling at that PAS level, giving me a little more workout.

On a disappointing note, the Satori Animaris suspension seat post arrived and it is too big to fit in the seat post tube on the XC100, by about 0.5 mm. Satori only makes this post in 27.2 / 30.9 / 31.6 sizes. I bought the 30.9 one but it seems my seat post tube is more like 30.4. I don't want to force it into the tube because the aluminum frame could split. I am considering taking this Satori to a machine shop and having it lathed down.

I've ready returned one suspension seat post (different brand) to Amazon and really want this Satori to fit because it has good reviews and is the only one I could find @ $60 that is comparable to others that cost 3-4 times as much.

ZZ,

You've entered the brave new world of personalization settings!;) As I posted earlier, my main complaint was the surging at low speeds, so I solved that by taking PAS1 all the way down to 40%. And by going to 5 modes, I have much better speed control over the available range. My sweet spot is also 75%, which for me is in PAS3.

Sorry to hear about the seat post. I'd be very hesitant to reduce the thickness of your seat post. Seems like you are setting yourself up for disaster. Seat posts can break, even when they are not lathed down. Google "broken seat post" and you will find a few horror stories. Here's just one:" A friend brought me his bike tonight. The seat post broke off, snapped fully through, right below the seat clamp. He took a hard spill, may have broken his wrist. Scary stuff."
 
Sorry to hear about the seat post. I'd be very hesitant to reduce the thickness of your seat post. Seems like you are setting yourself up for disaster. Seat posts can break, even when they are not lathed down. Google "broken seat post" and you will find a few horror stories. Here's just one:" A friend brought me his bike tonight. The seat post broke off, snapped fully through, right below the seat clamp. He took a hard spill, may have broken his wrist. Scary stuff."
Yeah, I know the dangers. There is a professional high-end machine shop nearby. I will ask them their opinion of retaining the integrity of the post if only 0.5mm is lathed off. That is a very thin layer. But I agree it's risky. The other option is to find the 27.9 and get a shim, but I don't particularly like that idea either.
 
ZZ,

You've entered the brave new world of personalization settings!;) As I posted earlier, my main complaint was the surging at low speeds, so I solved that by taking PAS1 all the way down to 40%. And by going to 5 modes, I have much better speed control over the available range. My sweet spot is also 75%, which for me is in PAS3.
Slo, I ventured into advanced settings when resetting the CUR, so I've been there a few times. It makes sense for you to have 5 PAS settings since you do trail riding, whereas my ebiking is only on pavement, so for now 3 PAS levels works for me.
 
Yeah, I know the dangers. There is a professional high-end machine shop nearby. I will ask them their opinion of retaining the integrity of the post if only 0.5mm is lathed off. That is a very thin layer. But I agree it's risky. The other option is to find the 27.9 and get a shim, but I don't particularly like that idea either.
A closer measurement revealed I have a 30.2 seat post, not 30.4, so cannot lathe down from 30.9 to 30.2. (Didn't bother going to a machine shop--common sense prevailed 🦉.)

Returning the 30.9 and getting a 27.2 and Cane Creek shim. Will let you know how it works. Should arrive Saturday.
 
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I bought an AM100 a few weeks ago. Here's my review on Amazon:

I have put almost 200 miles on the bike and have many good things to say, but a couple major complaints. First, the good:
PROS:
1. Great range! With practice and battery management skills, I'm sure you can get over 70 miles on a full charge. My first effort at 52 miles ended with still 2/5 bars showing (see photo). My latest trip was 43 miles with 3/5 bars left.
2. Great value. At $1,399, this is a lot of bike for the money.
3. Battery recharges on downhill rides! This is really fun, especially for me, an electric vehicle nerd. I love the way my EV recharges when coasting or braking. Now my bike does it, too. It also allows you to add to your workout. If you pedal while going downhill, it increases the charge rate while increasing your heart rate!
4. The battery has a USB outlet. No more dead cellphones!
5. Relatively light. Most large e-bikes can weigh 70 or 80 pounds. This one is under 50 with the battery removed. This is important for my bike carrier which is rated to 50 lbs.
6. Operates with throttle or peddle-assist. The throttle is really nice for starting up from a stoplight. It takes a couple cranks to get the assist going without it, so getting going by throttle really helps.
7. This bike can go fast on the flat. It cruises very comfortably with normal pedaling effort at 25 mph.
8. Tools needed for assembly were included... but no assembly instructions...which leads me to the....
CONS:
1. No paperwork included with the shipment. No assembly instructions, user manual, safety warnings, etc. Is that even legal? If you have never assembled a bike before, you'll probably need some help or at least find a good youtube video. There is an online user manual on the eahora website for the electric operation, but it is not particularly well written and contains some errors.
2. Some adjustments need to be made to make this comfortable. Not all the tools needed for those adjustments are included, so you need a good set of bike tools, especially allen wrenches. The gear shift thumb lever, for example, interferes with the grips, so I had to move it a couple inches to the left on the handlebar.
3. The motor has a mind of its own. It surges sporadically, sometimes when you don't want it. For example, I was turning sharply at a slow speed in a confined space when the motor kicked in, almost sending me crashing into a wall. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE CORRECTED. There are many adjustments that can be made on this bike, but the online instructions tell the user to contact customer support. I've done so. We'll see what they can do.
4. Because of the surging problem, this bike SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR MOUNTAIN TRAIL RIDING. MTB trails require careful control of speed, effort and direction. As this bike is sold to be used for trail riding, this is a major problem. If I had bought this bike for trail riding, I probably would have given it 1 star. I will use it primarily for pavement, gravel and dirt roads and flat trails.
5. The motor is not very powerful when going up hills. I am a pretty strong rider, so this is not a real issue with me, but it does take work getting up a hill. The power assist is certainly helpful, but underwhelming.

Would I buy this bike again, knowing what I know now? Probably not. But if customer service can correct the surge problem, I would change that to a yes.

August 1 UPDATE: Tech support was not very helpful. I sent them videos illustrating the problem but they said this is normal. So I decided to make some adjustments myself and was pleasantly surprised to find how easy the adjustments are. I was able to reduce but not eliminate the surging problem. I raised my rating to 4 stars, but if I could rate customer support separately, it would be 2 stars.

The adjustment I made was to change the default power levels from 3 to 5 levels and set the power levels to 45/60/75/85/98. The surging problem was most noticeable at lower speeds. The factory setting for Level 1 was 56, so lowering the power boost on that level to 45 has greatly helped.

Hi,
Thank you for all your post about this bike.
I am on the verge of purchasing the Ebike. Can you pls tell me what the standover height is? I got a reply in Amazon that it is 28 1/4” but then i read in the forum here that it is 33”.

Can you please confirm the actual Standover height? I am 5’5” and i want to be able to stand on the ground when im off the seat.
 
Hi,
Thank you for all your post about this bike.
I am on the verge of purchasing the Ebike. Can you pls tell me what the standover height is? I got a reply in Amazon that it is 28 1/4” but then i read in the forum here that it is 33”.

Can you please confirm the actual Standover height? I am 5’5” and i want to be able to stand on the ground when im off the seat.

It depends on how you adjust your seat. I moved my seat forward to be closer to the handlebars and be more upright, so my standover height with the seat in that position is around 32". I am 5' 10" and it is perfect for me. But I think this bike will be way too big for you. If you do want a more bent over ride position, you could move the seat back and the standover height would be around 30", but that would make for a long reach to the handlebars for you.

If I were using this bike for mountain trails, it would be too big for me, according to REI:

Mountain Bike Standover Height

Thought it's not used as frequently as it once was to size bikes, standover height can still be an indicator of whether or not a bike fits you.

First, make sure you can straddle your bike with your feet flat on the floor. When you lift a mountain bike, you want 2" minimum clearance between the tires and the ground. This allows you to be comfortable getting off the saddle for quick dismounts on the trail. It is not unusual for aggressive riders to seek out 3" to 5" of clearance. Be sure to wear your cycling shoes when evaluating standover height, since they may affect your overall leg length.

Keep in mind that the amount of clearance is largely affected by the slope of the top tube down toward the rear wheel. For example, if the slope is dramatic, you'll likely have ample clearance no matter what size the frame is. Because of this, you can't rely solely on standover clearance to determine if a bike fits.
 
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One “Upgrade” though that i initially planned is to remove the stem bar so that the riding position will be more upright. Perhaps with this, the reach will also be better without putting the seat forward.

How i wish that i can find an AM100 owner near me.
 
One “Upgrade” though that i initially planned is to remove the stem bar so that the riding position will be more upright. Perhaps with this, the reach will also be better without putting the seat forward.

How i wish that i can find an AM100 owner near me.

Did you see the stem that I have to replace the original? Even with that short stem, I need the seat all the way forward to ride upright. Is there a reason you are not interested in the smaller (and cheaper) XC100? I think it would fit you better. The main difference is the that the XC100 does not have rear suspension, only 7 gears instead of 9, and smaller tires. The eAhora webiste states that the AM100 is best for riders 5' 7" and taller. The XC 100 is for 5' 5" and up. https://www.eahoraebike.com/products/eahora-xc100-e-pas-mountain-electirc-bike
 
Did you see the stem that I have to replace the original? Even with that short stem, I need the seat all the way forward to ride upright. Is there a reason you are not interested in the smaller (and cheaper) XC100? I think it would fit you better. The main difference is the that the XC100 does not have rear suspension, only 7 gears instead of 9, and smaller tires. The eAhora webiste states that the AM100 is best for riders 5' 7" and taller. The XC 100 is for 5' 5" and up. https://www.eahoraebike.com/products/eahora-xc100-e-pas-mountain-electirc-bike

I thought the Full Suspension would be better for the trail rides i plan to do. But then again, i havent used a hard tail in those trails. I guess it would be great plan then to test out the HT on those trails.
 
I thought the Full Suspension would be better for the trail rides i plan to do. But then again, i havent used a hard tail in those trails. I guess it would be great plan then to test out the HT on those trails.

I am not a trail rider, so can't speak to the AM 100 suitability on trails, but I think it is really important to get a bike that fits you. The AM 100 is really big.
 
I am not a trail rider, so can't speak to the AM 100 suitability on trails, but I think it is really important to get a bike that fits you. The AM 100 is really big.
If you put a suspension seat post on the XC100, as I recently did, it gives some relief to bumps, but obviously not as well as a full rear suspension MTB. (BTW, the 27.2 Satori Animaris and 30.2 Cane Creek shim fit my XC100 like a glove.)
 
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