Kickstand mounting bolts stripped

[Tars Tarkas]

This is not the same thing but the same concept regarding the repair. I couldn't place a kickstand on this bike because the motor was in the way. So I drilled the coaster brake torque arm and tapped it with threads. I screwed it down and then put aviation nuts on the back to lock it. You could tap it larger and use longer screws with nuts on the inside.

Necessity is the mother of invention I guess. Can't say I like that solution, but sometimes you just do what you have to do.

TT

 

[PCeBiker]

There are also recessed nuts and bolts available that might work.

The bolt could be installed from the other side and needs very little clearance.

 

[Sparky731]

see trek made an indentation for the nuts. trek kicks specialized butt

Yes! My Allant has the hex-head indentation on the wheel-side. The bolt and nut combo is the solution.
Thanks for everyone’s comments and advice.

Repair got slightly more complicated when I removed the front “slipping” bolt only to find out it was instead broken off within the frame. Buggers!

 

[PedalUma]

from the other side

My thought exactly! broken bolts or screws can be removed with a drill. Good news. That is easier than re-tapping.

 

[PCeBiker]

My thought exactly! broken bolts or screws can be removed with a drill. Good news. That is easier than re-tapping.

And aluminum threads aren't the strongest, especially if there isn't much "meat" to thread.

 

[PedalUma]

Getting a nylon lined nut on the outside would be perfect. Lock it down. Almost all my bikes have kickstands. It is so much more practical. Weight weenies be dammed. I want a bike that fits the everyday.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Yes! My Allant has the hex-head indentation on the wheel-side. The bolt and nut combo is the solution.
Thanks for everyone’s comments and advice.

Repair got slightly more complicated when I removed the front “slipping” bolt only to find out it was instead broken off within the frame. Buggers!

ya that was the same as mine but it was fixed under warranty and thats when he extracted the bolt and used bolts and nuts.

 

[PedalUma]

It is like $7 for a kit. If you use it 4 times in 5-years, that is a good deal.

 

[PCeBiker]

Almost all my bikes have kickstands. It is so much more practical. Weight weenies be dammed. I want a bike that fits the everyday.

I wanted to get a center stand for my fat tire ebike, but the only option was a center stand where both legs go to the left so that they clear the fat tire and the chain ring.
My center mounted single leg side stand isn't centered on the bike. It's offset to allow the kickstand to clear the fat tire.




The two leg center stands that fold to one side are quite expensive and a lot of people said that they broke apart in no time, even though they are rated up to 80 pounds, so I gave up.
My ebike is just gonna have to lean.

 

[PCeBiker]

View attachment 149608 It is like $7 for a kit. If you use it 4 times in 5-years, that is a good deal.

Drilling the hole in the broken stainless steel stud for the easy-out is a PITA.
If you slip off the stud, you drill through ½" of aluminum in half a second.

It's best to start with a center punch, then a tiny drill bit, and progressively bigger drill bits.

Then you break the easy-out off in the stud, because you cheaped out and bought crappy easy-outs and used the smallest one because you were too lazy to drill a bigger hole.

Then you give up and rely on the remaining bolts to hold everything together.


If your broken stud is stainless steel, you might need carbide drill bits to drill into the stud.

 

[Sparky731]

ya that was the same as mine but it was fixed under warranty and thats when he extracted the bolt and used bolts and nuts.

I will check with Trek 800 Tech Support first, then if they agree, then my local dealer. Thanks!

 

[Sparky731]

Drilling the hole in the broken stainless steel stud for the easy-out is a PITA.
If you slip off the stud, you drill through ½" of aluminum in half a second.

It's best to start with a center punch, then a tiny drill bit, and progressively bigger drill bits.

Then you break the easy-out off in the stud, because you cheaped out and bought crappy easy-outs and used the smallest one because you were too lazy to drill a bigger hole.

Then you give up and rely on the remaining bolts to hold everything together.


If your broken stud is stainless steel, you might need carbide drill bits to drill into the stud.

You make the job sound like so much fun!! Can’t wait to get started.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I will check with Trek 800 Tech Support first, then if they agree, then my local dealer. Thanks!

I have a great shop so that helps.

 

[fooferdoggie]

You make the job sound like so much fun!! Can’t wait to get started.

ya something I dont want to do. its not that easy without practice.

 

[PCeBiker]

Yes! My Allant has the hex-head indentation on the wheel-side.

If you have a hex-head indentation on the wheel-side, your aluminum frame may not be threaded.
That stud might just push right out?

Check the bolt that isn't broken and see if the bolt hole is threaded or if it's just a hole where a threaded insert goes on the other side.

 

[PCeBiker]

ya something I dont want to do. its not that easy without practice.

I practiced on my valve cover of my car.
I finally gave up after all that mess and I noticed that my drill chuck was rubbing against my fuel injector wires and almost wore right through the wires.

Time to say "leave well enough alone".
My valve cover never leaked. There's 7 other bolts to hold it on.

 

[MWRider]

Drilling the hole in the broken stainless steel stud for the easy-out is a PITA.
If you slip off the stud, you drill through ½" of aluminum in half a second.

It's best to start with a center punch, then a tiny drill bit, and progressively bigger drill bits.

Then you break the easy-out off in the stud, because you cheaped out and bought crappy easy-outs and used the smallest one because you were too lazy to drill a bigger hole.

Then you give up and rely on the remaining bolts to hold everything together.


If your broken stud is stainless steel, you might need carbide drill bits to drill into the stud.

If you are drilling a stainless steel bolt, center punch first, using slow spindle speed, smaller drill bit and cutting fluid (oil) to keep it from work hardening. Gradually work up in drill bit size until you get close to the threads. Then use a square type easy-out. Free All penetrating oil helps. This is good stuff.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/free-all/chemicals---fluids/maintenance-chemicals/grease---lube/penetrating---fogging-oil/66125cac49f7/free-all-0-95-lbs-penetrating-oil/fal0/re12

 

[Marcela]

Don't forget there are left hand drill bits, kind of an easy out drill bit in one.

 

[MWRider]

You could also use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to grind a screwdriver slot in the stud. Or a small chisel and hammer around the periphery of the stud to rotate it CCW.

 

[Mr. Coffee]

This seems to be a recurring design problem, especially with carbon and aluminum frames. Even very high-end frames often have kickstand mounts added in as an afterthought. And if the bolts aren't kept tight you can destroy your frame.