Calipers That Will Not Adjust Straight

[PedalUma]

Don't give me no lip!
There is an arrow on the caliper adaptor bridge. It points up. The thicker side goes where the rotor is closest.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Lipping is normal. A disc with wear will have lipping. On a car, if specs show that lipping is excessive, it can be ground off.

After removing a caliper, I realized I didn't know which way the spacer went. The brake was bedded in but showed no wear. I mounted it with the spacer one way, painted a sector of the disc with a red felt marker, and took a ride. I reversed the spacer, repainted the disc, and took another ride. The pad didn't cover the whole "braking band" with the spacer either way. That means lipping is inevitable. If I feel it one day, I'll take it as a warning that my disc has worn too thin.

Do give me

Don't give me no lip!
There is an arrow on the caliper adaptor bridge. It points up.

Ha ha ha... I was half way thru posting the same when you did.

 

[PedalUma]

@BlackHand can triple stack 5mm O-rings to improve alignment and torque. It will also help keep water out.

 

[PCeBiker]

Something is off, most likely the mount but it could also be the spacer, the caliper... Or perhaps a micron on each.

I'm thinking that it might be done on purpose?
If the pads ended up sticking out further than the edge of the rotor, you'd end up with lips on the pads that would eventually touch and prevent the pads from squeezing the rotor.

I'm thinking that they just wanted to make sure the pads are always completely on the rotors?

If you can't readily buy what you need and you can figure out the thickness you can fabricate a spacer out of some aluminum bar.. this way one piece mounts with both bolts

It would be difficult for me to try and fabricate a complete spacer.

I'm thinking that the 1.5 mm thick washers should be enough to get my pads out to the edge of the rotor?

The washers have the same outside diameter as the post (12mm) and the threads of the caliper bolt will just fit in the washer (6mm), so the caliper should be fully supported squarely on the post.

It's not the best place to insert a washer but the washer will completely cover the post so it should have full contact without binding anywhere.

The washer in the picture is part of the caliper bolt, and isn't removable.
It hits the threads of the bolt to keep it on the bolt.
The unthreaded part of the bolt is 5.5mm and the threaded part is 6mm.

 

[spokewrench]

Don't give me no lip!
There is an arrow on the caliper adaptor bridge. It points up. The thicker side goes where the rotor is closest.

That's why I hadn't had trouble in the past. In this case, the arrow was horizontal. I finally realized that to install it correctly, I needed to hang the bike by its front wheel so the arrow would point up.

 

[Marcela]

If you are hard on rotors and they warp you can get them heat treated, or maybe do it yourself. I bought some larger rotors a while back and they were prewarped. I don't know if they can make the rotors completely flat, haven't seen enough of them yet.

 

[PCeBiker]

Lipping is normal.

That's what I thought but just because it's normal doesn't mean that it's the best way to do things.

After removing a caliper, I realized I didn't know which way the spacer went.

The caliper needs to "roll" out further at one end to accommodate a larger disk. It looks like about a 2:1 ratio keeps the caliper square on the larger rotor.

The washer will cover the round post on the rear of my e-bike, but my forks have a square contact surface that measures ~15.5mm corner to corner, and the mounting hole in the caliper is slotted to allow for adjustment so a 12mm washer isn't the best idea.

Hmmm,.. I need a square spacer to get proper contact.

Do the sell 1 or 2 mm thick spacers?

I may still have to fabricate something? Or just get used to lips on my rotors?

 

[Gionnirocket]

No flipping lipping on rotor or pads... I must be an anomaly

 

[PCeBiker]

So, I just bought a bunch of fender washers. (Big washer, small hole)

I had to spend $10 to get free shipping so I got an assortment,..

Regular washers with standard thickness (not 100% accurate thickness)

18mm washers with 6mm holes and 1.5mm thick,..

And 18mm washers with 6mm holes and 1.2mm thick,..

I'm going to have to get my grinder out to cut them square so they have clearance and don't get caught up on the rotor or something.

 

[spokewrench]

If you are hard on rotors and they warp you can get them heat treated, or maybe do it yourself. I bought some larger rotors a while back and they were prewarped. I don't know if they can make the rotors completely flat, haven't seen enough of them yet.

Maybe @PCeBiker needs heat treating. If it wasn't done at the factory, metallic pads could soon wear a disc to the point of lipping!

Here's what I use to straighten a disc.

https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-7-Inch-Pliers-Comfort/dp/B000X4PTZ4

If I had better sense, I might just use a lever with a slot like everybody else. I check runout with the depth gauge on a digital caliper.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I'm going to have to get my grinder out to cut them square so they have clearance and don't get caught up on the rotor or something.

That's what I do often in the shape needed. Sometimes just for appearances
Fender washers are your friend.

 

[PCeBiker]

If you are hard on rotors and they warp you can get them heat treated, or maybe do it yourself. I bought some larger rotors a while back and they were prewarped. I don't know if they can make the rotors completely flat, haven't seen enough of them yet.

I've had no problem straightening rotors. I was using a big adjustable wrench, but I found my rotor tool that works nicely.

It fits snug on the rotor, and is easy to give little tweaks without breaking the rotor in half.

 

[spokewrench]

So, I just bought a bunch of fender washers. (Big washer, small hole)

I had to spend $10 to get free shipping so I got an assortment,..

18mm washers with 6mm holes and 1.5mm thick,..

And 18mm washers with 6mm holes and 1.2mm thick,..

I'm going to have to get my grinder out to cut them square so they have clearance and don't get caught up on the rotor or something.

I believe Fender washers are for electric guitars.
I use these because they are specially made for bicycle riders.

https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Standard-Index-Rider-Back/dp/B09SDKSXLZ

They'll let you move your caliper out 25 mm in increments of 0.25mm with no grinding.

 

[PCeBiker]

Maybe @PCeBiker needs heat treating. If it wasn't done at the factory, metallic pads could soon wear a disc to the point of lipping!

They're organic resin pads, but they have sintered metal, copper, grease, and trees in them ??
Maybe some bark ??

They're bulletproof too in case someone tries to shoot out my brakes !!!

The mark made by the piston doesn't look centered on the pad.
There's a bit of slack on retaining pin that lets the pads drop a smidgen.

Maybe @PCeBiker needs heat treating.

It's not best rotor.
It's kinda an entry level brand name component.

The rotor has a lot of wear compared to the pads,..

I'm used to getting two or three pad changes before needing new rotors on cars and motorcycles.

The only thing I can think of is all the dust on the gravel roads I ride.

I'm thinking dust gets stuck in the pads, then grinds into the rotor ?
(I smoke Vados then make s*it up. )

Apparently Tektro also makes high-end TRP components but that rotor is $75,..

My new rotor is the newer TR-52 series rotor that is supposedly made with better metal than the LZ-24 rotor.

I don't know about that, but if I can end up with a lip-less rotor I'll be happy.

 

[PCeBiker]

If you are hard on rotors and they warp you can get them heat treated, or maybe do it yourself.

I have over 3800 km on the pads and rotors, but I'm not hard on the brakes and rarely need to use them.

However, I was practicing my emergency stopping on asphalt and it turned out to be a lot of fun, so I've done a bunch of times.

It's fun to see if I can skid the front tire before getting thrown over the handlebars.

My rotor was hot AF afterwards.

 

[Gionnirocket]

My rotor was hot AF afterwards.

There you go!
You heat treat'd it yourself!

 

[PCeBiker]

There you go!
You heat treat'd it yourself!

Cool !!!

I'm looking forward to heat treating my new rotor !!

 

[spokewrench]

They're organic resin pads, but they have sintered metal, copper, grease, and trees in them ??
Maybe some bark ??

They're bulletproof too in case someone tries to shoot out my brakes !!!


View attachment 188660View attachment 188661


The mark made by the piston doesn't look centered on the pad.
There's a bit of slack on retaining pin that lets the pads drop a smidgen.

View attachment 188668







It's not best rotor.
It's kinda an entry level brand name component.

The rotor has a lot of wear compared to the pads,..


View attachment 188666

I'm used to getting two or three pad changes before needing new rotors on cars and motorcycles.

The only thing I can think of is all the dust on the gravel roads I ride.

I'm thinking dust gets stuck in the pads, then grinds into the rotor ?
(I smoke Vados then make s*it up. )

Apparently Tektro also makes high-end TRP components but that rotor is $75,..




My new rotor is the newer TR-52 series rotor that is supposedly made with better metal than the LZ-24 rotor.

I don't know about that, but if I can end up with a lip-less rotor I'll be happy.

Oh, Tektro E10.11! That explains it. They've got stuff added to make them last longer. If you buy pads that don't last as long, that could solve your problem!

I've wondered about grit. Maybe in damp weather, it could stick to the rotor, than get stuck in the pad. When a wheel is off, I may run a cloth between the pads in case there's grit I can wipe loose. (Is grit the cause of scored car rotors?)

I see the wear on your rotor extends to the edge on the right bit is a couple of mm short on the left. If you used Bicycle Rider spacers to move the caliper left, You'd have a lip on the right.

Clevis pins are so 2024! Suppose a squealing sound wakens you at 3 AM, and you open the garage door and realize it's your extended life Tektro pads. You've got to get those pads out before an RCMP swat team runs you in for disturbing the peace, but your flashlight needs charging, and without a light you can't find your tools. With an R clip, no problem!

 

[PedalUma]

If you are hard on rotors and they warp you can get them heat treated, or maybe do it yourself. I bought some larger rotors a while back and they were prewarped. I don't know if they can make the rotors completely flat, haven't seen enough of them yet.

New bikes come with warped rotors. It just takes a slotted tool to straighten them. Use the deep side. I like to place down a white foam pad so I can see which side is rubbing, where. Place your thumb on the axle and the side of your index finger at the center line of the pads. Extend that line to the rim and place a drop of spit on the tire there. Rotate the wheel so you can access that spot on the rotor and bend it about 8mm. Check that spot again while viewing through the pads. With some practice you can straighten a rotor in as little as 20 seconds.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Probably splitting hairs here on wording but warping comes from overheating.
I'd guess that what everyone is seeing is a bent rotor from things being slammed together on assembly.
That said... I have no O_rings, lipping, warping, bent, extra washers, anti-seize, silicone or the need for a business card.

I rule!