Just picked up my Bulls E-stream Evo 45 AM!

Thanks for this, immensely. I spent the whole weekend reviewing posts and also ended up looking at the OneUp Dropper v2. You're a little taller than me, but I'm also riding the 49cm frame. I was debating the between the 180mm and 150mm. I'm on the line, but the ability to shim 10 or 20mm with this dropper gives me some flexibility.

Interesting commentary on the cable routing. My front derailleur cable was routed long, and at a funny angle. First ride on the bike I compressed the suspension enough for the cable to catch in the rear wheel knobs and shred the housing. I had to order a new cable and housing from Jensen, reinstall (pretty simple), and now have it zip tied so it won't catch in the tire. If Bulls would re-route the exit from the motor housing this cable would be laying nicely against the seat post tube.

Appreciate the pictures. I'll post again how it goes for me.
Yes I’d be very interested in knowing how you make out. I would say while maximum drop is nice, 10-20mm too much saddle height is quite annoying and perhaps hazardous. Consider drawing the tension on your remote as tight as possible so as to provide the most responsive actuation.
 
My wife wanted a city bike, so we got her a Surface604 Rook. Great on the streets, but I pull away from her like mad at first. Very upright,etc. Good the first couple of months. But then we hit some trails with friends. Totally not the bike for that. After all the searching she declared she now and a mountain bike. But she'll never ride trails that are 1/4 as aggressive as I will, so obviously not going to drop $5500 on the Bulls, despite it being an amazing class 3 mountain bike.

So, anyway, just picked up her Bulls E-stream Evo 45 AM, size 44cm. :). Pick your battles wisely!

Anyone in New England want to buy a Rook?

BTW- This is Bulls E-stream Evo 45 AM #2 that I negotiated down to $4600. I think that's the right price point, and the dealers agreed. Maybe I just got lucky with timing.
 
Thanks for this, immensely. I spent the whole weekend reviewing posts and also ended up looking at the OneUp Dropper v2. You're a little taller than me, but I'm also riding the 49cm frame. I was debating the between the 180mm and 150mm. I'm on the line, but the ability to shim 10 or 20mm with this dropper gives me some flexibility.

Interesting commentary on the cable routing. My front derailleur cable was routed long, and at a funny angle. First ride on the bike I compressed the suspension enough for the cable to catch in the rear wheel knobs and shred the housing. I had to order a new cable and housing from Jensen, reinstall (pretty simple), and now have it zip tied so it won't catch in the tire. If Bulls would re-route the exit from the motor housing this cable would be laying nicely against the seat post tube.

Appreciate the pictures. I'll post again how it goes for me.
The pre-routed cable housing is useless. You need to be able to move it to install the dropper, but it takes a 90 degrees turn across the motor. If you know exactly what you're doing with the motor you can risk that. It was easy easier to simply cut the old cable housing as short as I could and routed a whole new cable. Get the cable at Jensen. https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-MTB-Stainless-Shift-Cable-Set

I routed it from the front of the bike down the frame and took a smarter path out of the motor housing cover. Easier to route the cable if you remove the battery latch at the top of the frame. Only two screws.

Then remove the top shock mount to give yourself room and a sightline on routing the new cable housing into the seat tube. The mount bolt unscrews from one side and then pushes (hammers) out the other. You'll need an assistant and /or bike holder. Pics to follow.
 
The pre-routed cable housing is useless. You need to be able to move it to install the dropper, but it takes a 90 degrees turn across the motor. If you know exactly what you're doing with the motor you can risk that. It was easy easier to simply cut the old cable housing as short as I could and routed a whole new cable. Get the cable at Jensen. https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-MTB-Stainless-Shift-Cable-Set

I routed it from the front of the bike down the frame and took a smarter path out of the motor housing cover. Easier to route the cable if you remove the battery latch at the top of the frame. Only two screws.

Then remove the top shock mount to give yourself room and a sightline on routing the new cable housing into the seat tube. The mount bolt unscrews from one side and then pushes (hammers) out the other. You'll need an assistant and /or bike holder. Pics to follow.
 

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Totally with you. I think what happened to work for me was pulling the lower part of the housing out from around the motor and then doing the “dental floss” sawing action back and forth until the housing traveled a bit more freely. In retrospect some silicone spray could have helped. It is really a stupid waste for the housing to be so crowded.
 
Totally with you. I think what happened to work for me was pulling the lower part of the housing out from around the motor and then doing the “dental floss” sawing action back and forth until the housing traveled a bit more freely. In retrospect some silicone spray could have helped. It is really a stupid waste for the housing to be so crowded.
I'm amazed you got it move at all. Like many things, it's a lot easier after you've done it once or twice. I bought one for my fiance as well. Overkill for a new rider in some ways, but anything less would have meant not keeping up on the road, not being soft enough offroad, and probably not being capable and safe enough. Grateful that we can afford buy two. She probably won't need a dropper, but if we go that route I'll work on perfecting the install and will post here.
 
I'm amazed you got it move at all. Like many things, it's a lot easier after you've done it once or twice. I bought one for my fiance as well. Overkill for a new rider in some ways, but anything less would have meant not keeping up on the road, not being soft enough offroad, and probably not being capable and safe enough. Grateful that we can afford buy two. She probably won't need a dropper, but if we go that route I'll work on perfecting the install and will post herFYI
The pre-routed cable housing is useless. You need to be able to move it to install the dropper, but it takes a 90 degrees turn across the motor. If you know exactly what you're doing with the motor you can risk that. It was easy easier to simply cut the old cable housing as short as I could and routed a whole new cable. Get the cable at Jensen. https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-MTB-Stainless-Shift-Cable-Set

I routed it from the front of the bike down the frame and took a smarter path out of the motor housing cover. Easier to route the cable if you remove the battery latch at the top of the frame. Only two screws.

Then remove the top shock mount to give yourself room and a sightline on routing the new cable housing into the seat tube. The mount bolt unscrews from one side and then pushes (hammers) out the other. You'll need an assistant and /or bike holder. Pics to follow.

FYI - I started with the Oneup 180mm post, thinking the travel would be useful. WAY too big for a guy 5' 9" on the message frame, even shimming it. I exchanged it for 150mm and that barely fits me with both shims in place. I have it out only about 3/4 of an inch from the clamp. And I find don't put it down particularly low when riding. Could have easily gone 120mm or smaller.
 
A quick note: I just got my EVO 45 AM and I'm very impressed with the build quality and the performance in the short time I've had it. I went on one 10-mile ride and it didn't make a dent in the battery. I'm thinking I'l get 60 miles out of a charge easy. Quite an improvement over the 17 miles max I was getting on my S604 Shred.

If you're lucky, you'll still be able to find them around. I got mine at a 20% discount with free shipping. I use it to commute to work during the week and commute to the trails after work. Luckily for me, half of my commute is over dirt. If you want a class 3 mountain-capable bike, this may be the last we see for a while.
 
Converted to a 1x yesterday and today. Too much congestion with the front DR. Plus I’ve loaned the bike for some very short rides and the riders can’t seem to understand the concept of cross-chaining. But the real reason was for simplicity because I don’t really need the granny gear. I went with a Wolf Tooth narrow/wide DropStop 32T chainring. Seems nice. In these photos the front DR has not yet been removed and the chain has not yet been degreased and cleaned (now done).
 

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1x conversion now complete. Really cleans up the controls, eliminates uncertainty as to gear selection, etc. Chain line is a-ok. Wolf Tooth suggested no need for a chain guard due to the clutched DR and it pedals great.
 
Is there an app to tweak the assist level settings like Specialized, Giant, etc do? ty
Not for the Brose TS motor AFAIK. Assume that’s what you have. If you have a different motor then maybe. Might want to contact your dealer or Bulls or Brose. Good luck.
 
This is the bike that I am considering buying for $4K:


thx

bob
 
That’s what I have. Love the bike. Battery seems to be junk. My second one has crapped out on me with very few miles/hours. The first one did too. Never got an explanation for why/what etc. Unfortunately as nice as the bike is when it works, it doesn’t work that often. I’d avoid it in favor of another more brand with better support or better batteries. There are some who have had problems with the motors too.
 
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