Yes I’d be very interested in knowing how you make out. I would say while maximum drop is nice, 10-20mm too much saddle height is quite annoying and perhaps hazardous. Consider drawing the tension on your remote as tight as possible so as to provide the most responsive actuation.Thanks for this, immensely. I spent the whole weekend reviewing posts and also ended up looking at the OneUp Dropper v2. You're a little taller than me, but I'm also riding the 49cm frame. I was debating the between the 180mm and 150mm. I'm on the line, but the ability to shim 10 or 20mm with this dropper gives me some flexibility.
Interesting commentary on the cable routing. My front derailleur cable was routed long, and at a funny angle. First ride on the bike I compressed the suspension enough for the cable to catch in the rear wheel knobs and shred the housing. I had to order a new cable and housing from Jensen, reinstall (pretty simple), and now have it zip tied so it won't catch in the tire. If Bulls would re-route the exit from the motor housing this cable would be laying nicely against the seat post tube.
Appreciate the pictures. I'll post again how it goes for me.
Not my bike, but this is pretty much what I have. https://images.app.goo.gl/9NATXPxkbrxMJ6g27@Prozek, could you take a picture of the E-Stream's display (when it is on)?
The pre-routed cable housing is useless. You need to be able to move it to install the dropper, but it takes a 90 degrees turn across the motor. If you know exactly what you're doing with the motor you can risk that. It was easy easier to simply cut the old cable housing as short as I could and routed a whole new cable. Get the cable at Jensen. https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-MTB-Stainless-Shift-Cable-SetThanks for this, immensely. I spent the whole weekend reviewing posts and also ended up looking at the OneUp Dropper v2. You're a little taller than me, but I'm also riding the 49cm frame. I was debating the between the 180mm and 150mm. I'm on the line, but the ability to shim 10 or 20mm with this dropper gives me some flexibility.
Interesting commentary on the cable routing. My front derailleur cable was routed long, and at a funny angle. First ride on the bike I compressed the suspension enough for the cable to catch in the rear wheel knobs and shred the housing. I had to order a new cable and housing from Jensen, reinstall (pretty simple), and now have it zip tied so it won't catch in the tire. If Bulls would re-route the exit from the motor housing this cable would be laying nicely against the seat post tube.
Appreciate the pictures. I'll post again how it goes for me.
The pre-routed cable housing is useless. You need to be able to move it to install the dropper, but it takes a 90 degrees turn across the motor. If you know exactly what you're doing with the motor you can risk that. It was easy easier to simply cut the old cable housing as short as I could and routed a whole new cable. Get the cable at Jensen. https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-MTB-Stainless-Shift-Cable-Set
I routed it from the front of the bike down the frame and took a smarter path out of the motor housing cover. Easier to route the cable if you remove the battery latch at the top of the frame. Only two screws.
Then remove the top shock mount to give yourself room and a sightline on routing the new cable housing into the seat tube. The mount bolt unscrews from one side and then pushes (hammers) out the other. You'll need an assistant and /or bike holder. Pics to follow.
I emailed Brose and they said these displays are not available yet in the USA.Not my bike, but this is pretty much what I have. https://images.app.goo.gl/9NATXPxkbrxMJ6g27
This is what Brose has listed for new displays. https://www.brose-ebike.com/de-en/products
I'm amazed you got it move at all. Like many things, it's a lot easier after you've done it once or twice. I bought one for my fiance as well. Overkill for a new rider in some ways, but anything less would have meant not keeping up on the road, not being soft enough offroad, and probably not being capable and safe enough. Grateful that we can afford buy two. She probably won't need a dropper, but if we go that route I'll work on perfecting the install and will post here.Totally with you. I think what happened to work for me was pulling the lower part of the housing out from around the motor and then doing the “dental floss” sawing action back and forth until the housing traveled a bit more freely. In retrospect some silicone spray could have helped. It is really a stupid waste for the housing to be so crowded.
I'm amazed you got it move at all. Like many things, it's a lot easier after you've done it once or twice. I bought one for my fiance as well. Overkill for a new rider in some ways, but anything less would have meant not keeping up on the road, not being soft enough offroad, and probably not being capable and safe enough. Grateful that we can afford buy two. She probably won't need a dropper, but if we go that route I'll work on perfecting the install and will post herFYI
The pre-routed cable housing is useless. You need to be able to move it to install the dropper, but it takes a 90 degrees turn across the motor. If you know exactly what you're doing with the motor you can risk that. It was easy easier to simply cut the old cable housing as short as I could and routed a whole new cable. Get the cable at Jensen. https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-MTB-Stainless-Shift-Cable-Set
I routed it from the front of the bike down the frame and took a smarter path out of the motor housing cover. Easier to route the cable if you remove the battery latch at the top of the frame. Only two screws.
Then remove the top shock mount to give yourself room and a sightline on routing the new cable housing into the seat tube. The mount bolt unscrews from one side and then pushes (hammers) out the other. You'll need an assistant and /or bike holder. Pics to follow.
FYI - I started with the Oneup 180mm post, thinking the travel would be useful. WAY too big for a guy 5' 9" on the message frame, even shimming it. I exchanged it for 150mm and that barely fits me with both shims in place. I have it out only about 3/4 of an inch from the clamp. And I find don't put it down particularly low when riding. Could have easily gone 120mm or smaller.
Not for the Brose TS motor AFAIK. Assume that’s what you have. If you have a different motor then maybe. Might want to contact your dealer or Bulls or Brose. Good luck.Is there an app to tweak the assist level settings like Specialized, Giant, etc do? ty