Issues with the Turbo Creo SL (all variants)

arnoldc

Active Member
Hi folks, as some are aware I own a Turbo Creo SL Comp Evo. My intention is for us to be able to share notes about issues with our bikes and what are the resolutions.

Here are mine:

1. Sunrace cassette

I am aware that this version of Creo SL comes with a Sunrace cassette and it is what it is. This is my first time to experience Sunrace products and it is a letdown. As I previously posted, the tuning was off and I had to tune the rear derailleur to my satisfaction. That part is now past me. However, the fact that my cassette have some minor (like 2 teeth in 2 cogs) imperfection, I am not inclined to pursue a warranty claim with Specialized because they will just give me another Sunrace cassette. At $6,500 price point, this bike deserves a Deore XT cassette.

2. Squeaking Futureshock cover [FIXED]

This is SUPER annoying! And hard to troubleshoot. If I turn the handlebar left and right, there's no noise. But the moment I ride the bike, the noise will pester me throughout the ride. I grabbed the entire cover and the noise disappeared and the moment I released it, the noise comes back. The local Specialized technician argues that the lip part maybe rubbing the frame but it does not. I can put a sheet of plastic and paper between the lip and the frame and they don't touch (maybe when riding, which I still have to test.

3. TCU still presents itself as "Levo"

This one is cosmetic. In the Mission Control (2.2.0 build 50) app, the Tune settings still show Eco, Trail, and Turbo when Trail should be Sport. Similarly, using Connect IQ of Garmin, the data field shows TRAIL. It seems to me that the TRAIL is hard coded. If the TCU generates 0, 1, 2, 3 and the developers assumed 2 = Trail then that's what causes it.

The Mission Control app do identify the TCU as Creo SL because there are no "Acceleration Response" and "Shuttle" options in mine.

4. Futureshock rocks

In our recent ride, during take off on an incline, the fork turned left while handlebar still points straight forward. Thankfully, I'm not in a downhill or something. After slightly tightening the bolts, there is a forward rocking motion every time I apply the front brake.

5. Dropper post seized

The X-Fusion dropper post no longer drops. I was told by my Specialized dealership that I am another one that has the X-Fusion problem wherein the cartridge is "wasted."
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1086.JPG
    IMG_1086.JPG
    361.7 KB · Views: 932
  • IMG_1079.PNG
    IMG_1079.PNG
    127.2 KB · Views: 926
  • IMG_E1130.JPG
    IMG_E1130.JPG
    178.6 KB · Views: 944
Last edited:
I'm going to add another build issue where the dropper post cable is insanely short compared to the others, clearly in this photo. The cable rubs the frame when steering to the left.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1089.JPG
    IMG_1089.JPG
    243.4 KB · Views: 814
My SL Comp has none of those issues. No squeaks, no gearing problems. I can’t believe what a quality product this is. It’s miles above my Yamaha Wabash and I was impressed with it, just a bit heavy.
 
I managed to fix the squeaking noise with my Evo. The issue is caused by a thin gap between the "ring" inside the rubber boot and the tall headset cap. Eliminating this gap fixed the issue.
 
New day, new issue. The cable cover/seal popped out, the screw is still screwed (sic) into the frame though.
 

Attachments

  • 20200307_220616.jpg
    20200307_220616.jpg
    165.7 KB · Views: 913
New day, new issue. The cable cover/seal popped out, the screw is still screwed (sic) into the frame though.
Should have had small screws like a BH. If you glue it, you may need to open it in the future for cable change/other things .
Do it maybe with a small piece of double side tape ?

Looking closer , i notice that small hole for a screw , was there one and it popped out ?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    127.9 KB · Views: 722
Should have had small screws like a BH. If you glue it, you may need to open it in the future for cable change/other things .
Do it maybe with a small piece of double side tape ?

Looking closer , i notice that small hole for a screw , was there one and it popped out ?
The screw is intact, still there. The cover popped out due to poor cable routing of the the brake cable. My LBS said the cable is already in when the bike was given to them, they just trimmed it. They will be routing a new cable at my convenience.

Attached is the photo showing bad routing (bent/angled) of the brake cable (top) in relation to the properly routed derailleur cable (bottom).
 

Attachments

  • 5CAC0FBE-048B-49EA-94BB-BEB6BF991C49.jpeg
    5CAC0FBE-048B-49EA-94BB-BEB6BF991C49.jpeg
    340.6 KB · Views: 668
Dave you're making feel better about buying the Creo :) - Don't get me wrong, overall I'm happy but I just don't think it makes sense to have lower gearing on a road bike with a motor than you typically get on road bikes without a motor.
I think the gearing issue is a result of having a single chainring. I have taken my Creo on some off-road trails and found the stock gearing isn’t quite low enough. While helping the road gearing, increasing the chainring would just make the low gearing worse. It’s just too bad the bike doesn’t have a double chainring.
 
The screw is intact, still there. The cover popped out due to poor cable routing of the the brake cable. My LBS said the cable is already in when the bike was given to them, they just trimmed it. They will be routing a new cable at my convenience.

Attached is the photo showing bad routing (bent/angled) of the brake cable (top) in relation to the properly routed derailleur cable (bottom).



If they remove the cover when doing the new cable run install it should be going smoothly.
 
My Evo has an annoying knocking sound in the area of the head tube/down tube when riding over rough surfaces.
I'm wondering if it is related to the Future shock, or if it's emanating from the battery compartment.
Has anyone noticed the same?
Apart from the knocking sound, the bike is fantastic, especially on the long , steep hills on my doorstep in the Yorkshire Dales.
 
Yes, a double chain ring would be better. I'm guessing the motor would need to be a bit slimmer in order to get a double chain ring. I would think it's a chain line issue. For MTB a single ring makes sense, but I'm not sold on a single ring for a road bike.

I'm curious why you say this?

I've been riding an MTB on road (Bulls E-Stream EVO 2 hardtail, with slimmed down tires) for about 6K miles. It has two chainrings in the front and I NEVER use the smaller one. (OK, when my battery died once I needed the lower ring. But other than that - NEVER.) In fact, I've often wanted a larger ring when my RPMs get too high. So when I saw the Creo only has one chainring my first thought was - great, that makes sense. Less weight for something I'll never use.

Thanks for your advice!
 
Back