Issues with the Turbo Creo SL (all variants)

[wsdcpark]

Hi folks, as some are aware I own a Turbo Creo SL Comp Evo. My intention is for us to be able to share notes about issues with our bikes and what are the resolutions.

Here are mine:

1. Sunrace cassette

I am aware that this version of Creo SL comes with a Sunrace cassette and it is what it is. This is my first time to experience Sunrace products and it is a letdown. As I previously posted, the tuning was off and I had to tune the rear derailleur to my satisfaction. That part is now past me. However, the fact that my cassette have some minor (like 2 teeth in 2 cogs) imperfection, I am not inclined to pursue a warranty claim with Specialized because they will just give me another Sunrace cassette. At $6,500 price point, this bike deserves a Deore XT cassette.

2. Squeaking Futureshock cover [FIXED]

This is SUPER annoying! And hard to troubleshoot. If I turn the handlebar left and right, there's no noise. But the moment I ride the bike, the noise will pester me throughout the ride. I grabbed the entire cover and the noise disappeared and the moment I released it, the noise comes back. The local Specialized technician argues that the lip part maybe rubbing the frame but it does not. I can put a sheet of plastic and paper between the lip and the frame and they don't touch (maybe when riding, which I still have to test.

3. TCU still presents itself as "Levo"

This one is cosmetic. In the Mission Control (2.2.0 build 50) app, the Tune settings still show Eco, Trail, and Turbo when Trail should be Sport. Similarly, using Connect IQ of Garmin, the data field shows TRAIL. It seems to me that the TRAIL is hard coded. If the TCU generates 0, 1, 2, 3 and the developers assumed 2 = Trail then that's what causes it.

The Mission Control app do identify the TCU as Creo SL because there are no "Acceleration Response" and "Shuttle" options in mine.

I bought a Creo Expert Evo, and I have a couple issues as well.

A) The Q-factor is 181mm. My knees would feel a little bit of discomfort after each ride. There is a lot of room between the crankarm and the chainstay, so I think Praxis could’ve made the crankarms lot narrower. I run Dura Ace cranks and Easton Carbon cranks on all my other bikes, and the Q-factors for them are 146mm and 151mm. After a half dozen ride, discomfort has subsided, but it will be interesting to see how my knees will respond when I start riding my other bikes more, then go back riding the Creo.

B) I have dropped chain quite a few times even though the clutch was on. At one time the chain got stuck between the frame and chainring, and it scraped the heck out of the bike.. I’m looking to replace the chainring with a more pronounced shaped narrow/wide ring. I might have to shortened the chain and adjust the RD tension as well.

Other than those two issues, I’m loving the bike!

 

[tankieboy]

Sorted the rattly sound! Top man Dave! I taped the cables, together with a piece of bubblewrap. Many thanks for the advice.



View attachment 51578

Can you not unplug this cable from the controller and remove the cable completely?

 

[Forkliter]

Can you not unplug this cable from the controller and remove the cable completely?

No you can't. The controller has two connectors coming out of is that are built-in.

 

[Kreathor]

Hello guys,
I bought myself a Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon EVO (the green one) and I love it.
The issue with it since 2 days is a squeaking noise while pedaling without motor assistance like shut down motor or higher speed.
It sounds like rubber on rubber. My (online) shop told me, that is a matter of inspection and tighten the screws.
I tried to fix it with a good spray of WD40 on the axle, no effect.

Does anybody have such an issue? Do have any tips for me?
Thanks.

 

[Nordicblu]

Hello guys,
I bought myself a Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon EVO (the green one) and I love it.
The issue with it since 2 days is a squeaking noise while pedaling without motor assistance like shut down motor or higher speed.
It sounds like rubber on rubber. My (online) shop told me, that is a matter of inspection and tighten the screws.
I tried to fix it with a good spray of WD40 on the axle, no effect.

Does anybody have such an issue? Do have any tips for me?
Thanks.

Hi I had a squeaking noice on my creo evo when pedalling , took it to the lbs and they narrowed it down To the rear wheel not tightened enough. With Both wheels tightened it stopped all noise. Not sure if it’s the same issue but might be worth a try.
goodluck.

 

[ThierryGTLTS]

I bought a Creo Expert Evo, and I have a couple issues as well.

A) The Q-factor is 181mm. My knees would feel a little bit of discomfort after each ride. There is a lot of room between the crankarm and the chainstay, so I think Praxis could’ve made the crankarms lot narrower. I run Dura Ace cranks and Easton Carbon cranks on all my other bikes, and the Q-factors for them are 146mm and 151mm. After a half dozen ride, discomfort has subsided, but it will be interesting to see how my knees will respond when I start riding my other bikes more, then go back riding the Creo.

B) I have dropped chain quite a few times even though the clutch was on. At one time the chain got stuck between the frame and chainring, and it scraped the heck out of the bike.. I’m looking to replace the chainring with a more pronounced shaped narrow/wide ring. I might have to shortened the chain and adjust the RD tension as well.

Other than those two issues, I’m loving the bike!

Please note that the chain has to be placed specifically on the chainring because the wavetech Praxis ring has special teeth.

110BCD WAVE TECH - Praxis Works

Whether you're cyclocrossing in mud or grinding gravel, Praxis 1X rings are ready for action with the Wave™ tooth profile. Licensed and developed in conjunction with Mountain Racing Products, the Wave™ profile applies alternating lateral force to each chain link to actively retain the chain to...

praxiscycles.com

Thierry

 

[dickp]

I just received a S- Works Creo purchased from an individual. Just started to unpack and set it up. It has Di2 , but I cannot locate the pencil battery for the Di2 system. The A junction is in the right side bar end. The battery is normally in the seat post on Di2 system bikes, but its not there on the Creo. Can anyone tell me where it is located? I would like to install the Shimano blue tooth transmitter and on other bikes always connected it to the battery.

 

[arnoldc]

I just received a S- Works Creo purchased from an individual. Just started to unpack and set it up. It has Di2 , but I cannot locate the pencil battery for the Di2 system. The A junction is in the right side bar end. The battery is normally in the seat post on Di2 system bikes, but its not there on the Creo. Can anyone tell me where it is located? I would like to install the Shimano blue tooth transmitter and on other bikes always connected it to the battery.

The junction A is the ES-RS910, handlebar junction box. If you mean to add the SM-EWW01, you can tap it anywhere like the RD, FD, or if it fits inside the handlebar then it can go in there. If I were you in your situation, I'd rather use the EW-WU111 which has both ANT+ and BT and will definitely fit inside the handlebar.

Of course, I didn't answer your question but I asked the local Specialized distributor and will revert should they answer me, but I guess the battery is in the downtube.

[update]

It's not in the seat tube because of the dropper post Specialized says the battery is accessible by removing the TCU.

 

[dickp]

The junction A is the ES-RS910, handlebar junction box. If you mean to add the SM-EWW01, you can tap it anywhere like the RD, FD, or if it fits inside the handlebar then it can go in there. If I were you in your situation, I'd rather use the EW-WU111 which has both ANT+ and BT and will definitely fit inside the handlebar.

Of course, I didn't answer your question but I asked the local Specialized distributor and will revert should they answer me, but I guess the battery is in the downtube.

[update]

It's not in the seat tube because of the dropper post Specialized says the battery is accessible by removing the TCU.

Yes, I plan to use the EW-WU111. I don't have a dropper post. I took out the TCU to retrieve the blue tooth paring code and I did not see the Di2 battery. Perhaps I did not look hard enough?? I have attached a photo of the bike.

 

[arnoldc]

Yes, I plan to use the EW-WU111. I don't have a dropper post. I took out the TCU to retrieve the blue tooth paring code and I did not see the Di2 battery. Perhaps I did not look hard enough?? I have attached a photo of the bike.

It's the S-Works SL, but I don't know how the one who built it placed the battery. Sorry.

 

[wrshultz]

Please note that the chain has to be placed specifically on the chainring because the wavetech Praxis ring has special teeth.

110BCD WAVE TECH - Praxis Works

Whether you're cyclocrossing in mud or grinding gravel, Praxis 1X rings are ready for action with the Wave™ tooth profile. Licensed and developed in conjunction with Mountain Racing Products, the Wave™ profile applies alternating lateral force to each chain link to actively retain the chain to...

praxiscycles.com

Thierry

Is there a mounting point for a front ring chainguide on the frame area behind the chainring? The motor mount bolt is in this area, but I don't know if there is another place for a chainguide fastener. Thanks!

 

[CMR15]

Frequent chain drop...

Hi everyone. I really love my SL Comp Carbon Evo, but both my wife and I (she has an EVO too), frequently experience chain drop when the chain is on the large ring of the rear cassette. It generally happens on steep climbs and it doesn't seem to matter if we are on gravel or tarmac. It happens even when the clutch is engaged.

I read that the Praxis "wave tech" chain ring is meant to have the "outer" link of the chain engaging the "inner" tooth of the chain ring for best results. But sadly, the chain still drops off the ring when placed this way. The Praxis site recommends having a chain guard "for best results."

So, I'd like to attach a chain guard, but I have no idea how to do so. Attaching a braze-on adapter I guess would normally work, but I'm not certain what size adapter to get and if one will even fit as our Crew seat tubes flare out as they reach the area around the motor/chain ring. It seems to me that a braze-on adapter would require a straight tube. I wonder, if we can use the bottle cage attachment point to secure a guard?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Oberst]

Frequent chain drop...

Hi everyone. I really love my SL Comp Carbon Evo, but both my wife and I (she has an EVO too), frequently experience chain drop when the chain is on the large ring of the rear cassette. It generally happens on steep climbs and it doesn't seem to matter if we are on gravel or tarmac. It happens even when the clutch is engaged.

I read that the Praxis "wave tech" chain ring is meant to have the "outer" link of the chain engaging the "inner" tooth of the chain ring for best results. But sadly, the chain still drops off the ring when placed this way. The Praxis site recommends having a chain guard "for best results."

So, I'd like to attach a chain guard, but I have no idea how to do so. Attaching a braze-on adapter I guess would normally work, but I'm not certain what size adapter to get and if one will even fit as our Crew seat tubes flare out as they reach the area around the motor/chain ring. It seems to me that a braze-on adapter would require a straight tube. I wonder, if we can use the bottle cage attachment point to secure a guard?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

What about a clamp on front derailleur? Might look a bit odd on single chainring and not sure if can be done with carbon frame.

 

[e-levity]

Frequent chain drop... I read that the Praxis "wave tech" chain ring is meant to have the "outer" link of the chain engaging the "inner" tooth of the chain ring for best results. But sadly, the chain still drops off the ring when placed this way. The Praxis site recommends having a chain guard "for best results."...

I'm not convinced of the value of the Praxis "Wave Tech" chain tooth design. The teeth are all narrow, ~2mm thick, and simply alternate in an in-and-out "wave" pattern. This is claimed to create a "more open area for mud and debris" and to result in less wear, but I think it sacrifices chain retention. The teeth on a typical Narrow-Wide chain ring are ~2mm (narrow) and ~3.5mm (wide), and this helps with chain grip and prevents skipping. I'm willing to give up some mud clearance and accept a bit more wear to have the chain stay on.

I've never dropped a chain using N-W chainrings without guides, but I have dropped the chain on my Creo's Praxis ring when I neglected to have the clutch engaged. I'm going to switch to a N-W style chainring as I want to go down to 42t on my Comp Carbon EVO bike for lower gearing anyway (42t will still allow me to spin a little over 30mph). I'm just waiting for the right length chainring bolts. The GRX clutch is pretty strong and should prevent chain drop when used with a N-W chainring.

 

[CMR15]

The only time I had the chain "drop" on my Creo is when I was riding uphill and I wanted to get to the largest cog. I shifted and it went past the cog and my chain got stuck between the cassette and spokes.

In my case adjusting the limit screw on the derailleur solved my problem.

Hey Slow. Thanks for the response.

My chain is dropping off the front chain ring, not the rear cassette. It happened today, yet again, when I forgot that I had to avoid using the largest rear cog. That shouldn't be limit-screw dependent, right? And my gears were recently indexed when I had tubeless tires set up.

It's really annoying since I ride quite a bit off tarmac, and with the hills, that largest cog is greatly appreciated.

 

[CMR15]

What about a clamp on front derailleur? Might look a bit odd on single chainring and not sure if can be done with carbon frame.

Does anyone know what adapter would fit on the Creo seat tubes?? Then I believe that I could attach a guard.

 

[Branerd]

Hey Slow. Thanks for the response.

My chain is dropping off the front chain ring, not the rear cassette. It happened today, yet again, when I forgot that I had to avoid using the largest rear cog. That shouldn't be limit-screw dependent, right? And my gears were recently indexed when I had tubeless tires set up.

It's really annoying since I ride quite a bit off tarmac, and with the hills, that largest cog is greatly appreciated.

I have the same problem with mine, and if the chain stays on, it’s noisy and bumpy, anyone have a potential solution?

 

[e-levity]

As described in post #62 above Mrs e-levity and I switched from the Praxis Wave chainrings to conventional Narrow-Wide chainrings. We were not experiencing significant problems with chain drop, but wanted lower gearing and chose to go with tried-and-true NW rings. We just returned from our first ride with 42t and 44t NW rings and they seemed smoother and quieter than the Praxis 46t ring. In addition, we did not have the chain drop off even riding rough conditions off-pavement with the derailleur clutch off (done as a test and to allow easier shifting). So far so good, but of course we need to see how they behave after more miles.

My recommendation for those having problems with the Praxis chainrings would be to
1) check that your chain is not worn ("stretched"),
2) make sure your chain is clean and well lubricated,
3) check the derailleur SIS and B-screw adjustments, and
4) confirm that the derailleur clutch is engaged.
If you're still having problems consider a NW chainring.

For those riding off-road with steep climbs a smaller chainring will also reduce the need to use the larger cassette cogs and thereby reduce cross-over chainline issues.

 

[artiebulger]

Is anyone else experiencing broken spokes on the R470db wheels? I've broken 3 in as many months, and I've only had the bike for 4 months. One broke yesterday while I was going downhill at 70km/h. Rear wheel wobble nearly threw me off the bike and into a parked car. It's getting to the point where I don't want to ride the thing for fear of being injured. I've written to Rider Care, haven't heard back.

Aside from the HEC1400 Spline wheels, any other options for aftermarket besides a custom wheelset?

 

[Ebiker01]

Is anyone else experiencing broken spokes on the R470db wheels? I've broken 3 in as many months, and I've only had the bike for 4 months. One broke yesterday while I was going downhill at 70km/h. Rear wheel wobble nearly threw me off the bike and into a parked car. It's getting to the point where I don't want to ride the thing for fear of being injured. I've written to Rider Care, haven't heard back.

Aside from the HEC1400 Spline wheels, any other options for aftermarket besides a custom wheelset?

How much do you weight ? Or are you a power rider ? As in 600-1000watts for a hard acceleration ?

I don't own the Creo, but need to know about your issue, as i am still considering it for purchase. For now the BMC ONE AMP Road is superior from my my research but the looks are better with Creo....