I just bought an ET.CYCLE T1000

You may have already seen this, but if you do decide to change controller/display, this link refers to one that supposedly works well:

Thanks Fred !!

That's exactly what I'm looking for !


Screenshot_20230103-134029_DuckDuckGo.jpg



It's a sine wave controller, and it's a Torque Simulator as well, which I understand means that it is power/current based, not speed based?

And it's only $17.89 !!
A Das-Kit Controller is $190.00!!
And I just spent $250 on a useless Das-Kit Off-road Display.

I was thinking of waiting for my warranty to expire but at these prices, I think I might just go for it, especially if it is plug and play with all the necessary connectors.

However, if you change any more parts on that beast, you won't be able to call it a T1000! (lol)

I'll just make up a new name for it. lol

I want to tame this twitchy beast.
I wouldn't mind derating the controller even further?
Maybe down to 12 amps so I don't have to worry about overheating my controller, battery, or motor.

I want as much range as possible without stressing my e-bike or having to pedal. lol

I hope that this controller/display combination can turn my ebike into an electric motorcycle with a normal twist throttle like the motorcycles I'm used to?

My only problem is that I'm not on AliExpress and I don't know if I have to join or something?
And I don't want to buy any cheap Chinese junk that might be unreliable or even dangerous?
 
Thanks Fred !!

That's exactly what I'm looking for !


View attachment 143870


It's a sine wave controller, and it's a Torque Simulator as well, which I understand means that it is power/current based, not speed based?

And it's only $17.89 !!
A Das-Kit Controller is $190.00!!
And I just spent $250 on a useless Das-Kit Off-road Display.

I was thinking of waiting for my warranty to expire but at these prices, I think I might just go for it, especially if it is plug and play with all the necessary connectors.



I'll just make up a new name for it. lol

I want to tame this twitchy beast.
I wouldn't mind derating the controller even further?
Maybe down to 12 amps so I don't have to worry about overheating my controller, battery, or motor.

I want as much range as possible without stressing my e-bike or having to pedal. lol

I hope that this controller/display combination can turn my ebike into an electric motorcycle with a normal twist throttle like the motorcycles I'm used to?

My only problem is that I'm not on AliExpress and I don't know if I have to join or something?
And I don't want to buy any cheap Chinese junk that might be unreliable or even dangerous?
Might be worthwhile checking with the guy who installed it just to see how it's working. As for AliExpress, I have purchased many items there with decent results. You need to be patient as delivery can be slow. Also maybe use PayPal in case of problems. You would also need a new compatible KT display. Maybe you can can sell the offroad kit? I think it's the Europeans and Aussies with their 250 watt restrictions that generally want them.
 
Might be worthwhile checking with the guy who installed it just to see how it's working. As for AliExpress, I have purchased many items there with decent results. You need to be patient as delivery can be slow. Also maybe use PayPal in case of problems. You would also need a new compatible KT display. Maybe you can can sell the offroad kit? I think it's the Europeans and Aussies with their 250 watt restrictions that generally want them.
When I go to that site, I see a price of $76.76Cdn for the controller. I think that lower price is just for one of the cables?

 
When I go to that site, I see a price of $76.76Cdn for the controller. I think that lower price is just for one of the cables?


Yeah, I couldn't use the link properly but when I access aliexpress on a separate page, then I can search.

Now I get this,.. (but duck duck go says it's unable to open this kind of link ??)

Screenshot_20230103-171556_DuckDuckGo.jpg


I need to figure out the different controller and display options.

I don't mind reducing the power to avoid overheating anything and to increase my range.
 
I've been doing some searching and came up up with this stuff,...

Screenshot_20230103-175832_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Screenshot_20230103-181325_DuckDuckGo.jpg



Being as I can apparently turn the power of the controller down to half, the 25 amp controller might be best?
With it turned down, I won't be over powering or heating up the controller.

But I also found this,..

Screenshot_20230103-180204_DuckDuckGo.jpg



I'm guessing that Das-Kit has the pin orientation changed and it might be a different Julet plug?

And this is a cable to connect the controller,..

Screenshot_20230103-181825_DuckDuckGo.jpg



It's got 3 pin brake cutout switch connectors, and my brakes are a weird 2 pin Julet connector.

20221208_232818.jpg


I can splice into the cable, but I don't know if I can splice a two pin into a three pin connection?
I think my brake switch is just an on off switch, and the KT controller uses a 3 wire HAL sensor.
Perhaps a couple simple resistors can emulate the hall sensor and get my 2 pin brake switches to operate?

I can figure out how to wire up a 2 wire light connector to my 3 wire light.

And I'm kinda liking this display,..



It's got a Watt meter which is something that I'm interested in monitoring.
It's USB.
I don't know what that means, and I would need to use my original button pad and I don't know if it's connect able?

Screenshot_20230103-192602_DuckDuckGo.jpg



There is this option, but I kinda want a Watt, volt or current meter.


Screenshot_20230103-193624_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20221208_220346.jpg
    20221208_220346.jpg
    173 KB · Views: 84
There is a lot of stuff. I prefer Amazon as it ships quicker, but they don't have as much...sometimes it costs more as well. Even tho i don't know any more about this than you, if you want to send me the AliExpress links for what you're thinking of ordering, I can have a look. Hard to sort things out with the screenshots. I was wondering about that USB myself. I think it may mean the display has a USB port that would allow you to connect accessories? Again, I don't know, but I dohave my doubts that the keypad would connect to te KT Display.
 
There is a lot of stuff. I prefer Amazon as it ships quicker, but they don't have as much...sometimes it costs more as well. Even tho i don't know any more about this than you, if you want to send me the AliExpress links for what you're thinking of ordering, I can have a look. Hard to sort things out with the screenshots. I was wondering about that USB myself. I think it may mean the display has a USB port that would allow you to connect accessories? Again, I don't know, but I dohave my doubts that the keypad would connect to te KT Display.
Sometimes Amazon have a better description of the same product (and sometimes, but not always a good price)....Here's an example:

it even shows a pic of the USB connection, but still not clear what it's for..maybe the keypd as you suggest?
 
This might be of interest. If you search you will find several Youtube videos and other stuff on the topic of programming thru the KT displays.
 

Attachments

  • KT-LCD3-e-Bike-Display-User-Manual-v3.0.pdf
    195.3 KB · Views: 469
Thanks for that,..

It looks like I need to get the LCD8H color display to be able to turn down the maximum power of the KT controller.
It also allows for A LOT more adjustments of A LOT more parameters as well. In fact maybe too many. Lol

I don't have to mess with too many of the settings but it would be nice to enter the motor parameters if I ever find out what the hell they are? Lol

I still don't know what motor I have, but apparently Das-Kit is just a rebranded MXUS motor?

I did manage to find an MXUS fat motor with a freewheel that appears to be what I have, but I'm not sure and I couldn't find the motor specs.

There is a link to the owners manual for the LCD8H color display that kjvt posted,..



So I'm pretty sure that I'm going to get the LCD8H display and probably that KT 25 amp sine wave controller.
 
The battery is still bouncing around.
A heavy battery needs a heavy duty clamp.

View attachment 143308

I'm going to keep strapping down the battery so it doesn't break.


A bit of an update about the reention battery bracket,..
I realized that the screw I tightened up wasn't holding the bracket on to the frame.
It's holding on a cover that has another screw underneath that is holding the bracket to the frame, and it had come loose as well.

20230123_115022.jpg
20230123_114858.jpg


The screw that holds the cover on had cracked it's mounting hole and the plastic was broken around locking pin.

The bracket is roughed in for a second screw but ET.CYCLE decided not to use a second screw.

20230123_114835.jpg



The top bracket is held on by a single machine screw into a threaded hole in the frame, and a single "wood screw" threaded into an aluminum "channel".

20230205_175926.jpg
20230205_175152.jpg
20230205_174547.jpg
20230205_174453.jpg



So the most expensive part of my e-bike is held on by two little screws, one of which loctite has no effect.


I'm certainly going to keep strapping down my battery.


My bike isn't designed to go over ANY kind of bump at all.
 
I would recommend replacing it with a cotter pin same diameter that goes all the way through the hole and lock it in place.

The machine screw is OK and holds with loctite but I don't think locktite has any affect on the other screw.
Why couldn't they weld on a metal tab then drill and tap it to use a proper machine screw.

That aluminum channel is useless.

The whole reention battery bracket is a bad design.

I might drill through the bracket and into the frame and either tap the hole or drill right through the frame and bolt it on.
I don't care what it looks like, I don't want my damn battery falling out.


The strap does work.
The battery can't bounce which should help keep the screw from vibrating loose.


20221214_171444.jpg
 
The machine screw is OK and holds with loctite but I don't think locktite has any affect on the other screw.
Why couldn't they weld on a metal tab then drill and tap it to use a proper machine screw.

That aluminum channel is useless.

The whole reention battery bracket is a bad design.

I might drill through the bracket and into the frame and either tap the hole or drill right through the frame and bolt it on.
I don't care what it looks like, I don't want my damn battery falling out.


The strap does work.
The battery can't bounce which should help keep the screw from vibrating loose.


View attachment 146416
I was just looking at mine. It is a little loose as well. I have not taken it off yet but just looking at it I am thinking Automotive molding tape. If the top bracket has a flat surface on it where it goes on the frame Try using Automotive molding tape. Its a two sided tape and that stuff is really strong and it would hold with no problem at all.

Bruce
 
I decided to put my controller in a waterproof box, and had to wait a few weeks for it to arrive.
I used the same box as @jkvt to make sure that it fit inside.
@jkvt mentioned that the controller is a little bit too tall to get the lid fully closed, so I cut the spacers off the lid and the bottom of the box to get the lid fully closed.

20230224_175520.jpg


I also decided to not use PAS or my headlight output, so I cut the wires off inside the controller and sealed them up with hot glue.

20230224_172928.jpg
20230224_173105.jpg


I left enough wire length inside the box to be able to reconnect the wires if I ever want to hook them up.
I should be able to install a relay for the lights inside the box to power up stronger lights and a tail light.
Maybe even brake lights at some point?




20230223_114803.jpg20230223_114910.jpg20230223_123659.jpg20230223_124035.jpg20230223_124156.jpg20230224_134001.jpg20230224_134047.jpg20230224_134114.jpg20230224_172359.jpg20230224_172431.jpg20230224_173011.jpg


I've still got all the wires to solder up, but I've figured out how I'm going to put the box together and I bought some 4:1 shrink tube with glue to get everything sealed up nicely.
 
Looks good. I guess it's a matter of personal preference, but if it were me, I would be hooking up the PAS, especially as I believe that controller has quite a bit of setup flexibility including this "simulated torque sensor"? If you don't want to use it, you could always turn it off (PAS 0?). Looking forward to hearing how it works out!
 
Looks good. I guess it's a matter of personal preference, but if it were me, I would be hooking up the PAS, If you don't want to use it, you could always turn it off (PAS 0?).

I didn't want to bother drilling another hole through the controller and the plastic box for the PAS sensor or the headlight.

I don't intend to ride at night, and I'll just carry a clip on handlebar light to be legal if I find myself in the dark.

My old e-bike doesn't have PAS and I really like it that way.
I only used the PAS on my new e-bike a few times just to see how it worked.
I don't like PAS.
I guess all I want is an electric scooter/e-motorcycle with a functional throttle, cruise control, and the ability to pedal it if I feel like it or I'm running out of juice.

I keep riding my old e-bike to the grocery store and I don't pedal at all.
I just don't feel like it and I have plenty of battery power to get me to and from the store so I just don't bother.


I do intend to pedal my new e-bike, but I am really out of shape.
When I was riding before winter set in, my ass was sore, my knees were burning, my hands were numb and cramping, and I really wasn't enjoying myself.
I have severe emphysema and can't walk down the sidewalk without breathing like I'm jogging.

My new e-bike should at least get me out of the house to get some fresh air and as much exercise as I can bother with.
 
Back