I just bought an ET.CYCLE T1000

[PCeBiker]

Dude! That’s really clean! Nice job!

Thanks, but it's not clean anymore.

I didn't mention that I put a small hole in the bottom of the plastic box to drain any water that might get into the box/controller.
I used a hot needle to melt the hole.

I also cut a tiny notch in the gasket of the aluminum controller box at the bottom as well for drainage.

Then I sprayed down the inside of the controller box with this Krown rustproofing spray (safe for electronics) before closing up the boxes.

I hosed it down good.
There was oil dripping everywhere.

It took a couple of days to finally stop dripping out the drain hole.


It's been working fine now for over 150 hours and 3300 km.

My ebike has seen its fair share of abuse and mess but I haven't had any electrical problems.

The controller has never been submerged or been riden in the rain, but it's seen mud and dirty wet spray coming off wet gravel roads.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I’m getting my new controller ready for external installation. I’m going to mount where my water bottle (that I never use) bosses are.

I finished making JST connector harness and getting power cable all set. I verified my existing pin arrangements and checked continuity so, I’m all set to plug and play, when I’m completely done.

I can’t do anymore until I get my 9pin motor cable in hand. I’ll feed it right into the controller like you did. Then I’ll make it pretty and mount it just above my bottom bracket, on the seat tube. Time for Vado smoke break.

 

[PCeBiker]

One thing I learned about the testing phase, is to not give it too much throttle.
If the phase wires or matching sense wires are wrong, full throttle can burn out your sensors.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

Oh. That’s a good tip! Definitely don’t want to smoke my sensors.

 

[PCeBiker]

I had my firing order backwards for my first test and the motor just hummed and buzzed and made a bit of a knocking sound.
Luckily I had learned previously to not give it full throttle. It would have been intuitive for me to crank it and see if that got it going.

My Das-Kit motor has the motor cable coming out the other side of the axle (not through the free wheel).
I think my armature spins in the opposite direction than a BAFANG, and that's why the firing order appeared backwards?

It turned out that all my motor cable wire colors matched the KT controller to work properly.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

Wow, so I just had a revelation. I've been playing with my display settings and realize that I like my bike where it is and I really don't want an external controller. I had my C14 set to 1. At 2, I have plenty of power for all the hills along my commute.

Now that I see how I can make any ends from the controller that I need, I think I'll use this controller on my wife's RadRunnerPlus. I know the bike can handle it as area13 has their upgrade kit available for a long time for that bike. I'll have to check their setting for that bike against what I come up with. I notice that they have the current limit at 28 amps. So that battery may have a 30 amp BMS.

That is a good bike for the upgrade as we got the rear rack and passenger seat for it. We have lots of hills and don't usually have a second rider because of the limitations of the existing controller. I'll order some extension cables of the same plugs that the bike uses and wire them in, instead of what I've currently done. What I have done, though, is learn (from you) that I can do a bit of wiring inside the controller. I never even thought of that, but I'm sure many other users have done that as well, probably area13 too. Just a couple of things I realize that COULD be an issue is 1) to keep the wires tied away from the PCB and 2) to keep the phase wires short and away from the FETS. The phase wires will generate heat, as well as the FETS. I think for the phase wires, I will keep the splice outside the controller.

 

[PCeBiker]

Wow, so I just had a revelation. I've been playing with my display settings and realize that I like my bike where it is and I really don't want an external controller. I had my C14 set to 1. At 2, I have plenty of power for all the hills along my commute.

I had to look up that setting because I didn't recognize it.

I realized that it doesn't apply to me because I didn't hook up my PAS sensor.

Keep your C5 setting in mind as well.
I have mine set to C3 to cut the power in half to extend my range.

C5=0 gives you a 3 level slow speed start so the power increases more gradually as your speed increases.
You might want to try it unless you need the punch to get going in traffic?

I tried it once and it didn't work for me because I don't have my PAS sensor hooked up.
IIRC, I had no power at all including the throttle?


I also have my C4 setting at 4 and turned down to 20% as well for first throttle gear to get a nice low power startup in first throttle gear.
It's great for doing 3 point turns in the bush.
The power is limited to about 100 Watts and the speed to 6 kph but in rough terrain, the speed is about 3 kph which is great for pulling the bike forward a few feet without having to push the bike, or have it jump out in front of you with a jack rabbit start.
It's just enough power to move the bike without having to push.

What I have done, though, is learn (from you) that I can do a bit of wiring inside the controller. I never even thought of that, but I'm sure many other users have done that as well, probably area13 too.

I didn't think of it either until I found out that my motor cable connector was too big for the KT motor cable.

I couldn't find that Julet motor cable anywhere.
Someone later did post a link to a extension that would have worked for me, but it was $50 CAD.

Cutting the cable off my old controller worked for me though, and I had enough length to get it into my KT controller.