hydraulic front brake quit working

Rexlion

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Tulsa metro
I have been dismounting my front wheel to transport my R1U LMTD in the back of the SUV. I transport it upright (on the front fork and the rear wheel). For several in-and-out trips this hasn't been a problem. But today when I pulled the ebike out of the SUV, I couldn't get the wheel back on because the rotor wouldn't slip in between the pads. I squeezed the brake lever a few times to see if it would help, but it didn't. I finally had to use a plastic tool to push the pads apart. But when I got the front wheel back on, I found that the front brake no longer works. The brake lever feels like there's no resistance. What have I done wrong, and is there an easy fix?

TIA.
 
Uneducated guess, when you decided to squeeze the brakes without something in between the brake pads, you may have over extended the piston in the caliper and popped them out. I am sure i will be corrected.
 
Could be you introduced air into the system. You could try bleeding air out per manuf. instructions. Probably a good idea to replace. They sell the hydraulics as a set for front or back brakes. The price can be $40 to $200 depending on what you think you need.
I did read that you're supposed to put a spacer block in the caliper when you remove the wheel for transport or storage.
 
the reason you could not get it back in is because you bumped or squeezed the lever then make it worse. using a plastic tire lever you can push the pistons back in. wedging the small end in between them and pushing. that may or may not work but try it then put the wheel back on and squeeze several times and see. but it may =neeed bled but do the a love first and see.
 
Thanks, all, for giving me some ideas on what to try (probably this weekend when there's more time and better weather). I will definitely look for a spacer block for future use!
 
I got to this today. Once the caliper was pushed back in farther, I guess it seated and the brake started working again. No bleeding. I'd also gotten the whole caliper housing cockeyed enough so it was rubbing on the rotor, so now that is straight also.

I've been loading the bike upright in the back of the SUV with the front wheel off. It's a bear to get in; I pick it up and set it inside as far forward as I'm able, then because it still needs to go forward about 3 more feet I was 'walking' the front fork in by leaning it side to side a tad and working the handlebar back and forth. This just isn't working well, and it's probably how I messed it up. So I bought a 3/8" x 12" threaded rod to put into the fork, and used a couple of old 'hand truck' (2 wheeled dolly) wheels, to create a low wheeled axle for rolling the ebike into the SUV hatch. The wing nuts provide enough friction to hold the axle in place for the short usage... if I'm careful.

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Have you tried loading it rear wheel first?
 
Have you tried loading it rear wheel first?
The handlebar stuck out too far to close the hatch when I tried it that way. :( I like this Lexus GX470 quite well, but the rear storage space continues to disappoint me versus my old 2000 Mountaineer (Explorer twin).
 
Many brake manufacturers make pad spacers expressly for this purpose. Unfortunately they are expensive (maybe $10 for a pair). Hayes pad spacers are $14 for a pack of 10 which is pretty good, but you only need 2 not 10. A good alternative is a popsicle stick.
 
The handlebar stuck out too far to close the hatch when I tried it that way. :( I like this Lexus GX470 quite well, but the rear storage space continues to disappoint me versus my old 2000 Mountaineer (Explorer twin).
Might be time to install a hitch ;)
 
Many brake manufacturers make pad spacers expressly for this purpose. Unfortunately they are expensive (maybe $10 for a pair). Hayes pad spacers are $14 for a pack of 10 which is pretty good, but you only need 2 not 10. A good alternative is a popsicle stick.
I talked to the nearby LBS and learned that they have a boxful of the spacers (and throw many of them away, they have so many) because they come shipped in the brakes of every new disc-brake bike and are no longer needed after they assemble the bike. They offered me a few, but (wouldn't you know) I'd already gotten a half-dozen via Amazon. So, FYI, anyone who wants a spacer or two for their brakes might stop by their LBS sometime and ask. (No guarantee they are all as nice and friendly as my LBS though.)
 
Might be time to install a hitch ;)
You mean, that thing my travel trailer is attached to? :D I do have one on the back of the trailer as well, but adding an ebike carrier's weight and the weight of the ebike would change the trailer's balance undesirably. 😬 The greatest contributor to dangerous trailer sway is too much weight behind the axles.
 
Nothing "seated" in the caliper. You simply pushed the piston and seals back into the caliper bore.
 
You mean, that thing my travel trailer is attached to? :D I do have one on the back of the trailer as well, but adding an ebike carrier's weight and the weight of the ebike would change the trailer's balance undesirably. 😬 The greatest contributor to dangerous trailer sway is too much weight behind the axles.
Is there room on the trailer tongue? I've seen the propane bottles moved forward to accommodate bikes.....
 
Is there room on the trailer tongue? I've seen the propane bottles moved forward to accommodate bikes.....
Not really. The tongue has a cargo box 2" from the trailer body, followed within an inch or two by the tanks, and the tank cover rubs on the jack, which is 9" from the center of the ball socket. Premium real estate up front!

It's working out okay inside the SUV for now. Might get a tad crowded if I also wanted to pack my inflatable paddleboard and my Gazelle pop-up screen room, though. 🙃
 
You may be able to find a 2 inch receiver for the FRONT of your vehicle. It will not interfere with the trailer and allows a bike rack to easily be mounted out of the way.
 
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