Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
Pushkar sent me a Magic Shine headlight. I'm trying to figure out where to mount the light's battery.
Hydra as a commuter?
- Thread starter coldriderwi
- Start date
scrambler
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Bay Area, CA
Congrats!!
Can you take close up pictures of the rear hub from all around so we can see the configuration and especially the torque arm?
For the brake, you may want to adjust the Caliper position using one of these spacers
There are videos on youtube showing the process, it is really easy, and allows to get the caliper properly aligned so there is no noise.
Can you take close up pictures of the rear hub from all around so we can see the configuration and especially the torque arm?
For the brake, you may want to adjust the Caliper position using one of these spacers
Amazon.com : ONGHSD Bicycle Brake Pad Alignment Tool, 2PCS MTB Disc Brake Pad Adjusting Tool Bike Brake Rotor Pads Mounting Assistant Tools Adjust Spacer Mountain Bike Disk Repair Tool Cycling Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com : ONGHSD Bicycle Brake Pad Alignment Tool, 2PCS MTB Disc Brake Pad Adjusting Tool Bike Brake Rotor Pads Mounting Assistant Tools Adjust Spacer Mountain Bike Disk Repair Tool Cycling Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
smile.amazon.com
JRA
Well-Known Member
Loosen up the caliper bolts on the fork mount, then cycle the front lever several times and hold it tight while snugging down the caliper bolts. Check for noise. If all good torque the caliper bolts to spec. If not see if your rotor is warped? If so with clean hands you can gently massage it into shape between your thumbs. Has worked for me for years on many bikes.
I do have the feeler gauge looking tool but after trying it out it really didn't do anything better for me?
I do have the feeler gauge looking tool but after trying it out it really didn't do anything better for me?
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
I'll take some photos of the rear hub tomorrow and I'll also loosen off the caliper bolts and adjust its position with the rotor.
This is one good looking ebike, but the Cerakote finish is unusual. It's not very smooth. Nothing like paint. I wonder if it can be waxed.
May be a dumb question......with the Kindernay hub do I shift while pedalling, like a regular derailleur, or do I stop pedalling when I shift?
This is one good looking ebike, but the Cerakote finish is unusual. It's not very smooth. Nothing like paint. I wonder if it can be waxed.
May be a dumb question......with the Kindernay hub do I shift while pedalling, like a regular derailleur, or do I stop pedalling when I shift?
It never occured to me that these would exist. I've been using thin plastic strips. Thanks!
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
Just a quick question....is the head tube clamp 35mm? I'm looking at the possibility of going with a handlebar with more sweep.
The handle bar clamp should be 35 mm. I didn't have any luck finding 35 mm swept bars. Swept bars need a longer stem to maintain steering stability, so there's no reason to stick with 35 mm.
My wrists are happy with the SQlab 3OX 16° high rise. I went with a 70 mm, 35° stem.
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Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info on the SQlab 30X. Did you go with the carbon or aluminum model? I noticed the aluminum isn't available on the SQlab site, but the carbon is. Did you buy from the SQlab site or somewhere else?
Aluminum from a German online seller. The price was less than direct from SQlab.
JohnDavis
New Member
- Region
- USA
Looks nice!
loamoaf
Active Member
- Region
- USA
With the Dollar & Euro so close in value it's a done deal to order EU goods from EU retailers. Their retail prices by law include their VAT, and often times their retail prices are cheaper than our retail prices. Kicker is being a non-EU resident means you don't pay that 19% VAT (it bounces around from 19-21% at least these past few years) meaning you save even more. I'm about to order some SQLab 710 grips and 410 horns, figured I'll snag a few other goodies while I'm at it to hit free shipping. Bike24, BikeInn, bike-discount, Ridewill are a few good EU retailers for bike stuff.
Also go with carbon if you don't mind the price difference. They soak up vibrations better than aluminum, especially if it's 7075
Also go with carbon if you don't mind the price difference. They soak up vibrations better than aluminum, especially if it's 7075
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
I ordered this handlebar yesterday along with Ergon GA3 grips. I also ordered a caliper spacer, and my battery is coming tomorrow.
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
My battery arrived today. It was scheduled to come last week, but I was away for 5 days, so I had to postpone delivery until today.
The caliper spacer also arrived today, so I'll work on my front brake again tomorrow.
I got tired of leaning the bike up against something, so I built a bike rack today-one side for my Hydra and the other side for my Cannondale e-gravel bike.
The caliper spacer also arrived today, so I'll work on my front brake again tomorrow.
I got tired of leaning the bike up against something, so I built a bike rack today-one side for my Hydra and the other side for my Cannondale e-gravel bike.
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
I used the rotor spacer to align the caliper, but I'm still getting a rubbing sound from the front brake. There's also vibration from the front brake when braking hard.
When spinning the front wheel I see some rotor warpage as it moved between the brake pads.
I texted Pushkar about the problem, so I'll wait for his response.
When spinning the front wheel I see some rotor warpage as it moved between the brake pads.
I texted Pushkar about the problem, so I'll wait for his response.
loamoaf
Active Member
- Region
- USA
I'm going through this mess right now... 3 different 220mm MDR-P rotors, 2 different 203mm MDR-P rotors. None of them are perfectly true and I suspect this is either because they are die cut (stamped) or heat from cutting (not using water jet or lube or dull bits or... idk). I'm beginning to this is is an issue that I overfilled the brakes and am not leaving enough of a gap. I can almost get them right but there's always one moment where there's a little 'shing' noise as the rotor scrapes the pad. The closest I can get the lever to the bare bars is 12-15mm and it feels like I'm going to snap something in my arm if I squeeze any harder - with the lever reach adjusted all the way out and the bite point adjustment all the way out.
I just got my new grips and horns today and some sealant in my street tires on the beater alloy set I got. I'm going to see if bedding in the pads doing a couple runs down the mountain here in the neighborhood helps, may also pick up those caliper alignment spacers and see if I can remove a drop or two of oil from the brake reservoirs... the Maguras are a real PITA to get bled right I really don't want to have to open them up though
A shop can true the rotor and I've been told it's not uncommon to have rotors need truing out of the box, but this wasn't the case for the cheap Avid 180mm rotors I got on amazon years back - though maybe the gaps between my pads were also larger on those brakes. I don't think I bedded in the front pads on those properly and get a warble braking hard on downhills on that bike but no major vibration or loss of performance. If I can't get it figured out I really hope a shop will be able to true these rotors, they aren't very easy to work with with just a hand truing tool for rotors. Single piece all steel ones probably a lot easier to do with the hand tool at home
I just got my new grips and horns today and some sealant in my street tires on the beater alloy set I got. I'm going to see if bedding in the pads doing a couple runs down the mountain here in the neighborhood helps, may also pick up those caliper alignment spacers and see if I can remove a drop or two of oil from the brake reservoirs... the Maguras are a real PITA to get bled right I really don't want to have to open them up though
A shop can true the rotor and I've been told it's not uncommon to have rotors need truing out of the box, but this wasn't the case for the cheap Avid 180mm rotors I got on amazon years back - though maybe the gaps between my pads were also larger on those brakes. I don't think I bedded in the front pads on those properly and get a warble braking hard on downhills on that bike but no major vibration or loss of performance. If I can't get it figured out I really hope a shop will be able to true these rotors, they aren't very easy to work with with just a hand truing tool for rotors. Single piece all steel ones probably a lot easier to do with the hand tool at home
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
I wonder if rotor warpage is more common with the larger 203mm+ rotors.
loamoaf
Active Member
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- USA
It certainly seems worse on the 220s than the 203s and I swear I can see a part where one of them doesn't have a sharp edge all the way around at one point it's a bit of a bevel. The MDR-P's are a bit of an extra pain because the actual steel braking surface is just a ring around the aluminum spider, and it doesn't seem to take a localised bend from the hand tool well. It's like I'm just moving a little wave in the ring around, or like the die punch was a little dull and the warp is more of a twist (ring slightly like a cone shape in that spot vs flat ring)
Lots of people review the rotors well and I've bought from European retailers when placing big orders & from domestic retailers, from the first and third 220mm rotor purchase probably 7-8 months apart. This is making me think I'm nitpicking and user error on my part, but it's been a little discouraging to hit all these small hiccups one after another along the way. I just had to write up a warranty ticket with FOX - the D3O knuckles on one of the gloves I got with my grips is rock hard and inflexible while the other is soft and pliable, and I'm about to find out if the reason my fork wiggles a little bit is because my stem cap wasn't tightened enough before my stemp or if my headset top is iffy... the struggle continues when I just want to ride! But... maybe not in the current heat.
Could be that WW is also filling the brakes with a drop or two too much oil when bleeding after people were complaining about squishy brakes. They seriously need to be bled 3-4 times to get ALL the air out, and it seems maybe I at least have been overzealous in applying a little pressure to the system when it comes time to cap off to avoid air bubbles. I tried multiple ways with using a vacuum at the brake lever, just pushing a ton of oil through from the caliper, tapping the lines and caliper with a screwdriver.
Lots of people review the rotors well and I've bought from European retailers when placing big orders & from domestic retailers, from the first and third 220mm rotor purchase probably 7-8 months apart. This is making me think I'm nitpicking and user error on my part, but it's been a little discouraging to hit all these small hiccups one after another along the way. I just had to write up a warranty ticket with FOX - the D3O knuckles on one of the gloves I got with my grips is rock hard and inflexible while the other is soft and pliable, and I'm about to find out if the reason my fork wiggles a little bit is because my stem cap wasn't tightened enough before my stemp or if my headset top is iffy... the struggle continues when I just want to ride! But... maybe not in the current heat.
Could be that WW is also filling the brakes with a drop or two too much oil when bleeding after people were complaining about squishy brakes. They seriously need to be bled 3-4 times to get ALL the air out, and it seems maybe I at least have been overzealous in applying a little pressure to the system when it comes time to cap off to avoid air bubbles. I tried multiple ways with using a vacuum at the brake lever, just pushing a ton of oil through from the caliper, tapping the lines and caliper with a screwdriver.
Deacon Blues
Well-Known Member
I'm probably going to replace the front rotor and I may go with a two-piece rotor. I'm thinking that there might be less chance of rotor warpage with a two-piece model, but that's just a guess on my part.
loamoaf
Active Member
- Region
- USA
To be clear the rotors I have are the two-piece style. Not as easy to true as you're kind of twisting the ring around those rivets. The rivets hold them in place well but they also allow for a lot of flex. Maybe a shop with a rotor truing jig will have a much easier time than me with hand tools. I'll also say I bang my head against the bike and tire so much trying to do it too... another benefit of the jig I suspect. I think Hope two-piece rotors have a smaller spider and more steel to them which may be easier to true should they need it, but I have no idea if they are the right thickness for Maguras. If you do want to take the plunge, EU retailers have the rotors under $30USD each, whereas over here they're more like $60-70. If you go the EU retailer route, be sure to pick up a few sets of 8.S pads too as they are also half price or less from EU retailers. Not sure if the Kindernary shifters have bolt on mounts that fit Shimano or SRAM shifter mounts but if they do Magura ShiftMix clamps are a neat way to clean up your cockpit by combining the brak and shifter clamps - also half price or less from EU retailers. @Rome two-piece/floating rotors are the same thing - semantics
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