Hydra as a commuter?

[Fast n' Furious]

If a helmet were pulling my hair out I think I would try wearing a thin cloth head covering under it for prevention.

Yes. Risking 'racial appropriation' accusations, I've tried the 'dew rag', 'bro'.
The added "Aunt Jemima" touch offset the 'Alien' theme, but drew stares at the long-haired, older (and sweaty) white guy in the goofy helmet - with the 'dew rag' (exacerbated the heat problem, subverting the airflow). I didn't look Like Giuliani w/ trails of runny-mascara down my cheek, but my brain was saying 'it's too hot in here, oldtimer', so I dumped the rag - homie.
It's my own fault. I was a sucker for the fabulous '2/3 off' price and the *&#@* Giro came in black. Great for the Swiss Alps.
It'll probably void the warranty, but I'm' a gonna' spray paint it in (drum roll) 'titanium' w/ grey metal flake.
-
I wish more experiences from those who opted for the Rohlof IGH were posted.
I can't test a bike and want to pull the trigger.
Against my overall plan, the Kindernay lacks a twist shifter. I really tried to accept the SA 3SP, but it's a serious compromise for my build. Endless research says it's the Rohloff.
Hey laid up Guys, or anybody rockin' a Rohloff. Tell me your experiences?
-
A couple things I note. The reason WW UC & CT bikes lack handlebar 'real estate' is the thumb throttle shifter(s) are hogging it.
Excess wiring? I use two detachable, rechargeable (front) lights that run 400 lumens for >11hrs each on low (18650 3500mw).
One is more than ample - cars high beam me if I adjust incorrectly. No wires; removable to prevent theft/ use as a flashlight; the mounts take up .75" each on the bars. My GoPro mount takes up another .75" and on either side of the head-clamp my basket's quick release mounts, about the same.
As an old photo shows, one light, on low is plenty. Upgrading to two, next to last photo shows the present, 2 'slide-on mounts' on the extender bars (lights detached & stashed in downtube bag), the center mount for the basket and the GoPro mount.
An extender is needed because the +$%#@* display interferes with everything for 4" on one side and won't mount on the other.
As can be seen, center mounting the display = problem solved - not cluttering the middle of the bars. I'm hoping the WW's display is mounted to the top cap (like w/ the last photo's device), where it belongs.
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For taillights, I like my Meilan Laser, wireless lighting . Look Ma, (more) NO WIRES !!! Not sure why, but every light I've had on the butt end of my rack ends up broken or just disappears.
The pic's under City lights, I don't use the side laser or even 'nightcrawl' much, but when I do it works perfect every time.
They're ($37) on Amazon so I ordered a new one yesterday - for a spare.
Solid Bluetooth. Great attachment system. Removable in a flash. Mounts to seat or post, press clip, slides off. Use every night, holds a charge for 4 - 5 days. You need more? Buy two. They weigh nothing and can be stowed easily for extended night-crawling.
The Meilan was the only one I tested with a controller/indicator that was decipherable regarding what was going on back there.
The others, you'd get off bike and here's this pinwheel lightshow flashing. Turn on a turn signal, it wouldn't turn off, unless you turned the other on, which then wouldn't turn off either.

Great weather and great rides today for me.

Good energy and thoughts to those recuperating.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Amazon.com

Putting this up as an example but in my industry, arborist, they are given out free as promo advertising clothing etc. I wear it like pictured for a light duty dust mask while chipping, pull it all the way up above my eyebrow and under my climbing helmet to catch perspiration on hot days before dripping into my eyes, and for the last year and a half on my neck any time out for covid duty.

Yes, the wonderful memories of ingrown hairs on the neck from that polyester.
I wore one constantly, starting March 2020, quit this summer. Having used them for years fishing, I had several on hand.
For many, Polyethylene terephthalate, polyester (a synthetic polymer made of purified terephthalic acid or dimethyl terephthalate and monoethylene glycol, counted as commodity plastic) "gaiters" (as these face wraps are known) work wonderfully in the sun, but I vastly prefer cotton - bleached, no dye.
Morbid fear of that 'Giuliani' thing.
A plastic bag from the store would work too, I suppose. Both petrochemicals, why not?

 

[JakEmAll]

I was thinking something like:

 

[scrambler]

For taillights, I like my Meilan Laser, wireless lighting . Look Ma, (more) NO WIRES !!! Not sure why, but every light I've had on the butt end of my rack ends up broken or just disappears.
The pic's under City lights, I don't use the side laser or even 'nightcrawl' much, but when I do it works perfect every time.
They're ($37) on Amazon so I ordered a new one yesterday - for a spare.
Solid Bluetooth. Great attachment system. Removable in a flash. Mounts to seat or post, press clip, slides off. Use every night, holds a charge for 4 - 5 days. You need more? Buy two. They weigh nothing and can be stowed easily for extended night-crawling.
The Meilan was the only one I tested with a controller/indicator that was decipherable regarding what was going on back there.
The others, you'd get off bike and here's this pinwheel lightshow flashing. Turn on a turn signal, it wouldn't turn off, unless you turned the other on, which then wouldn't turn off either.

Glad too hear about the Meilan Tail Light, it was at the top of my list for a rear light on my upcoming bike.
I am wondering if you tested this other one below

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXHDQLN/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Reason I asked is because I would actually want to hardwire the light power supply so I don't have to deal with recharging it, and Meilan said you cannot use their light plugged into a USB power supply, but the one above says you can. I could of course always open up the Meilan and hardwire from there if needed.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I'm thinking: I'm gonna go to the store, remove my helmet and reveal I'm wearing a kufi - say, on 9/11?
(kuːfˈiː) noun. a rounded brimless cap for men, esp men of African descent, made of cloth or knitted. Islam. A keffiyeh, a similar head covering worn by Muslim men.
Wearing one means I'm 'very Islamic and peaceful' - I'm not kidding here.
Uh, no. People are crazy enough without wearing a target on my head. No sheets either, thank you. Nothing controversial.
Advertised as being great for 'longer hair', thinking my hair wouldn't get yanked out, there was no mention of needing a head covering.
Then, I had to locate and obtain padded covers for the annoyingly uncomfortable straps.
The plastic buckle, directly under the chin is so difficult for me to clip shut without pinching, I might need a chin rag too. Maybe a Burka?
This helmet: https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/biking/road-bike-helmet/giro-cinder-mips
Forget the wonderful claims for the adjuster; it's terminally uncomfortable; the straps are abrasive on my face.
Neither 'pinch-hazards' or wearing a liner was in the plan. I probably made a poorly researched bad choice.
-
Everyone with real experience makes clear: "wear a Mips", and many learned the hard way.
Now I see two riders on this forum get clobbered - or nearly getting clobbered and my negligence jolted me, made me ashamed I'm not doing what others paid in blood to prove is correct, risking my life - at my age.
I thought about that excuse, "It pulled my hair so I quit", and had to check myself. Just rationalizing doing what's convenient, but incorrect = stupid. Worse, it sounds like a joke too, huh? Lamest excuse since kindergarten. LOL. I knew I HAD to be on the wrong side of this argument.
When I discovered Giro also made hats and liners for helmets, I tried my favorite (stretch band type) cotton ball cap turned around brim back and it works perfectly. Even the adjuster now grips my head like a medieval torture machine.
I think these helmets are designed to be worn with a cap.
Really, thanks for the suggestions, and thanks for making me think.

Best wishes and get well soon to the injured !

https://giordanacycling.com/products/solid-mesh-cap?variant=33101789429865

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Glad too hear about the Meilan Tail Light, it was at the top of my list for a rear light on my upcoming bike.
I am wondering if you tested this other one below

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXHDQLN/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Reason I asked is because I would actually want to hardwire the light power supply so I don't have to deal with recharging it, and Meilan said you cannot use their light plugged into a USB power supply, but the one above says you can. I could of course always open up the Meilan and hardwire from there if needed.

Hey, like your posts. On point and and informative. Helps me a lot.
I haven't checked that light. It's out anyway.
Verified: When it is charging, Meilan will not work.
Yes, taking off directly from the board could work.
As I recall, one reason I went with Meilan was the 18650. I started with that criteria.
It means a 3.7V circuit should work, simply running from the battery terminals ( two small screws to remove).
I would also install a couple of resistors in series.
Just did quick Google. Guy on Amazon dismantled X5. Nice pic shows an 18650. He says: Battery life: This light comes with a 2000mah battery cell, but it is easily upgraded. I plan to upgrade to a 3500mah cell which will resolve the battery life issue, but TBH 10 hours is plenty long enough to last through an entire summer night, and then some. Cheap devices usually come with substandard cells, but this one isn't outrageously overstated as many other cheap Chinese devices, so this is fine. I'm chucking the cell that came with it in favor of a high-capacity cell for even longer battery life. The cell that came with it is far better than I expected." https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072NDDM6...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
His review is, however incorrect. There is a 'brake light' - but you must press the button - but exactly as I predicted, and the rest is why have several LG 3500's sitting here for this and my lights.
Don't buy any of these devices that're not 18650 powered. Not sure how I ferreted out this one was. On Amazon

Glad too hear about the Meilan Tail Light, it was at the top of my list for a rear light on my upcoming bike.
I am wondering if you tested this other one below

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXHDQLN/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Reason I asked is because I would actually want to hardwire the light power supply so I don't have to deal with recharging it, and Meilan said you cannot use their light plugged into a USB power supply, but the one above says you can. I could of course always open up the Meilan and hardwire from there if needed.

Meilan says the battery is not replaceable. LOL.

 

[scrambler]

Meilan says the battery is not replaceable. LOL.

Yes, I had a good laugh when I read that comment from them
And yes I would never buy something like that if it did not use a Lithium battery that can be replaced and upgraded to high capacity high quality cell

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Yes, I had a good laugh when I read that comment from them
And yes I would never buy something like that if it did not use a Lithium battery that can be replaced and upgraded to high capacity high quality cell

I have to briefly lock up in the city. At a glance my bike' not an easy randomly target. Too much trouble. The ABUS alarm lock works okay (should at that weight) and I have a 'boomerang' just sitting that really works deterring theft.
People telling me they came back from shopping to find 'lights twisted off' is a big reason I use detachable accessories.
If it never left my sight, hardwired is the way to go for sure. One of those usb-c chips I spoke of would work perfectly, output to the light, input from a 4.5 - 5v battery terminal. No risk of blowing out the LED's.
I wouldn't bet the LED's or other components will last, but it's an interesting toy!

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I'm thinking: I'm gonna go to the store, remove my helmet and reveal I'm wearing a kufi - say, on 9/11?
(kuːfˈiː) noun. a rounded brimless cap for men, esp men of African descent, made of cloth or knitted. Islam. A keffiyeh, a similar head covering worn by Muslim men.
Wearing one means I'm 'very Islamic and peaceful' - I'm not kidding here.
Uh, no. People are crazy enough without wearing a target on my head. No sheets either, thank you. Nothing controversial.
Advertised as being great for 'longer hair', thinking my hair wouldn't get yanked out, there was no mention of needing a head covering.
Then, I had to locate and obtain padded covers for the annoyingly uncomfortable straps.
The plastic buckle, directly under the chin is so difficult for me to clip shut without pinching, I might need a chin rag too. Maybe a Burka?
This helmet: https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/biking/road-bike-helmet/giro-cinder-mips
Forget the wonderful claims for the adjuster; it's terminally uncomfortable; the straps are abrasive on my face.
Neither 'pinch-hazards' or wearing a liner was in the plan. I probably made a poorly researched bad choice.
-
Everyone with real experience makes clear: "wear a Mips", and many learned the hard way.
Now I see two riders on this forum get clobbered - or nearly getting clobbered and my negligence jolted me, made me ashamed I'm not doing what others paid in blood to prove is correct, risking my life - at my age.
I thought about that excuse, "It pulled my hair so I quit", and had to check myself. Just rationalizing doing what's convenient, but incorrect = stupid. Worse, it sounds like a joke too, huh? Lamest excuse since kindergarten. LOL. I knew I HAD to be on the wrong side of this argument.
When I discovered Giro also made hats and liners for helmets, I tried my favorite (stretch band type) cotton ball cap turned around brim back and it works perfectly. Even the adjuster now grips my head like a medieval torture machine.
I think these helmets are designed to be worn with a cap.
Really, thanks for the suggestions, and thanks for making me think.

Best wishes and get well soon to the injured !

https://giordanacycling.com/products/solid-mesh-cap?variant=33101789429865

Ahhh, I found the Cotton liners https://www.nippynormans.com/r1200rt-2010-to-2013/tucano-cotton-helmet-liner-pack-of-2

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Hey scrambler. This question is right up your alley, .
Luna's 5Kw Sur-Ron is using an "O-Ring Chain for quieter and longer use". If it'll transfer power of this 5kw beast without disintegrating, is this the correct drive chain for for all the big-watts Ultra powered machines?
No particular type of motorcycle grade chain, I'm musing using a light, motorcycle chain/ sprockets with an SA 3SP. W.O/ an idler.
Are there appropriate sprockets for such an SA 3SP IGH in a 48-50T x 19T configuration?

 

[scrambler]

The Sur-Ron inflicts a lot more pain to the chain than a bike like the Hydra, both because of the Power but also the fact it is throttle only, and no gears.

Ultimately it depends how you are using the bike. This is a thing where I would say use it as is and then decide depending how things evolve.
If you trash your chain in no time look for stronger alternative, but otherwise, don't bother

the other issue is the fact that Bicycle Sprockets are not as thick as motorcycle ones, so a larger chain may not work on them

 

[Cuz Vinny]

Hey scrambler. This question is right up your alley, .
Luna's 5Kw Sur-Ron is using an "O-Ring Chain for quieter and longer use". If it'll transfer power of this 5kw beast without disintegrating, is this the correct drive chain for for all the big-watts Ultra powered machines?
No particular type of motorcycle grade chain, I'm musing using a light, motorcycle chain/ sprockets with an SA 3SP. W.O/ an idler.
Are there appropriate sprockets for such an SA 3SP IGH in a 48-50T x 19T configuration?

I’ve yet to snap a KMC EBike chain. Use them on all my bikes up to my 5000w CYC X1 Pro MTB (when it ran).

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Someplace in this thread says WW does not recommend kickstand for Hydra.
Well my #1 bike kickstand failed. I take it off for some rough trails. I tried to put back on with my hilti screw gun and the threads got messed up.
I started a claim today because the frame has life time warranty.

Only safe way you'll attach a kickstand to a Hydra is by using a plate, attached via the motor's bolts.
If the plate's fit was snug (in that quarter-mooned section on the front of the motor housing's sides), using a longer motor bolt will hold it securely.
Now you have an attachment point to drill, thread and mount a kickstand w/ M5's.
Use M5's so if something dumb happens, your break off the stand, not a chunk of the motor's cast housing.
Not real difficult. A piece of 4" x 1", .25 stainless and a bunch of files (a vice and grinder help too). You may need a drill-press for the holes.
Guess if you want a kickstand you don't mind adding the weight.

Regards

 

[scrambler]

Making a bracket like below out of a 5mm aluminum plate would be fairly easy

and should allow mounting a Kickstand like the one below

Amazon.com

Without risk for the frame

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Making a bracket like below out of a 5mm aluminum plate would be fairly easy
View attachment 100497

View attachment 100498

and should allow mounting a Kickstand like the one below

Amazon.com

Without risk for the frame

That's so 'on time'. You're an artist.
Great 3d work and a great idea - if, rather than using 'clamping force', you epoxied the 'attachment' onto the matrix.
Alloy is also a smart bet, as the kickstand's steel bolts (should) tear out first.
That's why I'd go M5's - rather than (risk) cracking my weak CF frame w/ 11 - 14 x stronger M6's (always feel free to call me on my 'material strengths' certitudes).
The issue: Impact sustained by rigid materials transfers energy to it's edges - with leverage.
'Immovable object; unstoppable force'; soft meets hard.
To steel, carbon is mush. To alloy, carbon is mush. Kevlar has much better abrasion resistance.
I can carve a hole in a Hydra with my SV30 bladed pocketknife, but Carbon Fiber won't do much to my blade.
-
If you wrapped the 'U' of a clamp over the frame (w/a down facing, slotted axle part) it would vastly reduce impact force on the CF.
Because CF suffers severe abrasion against any harder material (metal), the tighter contact area, the more wear. It loosens and thus, you tighten until it grinds off enough your clamp won't tighten sufficiently and/ or the CF structure is compromised/ destroyed.
I know that by now the entire 'hydra farm' (Hi, Rome. Baaa. Baaaa !) is gasping in horror at "gluing stuff on my Hydra"? (but cool w/ silly pedal stands ).
CF's a 'composite matrix'. If you interface adhesive> metal> CF - esp. on a molecular level - you become part of the matrix.
You wanna be badass correct, put a layer of Kevlar between the parts - for plenty more flex before shearing .
If you're worried about removal , wax the metal part first - and do a good job; masking etc.
I'm laughing because I know materials pretty good - why I'm a 'Titanium guy'.
Anticipating my style on a near 'full race' FS machine made me realize 'any FS bikes is badder than I am' or wanna be - let alone in CF.
Like Clint said: A man's got to know his limitations.
I still think a slightly beveled 5mm plate attached w/ that front motor bolt's the strongest/ simplest/ safest and best option.
Been holding back watching this thread from the start.
-
Be nice if WW provided a plate behind the motor casing - Ala: 'If it (is normal and) ain't broke, etc
My Ursus 'V' Jumbo on this 100nm Hub-bike is so friggin' perfect.
I can pack 80lbs in panniers and no tip over problems.
Ugh, rear stands = embarrassing, falling over bikes.
It's another (severe) compromise I'll miss with a Cross Tour - lacking a bottom plate aft the downtube/ chainstay juncture.
I can see that on an ultra-sporty Commuter Bike, but a Cross Tour?
Deploy kickstand and take a big stretch - as bike falls over in a heap?
I keep asking myself: If WW's Ti frames are welded by homeboys in Boston, what's the problem w/ incorporating normal stuff not found on (virtually identical) utterly deficient Chinese TI Ultra frames ?

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

The Sur-Ron inflicts a lot more pain to the chain than a bike like the Hydra, both because of the Power but also the fact it is throttle only, and no gears.

Ultimately it depends how you are using the bike. This is a thing where I would say use it as is and then decide depending how things evolve.
If you trash your chain in no time look for stronger alternative, but otherwise, don't bother

the other issue is the fact that Bicycle Sprockets are not as thick as motorcycle ones, so a larger chain may not work on them

The Sur-Ron inflicts a lot more pain to the chain than a bike like the Hydra.
The very reason this chain will cover an Ultra's big torque, I'm addressing. Something that won't break.
the other issue is the fact that Bicycle Sprockets are not as thick as motorcycle ones
So use thicker ones. Why change the plan?
The problem's Ultras' massive torque. The solution's a fatter chain and - I think - an SA three speed; 33 under, 1/1 and 33 over; w/ a buffed +48T Ring.
A 35mph capable IGH and Bulletproof.

 

[mmcarm]

The Sur-Ron inflicts a lot more pain to the chain than a bike like the Hydra.
The very reason this chain will cover an Ultra's big torque, I'm addressing. Something that won't break.
the other issue is the fact that Bicycle Sprockets are not as thick as motorcycle ones
So use thicker ones. Why change the plan?
The problem's Ultras' massive torque. The solution's a fatter chain and - I think - an SA three speed; 33 under, 1/1 and 33 over; w/ a buffed +48T Ring.
A 35mph capable IGH and Bulletproof.

Looking for a similar bulletproof setup, yes the Sur Ron 420 chain would provide that but it's so noisy and heavy. Oset and Boxxbike (14kw) use a 219 chain but they don't look much beefier than single speed bike chains. Would be great to find someone with experience on the best "tweener" chain solution. I like the 3 speed idea but haven't heard what's the strongest/bulletproof 3spd IGH. On an Ultra discord group one of the members has an Innotrace Ultra and did some custom work with a BAC855 external controller and found that the ultra can run cool at 5kw with an external controller setup. He said the Innotrace components are even better at handling heat than the BAC855 controller. A WattWagons lab external Archon would get really interesting

 

[scrambler]

The 219H on the Boxxbike looks quite beefy to me compare to the pedaling chain.
Sprocket is 4.2mm wide and chain inside width is 4.56mm

 

[mmcarm]

The 219 chain seems to handle 14kw fairly well so I'm sure it would work. The 219 chains are also pretty noisy. I'm really tempted to try a belt. They are light, might reduce power shocks to the IGH and the open Hydra rear frame design seems like it would enable easy replacement.

 

[scrambler]

The 219 chain seems to handle 14kw fairly well so I'm sure it would work. The 219 chains are also pretty noisy. I'm really tempted to try a belt. They are light, might reduce power shocks to the IGH and the open Hydra rear frame design seems like it would enable easy replacement.

But can you find front sprocket and rear sprocket in that width compatible with the Kindernay and Bafang?

The belt is a different Story, as the issue there is the tensioner that would have to take a LOT of slack due to the geometry of the arm and the 170mm travel.
I am hoping the get a small frame Hydra for my wife when they become available and test a prototype on it then