Hydra as a commuter?
- Thread starter coldriderwi
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Deacon Blues
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It's the other way around-not available on the Hydra, but available on the UC, which doesn't have a rear suspension.
Fast n' Furious
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Dang! Not another FS limitation?
I've read about 'some' Kindernay failings/ leaks and Gates drive belts, jumping off.
Rohloff seems to have a better track record - and features.
SA3SP's are said to be the strongest. Rear sprockets go down to
So, now the pro's have chimed in - for these machines - about using a chain.
It makes sense that with changing geometry, a tensioner would be needed for a belt - whereas a derailleur could take up the slack with chain.
It's all academic with a CF bike. You start clamping stuff on that chain-stay, hey ... it's your money.
However, for WW's Ti hardtail frames it's not quite the same.
They have more ring-gear clearance for a larger front ring.
Now that I think it through, I can't tell if the SA3 has cogs that suit these stronger chains.
Getting confusing. Hydra comes w/ kindernay or 11SP - no mention of Gates Drive.
Ti bikes seem to have any combination of drive/ transmission.
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Fast n' Furious
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I woke up out of a sound sleep at 4am, realizing my Selle Anatomica's Carbon Rails are clamped in metal
.I see why they advise 'keep your tail off the seat for bumps', and I do. Ti is way better material for that purpose.
I need to adjust it a bit so I'll check those rails after a few hundred miles in a metal, Kinekt seat-post clamp.
Fast n' Furious
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Okay, so what happened? You gave up on visualizing 'stretch' properties?
I buy channel alloy (and other metal stuff) here: https://www.onlinemetals.com/buy/ma...:Thickness:0.125%22:Legs:1.25%22:Base:1.25%22
Not sure how or why you'd use 'plate', unless you love welding aluminum.
Fast n' Furious
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That's the bomb! Like your bike. The Fox tubes, eh?
Your manufacturing bud can cut that part (Scrambler showed) out of channel.
Good you're working with a composite material guy.
I'd still put it all up front using a plate, attached by the motor bolt. Mid-bike is the position I prefer my stand, but I commute and shop so I carry weight and suffered my bike falling over a few times when I had the rear type.
Fast n' Furious
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That's not 'warship grade' SS. This (5mm) SS is warship grade.
I think it was referred to as 'plate alloy' or vice versa, but he meant 'channel' - like the link I sent you.
The part is clearly designed to be cut from it - that's the brilliance of an engineers mind. Simplicity.
Fast n' Furious
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Okay, so what happened? You gave up on visualizing 'stretch' properties?
Fast n' Furious
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I just don't see the need adding 'unsprung weight'.
Even tires 2lb heavier have a detrimental effect on a 1900lb, 'independent suspension' rally car's handling.
A 60lb bike is >30 times as affected. Adding 2lbs of BS to a Hydra's swing arm = adding 30lbs each to that car's rear wheels - or if it was an R-1200 BMW motorcycle, over 30lbs to it's rear wheel's unsprung weight.
You feel me?
A 5" piece of alloy plate is light. You'll attach the the actual stand bolt & nut, so .25 thick is plenty.
This plate is simple to make. You need a small vice - cheap. $50 worth of good files - suitable for alloy. A grinder would be great to rough it out. Sandpaper. Paper and in some cases counseling, even therapy for 'fear of tools' neurosis.
Using paper, cut out 'a bit oversized', but 'perfect' template and glue it to the alloy plate.
Always measure too large - you'll use your files for the closer clearance work. Measure twice, add 5% and Grind/ Cut once.
Before you start the finishing work drill the hole for the motor's Bolt. You bevel the inner edges of the inside curve - yes, more careful filing and sanding - so when you bolt down the bracket, as it snuggles down it fits tighter.
Cut, file, grind down to the template edge, then hit the files. Test the fit with a bolt through the plate and alter as required.
If you blow it, grab another piece of stock and start over. It's cheap.
Make your own stuff; Mk 1; Mk 2; Mk3; Mk God Status.
If I could see the casing and remove/ measure that bolt it would clarify if a bushing's required, but I tend towards 'shoulder bolts' ...
The casing is clamped tightly - where it's meant to be, to the correct torque - but it allows attaching another part. The quality of the bolt(s) required is discerned by the marks on the stock fastener.
I've read 'Ultra housing is cast Magnesium alloy'. No doubt you're a big boy, but Gorilla cranking that hardened steel bolt is a terrible idea. Find, and stick to specs, and of course, use fat washers to spread the force.
Conveniently, the motor casing provides that area. I can't see the lower bolts, but they might be even better and simpler.
...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................Anyhoo, here's what you need to destroy the weight balance that make the Hydra a true thoroughbred/ FS'.
You may change the foot or leg lengths, file/ mill the edges.
They have all the sizes.
2" x 2" x 0.25" Aluminum Channel 6063-T52 Extruded Architectural - Part #: 7801
https://www.onlinemetals.com/buy/material?q=
rice-asc:Material:Aluminum:Shape:Channel:Alloy:6063:Thickness:0.25%22:Legs:2%22:Base:2%22
Dimensions (In OD)
- Base: 2"
- Equal Legs: 2"
- Thickness: 0.25"
Select a Cut Size for Price
Create Custom Cut
$20.10 ea.
Same tools, more work and a bit risky, but why not?Fn'F
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Fast n' Furious
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I really want to thank you CF frame owners for stimulating an old man to think.I woke up out of a sound sleep at 4am, realizing my Selle Anatomica's Carbon Rails are clamped in metal
I see why they advise 'keep your tail off the seat for bumps', and I do. Ti is way better material for that purpose.
I need to adjust it a bit so I'll check those rails after a few hundred miles in a metal, Kinekt seat-post clamp.
I followed CF materials from buckyballs to the 80's, so seeing CF being used for applications I would've never thought possible, I've mused "Gee these guys got good". "Most of my knowledge has been superseded and manufacturer's have overcome the inherent problems w/ CF.
What I'm trying to say is I hate it when I'm right
. I was hoping I was overly cautious, even paranoid. Hell, 'delusional' would be my preferable verdict.Either way, I reached down to that rail, right at the end of the seat post clamp for a lil' feel and was 'stabbed' in the finger.
If you, like me have actually worked with CF, you know what that means: This is not good.
I'm anal about specs. I torqued that clamp to 6Nm. It replaced the SS tube - I just re- installed that inspired me to jot a few lines.
This is Selle Anatomica's best. I ride off the seat for bumpy terrain and have a Kinekt to absorb shock.
Look at that upper rail.
It cracked and separated directly .25" behind the clamp.
Look at the direction it broke. It must be shattered all the way through. Keep in mind the whitish stuff is not damage. It's all over the rails, which have raised bumps that slightly abrade the carbon. Abrasion is also present in the seat's plastic inserts for the rails. I'd of used Teflon.
You decide.
I'm calling the local manufacturer tomorrow for a replacement.
Did I do something wrong (besides not stick with Ti)?
Anyone knowing a solution to stopping it happening again, I'd like to h
it?Attachments
Deacon Blues
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Any updates on using the Hydra as a semi-commuter?
I presently have a UC Pro, which will eventually be going back to WW for another UC Pro, or new Helios (which could be a fairly long wait)
While I really like how the UC Pro rides (it's a super smooth commuter) and I really like the titanium frame, I have to admit that I don't like the way it looks (cables run outside the frame and external battery).
I do very little mountain bike riding, but I really like how the Hydra looks. So, I'm once again mulling over the possibility of replacing my UC Pro with a Hydra, and installing a more street-able tires and aftermarket fenders.
I have a couple of options for seat post/seat bags that would hold what I need for most of the rides I do (but I will miss using my panniers.....but not much).
So, what do you guys think? Can the Hydra work as a gravel/commuter bike, or is the bike too one-dimensional to be turned into a decent commuter?
Or should I wait for the new UC Pro frames (in a size small) or wait even longer for the new Helios? Most of my rides are in the 30 - 40 mile range, with about 15 miles on that on gravel pathways.
Hydra owners....what do you think? Your feedback would be appreciated.
Ron
I presently have a UC Pro, which will eventually be going back to WW for another UC Pro, or new Helios (which could be a fairly long wait)
While I really like how the UC Pro rides (it's a super smooth commuter) and I really like the titanium frame, I have to admit that I don't like the way it looks (cables run outside the frame and external battery).
I do very little mountain bike riding, but I really like how the Hydra looks. So, I'm once again mulling over the possibility of replacing my UC Pro with a Hydra, and installing a more street-able tires and aftermarket fenders.
I have a couple of options for seat post/seat bags that would hold what I need for most of the rides I do (but I will miss using my panniers.....but not much).
So, what do you guys think? Can the Hydra work as a gravel/commuter bike, or is the bike too one-dimensional to be turned into a decent commuter?
Or should I wait for the new UC Pro frames (in a size small) or wait even longer for the new Helios? Most of my rides are in the 30 - 40 mile range, with about 15 miles on that on gravel pathways.
Hydra owners....what do you think? Your feedback would be appreciated.
Ron
I’m converting my Orange Crush Hydra to a street bike. Ordered Schwalbe Super Moto‘s 27.5X2.8 which will be replacing the trail MTB tires. Might run a small rear fender if I can find one I like.
For a pure commuter my money goes with this bike. For 7K plus shipping you get 72V, 40 mph top speed, regen braking, inverted front suspension fork and more. Plus the fit and finish is amazing! Saw one at my local LBS and the bike is a work of art. Has throttle and pedal assist.
Fast n' Furious
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I dunno Vinnie. It's not street legal and is that a steel frame?
It's rear hub. Cool !!! I love my 48v 1000watt, rear hub machine - but it came at 53lbs new.
At 7K it should have a quality TS and a Cadence Sensor. I paid $2600 delivered. Love the TS.
Not sure if that's an MXUS 72v, but my 100nm torque rated MXUS hub has over 4500miles. I swear it runs better than day one and the crackling/ crunching noises it makes still sound like a Van De graaf generator on meth, so it's not the gears. It's the sound of 1000watts of DC electricity being force fed to a 750watt motor.
Even after my mid-drive UC arrives, other reasons I won't ditch my rear hub machine is the 'get-home' by throttle feature and vastly reduced maintenance.
I'm still running the original chain and it seems fine. I upgraded the sprocket - so I could actually pedal at 30mph and other stuff to my taste.
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Hydra is an off-road beast that commutes just fine. Carry a backpack. Or is this 'Hydra as a K-mart shopper'? LOL. Not happening unless you get a seat-post trailer.
I'd commute the hell outta that bike.
Now Hydra as a Fishing bike just won't work. Adding 5lbs of crap - just to carry panniers that can only hold -4 lbs each while still completely screwing the rear suspension up. But it would be fabulous for scouting the beach, unencumbered and free to kick up a little sand.
Fn'F
Hydroformed Alum frame and built like a tank. Definitely not light at 81 lbs. Listed as 4000w in race mode. 72V battery. Add Gates Belt Drive, Brooks saddle and more street oriented tires and you have my commuter.
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Deacon Blues
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I was hoping that someone who had purchased a WW Hydra and done a fair amount of pavement riding could give me some feedback.
It does very well on the pavement. The FS soaks up the bumps and gives a nice comfy ride. Plus the suspension is adjustable. On the street I run the front fork and rear shock a little firmer vs the trails. It’s actually quite nimble and fast! Big thing is the tires. I’m switching to Schwalbe Super Moto X tires which should be a huge improvement in comfort and control. Downside would be not being able to use rear bags due to the FS setup. Also maybe a more comfortable seat vs what comes on the bike if it’s used solely for commuting. That’s about it. Once I get the new tires on the bike I’ll make a new post of my impressions of the Hydra as a street only bike.
Deacon Blues
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One more pavement friendly tire I came across is the Continental eRuban Plus.
It's a decent road tire and would probably work well on the very easy trails I'd ride on.
It comes in a variety of sizes:
26 x 2.30
27.5 x 2.30
27.5 x 2.6
29 x 2.10
29 x 2.60
It's a decent road tire and would probably work well on the very easy trails I'd ride on.
It comes in a variety of sizes:
26 x 2.30
27.5 x 2.30
27.5 x 2.6
29 x 2.10
29 x 2.60
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