Hello from AZ

Why not get a bike that has no pedals, if you don't pedal?

Or turn the left crank arm by 180 degrees so that they are both down.
Or by 90 degrees to prevent pedal strikes on corners.

I've been thinking about that for over 3 years 🤔




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This idea💡woulda worked pretty good.
It would lock the crank with a few choices of pedal positions, and I could cut it to an appropriate foot peg length.


As much as I don't pedal, I Do want to be able to pedal it.
I don't want to have to pull the crank to get it into pedal mode.

@PedalUma, or anyone else,..

Do you know if there's some sort quick-release crank arm mechanism so I could adjust it as easily as adjusting my seat post??

Pulling a crank is like pulling a bearing. You don't wanna be doing it repeatedly.
 
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I've been thinking about that for over 3 years 🤔




View attachment 215734View attachment 215735

This idea💡woulda worked pretty good.
It would lock the crank with a few choices of pedal positions, and I could cut it to an appropriate foot peg length.


As much as I don't pedal, I Do want to be able to pedal it.
I don't want to have to pull the crank to get it into pedal mode.

@PedalUma, or anyone else,..

Do you know if there's some sort quick-release crank arm mechanism so I could adjust it as easily as adjusting my seat post??

Pulling a crank is like pulling a bearing. You don't wanna be doing it repeatedly.
There has to be something from camping or rock climbing equipment you could adapt. What if one pedal could go backwards relative to the other. When you want to pedal move it back so it opposes the other side.
 
I installed the Magura front brakes without installing the 203 mm rotor initially, as I wanted to see what the caliper itself added to braking. A little longer lever pull (could be the rotor thickness, I suppose, or a minor bleeding issue) but vastly improved braking. I will add the 203 mm rotor this week and reassess.
Hi! Did you add the 203 mm rotor in the end? How was it?
 
I like those little stainless things that go over the rotor and between the pads to center the caliper. I do not know what they are called. @Go-Rilla, are you just doing the front? That is easiest and the most bang for the buck. Hydro through frame to the rear is a huge pain.
 
I like those little stainless things that go over the rotor and between the pads to center the caliper. I do not know what they are called. @Go-Rilla, are you just doing the front? That is easiest and the most bang for the buck. Hydro through frame to the rear is a huge pain.
Just the front. The rear is adequate for the percentage of stopping it contributes.
 
I like those little stainless things that go over the rotor and between the pads to center the caliper. I do not know what they are called. @Go-Rilla, are you just doing the front? That is easiest and the most bang for the buck. Hydro through frame to the rear is a huge pain.
Shimano calls them "brake pad presser springs".
 
Shimano calls them "brake pad presser springs".
Okay, I thought those were the springs behind the pads. This is want I meant. Maybe they are brake pad alignment shims, or something like that. Anyway they work for me. I used to use business cards on either side.
 

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Another positive revealed itself as a result of swapping out the front brakes: I was able to swap the old 2 pot hydraulic set-up onto my Throne BMX instead of the crappy old mechanical lever and caliper it had up front. Huge improvement in braking all round!
 
This big beast of a bike is like an ocean liner in comparison to my other bikes. It is comfortable and fast, but about as agile as a three legged water buffalo in quicksand. I hadn't ridden the big BMX bike for about a month and, even though it, too, is heavy in comparison to other bikes I own, it felt like a feather when I tooled around on it yesterday. Horses for course, to be sure. The ebike is the long distance hauler. The BMX and mountain bikes are for pure fun.
 
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