Hello from AZ

[PedalUma]

Why not get a bike that has no pedals, if you don't pedal?

Or turn the left crank arm by 180 degrees so that they are both down.

 

[PedalUma]

Or turn the left crank arm by 180 degrees so that they are both down.

Or by 90 degrees to prevent pedal strikes on corners.

 

[PCeBiker]

Why not get a bike that has no pedals, if you don't pedal?

Or turn the left crank arm by 180 degrees so that they are both down.

Or by 90 degrees to prevent pedal strikes on corners.

I've been thinking about that for over 3 years

This ideawoulda worked pretty good.
It would lock the crank with a few choices of pedal positions, and I could cut it to an appropriate foot peg length.


As much as I don't pedal, I Do want to be able to pedal it.
I don't want to have to pull the crank to get it into pedal mode.

@PedalUma, or anyone else,..

Do you know if there's some sort quick-release crank arm mechanism so I could adjust it as easily as adjusting my seat post??

Pulling a crank is like pulling a bearing. You don't wanna be doing it repeatedly.

 

[PedalUma]

I've been thinking about that for over 3 years




View attachment 215734View attachment 215735

This ideawoulda worked pretty good.
It would lock the crank with a few choices of pedal positions, and I could cut it to an appropriate foot peg length.


As much as I don't pedal, I Do want to be able to pedal it.
I don't want to have to pull the crank to get it into pedal mode.

@PedalUma, or anyone else,..

Do you know if there's some sort quick-release crank arm mechanism so I could adjust it as easily as adjusting my seat post??

Pulling a crank is like pulling a bearing. You don't wanna be doing it repeatedly.

There has to be something from camping or rock climbing equipment you could adapt. What if one pedal could go backwards relative to the other. When you want to pedal move it back so it opposes the other side.

 

[emilycarter00]

I installed the Magura front brakes without installing the 203 mm rotor initially, as I wanted to see what the caliper itself added to braking. A little longer lever pull (could be the rotor thickness, I suppose, or a minor bleeding issue) but vastly improved braking. I will add the 203 mm rotor this week and reassess.

Hi! Did you add the 203 mm rotor in the end? How was it?

 

[Go-Rilla]

I still need to throw the rotor on. I have the rotor and the adapter. Headed out of town this weekend, but I will have it done next week.

 

[PedalUma]

I like those little stainless things that go over the rotor and between the pads to center the caliper. I do not know what they are called. @Go-Rilla, are you just doing the front? That is easiest and the most bang for the buck. Hydro through frame to the rear is a huge pain.

 

[Go-Rilla]

I like those little stainless things that go over the rotor and between the pads to center the caliper. I do not know what they are called. @Go-Rilla, are you just doing the front? That is easiest and the most bang for the buck. Hydro through frame to the rear is a huge pain.

Just the front. The rear is adequate for the percentage of stopping it contributes.

 

[stompandgo]

I like those little stainless things that go over the rotor and between the pads to center the caliper. I do not know what they are called. @Go-Rilla, are you just doing the front? That is easiest and the most bang for the buck. Hydro through frame to the rear is a huge pain.

Shimano calls them "brake pad presser springs".

 

[PedalUma]

Shimano calls them "brake pad presser springs".

Okay, I thought those were the springs behind the pads. This is want I meant. Maybe they are brake pad alignment shims, or something like that. Anyway they work for me. I used to use business cards on either side.