Hello! and I think I want to build my very first ebike(compact cargo)!

[PedalUma]

I had an adjustment stem on my ebike and it started creaking, so I replaced it with riser bars and an angled stem.

If you don't need to be adjusting your angle once it is set, a stem riser is a stronger option.

The only advantage to adjustable is if you are not sure about the best geometry for you. And so you want to try different configurations to see what works best. Some are better than others.

 

[PCeBiker]

The only advantage to adjustable is if you are not sure about the best geometry for you. And so you want to try different configurations to see what works best. Some are better than others.

That's true.
When I bought my new handlebars and stem, I sat on my ebike and held my hands out in front of me to where it thought that I'd like my grips to be.
Then I got out the tape measure and tried to measure everything which was pretty difficult with all the angles going on.

It worked out good for me though and I'm sitting up perfectly straight.

I did everything bass ackwards though and my e-bike looks kinda stupid.

I should have went with a stem riser and those handlebars that you posted.

 

[PedalUma]

Since we are posting photos here is the bike I made electric yesterday. And then the review she wrote this morning. She was an avid cyclist in the Sacramento (flat) area. She married a CHP officer after he graduated the academy there. And he was transferred here where we have big hills. Then she had two babies in a row. For now she can take the kids on her bike but soon she will need a trailer. That is why I used a powerful cargo motor. The odd blob on the seat tube is for the rear kid seat. Her battery goes in the water bottle cage. Zip tie free is like skinny dipping.

Mila O.
1 review

8 hours ago
NEW

If you’re looking for an amazing e-bike, this is the place to go! Rick is the nicest guy, he really knows his stuff and stands behind his product. But not just that, he uses some amazing technology. I am so happy I went to him for an e-bike conversion. After test riding a very expensive e-bike I decided instead to convert my existing bike. Rick had a super quick turn around and the tech really surpassed my expectations. It’s MUCH better than the e-bike I test rode. Everything is incredibly smooth and doesn’t even feel like you have power behind you. It really just feels like you have super strength on these hills. It’s made biking around hilly Petaluma incredibly fun. I also love how sleek everything looks. You can’t really tell it’s electric at all, aside from the water bottle looking battery. 10/10 recommend, you will be so glad you did!

1

Share
Response from the owner 8 hours ago
Thank you, Mila! Start thinking about trailers for the kids. Your cargo motor is ideal for a trailer on the hills.

 

[freckles]

Since we are posting photos here is the bike I made electric yesterday. And then the review she wrote this morning. She was an avid cyclist in the Sacramento (flat) area. She married a CHP officer after he graduated the academy there. And he was transferred here where we have big hills. Then she had two babies in a row. For now she can take the kids on her bike but soon she will need a trailer. That is why I used a powerful cargo motor. The odd blob on the seat tube is for the rear kid seat. Her battery goes in the water bottle cage. Zip tie free is like skinny dipping.

Mila O.
1 review

8 hours ago
NEW

If you’re looking for an amazing e-bike, this is the place to go! Rick is the nicest guy, he really knows his stuff and stands behind his product. But not just that, he uses some amazing technology. I am so happy I went to him for an e-bike conversion. After test riding a very expensive e-bike I decided instead to convert my existing bike. Rick had a super quick turn around and the tech really surpassed my expectations. It’s MUCH better than the e-bike I test rode. Everything is incredibly smooth and doesn’t even feel like you have power behind you. It really just feels like you have super strength on these hills. It’s made biking around hilly Petaluma incredibly fun. I also love how sleek everything looks. You can’t really tell it’s electric at all, aside from the water bottle looking battery. 10/10 recommend, you will be so glad you did!

1

Share
Response from the owner 8 hours ago
Thank you, Mila! Start thinking about trailers for the kids. Your cargo motor is ideal for a trailer on the hills.

What is the cargo motor you installed?

 

[PedalUma]

TSDZ2-B. Like this one that I rode for the first time today. 90Nm. This one has the torque sensor and a throttle but with no ugly connections or extra wires and it has a throttle. It is the only bike like it. That is a clean handlebar. I soldered thru-frame.

 

[PCeBiker]

You're cheating !!!
I see no motor on that bike ?

I had to Google it.

I want to see that picture with the right handlebar leaning against the window.


Interestingly,.. my bike has only 60 NM and weighs 90 pounds with the accessories and tools.
I wonder how our bikes compare?

We should trade bikes for a week.


I dunno??
That motor sounds a little delicate to me?

Tongsheng grinding

I have a Tongsheng TSDZ2 mid-drive motor, which suits me well and on which I have ridden about 2000km. Recently, though, a horrible grinding noise has emerged when I am riding. I have done some analysis of this and discovered: the problem only occurs when pedaling - there is no noise when...

electricbikereview.com

If you're OK with me breaking your Tongsheng motor, I'm OK with you breaking my Das-Kit motor.

 

[PedalUma]

The older versions have problems when you don't lube the tranny. That gray wire is in the process of being run to the battery. The light gray blends in nicely with the frame color. That wire is actually two tone because it is black on the underside and where it enters the motor housing. Because these motors pull chain thru the gears they are highly efficient.

 

[PedalUma]

I am a big fat cheater. I admit it. In that last picture, if you zoom to the middle of the handlebar you will see a gray wire headed inside the handlebar to the display on the left. I can only be so sneaky. But I still mostly get away with it. It is so fun to blast past guys in spandex shorts on a bike that does not look electric. Come visit the alternate CA and we will go for a ride. At 4 PM today I had to dress for Canadian Thanksgiving. A 10C fog bank rolled in. The nights are too cold for mosquitos. They don't stand a chance.

 

[freckles]

TSDZ2-B. Like this one that I rode for the first time today. 90Nm. This one has the torque sensor and a throttle but with no ugly connections or extra wires and it has a throttle. It is the only bike like it. That is a clean handlebar. I soldered thru-frame.

Wow! Where is the throttle? And what size battery is that?

 

[PedalUma]

The throttle is on the inside of the right shift hood. That is a custom made battery in an aluminum housing. It has super premium cells and a super premium battery management chip that talks to the charger and can charge to 90% for long service live. It is 48V 7Ah or can get a 48V 10.5 for longer rides. Some opt for two batteries of different sizes depending on the ride of the day.

 

[freckles]

For those that have done conversions- is there a specific bike tool kit you recommend that's reasonably priced?
.
I have some basic tools- random socket wrenches, bike multi tool, pedal wrench, tire lifters, caliper, basic home tools and solder iron.

My list to buy include- crank puller, bottom bracket remover, bottom bracket wrench. These seem to be part of general bike tool kits.
Do I need a 3 in 1 multi function wrench bottom bracket spanner?

 

[m@Robertson]

For those that have done conversions- is there a specific bike tool kit you recommend that's reasonably priced?
.
I have some basic tools- random socket wrenches, bike multi tool, pedal wrench, tire lifters, caliper, basic home tools and solder iron.

My list to buy include- crank puller, bottom bracket remover, bottom bracket wrench. These seem to be part of general bike tool kits.
Do I need a 3 in 1 multi function wrench bottom bracket spanner?

I would do individual parts. Forget about a tool kit. No such thing that is worth owning, really.

I did a series on how to build an ebike that has a dedicated chapter that lists every tool necessary.

How To Build An Ebike From Scratch: Tools List

What tools are needed to build a complete ebike (or a normal bicycle, really)? Here’s your list.

talesontwowheels.com

... and while I'm at it, I see there has been some discussion on gear sensors.

BBS02 and BBSHD: Do I want a gear sensor?

This is a common question on BBSHD and BBS02 motors, so I thought I would write up a quick post and describe what can be done, and what I do.

talesontwowheels.com

You can take out any lag - among other things - on the BBSHD by using its settings interface to TOTALLY change the character of that motor. More on that at the same site. Check the table of contents.

 

[freckles]

I would do individual parts. Forget about a tool kit. No such thing that is worth owning, really.

I did a series on how to build an ebike that has a dedicated chapter that lists every tool necessary.

How To Build An Ebike From Scratch: Tools List

What tools are needed to build a complete ebike (or a normal bicycle, really)? Here’s your list.

talesontwowheels.com

... and while I'm at it, I see there has been some discussion on gear sensors.

BBS02 and BBSHD: Do I want a gear sensor?

This is a common question on BBSHD and BBS02 motors, so I thought I would write up a quick post and describe what can be done, and what I do.

talesontwowheels.com

You can take out any lag - among other things - on the BBSHD by using its settings interface to TOTALLY change the character of that motor. More on that at the same site. Check the table of contents.

Thank you!

I followed your list and Johnny Nerdout's recommendations (though it was specific for Bafang installation) and am making a list. My plan is for a Tongsheng mid driver conversion on a Tern Short Haul (mostly (I think) Shimano parts).

Question: crank puller- Park Tool CCP-22 or CWP-7? Are they the same except the CCP-22 comes w/handle?
bottom bracket removal tool- Bikehand brand ok?
are torque wrenches and 3 in 1 multi function wrench bottom bracket spanner- needed for Tongsheng installation?

List to buy- Bondhus Long Allen wrench set, Masterlink pliers, crank puller (either Park Tool CCP-22 or CWP-7), bottom bracket removal too (Bikehand?) and zip ties.

 

[m@Robertson]

Question: crank puller- Park Tool CCP-22 or CWP-7? Are they the same except the CCP-22 comes w/handle?

I have both. Yes they are the same - meant for ISIS and square taper/JIS cranks. I have been using a CWP-7 for many years and I just bought a CCP-22. I bought another one because I have misplaced the little original. So I wanted the one with the handle so it will be harder to disappear. Proper threading on these is a huge deal so I buy the Park tools.

bottom bracket removal tool- Bikehand brand ok?

Maybe. The Park tools are only a couple bucks more so I would go that route. Park is the gold standard of bike tools, generally, but oftentimes they take advantage of that with stupid price points. This is not the case with the BB tools.

are torque wrenches and 3 in 1 multi function wrench bottom bracket spanner- needed for Tongsheng installation?

A torque wrench belongs in every bike mechanic's toolbox. The small 1/4" size for all the little stuff, but considering that no matter what you are going to have to affix crankarms, square taper crankarms will loosen, and proper crankarm torque is almost universally done wrong without a torque wrench... yeah you need them if you don't want to half-ass the job which a great many do.

 

[PedalUma]

You will need a bottom bracket socket. I use an 18 inch extendable breaker bar ratchet from Tractor Supply. It was cheap to buy and I have used it every day for 6 years. One important item is blue thread lock. Put it on everything that fastens. But not on the square taper.

 

[freckles]

You will need a bottom bracket socket. I use an 18 inch extendable breaker bar ratchet from Tractor Supply. It was cheap to buy and I have used it every day for 6 years. One important item is blue thread lock. Put it on everything that fastens. But not on the square taper.

Please forgive my ignorance but is the bottom bracket socket the same as bottom bracket tool or bottom bracket remover? Can you link or recommend a specific bottom bracket socket? I will check my local Harbor Freight for an extendable breaker bar. 3/8" or 1/2" breaker bar?

Also, I took it for a quick ride to see if it'll fit in my crappy pie shaped locker at work- its does not So my dreams taking a ride after work or errands are suspended for now. I love how it can stand vertically- will try to beg about storing it inside vertically at work. It rides and handles well and feels zippy- Adding the Tongsheng will make it even funner!

Still not sure about the 170mm cranks but I'm able to gain speed quicker than my current bike (150 mm cranks)- does crank length make a difference?

 

[freckles]

I have both. Yes they are the same - meant for ISIS and square taper/JIS cranks. I have been using a CWP-7 for many years and I just bought a CCP-22. I bought another one because I have misplaced the little original. So I wanted the one with the handle so it will be harder to disappear. Proper threading on these is a huge deal so I buy the Park tools.

Maybe. The Park tools are only a couple bucks more so I would go that route. Park is the gold standard of bike tools, generally, but oftentimes they take advantage of that with stupid price points. This is not the case with the BB tools.

A torque wrench belongs in every bike mechanic's toolbox. The small 1/4" size for all the little stuff, but considering that no matter what you are going to have to affix crankarms, square taper crankarms will loosen, and proper crankarm torque is almost universally done wrong without a torque wrench... yeah you need them if you don't want to half-ass the job which a great many do.

Thank you.

I will go for the Parks crank puller and bottom bracket removal tool. The torque wrench...first I'll see if a mechanic friend might have one to lend and if I really need to buy it, will work the overtime for it. I am willing to buy quality when needed.

 

[m@Robertson]

Still not sure about the 170mm cranks but I'm able to gain speed quicker than my current bike (150 mm cranks)- does crank length make a difference?

Size matters Long ones give you lots of leverage and take more effort to spin up. 175mm is the biggest you will find on a conventional bike that is not doing some weird special duty or being ridden by a basketball player. 170's are perhaps the most common size of all. If you have 150's then those are crankarms so short they are typically only used on unicycles. Seriously. A really short crankarm for an mtb banging around in rock gardens is a 160. You do shorter arms because they are very easy to spin up fast, and reduce pedal strikes in said rock gardens. Their drawback is lower top speed since you are spinning around like crazy with the shorties.

... if I really need to buy it, will work the overtime for it. I am willing to buy quality when needed.

Don't forget in that article I laid out a couple of cheap alternatives that will be good enough for light use. You can see there how I also went top-drawer and I do love the things... but not necessary for only occasional use on a single bike.

 

[freckles]

Size matters Long ones give you lots of leverage and take more effort to spin up. 175mm is the biggest you will find on a conventional bike that is not doing some weird special duty or being ridden by a basketball player. 170's are perhaps the most common size of all. If you have 150's then those are crankarms so short they are typically only used on unicycles. Seriously. A really short crankarm for an mtb banging around in rock gardens is a 160. You do shorter arms because they are very easy to spin up fast, and reduce pedal strikes in said rock gardens. Their drawback is lower top speed since you are spinning around like crazy with the shorties.


Don't forget in that article I laid out a couple of cheap alternatives that will be good enough for light use. You can see there how I also went top-drawer and I do love the things... but not necessary for only occasional use on a single bike.

I think I chose 150 mm cranks on my current 20" bike b/c I am short with a 28.5" inseam to make pedaling circles easier for my short legs That bike is much faster and more nimble than my Dutch bike was.
The Dutch bike, which I absolutely adored, was just too large of a bike for me (w/170mm cranks).
The Tern Short Haul, also 20" wheels, has 170mm cranks and gets up to speed faster than my current w/150mm...gotta decide to stay w/170 or maybe 160 or 165mm for my short legs.

Perhaps you know the answer- PedalUma posted above that I need a bottom bracket socket. Is that the same as the bottom bracket removal tool/bottom bracket tool(which I think are the same)? Some tools look similar but are not, some tools have different names but are the same....

 

[None]

From my experience of converting (nearly a dozen of) bicycles into ebike since 2013;
I can say that (for your purpose) getting a complete ebike straight from manufacture would be much less hassle & likely cost much less than trying to find a donor bicycle/frame and convert to an ebike.

Even if you have to change out the stock crankset for shorter cranks and perform other mods to make the ebike suit you specifically.

My Fiido T1 cost $1499 with free shipping, modify stem/handlebar/grips/crankset/seatpost/seat, all combined less than $200.

Personally, I would have started planning in the winter time and made the purchase for ebike & parts prior to the riding season.
Because right now, at the height of cycling season, unless stores have them in stock and ready to move; anything that needs to be ordered will be longer than expected.