handlebar rise or longer goose neck?

[ptegler]

which is the safer configuration, installing a taller gooseneck, or installing riser handlebars to raise the hand position?
I understand which is simpler to swap, but I'm having a problem with finding higher rise handlebars that leave enough space for grips, throttle, brakes etc before the bends
Hence the initial question tia

 

[AHicks]

I generally have to do something here to get the upright riding position I prefer every time I get a new bike. I've tried both methods, one at a time, and both at the same time, and to me, for my riding style, find it doesn't make one bit of difference how I do it. The target height is the issue. How you get there doesn't seem important. Not to me anyway....

That said, I would advise people to keep an eye on their cable lengths. It's pretty easy to get the handlebars up high enough to over extend the cables and brake lines.... -Al

 

[Bicyclista]

@ptegler, Jones H-Bar with 2.5-inch rise. The 45-degree backsweep helps the hand/wrist position enormously. Jones H-bars have a lot of room for accesories. If the rise and backsweep are not enough for you, install a stem riser or two while making sure your cables and brake lines are long enough, as @AHicks notes above. @Fast n' Furious (in another thread) says he is selling an unused Jones H-Bar with 2.5-inch rise.

Since you are concerned about having enough room for grips, throttle, brakes, etc., make sure you get the 710mm-long version, not the shorter 660mm one.

 

[Litebike]

The stem extenders work really well and don't look as goofy as high rise bars imo. The catch is you have to tighten the bolts very tight onto the stem to keep the bars from twisting under load. I found that a dab of anti-seize on the bolt threads will allow you to get the bolts very tight without stripping the threads due to binding of the dissimilar metals of stem and bolts. It's critical to only get the anti-seize compound on the bolt threads so use it carefully. Some stem extenders are thicker at the bolt area and have more threads to work with.

 

[PedalUma]

Is it a 31.8 or a quill stem? I will just replace the housings with longer ones. There are also articulating risers so you can dial in the angle that is most comfortable.

 

[PCeBiker]

There are also articulating risers so you can dial in the angle that is most comfortable.

That's what I've got and I like it.

The only problem is that I noticed some creaking going on.
I'm not sure where exactly it's coming from. I need to investigate.

From what I understand, adjustable stems aren't as strong, they need to be kept tightened up securely, and they can snap a lot easier than a solid stem.
And of course if it ever snaps, it's going to happen at the very worst time possible.

 

[PCeBiker]

I found that a dab of anti-seize on the bolt threads will allow you to get the bolts very tight without stripping the threads due to binding of the dissimilar metals of stem and bolts. It's critical to only get the anti-seize compound on the bolt threads so use it carefully.

I'm going do try that.
Thanks for the tip.

 

[PedalUma]

I regularly use aluminized antiseize when mounting mid-drives. It cannot compress - sort of like hydraulic fluid but viscous.
When I saw these mud flaps today I thought of @PCeBiker and @Rome.

 

[Litebike]

When adding a fork stem extender... remember the taller it is, the shorter the arm reach. To compensate you can use a longer bar stem especially with flat bars that don't have much adjustment.

 

[PedalUma]

I think that, that is exactly what he is looking for, a straighter back with less HungChing and RiChing. More of a Dutch posture. Look how long the head tube is on a Dutch bike. It is about 90% as long as the fork. And see the raked back angle? She does not need to stoop. Pressure is off her hands and her elbows are slightly bent, relaxed.

 

[PedalUma]

gooseneck

A 22mm gooseneck riser looks like this. It is not at all like a MTB. They can also be 'flipped' to bring the HB in, closer. Did you like the mud flaps? I thought you might like them. I just noticed that she only has one arm, which is kind of strange. I like the one where she is reading a book and has two arms.

 

[PedalUma]

2" wake riser

Ditch the wires and connectors. This is a Bafang build then a clean one.

 

[PCeBiker]

That's what I've got and I like it.

The only problem is that I noticed some creaking going on.
I'm not sure where exactly it's coming from. I need to investigate.

A bit of an update,..
I managed to find and stop the creaking.
It turned out that the pinch bolt wasn't tight enough.

You can see where the bolt is shiny from rubbing, caused by the twisting of the stem.
The stem had some shiny spots too, so I scuffed them out with fine sandpaper then reinstalled everything with anti-seize on the threads of the pinch bolt.

The creaking has stopped.
That was making me kinda nervous.

 

[PCeBiker]

Ditch the wires and connectors. This is a Bafang build then a clean one.

I'm curious as to what you mean by that?
My bike won't run without the display and it's cable & connector. And I really don't want to do without my brake switches.

Are you suggesting deleting all this, or drilling holes in the handlebars, stem, and frame to run the wires inside, and hide all the wiring?

I've got wires all over the place and the only reason that I care is that I don't want to get hung on something and rip a wire off.

 

[PedalUma]

Here is a Bafang build. The weird wire to the left is the fork lockout. I deleted the extra connectors and wires to help clean it up. I am working on a one wire bike today with a coaster brake. It is getting a basket, so that wire will largely disappear. It is the final image below.

 

[TrevorB]

Don't do any MTBing, even gentle trails with adjustable stems and extensions. One large hit on front wheel and they could break.

 

[AHicks]

Don't do any MTBing, even gentle trails with adjustable stems and extensions. One large hit on front wheel and they could break.

You could break a fork too, or a pedal, or etc....... , but how often do we hear about those? Clearly it would only make sense to have an idea of what type of riding you're planning on when picking out parts like these.....

 

[ElevenAD]

Riser Bars are the safer option.

 

[PCeBiker]

A bit of an update,..
I managed to find and stop the creaking.
It turned out that the pinch bolt wasn't tight enough.

The creaking has stopped.
That was making me kinda nervous.

Well, the creaking started happening again, so I bought this stuff, and planned on reusing my handlebars.

But then I read this post and I changed my mind.

Riser Bars are the safer option.

So I bought this stuff instead,..

The handlebars turned out to be quite cheap. I figure because they are really common on folding ebikes.

 

[PCeBiker]

which is the safer configuration, installing a taller gooseneck, or installing riser handlebars to raise the hand position?
I understand which is simpler to swap, but I'm having a problem with finding higher rise handlebars that leave enough space for grips, throttle, brakes etc before the bends
Hence the initial question tia

Here's a link to the handlebars that I bought.
They come in three sizes.
The handlebar ends have the same amount of space as my original handlebars, and they are 22.2 mm in diameter so everything will fit.
(A lot of handlebars that I looked at had a bigger diameter.)

Keep in mind the diameter where the stem attaches.
My original handlebars are 22.2 mm at the stem and almost all handlebars are 25.4 mm at the stem.

C$ 17.62 28%OFF | Mountain Bike Handlebar 25.4mm Diameter 580mm Extra Long Handlebar Aluminum Alloy Folding Road Bike Riser Bar

https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0CvXGc