Generic MD 1000 and HD 750 ebike model discussion

[RMK!]

As a follow up on my crank arm bolt issue, just reinstalling and tightening the bolt did not work. After a brief test ride it seemed fine but at the mid point of a 35 mile ride yesterday I checked it and it was loose again. There is a good bike shop along the route and I stopped in for an opinion. They checked it out and suggested using Loctite on the threads of both crank bolts and they did this for me. I rechecked at the end of the ride and again this morning and it's still tight and I believe that's a good solution.

So for all of you with an MD 1000, MD 750 or a HD 750 I suggest using Loctite on the crank bolts as an easy preventive measure.

 

[tykoehn1]

Hey guys I finally got my bikes the other day, the weather has been cold and wet so I have been fiddling with the tuning. The batteries connected to the bike were reading zero voltage due to the bms system disconnecting the circuit. The spare batteries were at 50 volts. So storing the batteries out of bike for long term storage is a smart idea. I notice the igh has a red and yellow line around 12 o'clock and the two yellow lines around 4-5 o'clock. I was able to get the two yellow lines to line up with minor adjustment in second gear. Before you could hear it wasnt engaging well in second before the adjustment when pedaling with the rear wheel off the ground. The igh manual says use the red and yellow line when the folcrum is set to a vertical dropout and the yellow lines for a standard or reverse fork. Leili said they use standard. I'm going to get Sturmey Archers opinion on the folcrum setting. I'm going to have to follow the shifter cable to make sure it's straight as possible. Maybe spray some lube down the cable.
Also my belt drive was extremely loose and the spokes all needed tightening

I'm going to make a new thread for initial setup/tuning and the necessary tools needed. Hoping to have it created in a week or two.

 

[Terry777]

Hey guys I finally got my bikes the other day, the weather has been cold and wet so I have been fiddling with the tuning. The batteries connected to the bike were reading zero voltage due to the bms system disconnecting the circuit. The spare batteries were at 50 volts. So storing the batteries out of bike for long term storage is a smart idea. I notice the igh has a red and yellow line around 12 o'clock and the two yellow lines around 4-5 o'clock. I was able to get the two yellow lines to line up with minor adjustment in second gear. Before you could hear it wasnt engaging well in second before the adjustment when pedaling with the rear wheel off the ground. The igh manual says use the red and yellow line when the folcrum is set to a vertical dropout and the yellow lines for a standard or reverse fork. Leili said they use standard. I'm going to get Sturmey Archers opinion on the folcrum setting. I'm going to have to follow the shifter cable to make sure it's straight as possible. Maybe spray some lube down the cable.
Also my belt drive was extremely loose and the spokes all needed tightening

I'm going to make a new thread for initial setup/tuning and the necessary tools needed. Hoping to have it created in a week or two.

Woohoo!! That’s great news buddy! Really happy for you!
They must still be struggling to get bikes out! Surely they must have building down to sharp point now the amount of them they are churning out!
I’ve also found a few issues that seemed to be more sloppy workmanship than pure bad building. Just little finishing touches that take that extra minute at the end when your building something. I thought it was me being picky but seems a few little things have cropped up between all of us. I just changed a trigger shifter cable out last week so checking your cables etc is a sound idea.
A little bit of extra cable sleeve was left on between the cable guides instead of trimming it down to the correct size was what caused it on mine I think. The gear indicator on the shifter was broken on delivery when I got mine so that may be a clue. I reported that, but was asked if I needed a fully assembled rear wheel at first, then fobbed off when I explained what it was. A two second job missed their end cost me £40 and an afternoon fixing it my end. Was a real fiddly job too. I’d say that happening to anyone without some bike or motoX or whatever knowledge/experience would be stranded first of all when it happened. The wheel sprocket popped off too right when it happened so it looked like a real mash up, then be at their LBS mercy after to get it fixed. I was able to bodge it enough to get home. I never lost anything either which is a bit of a miracle as the end plate comes off when the locking split ring comes off too. The setting of the initial cable length then getting the little catch/lug nut to set on the cable then lock in to the keeper is a real head nipper!
You may have to adjust yours again at the trigger end as the cable settles, I did. Others haven’t so just your luck.

 

[Terry777]

Woohoo!! That’s great news buddy! Really happy for you!
They must still be struggling to get bikes out! Surely they must have building down to sharp point now the amount of them they are churning out!
I’ve also found a few issues that seemed to be more sloppy workmanship than pure bad building. Just little finishing touches that take that extra minute at the end when your building something. I thought it was me being picky but seems a few little things have cropped up between all of us. I just changed a trigger shifter cable out last week so checking your cables etc is a sound idea.
A little bit of extra cable sleeve was left on between the cable guides instead of trimming it down to the correct size was what caused it on mine I think. The gear indicator on the shifter was broken on delivery when I got mine so that may be a clue. I reported that, but was asked if I needed a fully assembled rear wheel at first, then fobbed off when I explained what it was. A two second job missed their end cost me £40 and an afternoon fixing it my end. Was a real fiddly job too. I’d say that happening to anyone without some bike or motoX or whatever knowledge/experience would be stranded first of all when it happened. The wheel sprocket popped off too right when it happened so it looked like a real mash up, then be at their LBS mercy after to get it fixed. I was able to bodge it enough to get home. I never lost anything either which is a bit of a miracle as the end plate comes off when the locking split ring comes off too. The setting of the initial cable length then getting the little catch/lug nut to set on the cable then lock in to the keeper is a real head nipper!
You may have to adjust yours again at the trigger end as the cable settles, I did. Others haven’t so just your luck.

Oh, nearly forgot! Just fitted the Cloud 9 seat on the Suntour NCX post so will let you all know how that goes when I get out again. It’s cold with snow and ice everywhere here again so dunno when I’ll get out.

 

[RMK!]

Hey guys I finally got my bikes the other day, the weather has been cold and wet so I have been fiddling with the tuning. The batteries connected to the bike were reading zero voltage due to the bms system disconnecting the circuit. The spare batteries were at 50 volts. So storing the batteries out of bike for long term storage is a smart idea. I notice the igh has a red and yellow line around 12 o'clock and the two yellow lines around 4-5 o'clock. I was able to get the two yellow lines to line up with minor adjustment in second gear. Before you could hear it wasnt engaging well in second before the adjustment when pedaling with the rear wheel off the ground. The igh manual says use the red and yellow line when the folcrum is set to a vertical dropout and the yellow lines for a standard or reverse fork. Leili said they use standard. I'm going to get Sturmey Archers opinion on the folcrum setting. I'm going to have to follow the shifter cable to make sure it's straight as possible. Maybe spray some lube down the cable.
Also my belt drive was extremely loose and the spokes all needed tightening

I'm going to make a new thread for initial setup/tuning and the necessary tools needed. Hoping to have it created in a week or two.

Great news! Can you take some photos of the IGH settings? By fulcrum are you referring to the shift cable attachment tab on the IGH? The shift cable is very stiff on down shifting but up shifting is no problem which tells me the cable routing is fine. If you discover anything that helps down shifting please advise. Mine has loosened up a bit but is still stiff.

 

[tykoehn1]

Great news! Can you take some photos of the IGH settings? By fulcrum are you referring to the shift cable attachment tab on the IGH? The shift cable is very stiff on down shifting but up shifting is no problem which tells me the cable routing is fine. If you discover anything that helps down shifting please advise. Mine has loosened up a bit but is still stiff.

I believe when we down shift we are making the cable tighter and upshifting gives it the most slack, hence why it's installed in fifth gear. It would makes sense it's harder to downshift but it would be nice if it was easier. I'll attach a screenshot from the manual of the fulcrum lever. I didn't pull the wheel off the bike to inspect what setting it was on but that supposedly affects when color lines we line up in second gear.

I also noticed they use the standard/reverse lockwasher instead of the vertical.

 

[WhitzATL]

I thought about switching out to this: DLC50

Sturmey-Archer | DLC50

For more than 100 years, Sturmey-Archer has been a pioneer in the design of internal gear hubs, hub brakes and dynamo lighting. Sturmey-Archer makes cycling easier and safer.

www.sturmey-archer.com

 

[tykoehn1]

I thought about switching out to this: DLC50
View attachment 78833

Sturmey-Archer | DLC50

For more than 100 years, Sturmey-Archer has been a pioneer in the design of internal gear hubs, hub brakes and dynamo lighting. Sturmey-Archer makes cycling easier and safer.

www.sturmey-archer.com

Isn't that the one it comes with lol

 

[WhitzATL]

Is it? I don't have my bike yet! lol

 

[RMK!]

Woohoo!! That’s great news buddy! Really happy for you!
They must still be struggling to get bikes out! Surely they must have building down to sharp point now the amount of them they are churning out!
I’ve also found a few issues that seemed to be more sloppy workmanship than pure bad building. Just little finishing touches that take that extra minute at the end when your building something. I thought it was me being picky but seems a few little things have cropped up between all of us. I just changed a trigger shifter cable out last week so checking your cables etc is a sound idea.
A little bit of extra cable sleeve was left on between the cable guides instead of trimming it down to the correct size was what caused it on mine I think. The gear indicator on the shifter was broken on delivery when I got mine so that may be a clue. I reported that, but was asked if I needed a fully assembled rear wheel at first, then fobbed off when I explained what it was. A two second job missed their end cost me £40 and an afternoon fixing it my end. Was a real fiddly job too. I’d say that happening to anyone without some bike or motoX or whatever knowledge/experience would be stranded first of all when it happened. The wheel sprocket popped off too right when it happened so it looked like a real mash up, then be at their LBS mercy after to get it fixed. I was able to bodge it enough to get home. I never lost anything either which is a bit of a miracle as the end plate comes off when the locking split ring comes off too. The setting of the initial cable length then getting the little catch/lug nut to set on the cable then lock in to the keeper is a real head nipper!
You may have to adjust yours again at the trigger end as the cable settles, I did. Others haven’t so just your luck.

I was told the Sturmey Archer IGH comes as a complete kit and they have had sourcing issues so not surprising they have problems getting extra components like the trigger shifter.

Also, you said your wheel "sprocket popped off" while riding? Are you talking about the Gates Belt rear sprocket? I can't see how that could happen.

 

[RMK!]

With over 500 miles on the MD 1000 some fiddly things are happening. The main charger port is now loose. There is no way to access and tighten it without removing the battery lock plate inside the battery compartment. I'm thinking some super glue and forget it.

Also, on the IGH adjustment I can't get the 2 yellow marks to line up. I have turned the trigger shifter adjustment clockwise as far as it will go and it is still not aligned. Seems to be an issue in 3rd gear but the other gears seem solid. 3rd gear is useful when single track trail riding so I need to get this resolved. Suggestions welcome.

 

[Terry777]

Great news! Can you take some photos of the IGH settings? By fulcrum are you referring to the shift cable attachment tab on the IGH? The shift cable is very stiff on down shifting but up shifting is no problem which tells me the cable routing is fine. If you discover anything that helps down shifting please advise. Mine has loosened up a bit but is still stiff.

K

I was told the Sturmey Archer IGH comes as a complete kit and they have had sourcing issues so not surprising they have problems getting extra components like the trigger shifter.

Also, you said your wheel "sprocket popped off" while riding? Are you talking about the Gates Belt rear sprocket? I can't see how that could happen.

If you look at the sprocket on the rear wheel there is a thick silver split ring that holds the sprocket in place. It also holds the drive side casing for the IGH.

 

[Terry777]

I thought about switching out to this: DLC50
View attachment 78833

Sturmey-Archer | DLC50

For more than 100 years, Sturmey-Archer has been a pioneer in the design of internal gear hubs, hub brakes and dynamo lighting. Sturmey-Archer makes cycling easier and safer.

www.sturmey-archer.com

Isn’t it the 750 hub drive you ordered bro?

 

[Terry777]

With over 500 miles on the MD 1000 some fiddly things are happening. The main charger port is now loose. There is no way to access and tighten it without removing the battery lock plate inside the battery compartment. I'm thinking some super glue and forget it.

Also, on the IGH adjustment I can't get the 2 yellow marks to line up. I have turned the trigger shifter adjustment clockwise as far as it will go and it is still not aligned. Seems to be an issue in 3rd gear but the other gears seem solid. 3rd gear is useful when single track trail riding so I need to get this resolved. Suggestions welcome.

It only lines up in 2nd gear bro. Select 2nd gear get the 2 lines to line up then go through the gears and come back to 2nd and if they are still lined up or near enough just leave it. If they aren’t lined up line them up and repeat the run through the gears and check it when you get back to 2nd. If you can get it dead on go middle of the road. Its only a guide, it doesn’t have to be dead on.

 

[WhitzATL]

Isn’t it the 750 hub drive you ordered bro?

I got the HD750 and MD1000

 

[Terry777]

It only lines up in 2nd gear bro. Select 2nd gear get the 2 lines to line up then go through the gears and come back to 2nd and if they are still lined up or near enough just leave it. If they aren’t lined up line them up and repeat the run through the gears and check it when you get back to 2nd. If you can get it dead on go middle of the road. Its only a guide, it doesn’t have to be dead on.

You want the two yellows lined up or near enough when it’s in 2nd. gear

 

[Terry777]

I got the HD750 and MD1000

The md 1000 will have the sturmey archer. The hd 750 is different.

 

[RMK!]

You want the two yellows lined up or near enough when it’s in 2nd. gear

Thanks, the manual says 2nd gear is the indexing gear and you need to always go from 5th to 2nd gear before making an adjustment and then back to 5th back to second to see if the yellow line alignment has improved. If not do over again.

What I'm trying to say is that I have done this several times and I have the adjustment knob as far as it will go turning it in a clockwise direction. Turning it counter clockwise increases the yellow line gap. They are close with maybe a 1.57mm gap and the IGH is working. My concern is I am all out of adjustment as I have tightened as much as the adjustment knob allows.

 

[RMK!]

I got the HD750 and MD1000

The C50 is the trigger that comes on the MD 1000 bike.

 

[GEF]

Is it? I don't have my bike yet! lol

If it's any consolation, after getting a flat every other outing, I'm not riding mine either until I get my inserrts (which are backordered).