Use Stan's NoTube Sealant injected into the tubes. It is the best sealant on the market. Stan's recommends 2 ounces per wheel. I have been using Stan's for over 10 years and have learned that 4-6 ounces extends the life of the performance to over 9 months.
Okay more questions:
1. Should the inner tube be fully inflated, partially inflated, or not inflated at all prior to installing the solution?
2. Do you need to do the bouncing tire routine as they show in their tubeless installation videos after the Stan's is injected and the valve core is replaced?
3. Anything else to do to complete the process?
The problem with a slimed or juiced tire or tube is in the maintenance or repair. Checking the pressure or adding to it can foul the valve, pressure gauge and pump. Only makes sense given the stuff is meant to plug air holes.
1. The valve core has to be removed to pour the juice in so that would mean no air in the tube.
2. no bouncing needed... that is to set the bead of a tubeless tire to the rim
3. No, just pour 2-6 ounces in and then air up and GO
Funny! My experience using Stan's is exactly opposite your experience. Stan's No Tube Sealant broke down, clumped and separated inside my tubes!DO NOT USE SLIME!.. any decent shop worth walking into should tell you this. Just as other folks in this thread have mentioned it clogs and it's performance fades very quickly. Use Stan's NoTube Sealant injected into the tubes. It is the best sealant on the market. Stan's recommends 2 ounces per wheel. I have been using Stan's for over 10 years and have learned that 4-6 ounces extends the life of the performance to over 9 months. So basically each spring you "recharge your system" by replacing the tubes and doing it again.
As far as additional protection you can use tire liners and thorn resistant tubes. I personally put all my faith into Stan's and do not effect my ride quality by adding liners and TR tubes that can stiffen the tires in an undesirable way.
Note. I have no experience with the Marathon tire but there is no way I am changing out the Big Bens for something else. I have never meet a tire that can preform at the levels this tire does. I can take 28 mph, 90 degree corners on a narrow 2 lane residential neighborhood with the bike leaned at angles lower than 45 degrees. THAT IS SOME SERIOUS GRIP is this genre of tire.
I estimate the quantity of Slime using the graduation marks on the bottle in the recommended amount.John, do you use the recommended amount of slime, more, less? And do you have any problems with wobble at speed?
I've used Michelin's on non-e-bikes, very high quality tires!
Went 1000 miles on a ST1 and no flats, then got 2 flats in less than 100 miles, both on the rear tire. Put together a kit and practiced removal of the rear tire so hopefully now I can address on the road.
Along with the nuts and 2 locking washers on each side, on the brake side of the rear wheel there is a spacing washer that covers the rear hub wires. On the drive train side, there is a short sleeve that inserts over the bold and into cassette. Both the spacing washer and sleeve can easily fall off the wheel so be sure not to loose those.View attachment 3250
- 19mm wrench to remove rear tire
- tire levers (optional)
- 5mm hex for removal front tire (maybe 6mm)
- Knife to remove 2 zip ties that secure rear wheel hub wires
- spare tube and/or patch kit
- air source
- zip ties to secure rear wheel hub wires to frame (believe me, you don't want those ripping out while riding or changing wheel)
- phillips head screwdriver. If you plan to turn the bike upside down to change the rear wheel, you may want to loosen ST1 display to swing it out of the way so it does not get all scratched up.
Oh, I found the puncture to be on the INSIDE of the tube. I searched the rim for spokes/sharp edges and could not find any.
Wow! That's a serious road-side repair kit. Takes some determination (and a bit of mechanical skill) to tackle a rear-tire flat on that bike!
I'm all thumbs, couldn't do it!
Stromer tires and tubes are excellent. Doubt your local shop will have the same quality. Order a set on line so u have them readyAs I ponder my purchase of an ST1 or ST2, can you share your opinion/feedback on how often I can expect to get a flat tire, and if I will be able to repair it myself if it happens with me miles away from home?
By the way, the local bike shop (Bike Attack) told me that they can provide special tire treatments at the time of purchase, which would all but ensure me not getting a flat tire... Is this correct? Is this something standard, and/or a tire treatment I might receive from other bike shops?