Charging question - don't overcharge?

What are you talking about?!?!
I'm sorry if it hurts your brain but a 48v battery is very easy to chart SOC.
I've wasted 10x more time arguing with morons on here in just one day šŸ¤£


I did this once 2 years ago in all of a minute and keep it on my phone. That said I rarely need to change my setting as my ridding time is pretty static.

40% =. 42.5V
45%. =. 43.5V
50%. = 44.5V
55% = 45.5V
60% = 46.5V
65% = 47.5V
68%. = 48V
70%. = 48.5V
75% = 49.5V
80%. = 50.5V
85%. = 51.5V
90% = 52.5V
95%. =. 53.5V
100% = 54.6v
except my battery has no way to read the voltage. plus no ay to monitor the voltage anyway. same with the speicalized.
 
except my battery has no way to read the voltage. plus no ay to monitor the voltage anyway. same with the speicalized.
That's not necessary, it's all done with the charger setup. I'm thinking that you're not understanding how it's implemented.
Don't sweat it, it's not for everyone. Like you said earlier, just ride and enjoy
 
That's not necessary, it's all done with the charger setup. I'm thinking that you're not understanding how it's implemented.
Don't sweat it, it's not for everyone. Like you said earlier, just ride and enjoy
I understand how its done but I found buying a great setup and riding every day eliminated trying to make the battery last a little longer. its just not worth the hassle and worry.
 
There's no such thing as an over charged battery. My batteries will charged 100% and will not accept any more even if plug in 24 hours.
Unless something goes wrong. Thats the flaw in that argument. Unfortunately failures aren't unheard of and the consequences of trusting the equipment can be catastrophic.

I have had two separate occasions where a failure has happened. That second time was what got me to get into the adjustable chargers with the huge reliability ratings. When you see a battery that is at 100% at 58.8v, is set to stop at 55.4v (80%) and holycrap its at 59.5v and the charger is still going (subsequent tests with the seller confirmed the charger would no longer perform its CV - constant current - mode which is what gets chargers to taper down and stop at a certain voltage)... Thats a wakeup call to stop being complacent.

This is especially true because for me a bike is not an occasional recreational vehicle. When commuting I charge twice daily; once at home and once at work. So pack and charger both have a pretty severe duty cycle - Thats why 800 cycles on a battery pack isn't all that much in real world terms. But managing the process I still have my very first 17.5ah battery from 2015, going strong.

It is SUPER easy to get yourself a watt meter and calculate the volts per hour your pack gains from your charger. From there you can easily tell how many hours you leave the pack plugged into the charger for. And that is what you set your mechanical countdown timer to. The insurance policy that costs you a whole $9.99. If there is a failure in some link in your chain, the timer physically cuts power off before your house burns down.
 
It is SUPER easy to get yourself a watt meter and calculate the volts per hour your pack gains from your charger. From there you can easily tell how many hours you leave the pack plugged into the charger for. And that is what you set your mechanical countdown timer to. The insurance policy that costs you a whole $9.99. If there is a failure in some link in your chain, the timer physically cuts power off before your house burns down.
this is why all e biker batteries and changers should be UL rated.
 
I understand how its done but I found buying a great setup and riding every day eliminated trying to make the battery last a little longer. its just not worth the hassle and worry.
Obviously you don't or you wouldn't have responded as you did.
And my battery has Sanyo 18650GA cells... Some of the best ones out there, especially for smaller battery packs.
And why do you and others keep insisting that we're worried or this is some kind of hassle. I charge just as easily as you do. I loss nothing.
But if this makes you feel better now... That's just dandy with me šŸ¤—
 
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this is why all e biker batteries and changers should be UL rated.

The free market and free trade are not going to go away anytime soon. Labels are a crutch that takes the place of product knowledge and due diligence. But I do understand that many cannot be bothered and so, for those people they can pay a premium and get something with a label that tells them someone else thinks its ok.
 
The free market and free trade are not going to go away anytime soon. Labels are a crutch that takes the place of product knowledge and due diligence. But I do understand that many cannot be bothered and so, for those people they can pay a premium and get something with a label that tells them someone else thinks its ok.
or that the devices wont malfunction and burn down your house.
 
or that the devices wont malfunction and burn down your house.
A UL label is a real and substantial qualification of quality. But just because something doesn't have a UL label doesn't necessarily mean it is of poor quality or dangerous. Many imported products don't carry them... and that includes items from places like the EU and Australia.
 
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A UL label is a real and substantial qualification of quality. But just because something doesn't have a UL label doesn't necessarily mean it is of poor quality or dangerous. Many imported products don't carry them... and that includes items from places like the EU and Australia.
With your knowledge base.. Stick to items with a label šŸ‘
tboth those countries have their own version. yes something can be ok without the label but there is more of a chance of poor manufacturing involved.
 
except my battery has no way to read the voltage. plus no ay to monitor the voltage anyway. same with the speicalized.
How sad all that money for a dumb downed system that meeds an lbs to sort. FFS LIVE AND LET LIVE.
 
Nobody needs anything extra if the e-bike gives you accurate battery charge percentage in the display or app.
All these multimetres are "a poor man's lifebuoy". No-one sane would connect Satiator to a $1000 battery. I do not think Grin would pay any damages.
 
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Nobody needs anything extra if the e-bike gives you accurate battery charge percentage in the display or app.
All these multimetres are "a poor man's lifebuoy". No-one sane would connect Satiator to a $1000 battery. I do not think Grin would pay any damages.
I don't know about you guys, but my display shows the percentage as it's charging. So if you want to charge to 80%, why not just watch the display? (I charge to 100% each time, but it's cause I'm too busy at work to monitor it.)
 
I don't know about you guys, but my display shows the percentage as it's charging. So if you want to charge to 80%, why not just watch the display? (I charge to 100% each time, but it's cause I'm too busy at work to monitor it.)
My display would show percentage of o charged on the bike and then turned it on to look.
 
I don't know about you guys, but my display shows the percentage as it's charging. So if you want to charge to 80%, why not just watch the display? (I charge to 100% each time, but it's cause I'm too busy at work to monitor it.)
That is correct for Vado (when the battery is being charged on the bike) and for Vado SL if you do not switch the system off. While it works for Specialized e-bikes, many other brands will not let you monitor the battery % while charging.

Good to hear it works for foofer and his Bosch e-bikes, too.
 
tboth those countries have their own version. yes something can be ok without the label but there is more of a chance of poor manufacturing involved.
Version but they don't adhere to the same standards... and I've seen some real piece of s*it light fixtures and electrical products with a UL label... So it's a good thing but no guarantee and you do see appliances and such with a recall history.
On one project we were installing these beautiful imported hand made pendant lights with hand-blown Murano glass. They were exquisite and very well made with top quality materials but had to be removed for lack of a UL or any other label. Understandable but just an example of all things are not absolute.
Nobody needs anything extra if the e-bike gives you accurate battery charge percentage in the display or app.
All these multimetres are "a poor man's lifebuoy". No-one sane would connect Satiator to a $1000 battery. I do not think Grin would pay any damages.
My display does the same... But that means that I would have to monitor the charge literally. Satiator and devices such as mine do it automatically with added safety and convenience.
 
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Satiator and devices such as mine do it automatically with added safety and convenience.

I'd like see you trying to charge the Specialized SL main battery and the SL Range Extender at the same time with the Satiator :D
 
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Gentlemen,
I've just read the entire thread and I'm surprised at how excited/ angry people are w/r/t to charging regimens.
Bottom line is we're all here because we love riding our bikes and naturally want to be enjoy them to the fullest extent.
Batteries are expensive so why not use the available scientific knowledge to extend their usefulness? Stromer 983Wh battery is close to 2000$ !!!!
A couple of steps ( satiator, percentage monitoring, voltmeter etc) can very easily mitigate deterioration. Possibly extend 2 or 3 fold the battery life AND save you hundreds or thousands of dollars and be good for the environment ( less waste). And in no way strip you of any enjoyment of your favorite gizmo.
One has to weigh the pro and cons ( in $'s , environment) versus the very mild inconveniences of charging hygiene. I like to ride, use my bike to the fullest capabilities and protect my investment.
These are NOT mutually exclusive things
My Stromer displays percentage while charging. When I got it I looked at the time it took to add 1% while charging. 2,58 minutes . If I am at 54% after a ride and want to charge to 80%, I use my phone calculator. 80-54=26. 26X 2,58= 67 minutes. Works everytime to +- 1%. VoilĆ ! Easy!
Didn't cost me anything in termes of fancy additional gear/ charger/ voltmeter.
Obviously I am lucky that the percentage is visible on the bike and am aware this might not work for many people who would then have to rely on other methods stated above
If I want to go for a long ride , do as others have said and top it off just before leaving.
 
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I plug my bikes in until the light turns green. Then I ride it. Come back home and plug it in again. The only time I dont max charge is when I know I am not going to ride for a few days. They I leave it less than max. It has worked now for a few years. My batteries all seem like they have plenty of life. (now of course, I will probably start seeing huge dips!)
Life is too short to babysit batteries. I do the same thing with my Ecar...
 
As someone said before, our batteries might easily outlive many of us.

There are people who spend their spare time sitting in the garage and maintaining the batteries.
There are other people who ride their e-bikes and need any Wh available in their batteries to be able to complete the ride. The latter are called cyclists.

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My ride of today. For me, batteries are tools necessary to achieve the goal not the object of some religious cult.
 
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