Chain ring tooth selection

bellandbottle said:
@E-Wheels Here a couple of shots, and you can see just how tight everything is in there. Sorry the second one is a bit dark because of the sunlight, but you can see my US Postal water bottle - that will tell you who my hero used to be, but that is another story :).
Click to expand...
Looks to me like there will be more than enough clearance to do the job, as chainrings are about 3mm thick
There’s a quick way to find out if you have the correct size Allen key.....are you feeling lucky?

I don’t wish to talk you into doing something that you may not be comfortable with, but on the flip side I would hate to see you spend money on tools that you don’t necessarily need

I have a Shimano E8000 motor with similar clearances and have no trouble changing chainrings
 
The problem is that the one that is on there is not just a chainring, it has a guard on it too.

I am going to order up the new ring with bolts, and the extra (to me) couple of tools recommended by TS25, as they are not that expensive - then I can post back on how things have gone :cool:.
 
E-Wheels said:
I don’t own a Vado, but in my experience you don’t have to remove the spider arm assembly to change a chainring
Click to expand...
And here is a picture of my Deckas 40T with the Specialized chain guard mounted (I drilled 4 holes into the Deckas to do so).
The 4 bolts are Deckas specific. The chainguard is mounted from the back. There is practically no space between motor and chainring.
I can't remove the chainring the way your video showed.

E-Wheels said:
I would hate to see you spend money on tools that you don’t necessarily need
Click to expand...

The chain wip is useful for other issues too, i.e. cassette or cogs exchange.
And you could make your own to save costs ;)
 

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This is a Specialized 48 tooth chainring with the chain guard. Obviously larger chain guard for the 48 tooth chainring.
And you may need more links on your chain if you go from 40 to 48. I think my LBS ( spec. concept store) removed a couple of links when exchanging my 48 for a 40.
593ED5E4-1BD2-4276-8623-D350F9C75129.jpeg AFB898AF-38C9-4F66-B8EF-B7012669A069.jpeg

The screws for the chain guard are on the inside. Phillips screws on chain guard and Allen key for the chainring. Think it’s 5mm, same size as for the through axle. Threads in chainring.
I would say the same as @E-Wheels , don’t buy special tools unless you want them anyway. Check with the Specialized concept Store.
Crappy photo of 48 tooth chainring just hanging on crank.
EB7CED5D-E99D-4680-9B18-FBEBBC8C113B.jpeg
 
TS25 said:
And here is a picture of my Deckas 40T with the Specialized chain guard mounted (I drilled 4 holes into the Deckas to do so).
The 4 bolts are Deckas specific. The chainguard is mounted from the back. There is practically no space between motor and chainring.
I can't remove the chainring the way your video showed.
And you could make your own to save costs
Click to expand...
Hi TS25,
Sorry, I’m not meaning to be argumentative, but I don’t understand the problem
From what I can see from the photos posted, the chainguard doesnt need to be removed to take the chainring off the spider
Once the chainring (incl chainguard) if off you can get access to the chainguard screws
The only minor problem I can see if the OP buys an aftermarket chainring as suggested, is that it may not be possible to attached the original Vado chainguard as the new chainring won’t have the holes drilled for it to attach
It is easy enough to drill 4x holes in the new chainring

I like the home made chain whip
 
PaD said:
This is a Specialized 48 tooth chainring with the chain guard. Obviously larger chain guard for the 48 tooth chainring.
And you may need more links on your chain if you go from 40 to 48. I think my LBS ( spec. concept store) removed a couple of links when exchanging my 48 for a 40.
View attachment 50493 View attachment 50494

The screws for the chain guard are on the inside. Phillips screws on chain guard and Allen key for the chainring. Think it’s 5mm, same size as for the through axle. Threads in chainring.
I would say the same as @E-Wheels , don’t buy special tools unless you want them anyway. Check with the Specialized concept Store.
Crappy photo of 48 tooth chainring just hanging on crank.
View attachment 50495
Click to expand...
This
 
E-Wheels said:
Hi TS25,
Sorry, I’m not meaning to be argumentative, but I don’t understand the problem
From what I can see from the photos posted, the chainguard doesnt need to be removed to take the chainring off the spider
Once the chainring (incl chainguard) if off you can get access to the chainguard screws
The only minor problem I can see if the OP buys an aftermarket chainring as suggested, is that it may not be possible to attached the original Vado chainguard as the new chainring won’t have the holes drilled for it to attach
It is easy enough to drill 4x holes in the new chainring
Click to expand...

@PaD
Could you please take a 5 allen and try to remove your Specialized chainring to test it?

@E-Wheels
Any hints leading to an easier way are welcome.

----------------------
Let me focus on the differences between Specialized and Deckas chainring. Both are at least 4mm wide (not 3mm as @E-Wheels said) and you have to add the chainguard to that.

The Deckas chainring is mounted with the 2-part-bolts as @E-Wheels has shown, i.e. there is a part to be held from the back whilst you are screwing it in from the front. The bolts for the Specialized chainring are different, you screw them from the frontside only, no backside part to be held. This is because the Specialized chainguardring has threads itself as the Deckas has not.

The Deckas is available in any size from 40T to 52T for the Vado and in the colors red and black. Specialized options are 40T or 48T in black, that's all.

You can fit chainguard 40T or 48T for the Specialized as is. You need to drill 4 holes in the Deckas chainring to fit the Specialized chainguards. Sizes 42T to 46T could not match the Specialized chainguards exactly.

The Deckas chainring is IMHO of the same quality as the Specialized at 1/3 - 1/2 cost. Enough bucks saved to invest into tools like a chain whip which you could need/use for a cassette or cog replacement. The Specialized chainring is "after-market" as well and carried various brand marks according to other user reports. These users reported that the Specialized chainring had to be replaced after 2000 miles only but I do not know their riding style. Possibly bad shifting practice.
 
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Just to let you all know where I am up to on this sunny morning :) .

I have ordered a Deckas 44T chainring, as I think that will move me up the cassette so that I am comfortable - I have ordered up a new chain to handle the larger ring.

I have also ordered up the two crank tools specific to the Brose motor - it will be good to have those in my box anyway. I do have a whip from past bike rebuilding activities.

The only fly in the ointment is that the Deckas supplier came through this morning, to say there will be a delay of 10 days because of the situation at present.

We will see.....
 
E-Wheels said:
Oh really....why do they sell them?

Specialized Vado Chainring - 104mm - S171400001/S171400002

Specialized Equipment ▶ Specialized Vado Chainring - 104mm BCD.Available with 40 and 48 teeth. For 10,11 speed. S171400001 (40 teeth), S171400002 (48 teeth)
www.bike24.com www.bike24.com
www.ebay.com.au

Bicycle Chainrings & BMX Sprockets for sale | Shop with Afterpay | eBay AU

Get the best deals on Bicycle Chainrings & BMX Sprockets. Shop with Afterpay on eligible items. Free delivery and returns on eBay Plus items for Plus members. Shop today!
www.ebay.com.au
Do it yourself, it’s easy enough
All you need is a 5 or 6 mm Allen key
I’m sure YouTube can give you some guidance if you need help
Click to expand...
I have a Turbo Vado 3.0 . The best upgrade (for me) was to have my LBS change out my 40 tooth sprocket for a 48 tooth sprocket. It only cost me about $20. Bike mechanic labor charges are generally very reasonable for their customers.
 
manrubia said:
The best upgrade (for me) was to have my LBS change out my 40 tooth sprocket for a 48 tooth sprocket. It only cost me about $20. Bike mechanic labor charges are generally very reasonable for their customers.
Click to expand...

I don't buy that.
Specialized 40T chain ring is 50€ and 48T is 60€ here.
So 20$ is for the labour only? How much for the chainring?
 
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I am discovering that the Shimano HG601 11 speed chain with 126 links is in short (to non-existent) supply. What is the recommended alternative?

There are plenty of 116 links about, so I suppose I could graft on a few from the old chain if needs be :rolleyes:.

PS. I have just found a KMC chain with 122 links which, if I add a speedlink will take me close to where I want to be.
 
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bellandbottle said:
I am discovering that the Shimano HG601 11 speed chain with 126 links is in short (to non-existent) supply. What is the recommended alternative?

There are plenty of 116 links about, so I suppose I could graft on a few from the old chain if needs be :rolleyes:.

PS. I have just found a KMC chain with 122 links which, if I add a speedlink will take me close to where I want to be.
Click to expand...

The Shimano HG601-11 chain with 126 links is new on the market. You could take the HG601-11 with 138 links instead, look how many links are spare when mounting it to the bike, take the spare ones off and add as many to your "old" chain as and when needed. So you have a spare chain waiting "in flexible length", or you could add four extra links to your new chain in case you want to switch from 44T to a 48T chain ring later on.

Alternatively you could look for a Shimano HG701-11 chain which comes in 116, 126 and 138 link length as well. Slightly better quality at slightly higher costs.

The price gap between the 126 and the 138 length is so small that I would buy the 138 and have some spare links at hand.

I even have a few spare chain links and chain tool in my "emergency case" when riding the bike but some say that's overkill. But some routes I'm taking are miles off any place to be reached by car so it gives me more confidence to have it at hand. Better than carrying the bike for miles.
 
TS25 said:
The Shimano HG601-11 chain with 126 links is new on the market. You could take the HG601-11 with 138 links instead, look how many links are spare when mounting it to the bike, take the spare ones off and add as many to your "old" chain as and when needed. So you have a spare chain waiting "in flexible length", or you could add four extra links to your new chain in case you want to switch from 44T to a 48T chain ring later on.

Alternatively you could look for a Shimano HG701-11 chain which comes in 116, 126 and 138 link length as well. Slightly better quality at slightly higher costs.

The price gap between the 126 and the 138 length is so small that I would buy the 138 and have some spare links at hand.

I even have a few spare chain links and chain tool in my "emergency case" when riding the bike but some say that's overkill. But some routes I'm taking are miles off any place to be reached by car so it gives me more confidence to have it at hand. Better than carrying the bike for miles.
Click to expand...

Many thanks for that - much appreciated.

I have found the HG701-11 at 138L in several places :). As you say, to have a few links spare would be a good thing.
 
bellandbottle said:
Shaking the chain tree as I am at the moment, I have found this chain which is reckoned to be 50% sturdier than the HG701-11 and about the same price.

www.highonbikes.com

Shimano CN-E8000 - E-Bike 11 Speed Chain Quick Link - 138L

Buy Shimano CN-E8000 - E-Bike 11 Speed Chain Quick Link - 138L Fast and Free UK Delivery From HighonBikes
www.highonbikes.com www.highonbikes.com
Click to expand...

This is a chain

"designed for the added torque of the Shimano STEPS drive unit For single ring chainset use
5.62 mm chain width, optimised for 11-speed Super Narrow HG-EV drivetrains "

and I can't comment.

I use a HG601 paying half the price. If you test this special chain we shall know if it fits and was worth it - in app. 3-4000 miles :)
 
manrubia said:
The total cost for parts and labor was $117
Click to expand...

That is roughly what it will cost me, turning $ into £ with the tax here, only I will be substituting the two Brose tools for the labour charge.

This is all a steep learning curve for me, with the crunch time ahead :).
 
TS25 said:
This is a chain

"designed for the added torque of the Shimano STEPS drive unit For single ring chainset use
5.62 mm chain width, optimised for 11-speed Super Narrow HG-EV drivetrains "

and I can't comment.

I use a HG601 paying half the price. If you test this special chain we shall know if it fits and was worth it - in app. 3-4000 miles :)
Click to expand...

The problem I have here is that most of the 138L suppliers (even Amazon) are in Germany, so that postal charge bumps up the cost of an HG701, remembering that I cannot source an HG601 which is not 116L.

Luckily (maybe) I've managed to find an open box CN-E8000 chain on Amazon this morning, so we will give it a go when the ring arrives.

I think the Brose tools are arriving today.
 
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