Chain ring tooth selection

My Vado 4.0 has the Shimano CS-M7000-11 cassette i.e. 11-speed 11-42 (11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-37-42) and 47-622 tyres.

And it doesn't require quite a spinning in the cogs 17-15-13 to get up to 27-28 km/h. I do not use the cog 11 often, even with the 40T chainring. So my concern is that even 46T is too much. That's another reason why I haven't changed to the 46T yet.

Riding in the flat area (I think this is yours) you might do alright with more than 44T even on a Vado 4.0. Things change when you get into hilly landscape, during a holiday elsewhere possibly.

So I'm coming from a practical point of view but your calculation sheets add something to consider as well.
 
Does anyone know of a write-up or video of crank arm and spider removal on a Vado? Or can I change the chainring without doing that work?
 
Last edited:
Does anyone know of a write-up or video of crank arm and spider removal on a Vado?
Or can I change the chainring without doing that work?

No, you can't do without it, and you'll need some special tools.

See picture.
An 8-spline lockring tool, the Shimano TL-FC15 or a Brose spline cover, a chain whip for 11-chain, and some normal tools (f.e. 8 Inbus, 2-arm-puller).
It's easy then. ;-)
 

Attachments

  • Tools Vado chainring.jpg
    Tools Vado chainring.jpg
    504.8 KB · Views: 402
No, you can't do without it, and you'll need some special tools.

See picture.
An 8-spline lockring tool, the Shimano TL-FC15 or a Brose spline cover, a chain whip for 11-chain, and some normal tools (f.e. 8 Inbus, 2-arm-puller).
It's easy then. ;-)

Wow! That is quite a bit more than I anticipated :cool:.

I've always done all the maintenance on my mechanicals, but I think a phone call/email to my LBS might be in order in this case.

I really appreciate the "heads up".
 
I am slowly changing various components on my Vado 4 to suit my personal situation - having changed the tyres, the grips and the seatpost so far.

I have noticed that I am only using the smallest 3 cogs on the cassette, and I would rather be operating a couple of cogs up from that - the chainring I have is 40T.

In addition, if I want to increase the size of the chainring with Shimano components it is really quite expensive.

I am quite a keen cyclist who has recently moved over to an ebike, and I ride 99% of the time on Eco because I am looking for the exercise in our local area, which is quite short of hills. I plan to increase my normal ride to 30 miles soon, but will need to do some map work.

I am limited to 15.5 mph by legislation, if that is a factor.

I would appreciate any inputs.
To each their own.
I bought a 15.5mph/25kph Vado 5 in Sweden in April 2019. It was sold with a 48 tooth crankwheel. I ordered a 40 tooth as I had that on my Vado 4 in 2018.
For me the 40 tooth crank wheel is perfect on an e-bike limited to 15.5mph ( mine does 28-29kph as I have adjusted the wheel circumference).
I am surprised to hear you’re only using top 3 gears. To me that sounds like a cadence around 60 if you’re not going faster than 15.5mph.
I like a cadence between 80-95 but of course I”m not always pedalling like that. I very very seldom use highest (11 tooth) gear. Almost always in Eco mode.
 
To each their own.
I bought a 15.5mph/25kph Vado 5 in Sweden in April 2019. It was sold with a 48 tooth crankwheel. I ordered a 40 tooth as I had that on my Vado 4 in 2018.
For me the 40 tooth crank wheel is perfect on an e-bike limited to 15.5mph ( mine does 28-29kph as I have adjusted the wheel circumference).
I am surprised to hear you’re only using top 3 gears. To me that sounds like a cadence around 60 if you’re not going faster than 15.5mph.
I like a cadence between 80-95 but of course I”m not always pedalling like that. I very very seldom use highest (11 tooth) gear. Almost always in Eco mode.

As you say, it depends on the individual. On the flat I am normally doing something over 18mph in Eco mode, dropping back to 15.5mph(ish) on an incline. I have the assistance set for 35% on Eco, but the whole setup is clearly different to my mechanical, where I was often using 39/15 on similar routes.

I will need to give the whole thing some thought.

The latest Vado 5 here has a 40T chainring.
 
For all those who have kindly contributed to this thread, I have an update from yesterday.

I contacted my LBS, who have been very helpful so far, to be told that an increase in chainring size cannot be done - I asked the question a second time, and the word came back from the mechanic "can't be done".

I have now reached out to Specialized to see what their take on this is, and have found that there is a Specialized Concept Store only 20 miles away.

I don't know if my LBS mechanic was just having a bad day, but I will push for a resolution over the next couple of days.

We will see....... :).
 
I contacted my LBS, who have been very helpful so far, to be told that an increase in chainring size cannot be done - I asked the question a second time, and the word came back from the mechanic "can't be done".
Oh really....why do they sell them?
Do it yourself, it’s easy enough
All you need is a 5 or 6 mm Allen key
I’m sure YouTube can give you some guidance if you need help
 
Last edited:
Oh really....why do they sell them?
Do it yourself, it’s easy enough
All you need is a 5 or 6 mm Allen key
I’m sure YouTube can give you some guidance if you need help

I've looked all over YouTube, but no help.

TS25 says I need to take off the crank and spider to do the job, and that is why I am a bit reluctant to do it myself.
 
... my LBS, who have been very helpful so far, to be told that an increase in chainring size cannot be done - I asked the question a second time, and the word came back from the mechanic "can't be done".

I don't know if my LBS mechanic was just having a bad day, ...

Or did he wear a mouthguard mask and his hard to understand words were: "I can't do it? " :cool:


Oh really....why do they sell them?
They sell the Specialized 48T for the Vado 5.0 and 6.0 models but it fits the Vado 3.0 and 4.0 as well.
Somebody in Florida had a Deckas 52T mounted by his LBS!

Do it yourself, it’s easy enough
All you need is a 5 or 6 mm Allen key
No it's not.
Please watch this Video
, 1:13 - 2:35 and you can do it then. With the special tools I mentioned and showed in #25.
 
Last edited:
I've put some more information and link in my post so you could do it now by yourself. ☝
Yes, you could!

@TS25 many thanks for that - very clear. I actually watched some of that video before, but was concentrating on the firmware updates, so the crank and spider removal process did not register - you have been a great help.

I will wait till Specialized have responded, but I feel a lot more confident now that I have watched the clip :).
 
Last edited:
No it's not.
Please watch this Video
Hi TS25,
With all due respect, I disagree
The video you linked shows the tools referenced in your post #25 being used to remove the complete spider arm assembly (with the chainring still attached)
I don’t own a Vado, but in my experience you don’t have to remove the spider arm assembly to change a chainring
The chainring is normally fastened to the spider by 1x chainring bolt on each of the spider arms at 104 mm bolt circle
I have attached a photo of the chainring bolts you undo with an allen key to remove it from the spider, and a video link on how to do it
As far as I can see from the video you posted, the Vado appears to use the same standard fastening system

 

Attachments

  • 59F7ED98-F4CB-408A-8067-4C9246A86E22.png
    59F7ED98-F4CB-408A-8067-4C9246A86E22.png
    973.2 KB · Views: 351
Last edited:
@E-Wheels Having just looked at my Vado, it is clear that we cannot get to both sides of the bolts - see attached photos.
 

Attachments

  • Vado Chainring.jpg
    Vado Chainring.jpg
    205.1 KB · Views: 391
I have just heard from Specialized Customer Support, and they say I am welcome to use an aftermarket chainring up to 48T.

Really good news, and I will now do it myself - probably with a 44T, to move up the cassette a bit, but I will think about that whilst ordering up the key couple of tools.
 
@E-Wheels Having just looked at my Vado, it is clear that we cannot get to both sides of the bolts - see attached photos.
You shouldn’t need to get to both sides, as the chainring bolts are removed from the outside
Are you able to post a couple photos from each side and from the bottom of the motor to show how much clearance you have to allow the chainring to drop off the spider
 
@E-Wheels Here a couple of shots, and you can see just how tight everything is in there. Sorry the second one is a bit dark because of the sunlight, but you can see my US Postal water bottle - that will tell you who my hero used to be, but that is another story :).
 

Attachments

  • Vado Chainring 2.jpg
    Vado Chainring 2.jpg
    230.6 KB · Views: 391
  • Vado Chainring 3.jpg
    Vado Chainring 3.jpg
    104.7 KB · Views: 394
Back