CCS Owners - What's your current mileage and which items have you had to replace?

[Captain Slow]

I'm just a tad under 1,700 km's or slightly above 1,000 miles. I will probably replace the chain at around 3,000 to 4,000 km's, and it occurred to me that it might not be easy to replace the front chainring. I'm not familiar with Prowheel and I don't know if Shimano or FSA have a chain ring that bolts in. When I check the JB website it appears they sell the crank with chainring attached, but they don't see the chainring by itself.

I'm wondering has anyone ridden so much that they've had to replace this part yet? I suppose since there's only one chain ring up front that maybe using a worn chain ring isn't as big a problem because you're not shifting the front derailleur. But I have to think using a worn chain ring affects the chain and cassette.

Anyhow getting back to the original question. How many miles have you ridden on your CCS and what have you replaced and at what mileage did you replace said item>

 

[JoePah]

 

[LS3Miata]

Just over 600 miles for me and I’ll probably replace the chain after the riding season. Had my first chain drop this week after hitt a bump on the path.

 

[Asher]

I'm at 600 miles. Have not had to change anything except to upgrade. I expect I'll have to change the chain at 2-3k miles.

Why would you replace the chainring after one chain change? Cassettes last for 3-4 chains, and the front chain ring even longer than that.

 

[Captain Slow]

Why would you replace the chainring after one chain change? Cassettes last for 3-4 chains, and the front chain ring even longer than that.

Not planning on replacing it when I change my chain, but just want to know how to replace it when the time comes. But I can understand why you'd think I was.

 

[youth]

This is my original 2016 Cross Current with 14,000 miles.

This is the first release of the Cross Current. It lacks proper rear rack mounts, doesn't have an LCD display, & has a "350w" motor.
Things that I've had to replace due to wear.

Rock Show Paragon Gold RL air fork after stock one was neglected & lost performance develop/ rust. The rock shox actually has some rust on the inside too because I neglected to do the 50 hour maintenance. Just seemed much to take the fork apart & replace oil after every 5 weeks. But seeing the damage now I guess I will be more on top of it.

Crank Brothers Double Shot 3 clipless/platform combo pedals 3rd set pedals. First worned out from water intrusion, 2nd old set I had around would've likely lasted. 3rd is I wanted clipless.

KMC X9.93 Chain 3rd or 4th chain now.

Tektro Bike P20.11 Disc Brake Pads 4th replacement

Shimano 180mm SLX front rotor 3rd replacement. If you hear scrapping sound it time to replace because the pad has worn to expose a metal nub that rubs against the disc.

Tektro 180mm TR-11 rear rotor 2nd replacement

Many inner tubes replaced due to issues in the beginning.

Generic ebay left crankarm after I messed up the extracting thread & had to almost fully chop the arm off.

12.8aH 48v battery replacing stock 10.4 battery after capacity was too reduced for my 16 mile one way commute.

Shimano BB-UN55 68x127.5 square bottom bracket. The oem one felt dry but could probably still go on.

On 2nd refurb wheel after a warranty replacement at nearly at year into ownership.

After nearly two years the refurb wheel got rebuilt after 6000+ miles with new Velocity Made in USA rim & Phil Hub 13/14 single butted spokes. One spoke broke after over 300 miles, but has since held up after several hundred more.

The controller, LED display, & wiring harnesses have also been replaced. I think the issue was mainly with water intrusion into the harness. I have dielectric grease in them now.

As of this past week a bad chain jump locked my rear derailleur & tacoed the cage. Fortunately I had another shadow derailleur that I could swap from my pushbike.

Next on the list when I need a new chain again will likely be a new cassette (maybe freehub body too if it can be replaced) & front chainring.

 

[Asher]

Thanks for the report, youth. Was that the rear wheel needing replacement?

 

[youth]

Thanks for the report, youth. Was that the rear wheel needing replacement?

The original wheel even with breaking spoke lasted about a year before I suspect something happened with the gears inside like perhaps they wore out or stripped. They sented a refurb wheel which had it's own issues like disc bolt holes not deep enough (been running 5 screws instead of 6 on the disc). This one was better in terms of spoke breakage, but eventually after close to a year the spoke holes in the rim were starting to crack. I manage to ride it to the point where you could pull the poke out by hand while waiting for the shop to get the rebuild parts. I just really hope that the motor on this wheel lasts now after dropping $250 on the whole rebuild.

 

[JoePah]

That must be some rough roads! Have you thought about upgrading your rim and spokes for harsh service? Alex makes some hd rims and maybe 12 gage spokes

Park makes a chain stretch tool. At your rate you should be checking every coup,e of months and replacing chains every 6. It will save your drivetrain.

 

[youth]

That must be some rough roads! Have you thought about upgrading your rim and spokes for harsh service? Alex makes some hd rims and maybe 12 gage spokes

Park makes a chain stretch tool. At your rate you should be checking every coup,e of months and replacing chains every 6. It will save your drivetrain.

If you're talking about me.

I often think broken concrete /asphalt is rougher on a bike then dirt. But the shop that did the rebuild used phil wood 13/14g single butted spokes. I requested smaller spoke because I think part of the problem with the stock wheels were the higher tension needed with 12g spokes). And paired with Velocity Cliffhanger rims ((Link Removed - No Longer Exists)) which are tandem rated.

Already have a a chain stretch check tool. 4th chain after two years 14k miles isn't bad. If this was a mid drive it would probably be 12th chain by now.