Cannondale Topstone Gravel Ebike

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Yeah, keys! You won't make that mistake again. You already have a second battery for your Neo? How do you carry it while riding?
I use a Revelate Designs Ranger frame bag size medium to carry a second battery. I got the frame bag from REI. I got the battery from Bikeman, as they had best price. I ordered two King Cage lowering bottle cages to try and make use of the down tube bottle cage mounts.

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I personally hate the key latch on my Giant. I never leave my bike unattended and have no reason to lock the battery to the bike, and the mechanism is ludicrously large and heavy. I keep a key on a badge holder in the side pocket of my feed bag, but if Giant made a simple push button battery latch I’d buy it and ditch the key in a heartbeat.
 
Ebike lesson of the day:
If you are going to do a ride where you intend to swap batteries,
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don't forget your keys.

I did a 31 mile ride today. I went to swap batteries, and realized I forgot my keys. I then rode 16 miles without any assistance, as my battery was dead. I completed the remaining 15 miles via Lyft XL. That 15 miles without any assist was pretty tiring. There is no way I can ride this bike up even a modest incline without power.
Hi and good day everybody ☺
31 mile ( for us in EU equivalent to 50 km ) it seems to me showing a high battery drain even if used in Tour or Sport mode.
My regular tours are averaging 100/120 km( 65 mile) and ,leaving close by to the Alps ,always with a minimum elevation gain from 1000-1500 mt ,and the battery drain never exceed 70%.For time being , with about 5000 km in the wheels with the Lefty 3, only once I have been back home with the battery light ( on the Kiox screen) flashing but the ride was over 160 km longer and 1750 mt elevation gain with an average gradient of 9%.
As example enclosed the screen shot for last two rides both terminated with 30%and 40%battery charge.Surely a lot depends which kind of assistance is used during the ride ( for me Eco 90% and Tour 10%, never used Sport or Turbo),road condition,biker weight , weather ( front wind , rain...)...Also my experience is based on motor limited to 25km/h ( as per EU rules) and not idea about possible consumption for models you classified class 3...but honestly I do not see the reason for such high speed assistance ( over 28 km/h) as on flat I'm regularly riding without assistance at over 30km and on climb is more than enough the support available.
The battery key anyhow is always with me stored in the spare-tool cage for any possible reason
Enjoy the day ,
Blackvipergts
 

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Also my experience is based on motor limited to 25km/h ( as per EU rules) and not idea about possible consumption for models you classified class 3...but honestly I do not see the reason for such high speed assistance ( over 28 km/h) as on flat I'm regularly riding without assistance at over 30km and on climb is more than enough the support available.
You need to be aware that the power demand to overcome air drag is a cubic (x^3) function of speed. 25 km/h e-bikes allow far, far higher range than the 32 km/h and especially the 28 mph (45 km/h) ones. As I ride a EU S-Pedelec, I know that relationship very well. Rider's weight is critical with big elevation gain, and also all depends on the rider's leg power. Your achievements seem to be a combination of your (probably) light weight and strength. For instance, I'm unable to ride e-bike past the motor cut-off. You can.
 
You need to be aware that the power demand to overcome air drag is a cubic (x^3) function of speed. 25 km/h e-bikes allow far, far higher range than the 32 km/h and especially the 28 mph (45 km/h) ones. As I ride a EU S-Pedelec, I know that relationship very well. Rider's weight is critical with big elevation gain, and also all depends on the rider's leg power. Your achievements seem to be a combination of your (probably) light weight and strength. For instance, I'm unable to ride e-bike past the motor cut-off. You can.
Thank for your comment and be clear mine was simply a comment based on personal experience , not more than that.
I'm 67 y.o , 1,78cm tall ,floating in between 73-75 kg weight ,with an average power on road of 200 watt at 135 bpm . I have accumulated thousand of kilometers with muscular bike till serious health problem forced to switch to an assisted bike.Surely not the most serious issue in my life , but it has been quite hard to digest as I could not longer attend amateur's race like the Grandfondo quite popular down here.Today I make my mind and completely modified the approach not longer focused on the performance ( not any sense with an assisted bike) but simply to the journey and the company 👍Nevertheless something from the good past remain and I ask the motor to assistance only when the heart rate is entering in the so called < red-zone> , which for me now is around 145-150 bpm.So far on flat I can ride in between 28-32 km/h at 130 bpm , while on uphill with gradient over 6% Eco mode is a must.
Just as example ,last summer ,I rode to Colle delle Finestre (2180 mt ) ,20 km length at 9% gradient in ECO with an average for bpm at 135 , and 14km/h speed.
Regards
blackvipergts
 
Thank for your comment and be clear mine was simply a comment based on personal experience , not more than that.
I'm 67 y.o , 1,78cm tall ,floating in between 73-75 kg weight ,with an average power on road of 200 watt at 135 bpm . I have accumulated thousand of kilometers with muscular bike till serious health problem forced to switch to an assisted bike.Surely not the most serious issue in my life , but it has been quite hard to digest as I could not longer attend amateur's race like the Grandfondo quite popular down here.Today I make my mind and completely modified the approach not longer focused on the performance ( not any sense with an assisted bike) but simply to the journey and the company 👍Nevertheless something from the good past remain and I ask the motor to assistance only when the heart rate is entering in the so called < red-zone> , which for me now is around 145-150 bpm.So far on flat I can ride in between 28-32 km/h at 130 bpm , while on uphill with gradient over 6% Eco mode is a must.
Just as example ,last summer ,I rode to Colle delle Finestre (2180 mt ) ,20 km length at 9% gradient in ECO with an average for bpm at 135 , and 14km/h speed.
Regards
blackvipergts
So you input 200 W yourself and draw no power from the battery above 25 km/h at all :) Now, a person riding a 28 mph e-bike is being assisted with say, 100 W motor power, to just achieve your speed (assuming the person inputs 100 W at far lower cadence), and if a U.S. Topstone rider want to get at say 25 mph, the person needs far higher assistance (far more Watts!), which considerably shortens the range.
 
So you input 200 W yourself and draw no power from the battery above 25 km/h at all :) Now, a person riding a 28 mph e-bike is being assisted with say, 100 W motor power, to just achieve your speed (assuming the person inputs 100 W at far lower cadence), and if a U.S. Topstone rider want to get at say 25 mph, the person needs far higher assistance (far more Watts!), which considerably shortens the range.
Cristal clear 👌Considering my personal riding style I was thinking whether a bike with Ebikemotion could be more appropriate for my need as I carried more kilos useless.For this I'm waiting the Topstone Neo SL for a weight of 12.9 kgs vs 18 kgs Lefty 3 as I like very much the Topstone geometry and style .Unfortunately during these Covid's time everything has become difficult and bike shops with extremely low availability...
There could be a Supersix Neo 2 prompt but too much pure road oriented as now for me gravel represent at least 40%
Regards
blackvipergts
 
What about Creo SL?
Specialized Creo it's surely the Queen of the sector and personally I have been always a Specialized's fan being my past bikes SWorks ,Roubaix, Diverge....but now if I wonder to make a sustainable commercial swap ( my Lefty is 7month old,5000 km , in perfect condition) I'm more or less oblige to stay within Cannondale domain.Also true I like Topstone very much and the SL could be the well balanced compromise.As stated in previous post, down here the bikes market is absolutely boomed and not easy at all to make a deal even because the prompt delivery are close to zero.
Regards
 
I've found that replacing the stock tires with a more pavement friendly tread greatly decreased the rolling resistance and increased my average speed (on pavement) significantly.
I know I've traded off some trail riding traction for the faster pavement speeds, but since most of my riding is on pavement I'll really happy with my tire swap.
I found the stock tires to be very noisy and the handling on pavement to be, for lack of a better word, squishy.
 
I use a Revelate Designs Ranger frame bag size medium to carry a second battery. I got the frame bag from REI. I got the battery from Bikeman, as they had best price. I ordered two King Cage lowering bottle cages to try and make use of the down tube bottle cage mounts.
Cool, you don't let the dust settle for long, do you? I actually already had the medium Revelate bag and got some 4" helicopter tape to protect the top tube finish from chafe and abrasion. I bought as second battery cover from that outfit in Germany dr.cannonndale.de and it has arrived. My battery should be here in another day or two.

I am a bit puzzled as to how to attach the cover to the battery and imagine that the placement is crucial to have the battery making proper contact with the battery contact plate inside the top of the down tube. There does not seem to be any info on line about the process. Have you figured how to remove the cover and attach it to the second battery? If so, it would be most helpful if you can describe exactly how they are assembled into a unit.
 
Cool, you don't let the dust settle for long, do you? I actually already had the medium Revelate bag and got some 4" helicopter tape to protect the top tube finish from chafe and abrasion. I bought as second battery cover from that outfit in Germany dr.cannonndale.de and it has arrived. My battery should be here in another day or two.

I am a bit puzzled as to how to attach the cover to the battery and imagine that the placement is crucial to have the battery making proper contact with the battery contact plate inside the top of the down tube. There does not seem to be any info on line about the process. Have you figured how to remove the cover and attach it to the second battery? If so, it would be most helpful if you can describe exactly how they are assembled into a unit.

The battery cover slides on and off. There is a small metal piece that you can't fully secure without the nuts one would normally use to affix a bottle cage. It will just kind of rattle around in there without those nuts. When you eventually get the battery cover on, keep the nuts which are included slightly loose. That way you have some play to be able to slide the cover back and forth in order to get a proper fit when installed on the bike. Once you have the battery with cover inserted and secured into the frame, you can tighten the nuts down.

The best way to figure out how to put the second battery cover on the second battery, is to take the cover off the first battery. The cover slides up and off in the direction towards where the battery connects with the bike. Just unscrew the five nuts where the bottle cage is supposed to attach to the battery cover, then you can slide the battery cover off.

Cannondale battery cover removal video
 
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I do not see the reason for such high speed assistance ( over 28 km/h)
In order to get to the trails where I like to ride, I often have unavoidable stretches on roads where I am forced to take the lane, and hope the people behind me don't get frustrated and simply run me over. At most they might get a traffic ticket for killing me. I had one such three mile stretch yesterday. On this particular road there is no shoulder, and the speed limit is 35 mph. There are times when I need to go 28 mph. Even when in Turbo mode, I have to exert a considerable effort to maintain 28 mph. Once I got to the trail, I slowed down to about 15 mph, which happens to be the speed limit on said trail. I encountered a number of non-ebike cyclists doing 20-30 mph on said trail.

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I finally solved my music issue when cycling. I hate having to pull out my phone to change songs, or adjust volume. So, I used Voile straps to mount an Anker Soundcore 2 bluetooth speaker to my toptube. This way the sound is direct at me, and I can use the buttons on the speaker to change tracks, and adjust volume.
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The battery cover slides on and off. There is a small metal piece that you can't fully secure without the nuts one would normally use to affix a bottle cage. It will just kind of rattle around in there without those nuts. When you eventually get the battery cover on, keep the nuts which are included slightly loose. That way you have some play to be able to slide the cover back and forth in order to get a proper fit when installed on the bike. Once you have the battery with cover inserted and secured into the frame, you can tighten the nuts down.

The best way to figure out how to put the second battery cover on the second battery, is to take the cover off the first battery. The cover slides up and off in the direction towards where the battery connects with the bike. Just unscrew the five nuts where the bottle cage is supposed to attach to the battery cover, then you can slide the battery cover off.

Cannondale battery cover removal video
Thanks, My second battery arrived today and has the cover installed and fitted. Thanks much for your help.
 
Whoa. How did you manage that?

I might order a third battery, and it would be nice if it included the cover.
I bought the cover as a separate item from a Cannondale parts supplier in Germany. The come painted either green, black, gray or green depending on whether it is for a Topstone Neo 1,2 or 3. I got the battery from a domestic dealer.
The bag that holds it perfectly on my bike, which is an XL is the Revelate Tangle that comes in 4 sizes for different frames.
 
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