Calling all math majors

[spokewrench]

Ain't that somethin'! I'd buy one, but then I'd probably louse up wiring in the shunt (if that's what it's called).

My bike came with a percent indicator. On another bike, I mounted a rechargeable light with a percent indicator. I like them both.

A few days ago I bought a rechargeable bathroom mirror light. With maybe 200 lumens, it's not much of a mirror light. It has a night time motion detector, and those lumens are fine for using the sink or toilet or just walking through. If some night a power failure leaves me in the dark, all I have to do is come within range of the motion detector, and I can pull the light off the magnet to find a flashlight.

I liked it so much that I bought another for my coat rack area, a dark corner by the front door. I wish they had a percent indicator. I ran one down and used a plug-in watt meter to determine that a full charge requires 22 watt hours. If now I check the watt hours when I charge, I should have a good idea of how many weeks a charge will last. (I guess weekly energy use would be about the same, depending on day length.)

 

[6zfshdb]

Ain't that somethin'! I'd buy one, but then I'd probably louse up wiring in the shunt (if that's what it's called).

Yeah, it does require wiring the shunt. Although the face of the gauge is waterproof, the back is not and requires a protective housing. This can make handlebar mounting a problem. I use these plastic waterproof boxes and this motorcycle mirror mount to secure them to the bars::

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BGMTKKG9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09R23K2XK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

It takes up quite a bit of bar space though, so it may not be practical for every bike.

 

[spokewrench]

My percent reading is in tiny digits with such small spaces between segments that it's hard to read even with spectacles. These days, the only reason I turn it on is to get power for the speedometer and the brake light.

My bar is so crowded that I had to mount my bell on the stem below the cylinder for my boat horn. The boat horn works like a tire pump. You hit the cap, above the N in HONK, and it pumps air down through the transparent tube for a toot that can be heard a mile away. I couldn't do without my Bombay taxi horn, which sounds like a baritone sax, or my smaller brass horn, which sounds like a clarinet.

I'm thinking of adding a second bar above the first so I'll have room for a gauge like yours and other accessories. I wonder if that's how the Cross of Lorraine was invented. A nobleman might need a second handlebar to hang accessories. Noblesse oblige!

 

[harryS]

Yes I am riding with a BBS02 with an 20aH battery. I am extremely happy with it. I do ride with minimal assist as you suggested,……….. mostly PAS1. Does anyone have firm data on riding powered up but riding in PAS0? I’ve seen it written that it’s not suggested to ride without some assist but I don’t understand that logic if there is logic in that . The reason I mention that is because I can ride many of the flatter areas without assist and would like to conserve the battery for no reason other than, “just because”. In my first runout I was wanting to see just how much distance I could get in a full charge, I hit 165.

With a programming cable and your PC connected to a website (no need to install software). you can enable throttle in PAS0. My BBS02B came this way originally from Luna, and I used to ride it in PAS0 and feather in throttle on hills, It was very easy on battery, if I maintained discipline, Trouble is, I had some accidents when walking the bike and I bumped the throttle. One time, the bike tossed itself a few feet like a discus. When I finally got a cable (they'e sold on amazon), I turned off the throttle.

However, if I took the time. I could set PAS1 assist to nothing, and still have throttle, Then I would shift the assist on the few levels down so PAS 2 equals PAS1, PAS3 equals PAS 2, etc

A 20AH battery, huh? 1000 watt-hours in theroy. Maybe 800-900 WH in actual use. I run some of my bikes on 150 WH, Barely 20 miles.

 

[spokewrench]

I used to ride it in PAS0 and feather in throttle on hills, It was very easy on battery, if I maintained discipline, Trouble is, I had some accidents when walking the bike and I bumped the throttle. One time, the bike tossed itself a few feet like a discus. When I finally got a cable (they'e sold on amazon), I turned off the throttle.

No PAS and throttle feathering as needed is how I ride, as you preferred. I no longer even have a PAS sensor.

I see your kit comes with a thumb throttle. Aventons come that way, and I hated it. For one thing, it's subject to bumping, as happened to you. For another, it's harder to feather precisely and to hold indefinitely. I switched to a Shimano-style thumb shifter so I could use a right-hand half twist throttle like what came on two Radpower bikes. I don't see how it could be bumped accidentally. Because three fingers stay wrapped around the fixed grip, it's easy to feather precisely and to maintain that setting.

 

[6zfshdb]

No PAS and throttle feathering as needed is how I ride, as you preferred. I no longer even have a PAS sensor.

I see your kit comes with a thumb throttle. Aventons come that way, and I hated it. For one thing, it's subject to bumping, as happened to you. For another, it's harder to feather precisely and to hold indefinitely. I switched to a Shimano-style thumb shifter so I could use a right-hand half twist throttle like what came on two Radpower bikes. I don't see how it could be bumped accidentally. Because three fingers stay wrapped around the fixed grip, it's easy to feather precisely and to maintain that setting.

FWIW, This device makes it easy to precisely hold a twist, or half twist throttle:

Amazon.com

 

[6zfshdb]

My percent reading is in tiny digits with such small spaces between segments that it's hard to read even with spectacles. These days, the only reason I turn it on is to get power for the speedometer and the brake light.

My bar is so crowded that I had to mount my bell on the stem below the cylinder for my boat horn. The boat horn works like a tire pump. You hit the cap, above the N in HONK, and it pumps air down through the transparent tube for a toot that can be heard a mile away. I couldn't do without my Bombay taxi horn, which sounds like a baritone sax, or my smaller brass horn, which sounds like a clarinet.

I'm thinking of adding a second bar above the first so I'll have room for a gauge like yours and other accessories. I wonder if that's how the Cross of Lorraine was invented. A nobleman might need a second handlebar to hang accessories. Noblesse oblige!

View attachment 189316View attachment 189317

I ran out of bar space even before mounting that gauge on my OEM bars. I used a bar extender for awhile, but eventually bit the bullet and sprang for Jones H bars:

Store - H-Bars - Jones Bikes

jonesbikes.com

Now, I'm trying to find room for a coffee maker.

 

[spokewrench]

View attachment 189330 View attachment 189331

Now, I'm trying to find room for a coffee maker.

Great, but where's your gauge? I'd want to be sure the hand angle suited me before buying one. On classic English touring/utility bikes, hand grips pointed almost straight aft, and I guess that suited everyone.

 

[6zfshdb]

Great, but where's your gauge? I'd want to be sure the hand angle suited me before buying one. On classic English touring/utility bikes, hand grips pointed almost straight aft, and I guess that suited everyone.

The gauge fits very nicely between the Jones H cross bars. I even added a second analog gauge as well:

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

The gauge fits very nicely between the Jones H cross bars. I even added a second analog gauge as well:

View attachment 189332 View attachment 189333

Totally get the appeal of this added instrumentation for a retired electrical engineer who does long, multi-battery rides in remote places. Question is, does it also guide your day-to-day riding in a practical way?

 

[6zfshdb]

I'll admit, it's probably overkill for casual riding and best suited for long haul trips.

For local, casual, short distance riding, I use one of the other bikes. No sense in wasting bar space for a gauge that would only be marginally useful.

 

[spokewrench]

FWIW, This device makes it easy to precisely hold a twist, or half twist throttle:

I like a half twist because with my thumb and forefinger around the throttle and three fingers around the grip, it's easy to hold the throttle steady.

My three motorcycles had full twist throttles, as I suppose they all do. The second was an old BMW with a thumb screw to jam the throttle for cruise control. I didn't like the idea and never needed it. The third was a 1970 BMW, supposed to be so much better engineered. Right.

As on the older model, the throttle grip had a 30mm diameter, but the carburetor springs were much stiffer. You had to turn the throttle harder, and that entailed gripping it more tightly. It had the same set-screw cruise control.

No way! I wrapped cord around the grip with a half hitch on each turn, as on Navy ships. Then I worked RTV into the cotton. The greater diameter meant I needed less force for the same torque. It also meant more precise throttle control. Who needed cruise control? The greater area meant less pressure against my palm.

 

[6zfshdb]

In my younger years, I used a full twist throttle on my motorcycles without any issues. Now, with my e-bikes, my hand cramps up trying to hold the twist steady for any length of time. Maybe an age thing I guess.

I used that throttle clamp for a couple of years before going to an electronic cruise control.

 

[spokewrench]

In my younger years, I used a full twist throttle on my motorcycles without any issues. Now, with my e-bikes, my hand cramps up trying to hold the twist steady for any length of time. Maybe an age thing I guess.

Do you get cramps with half twist throttles? Mine is 34mm on the outboard side to match the grip and 40mm on the inboard side, which means my thumb and forefinger don't have to grip it tightly.

I don't think I've had a hand cramp in the last year, but I used to get them, typically after coming in from extended use of my hands in yard work. A pan of hot water could help, but sometimes cramping came back. Taking a walk outside could fix it. So could aspirin.

Maybe it was something I ate. The kidneys remove toxins that can get into the blood from what was eaten, like oxalates in spinach. Circulation in extremities varies. If hand circulation slowed when I came in tired and sat down, maybe something could accumulate enough to make some hand muscles tighten. I believe keeping a muscle under tension, as in holding a throttle open, can reduce circulation to the muscle. Hand circulation may be reduced to conserve body heat. Putting a hand in hot water was a way to increase circulation.

 

[6zfshdb]

Do you get cramps with half twist throttles? Mine is 34mm on the outboard side to match the grip and 40mm on the inboard side, which means my thumb and forefinger don't have to grip it tightly.

I don't think I've had a hand cramp in the last year, but I used to get them, typically after coming in from extended use of my hands in yard work. A pan of hot water could help, but sometimes cramping came back. Taking a walk outside could fix it. So could aspirin.

Maybe it was something I ate. The kidneys remove toxins that can get into the blood from what was eaten, like oxalates in spinach. Circulation in extremities varies. If hand circulation slowed when I came in tired and sat down, maybe something could accumulate enough to make some hand muscles tighten. I believe keeping a muscle under tension, as in holding a throttle open, can reduce circulation to the muscle. Hand circulation may be reduced to conserve body heat. Putting a hand in hot water was a way to increase circulation.

Yeah, all my bikes have half twist throttles. The cramping is probably due to my arthritis.

 

[spokewrench]

Yeah, all my bikes have half twist throttles. The cramping is probably due to my arthritis.

For several years I thought I had arthritis in my right wrist, but it came and went. Some days I'd have to use tools strictly left-handed. If I got down on the ground or floor, I'd have to get up without my right hand.

One day when I stepped out the back door, I could see that the concrete steps were wet, but I didn't see that it was wet ice. There was no railing and my feet flew from under me. A fall like that could be fatal. I got my right right hand behind me, and my palm took the brunt of the fall. I wasn't even bruised. My wrist bones must have been in very good shape because it didn't hurt at all.

It seemed I was had a come-and-go inflammation and not a deterioration. Eventually it occurred to me that at my computer I'd spend a lot of time with my right hand on the mouse, ready to make a click. All that time, the right side of my wrist joint, where the trouble was, would be pressed against the cold hard desk. Wrapping the wrist with padding before sitting down helped, but it was a hassle and I'd forget. In 2019 I bought a desktop wrist pad and the problem went away.

Hand muscles must be mostly fast twitch. Fast-twitch fibers have little metabolism at rest. Hands are often cold because the body can greatly reduce blood flow to hands to save heat. If in addition my wrist was often resting against a cold, hard surface, it may not always have gotten enough blood for tissue maintenance.

 

[PCeBiker]

The best way I've found to estimate range is to keep track of the wattage used as you ride.

That's the one I bought, but I screwed up and bought the 500 amp version.
The shunt is HUGE and weighs a Fricken Ton.

Then I got half way through studying the owners manual and decided to figure it out later.
That was a year and a half ago.

,.. Question is, does it also guide your day-to-day riding in a practical way?

Not in the box sitting on the shelf it doesn't

I use a gauge which can be programmed,..

That's the part I didn't like.
I didn't even get through figuring out how to operate it and I know I'd forget anyway, so I'd have to carry the owners manual with me.

I didn't like how I'd have to reprogram it whenever I swapped my batteries, because I have a 19ah, 21ah, and 25ah battery.

It only shows one parameter at a time, and I don't like how it appears to be saying 1000%.
The symbols are too small, so it's hard to tell if I'm looking at volts, amps, or ah, especially with an invisible decimal point.
And I don't like the green background.


So,..
I bought this one instead,..

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPWScin

This time, they screwed up and sent me a blue one with a 100 amp shunt.
I could have complained, but I just bought a 50 amp shunt for another $8.


So far, I'm REALLY Happy with it !!
It's Stupid Simple to operate.
It's only got One button with dual functions.

Press the button once and it turns on the Backlight.
Press it 8 times quickly, and it resets the Energy meter to zero and it starts counting up, unlike the other meter that counts down from full charge, so you have to program it to tell it what full charge is.

It works just like the trip meter on your car, push the button and it starts counting up from zero.
The only thing that you have to remember is to push the button, and why you pushed the button.
You can ignore it and it just keeps counting away until you decide to use it, so just zero the meter and start counting.
It's got a memory so when your ebike battery is removed, it saves your settings.
There's a few other settings that you can adjust, but you only need to do that once. (like setting the battery voltage)

I used to reset my trip meter whenever I filled up my car to keep track of my MPG, but "did it also guide my day-to-day riding in a practical way?"

Not if I forgot if I filled the tank, or just put ten bucks in?
And was it premium or regular?



I just need to install the damn thing.
I've already had it for two months.

 

[PCeBiker]

My percent reading is in tiny digits with such small spaces between segments that it's hard to read even with spectacles.

Great, but where's your gauge?

If you're only using the gauge to check the capacity of your battery, you don't need to see the display, so you can put the gauge anywhere.

Just reset the gauge before your ride then check the gauge after your ride, or when the battery shuts down, for a full count of your battery's capacity.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

so I'd have to carry the owners manual with me.

The nice part is that manuals are easy to carry now. I usually search the make and model of the device. Then add “.pdf” and the manual usually shows up. I select the proper pdf manual and “open with iBooks”. My phone saves that manual to my books and I now have it always. I’m sure Android is much similar.

I have manuals of kitchen appliances, my ebike, various hacking guides, and a big ass park tool mechanics guide as well as other magazines and such. All on my phone.

 

[PCeBiker]

. My phone saves that manual to my books and I now have it always. I’m sure Android is much similar.

Yeah I did all that, but it was a PITA.

I couldn't see my phone screen worth a crap outside, and the owners manual was in Chinesium that made no damn sense anyway.